adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Sept 11, 2016 18:31:54 GMT
|
Been doing a little more on the 7, started in the flat with giving the IC support bracket a bit of a spruce up So thats all ready to go back in once I've finished the work on top of the engine. Speaking of which, I managed to break the PCV valve while renewing vacuum lines.. Thankfully I was able to get a good second hand replacement from a breaker on ebay So thats now gone in along with the new silicone lines. A little confused as to how it should be plumbed in though as when I took it out it had one port not being used.. The FSM suggests there should be two takeoffs from the oil filler neck but theres only one which currently goes to the charcoal canister not the PCV valve :/ some investigation to be done there Good news though as the vacuum line replacement is now almost all complete, just got a few which route onto the upper intake manifold which I need to make sure I get in the right places. I also need to choose a new place to take a boost reference for the MAP and boost sensors as these initially came off the ACV. Other good news is that I managed to track down a fuel pump gasket (from Japan!) so that I can go ahead and fit the uprated one now On a fuel theme I've been struggling to separate the fuel hose from the fuel filter so I think I might just buy some new line and replace it anyway But I have made progress in that the new higher flow secondary injectors are installed! Comparison shot Was fairly straightforward (although I did cut my arm nicely as the banjo bolt on the upper fuel rail came undone rather violently...) I did have to cut off the old injector plugs from the wiring as they used oval shaped plugs rather than the oblong ones on the new injectors, but it was pretty easy to crimp new ones on, I'll tidy up the wiring with a bit of electrical tape then I think the intake manifold can start going back together Its getting there!
|
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,251
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Sept 11, 2016 20:13:25 GMT
|
Good to see this progress . This is coming along well. However, depending on the kind of crimps you have used I'd solder the wires personally . I've had the typical style of crimps always give me issues at some point in time!
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Sept 11, 2016 21:25:48 GMT
|
Good to see this progress . This is coming along well. However, depending on the kind of crimps you have used I'd solder the wires personally . I've had the typical style of crimps always give me issues at some point in time! Aha I know what you mean but the ratchet crimper I've been using lately has been pretty reliable and I don't go easy on the crimps! wasn't sure about solder in the hot engine bay environment but the main reason is one of practicality as I don't have any mains power to hand in the car park haha I'm pretty confident the crimps should be fine Is there a date set for the Dyno day yet? I just know October will creep up on me
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 11, 2016 21:28:18 GMT by adam73bgt
|
|
Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,303
Club RR Member Number: 160
|
1989 Mazda RX-7 Vert - Sold! 2/4Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
|
Sept 11, 2016 22:25:13 GMT
|
Properly, and I mean, properly crimped (with a double jaw ratchet tool, not those flimsy things you get in The Range) are far more secure than solder as a solder joint has no support relief on the core at what is essentially a solid joint. That's what the extra plastic bit of the crimp terminals are for when done properly, they support the wire. Soldering however looks a lot neater. But, we've had this topic brought up loads before.
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,251
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Sept 12, 2016 17:08:39 GMT
|
Properly, and I mean, properly crimped (with a double jaw ratchet tool, not those flimsy things you get in The Range) are far more secure than solder as a solder joint has no support relief on the core at what is essentially a solid joint. That's what the extra plastic bit of the crimp terminals are for when done properly, they support the wire. Soldering however looks a lot neater. But, we've had this topic brought up loads before. Agreed on that to an extent and that is a valid point about the support:). On a Mondeo LPG system, and the RST however I was forever chasing electrical gremlins due to those horrific Halfords style connectors, which were crimped to Kingdom Come, and the Stag ; most of them had oxidised within the connector, thus despite being tight, the connectivity was poor. Electrics dying on the motorway anyone? On the Mondeo V6, we never had a soldered joint failing, and that was with 80k more on the car from when when it was done. For the previous 60k I think we were constantly chasing a butchered LPG loom ; We should have renewed the lot, but you live and learn . Indeed, I also have one of those ratchet ones, and now and again I have used them with mixed results. One of them was fine on a Mondeo of ours for an earth wire inside mind you. I admit getting some half decent crimps like Tyco with the matching crimps does make a big difference, and then using something like epoxy to seal the join.
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 12, 2016 17:09:49 GMT by ChasR
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Sept 17, 2016 18:13:09 GMT
|
Another update as more progress has been made A while back I'd started making blanking plates for the ACV and split air pipe from ally. Armed with a hacksaw and a couple of files I finished off this job yesterday. I would have used my dremel but it was pretty slow going and very noisy so resorted to the old school method Gave them a quick key, then painted with etch primer then satin black as I had half a can left from some other job I guessed a bit wrong on the hole size but after some adjustment with a round file, I got the split air pipe blanking plate in place Then with a bit more file work on the ACV plate (I think the drill slipped a bit when I located one of the holes...) I got that in place too Another job off the list I did make some other progress under the bonnet, for instance the eagle eyed may have noticed that the lambda sensor has disappeared.. snipping off the wire and using a deep socket saw to that and gave me enough room to just about get the top two downpipe nuts off Buoyed by that success I thought I'd jack the car as high up as I could and remove the 3rd and final downpipe nut from underneath.. no such luck as its inaccessible from under the car... So somehow I'm going to have to get at it from within the engine bay Not looking forward to that job, but will mean the old exhaust is finally gone and the new one can go on Once thats on, I can start putting the engine bay back together
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Sept 18, 2016 16:27:37 GMT
|
Eugh continued work on the car today hoping that I'd be able to get at the remaining downpipe nut from above. This is basically the view I have You can see one of the upper two studs there but the third one isn't even visible, and to make matters worse, they all seem to have those metal tabs on them which I guess function as an anti rotation feature? But also mean I need to bend them out of the way before I can even think about getting a socket on the nut. Very restricted access and tools not fitting made me very fed up at this. So before I broke something, I turned my attentions to something else I've been trying a few ways to get the alternator nut off but its not happening, so I'm going to get an impact driver on it to shock it off, this meant getting a bit more access than was currently available First off with the intake duct And then after a bit of wrangling, I got the fan off and then the fan shroud I also had to take the hoses off so new hoses and new coolant just got added to the to do list.. Its only after taking off the fan shroud that I realised how much space the thing took up! I can see why people do electric fan conversions on these as it would make the bay a lot neater. The original fan and shroud should be going back on once I've sorted the alternator pulley, but an electric fan conversion is definitely something I'll consider for the future For now I need to have a re-think about this downpipe nut :/ Maybe I do need to access it from under the car after all?
|
|
|
|
luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
|
|
Sept 18, 2016 19:17:23 GMT
|
Put a pry bar down behind the pulley and lever it towards you whilst giving a socket bar a hard quick clout with a hammer. Might be enough to hold the pulley while the bond in the nut cracks off. Othwerise a windy gun might be your only option, they're usually a pig to get off. Remember a short, sharp shock breaks the seal better than prolonged torque
Manifold stud clearance is the perennial nightmare of rotaries, feel your pain
Little plastic tank will either be pressure or vaccuum for the rat's nest solenoid system, not entirely sure which OTTOMH. FDs have one of each but I'm not 100% on FCs
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 18, 2016 19:17:51 GMT by luckyseven
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Sept 18, 2016 19:46:10 GMT
|
Put a pry bar down behind the pulley and lever it towards you whilst giving a socket bar a hard quick clout with a hammer. Might be enough to hold the pulley while the bond in the nut cracks off. Othwerise a windy gun might be your only option, they're usually a pig to get off. Remember a short, sharp shock breaks the seal better than prolonged torque Manifold stud clearance is the perennial nightmare of rotaries, feel your pain Little plastic tank will either be pressure or vaccuum for the rat's nest solenoid system, not entirely sure which OTTOMH. FDs have one of each but I'm not 100% on FCs Aye I think I'm going to have to resort to an impact gun, I tried a few things to try and hold the pulley while I jolted it with a breaker bar but it wasn't having it Aha glad its not just me struggling with the downpipe studs then Thanks I did wonder, I think I've got all the vacuum system sorted now, I've redone all the hoses at least. The only thing that is confusing me is I have an open port on my PCV valve.. There was one hose missing from it when I took it off, and the Haynes and forums suggest I should have a port on the oil filler neck or similar to plumb it into like so But I've had a look and I'm damned if I can find a spare port on the oil filler Theres one there for the charcoal canister but its all I can see. If worst comes to worst I might just run a draft tube out the bottom of the engine bay but thats a bit old school and not the most environmentally friendly.. (he says as he takes his cats off )
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,251
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Sept 18, 2016 20:06:17 GMT
|
If you need me to bring up a rattle gun to give it a go let me know. Saturday I am free-ish and swing by Cov after work a couple of times a week .
|
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Sept 21, 2016 15:47:05 GMT
|
If you need me to bring up a rattle gun to give it a go let me know. Saturday I am free-ish and swing by Cov after work a couple of times a week . Thanks for the offer mate Went out and bought myself a Sealey cordless one in the end and it worked very satisfactorily No doubt it'll come in handy for other bits and bobs, would be good for the remaining downpipe nut if I had the access.. Edit: These photos have just reminded me that I should probably remove the remains of that broken air pump bolt for neatness sake...
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 21, 2016 15:48:14 GMT by adam73bgt
|
|
|
|
Sept 22, 2016 19:40:51 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Sept 22, 2016 21:38:54 GMT
|
Aha nice, any FC is so rare to see on the roads these days, let alone a convertible
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
|
Progress has been slow on the 7 but I think I've just about scraped together enough to warrant an update I'm due to move house by the end of the month so the pressure is on to get the car moving under its own steam to save me towing it! Last update saw me swapping out the alternator pulley, so I stuck a couple of belts on Yes I did tension them up later on! The remaining nut on the downpipe is still beating me at the moment so I decided to get a few other jobs done to get a bit of mojo back While fitting the belts I noticed that the heater coolant pipe going to the radiator was looking past its best, I've ordered some new rubber hose and set about refurbing the metal pipe Simple job of attacking it with sandpaper to get the rust and crud off, then etch prime and finish with black VHT. I'll refit it when the new rubber hose turns up Another job which isn't particularly crucial but was bugging me, was to do something about the state of the engine bay. With all the intake stuff out the way it seemed a good time to have a go with some cloths and soapy water Still not perfect but a big improvement! I've also noticed various plain metal brackets around the bay which are corroding etc. so once I've moved to the new house, I'll go round and take them off and paint them black to neaten everything up a bit I refitted the fan and shroud (its amazing how much space the shroud takes up in the bay!) along with some new silicone rad hoses Got another pig of a job out of the way which was changing the fuel filter, its hidden down by the passenger chassis rail so isn't all that much fun access wise, also had to cut the hose from the filter to the rail off as it would not budge. Thats the new filter in the cradle, the old one didn't look very old at all! Will order some new hose and get that plumbed up So some limited progress made, but the headline job is still defeating me although I think I have managed to bend back the locking tab on the remaining nut The total lack of access from the top to get a ratchet or spanner in is making me think that I need to tackle it from under the car again, so I'm going to try that again next In other good news though, I got a replacement voltmeter from AEM after returning mine under warranty. So that can go in soon as well. Expect to see the urgency of work on the Mazda increase over the next couple weeks as I do not want to have to tow it to the new house
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,251
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Oct 10, 2016 17:54:25 GMT
|
I am liking the progress! A clean engine bay makes such a difference eh? Good shout on the rad hoses in silicone. For some reason the last owner of my MX-5 changed all of the hoses to new rubber ones. Why he did this I do not know. They weren't genuine either, but you'll see why that bothered me. What was annoying is that quite a few of them were perishing within 4 years and very little mileage, around 3,000 to be exact! I've never seen a genuine hose do that, but I have seen alot of classic car rubber hoses do this! I suspect if I kept the car I would have changed the entire lot with either genuine Mazda hoses or one of the many silicone hose kits out there . The few original hoses on the car were still fine and in better condition than some of the replacements!
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Oct 10, 2016 19:14:45 GMT
|
I am liking the progress! A clean engine bay makes such a difference eh? Good shout on the rad hoses in silicone. For some reason the last owner of my MX-5 changed all of the hoses to new rubber ones. Why he did this I do not know. They weren't genuine either, but you'll see why that bothered me. What was annoying is that quite a few of them were perishing within 4 years and very little mileage, around 3,000 to be exact! I've never seen a genuine hose do that, but I have seen alot of classic car rubber hoses do this! I suspect if I kept the car I would have changed the entire lot with either genuine Mazda hoses or one of the many silicone hose kits out there . The few original hoses on the car were still fine and in better condition than some of the replacements! I almost feel the engine bay cleaning could become quite addictive... I won't spend too much time doing it at the moment, but the area around and below the oil filler needs a good clean as many years of messy oil changes have left it all a bit nasty! Yeah I'm hoping the silicone hoses last well, the bottom one needed a little modifying to fit but they feel pretty well made at least Reading the American RX7 forum seemed to throw up a lot of reports of issues with one of the heater hoses as it runs pretty much underneath the oil filter. Sloppy oil changes and oil on rubber hose don't mix it seems and the result is loss of coolant and possibly engine! Mazda seem to be the only place in the UK that do them so I may invest in new heater hoses in the future, but I've had mixed results with Mazda dealer parts so will look at all other options first!
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,251
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Oct 10, 2016 20:39:35 GMT
|
If the hose is a simple hose let me know . I know a man who makes them . If you brought him a former for the hose he could even make the shape of the hose for you . IME his quality is on a par with Samco but without the cost . When you say mixed results, are you referring to the parts themselves or the dealers? The latter are a pain, probably the least helpful bunch of dealers I have come across with the brand of cars I have owned.
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 10, 2016 20:40:45 GMT by ChasR
|
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2016 21:22:05 GMT
|
Would agree regarding Mazda dealers, although not sure that they're worse than the Vauxhall dealers I've experienced.
Love the progress on this, following it closely.
|
|
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Oct 10, 2016 22:35:00 GMT
|
ChasR with the dealers, made me wait a long time for a turbo gasket only for it to be the wrong one.. then another time definitely didn't trust the part numbers I'd quoted them even though I'd double checked them on the forums Maybe when I've got the car at the new house I'll get the hoses off and see if some silicone versions can be made oli8925 cheers hoping to make more progress soon, I miss driving it!
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Oct 15, 2016 17:51:22 GMT
|
Took a big step towards getting the 7 sorted today but first off, some fuel and coolant hose arrived which got cut to length to replace the old knackered ones After that it was time to take advantage of the mild weather today, car assumed the position.. And I got to work trying to tackle that blasted last remaining downpipe nut. After a bit of faffing around, I decided to have another go at removing the pipe connected to the downpipe to give me a little extra room First mini win of the day (the 3in1 penetrating fluid seems to be very effective) Then took a lot of effort on my back under the car trying to fold back the locking tabs on the remaining nut. With the pipe out of the way I was able to use a combination of flat screwdrivers and an exhaust hanger remover hook to bend them out of the way The only tool that seemed to fit was a 14mm ratchet spanner, but I couldn't get enough torque on it. So I ended up cobbling this together using a 30mm socket and a mini breaker bar over the open end of the spanner to give a bit more leverage. Some more swearing later and... IT'S OFFFFF!!!!!!! Horrible, ugly, rusty, heavy, old piece of curse word Pre-cat downpipe is no more. Also took off the turbo heatshield as it was knackered, will see how it goes without for the time being. These are the locking tabs that were the cause of much frustration They also found themselves in the bin So tomorrow, I shall pop the new downpipe in place and see where I need to mark the spot for the wideband sensor bung so it can be drilled and welded in Other jobs are to change the fuel pump, and I need to remove the ECU so I can do the chip swap.. Moving house at the end of the month and I'm not planning on trailering the 7 just yet!
|
|
|
|
|