|
|
|
|
|
Grabbed a couple more hours yesterday and made a big psychological step forwards... This is how the carpets looked after the autoglym dye and rattle can paint...   After a couple of coats of spraying the liquid dye on, still a bit patchy in places but looks a lot worse in bright daylight and seems to be better after it had dried...   Biggest tip is to wear gloves!  Before and after...  Pretty much naked bus with the amps fitted...  Rear heater channels fitted ...  Rear heater vents and under-carpet foam fitted (Foam was cut where the power cable runs behind the driver seat and where the back end of the 6 channel is) ...  And the carpet back in! (Only alteration was a cut along back of the rear amp - I'll tidy it up at another point but the full length amp housing will extend past that line any way) ...  View from the passenger side sliding door ...  View from looking back from the driver's seat...  Next steps for the back is to refit the trims for the seat runners and the air vents then the seats can go back in. Next steps for the front is to run the driver side door speaker cables and refit the dashboard parts before the carpet can go back in. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2016 12:33:00 GMT
|
The last of the cables are being routed down the centre of the bus. The door speaker cables are not threaded through into the doors yet, just relevant lengths in place ready.   |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2016 13:08:38 GMT
|
Speaker cables threaded along the rail and out through the gap between the rail and first cross brace that the CVEN 6 channel amp is mounted on. I'll trim them shorter before connecting them up to the relevant terminals...  |
| |
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
Nov 23, 2016 20:26:43 GMT
|
|
This is an impressively tidy installation, it's a joy to read about.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2016 21:17:25 GMT
|
This is an impressively tidy installation, it's a joy to read about. Thanks  Hopefully my woodwork will be equally tidy |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2016 13:00:45 GMT
|
Change of my plan for the earth point, I've got a longer M10x1.25 bolt and will connect both amp earths directly to it using compression terminals rather than through the distribution block. Copper washers to space out where the terminal isn't flat.  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2016 13:22:35 GMT
|
|
That's a better idea imo. I never got on using distribution blocks.
If you've lost the middle seat/cubby thing, did you give any thought to building a vertical amp rack there and re-create the table on the top?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2016 13:55:06 GMT
|
That's a better idea imo. I never got on using distribution blocks. If you've lost the middle seat/cubby thing, did you give any thought to building a vertical amp rack there and re-create the table on the top? It's not possible unfortunately, the middle row seats swivel to face the back and need 5" of clearance from the floor so that they can turn so the highest I can go with the amp rack is 5" to retain that functionality. The middle seat used to slide forward and back to move out of the way so the outer ones could swivel around and I didn't want to try replicating that with cables attached - trying to get them to coil and uncoil could have been a hassle! Edited to add: I do plan to get a 3" thick piece of foam cut and trimmed to match the seats that can sit down the middle and be moved out the way when the seats are swivelled so could fit cup holders etc in there and maybe a table top too. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2016 16:00:03 GMT
|
That's a better idea imo. I never got on using distribution blocks. If you've lost the middle seat/cubby thing, did you give any thought to building a vertical amp rack there and re-create the table on the top? It's not possible unfortunately, the middle row seats swivel to face the back and need 5" of clearance from the floor so that they can turn so the highest I can go with the amp rack is 5" to retain that functionality. The middle seat used to slide forward and back to move out of the way so the outer ones could swivel around and I didn't want to try replicating that with cables attached - trying to get them to coil and uncoil could have been a hassle! Edited to add: I do plan to get a 3" thick piece of foam cut and trimmed to match the seats that can sit down the middle and be moved out the way when the seats are swivelled so could fit cup holders etc in there and maybe a table top too. Ah, forgot about the swivel seats. I wouldn't fancy trying to make the amp rack move either, especially with 0 gauge cable. If you're running a Pi, check out attract mode. It's what I'm running in mine to the original screens     |
| |
Last Edit: Nov 25, 2016 16:04:53 GMT by Soopahfly
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2016 20:56:41 GMT
|
It's not possible unfortunately, the middle row seats swivel to face the back and need 5" of clearance from the floor so that they can turn so the highest I can go with the amp rack is 5" to retain that functionality. The middle seat used to slide forward and back to move out of the way so the outer ones could swivel around and I didn't want to try replicating that with cables attached - trying to get them to coil and uncoil could have been a hassle! Edited to add: I do plan to get a 3" thick piece of foam cut and trimmed to match the seats that can sit down the middle and be moved out the way when the seats are swivelled so could fit cup holders etc in there and maybe a table top too. Ah, forgot about the swivel seats. I wouldn't fancy trying to make the amp rack move either, especially with 0 gauge cable. If you're running a Pi, check out attract mode. It's what I'm running in mine to the original screens Ooh I like the look of that - a fancier looking than emulation station but now I've got that working I think I'll just stick with that Is your pi connected to the red / white / yellow component sockets on the rear quarter panel? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2016 10:56:03 GMT
|
fr€$h&m1nt¥ Yeah, just the standard RCA connectors in the rear. You can get a 128gb pre-configured image for the Attract Mode (with games etc) just needs a bit of config for the controllers.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ohh cool. Is it just me or did others think the auto shifter was a joystick before scrolling down more?
|
| |
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
|
|
|
Not just you. Those MODE buttons are in the right place to be painted yellow and red for the full arcade experience.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2016 12:31:19 GMT
|
A little snippet of progress again today... Speaker cable for sub was stripped and connected at the amp end...  ... and the 0 gauge for distribution block was cut to the right length but I didn't have the right size Allen driver with me to connect it up...  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2016 22:34:55 GMT
|
Bit more done... I cut down the bottom half of the L bracket that the fused distribution block is fixed down with because I thought it was a bit too close to the earth point ...  4AWG power cable from fused distribution block to CVENCH6 connected up...  (0AWG power cable into the fused distribution block connected up too but forgot to get a photo) Back to the earth point again, two compression terminals through a longer than standard bolt with copper washers to space out where the connector isn't flat ...  0AWG ground cable cut to length for connecting BASS1 amplifier to earth point ...  And after several attempts of getting enough strands trimmed back and twisted around so the thread would bite I got the terminal on nice and tight...  (I also got the terminal fitted to the 4AWG ground cable for the CVENCH6 amplifier but forgot to get a photo, will get one tomorrow) |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2016 13:47:40 GMT
|
0AWG & 4AWG Earth cables / compression terminals / M10 x 1.25 x 50mm bolt / 5 copper washers ...  Earth point bolted in place and cables connected to amps ...  Close up of earth point - a few bits of shrapnel need vacuuming up ...  Driver side tweeter cable stripped (the only speaker cable I pre-labelled so I need to connect a lamp to the other end of the other leads so I can identify them before connecting them up) ...  Driver side tweeter cable connected to amp ...  Remote lead connected to BASS1 amp (I need to run a patch lead to the CVENCH6 amp remote connector) ...  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Speaker lead testing kit  Hook battery pack up to speaker end (every little helps)  Hold light strip on amp end of a cable  Connect the lead that lights the strip up to the amp (Just the driver side 6M and 10W to determine and connect up now)  Label the cable at the speaker end  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Last of the speaker cables connected up...  View from above ...  Passenger side rail trims clipped back in place...  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Excellent job you are doing with this install, looking forward to more updates. I have used that flat vibe speaker cable before and it's very easy to route, however I was terminating into crimp connections for my speakers which is a bit of a pain as you have to strip it fairly long and use heatshrink over the crimp as it was impossible to get the installation into the crimp, without chopping with side off into a sort of wedge shape. Looks a lot better into a screw terminal however.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Excellent job you are doing with this install, looking forward to more updates. I have used that flat vibe speaker cable before and it's very easy to route, however I was terminating into crimp connections for my speakers which is a bit of a pain as you have to strip it fairly long and use heatshrink over the crimp as it was impossible to get the installation into the crimp, without chopping with side off into a sort of wedge shape. Looks a lot better into a screw terminal however. Cheers and thanks for the tip on the crimped connectors when it comes to doing the speakers. I hadn't thought of that but makes sense now you've said it. |
| |
|
|
|
|
