stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,876
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Aug 30, 2021 23:28:36 GMT
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That oil drain fitting is far too posh. Not a drop of chemical metal in sight. Let’s revisit this after I have started it up…. P  Should be fine. I keep thinking of starting a "Stevie Wonder fits a oil drain" page on social media from the examples I see at work but never get round to it. |
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A guy needs to vote option 2 I'll do the right thing and pretend I didn't see that.... P. i figured with them snazzy dijickles on the sparkurlators she was a going to town rig, guy might need to TTTTssssss TTSSSS tttsssssssstt on her a little. |
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Sept 2, 2021 22:20:07 GMT
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In the final push to get Woody's engine fired up, even if it is just for 30 seconds or so, today was the day I had set aside to fit the fuel pump and test the fuel lines for leaks ahead of 'turning the key' tomorrow. First things first, let's set up a beauty shot.  What we have here Ladies and Gentlemen is a Chevy Blazer fuel...basket?... and a Walbro 450 fuel pump, good enough for more than my planned 500whp. First challenge.  Bumhats. Not the slot A in tab B assembly I was hoping for... Never mind, I have a set of those de pinning keys I purchased on a whim several years ago so this should be an easy job, right? Wrong. Lets just say that I eventually got the pins out but it was in no way thanks to the miracle of the de pinning keys... Grrrr. Anyway, eventually ended up with...  Which I 'skilfully' (ahem) attached to the plug wiring that came with the pump. Aaaannnnnnndddd this is where it all went a bit Pete Tong.  See the blue clip that I have carefully circled in red. Yes that one on the left. Well, its job is to hold the wires in place to stop them falling out - in conjunction with the hateful pins already mentioned. Well, as I went to re insert it into the plug it decided it had had enough of my nonsense and shot off like one of Elon's rockets at a trajectory across the garage, never to be seen again. I spent 2 hours searching for it until I was at thermo nuclear levels of annoyance - for those that know me I don't get annoyed so lets just say the best thing I could do was to close the garage doors and retreat to watch some trash TV. Question for those of you have more experience than me on such things, can I 'Just" fill the connector up with silicon to hold the wires in place instead of the clip? Will it be affected by the fuel? If anybody has any ideas or advice I would appreciate it. As my old boss used to tell me 'Hope is not a Strategy' but I am hoping I will go out there again tomorrow and find the hateful blue clip sitting on the bench - or one of you bright sparks comes up with a solution. So, until tomorrow. Onwards! P. |
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Last Edit: Sept 2, 2021 22:22:09 GMT by Paul Y
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fatlad
Part of things
Posts: 65
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Personally I wouldn't use a connector there at all, it looks as though there is one on the closing plate for the sender unit so just repin the pump into that one? Less joints to go wrong?!
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,989 
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Do NOT use silicone in the fuel tank on that connector  It will end in tears  As above, I'd be inclined to make new wires from the pump itself to the sender unit connector. But make sure that all the stuff used is suitable for being g fully immersed in petrol  |
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spacekadett
Part of things
F*cking take that Hans Brrix!!
Posts: 820
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Silicone and fuel don’t mix, which I found out the hard way after using some the gasket on the top of the race cars tank. Ended up pulling it all back out and flushing the fuel system out after finding blue worms in the float bowls 😂. Fingers crossed when you next go in the garage it’ll just be lying in the middle of the floor, certainly that’s what usually happens to me!
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Mechanic's rule #1... If the car works, anything left on the floor after you finished wasn't needed in the first place  |
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This is fate telling you to tidy your garage….. (even if it’s quite tidy anyway) as it means you will at least be doing something vaguely productive while searching for the escaped part…..
It’s taken me 30+ years to learn this trick but it seems quite effective
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Sept 3, 2021 20:10:26 GMT
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Apparently hope is a strategy.  Upon opening the garage door and wondering over to my 'clean' workbench I decided to have a further tidy up (stop smirking vitesseefi) and TA DAAA! the missing blue clip appeared, as if by magic sitting on top of my band saw.... Grrrr.... fatlad, hear you on reducing the amount of connectors but, if I find myself stranded at the side of the road with a failed pump, it is going to be easier to unplug and replug rather than have to un pin and re pin. Notice the multimeter above, I did do all sorts of things that I really don't understand but it proved the wiring is good. Phew. NEXT! Time to fit the pump in the carrier, think I might need to do a little clearancing.  Thats better.  Aaannnnddd...  Assembled. Not got a picture but measured to the bottom of the tank and to the bottom of the sock and there is about a 1/4 clearance. Perfect. Last part of the fuel system is the regulator, feed and return lines.  Will end up using bulkhead fittings through the inner wing once everything is back together but for the moment this will do to test and get the engine started. Talking of which... Oil filters. This may come across as a mini rant but bear with me. For those keeping score I changed the sump over to a CTS-V from the truck one originally fitted, which meant I had to get a metric oil filter. Call the usual suspects to see if they have a Wix filter in stock, my preferred brand, and yes they do. Huzzah! That will be £16.40. Plus VAT. Plus shipping. AT £9.20!!!!! Now I know we all need to make a profit to live on but £30.72 for an oil filter? Ended up getting a K&N one directly from K&N for £13 delivered.  Good enough for Nascar so good enough for me. Next! Unlike the good old small block the oil pump can not be spun over with a drill on the LS as it is driven from the crank. Under normal circumstances I would just crank it over until the oil pressure came up and then connect the coils and...VROOM... but Woody's new heart has been without oil for the past 6 years so decided to whip together a pre lube tool, just in case....  Heath Robinson would be proud... So what is this wonderful contraction then? A weed sprayer from Screwfix, a few connectors and a bit of hose plus an AN fitting and some hose clamps. Oh yes. and a compressor.   No it is not pretty, Yes it worked.   In theory all that's left to do is to put some super unleaded in the tank, run the pump to make sure there are no leaks. Plug in the harness, connect the computer. Add a battery and...turn the key  Oh, and fit the exhaust manifold. Start crossing your fingers now, tomorrow is going to be epic. Only time will tell if it is glorious success or epic fail.... Until tomorrow. Onwards! P. |
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Last Edit: Sept 3, 2021 20:18:36 GMT by Paul Y
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,876
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Sept 3, 2021 20:32:55 GMT
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It's always worth pre oiling them, the oil pump looks like something off a toy car.
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Sept 3, 2021 20:33:58 GMT
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I can't believe that there are electrical connecters in the fuel tank? I can understand wires directly to the pump through the sender unit but not connecters?
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Todos con Lorca
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Heath Robinson, Wallace and Grommit. makes no difference pre lube the engine,spot on.
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misteralz
Posted a lot
I may drive a Volkswagen, but I'm scene tax exempt!
Posts: 2,369
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I do brake bleeding with one of those, too. Brilliant things.
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……………………….EXCITED
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2021 8:14:35 GMT by grizz
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I’s not smirking….. I’m very pleased you’ve recaptured the escapee. I swear they pop off to a parallel universe for a bit of R & R (and to wind us up obviously).
Looking forward to the victorious “fire-up” video 🙂
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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frodo
Part of things
Posts: 104
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Sept 4, 2021 16:04:22 GMT
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Great project - I’m actually putting a Gen 4 5.3 (ally block) LS in my Scimitar so am enjoying reading! Mine is also becoming a race car hence I’ve dry-sumped it - oil flow definitely worth considering if you do plan on track work. I’d recommend at least a baffled sump and Accusump; they’re known for rods knocking as the oil hits the cam before crank, and therefore under G the crank gets starved of oil first.
As a thought and a different idea to a T56 which are quite dear, have you considered an adaptor plate and either a 350Z or BMW gearbox? I’m using a PMC Motorsport adaptor plate and a GS5-39DZ gearbox from a BMW E46 330d. Boxes are about £200ish, adaptor plate depends on the clutch but around £1000.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Sept 4, 2021 17:43:36 GMT
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Great project - I’m actually putting a Gen 4 5.3 (ally block) LS in my Scimitar so am enjoying reading! Mine is also becoming a race car hence I’ve dry-sumped it - oil flow definitely worth considering if you do plan on track work. I’d recommend at least a baffled sump and Accusump; they’re known for rods knocking as the oil hits the cam before crank, and therefore under G the crank gets starved of oil first. As a thought and a different idea to a T56 which are quite dear, have you considered an adaptor plate and either a 350Z or BMW gearbox? I’m using a PMC Motorsport adaptor plate and a GS5-39DZ gearbox from a BMW E46 330d. Boxes are about £200ish, adaptor plate depends on the clutch but around £1000. Did look at the CD009 and the ZF box's but decided against them as the ratios were a bit of a compromise, plus the cheapest CD009 I could find was £700+ which meant that with the adapter I was not that far off a T56. In the Scimitar would imagine you will be all good but as Woody weighs in at a hefty 4000 I also doubt the longevity of either box as, has been documented, I am a bit of a hooligan... Anyway. On to todays adventure. Stay tuned, coming up right after this commercial break.... P. |
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Sept 4, 2021 18:01:43 GMT
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Great project - I’m actually putting a Gen 4 5.3 (ally block) LS in my Scimitar so am enjoying reading! Mine is also becoming a race car hence I’ve dry-sumped it - oil flow definitely worth considering if you do plan on track work. I’d recommend at least a baffled sump and Accusump; they’re known for rods knocking as the oil hits the cam before crank, and therefore under G the crank gets starved of oil first. As a thought and a different idea to a T56 which are quite dear, have you considered an adaptor plate and either a 350Z or BMW gearbox? I’m using a PMC Motorsport adaptor plate and a GS5-39DZ gearbox from a BMW E46 330d. Boxes are about £200ish, adaptor plate depends on the clutch but around £1000. Did look at the CD009 and the ZF box's but decided against them as the ratios were a bit of a compromise, plus the cheapest CD009 I could find was £700+ which meant that with the adapter I was not that far off a T56. In the Scimitar would imagine you will be all good but as Woody weighs in at a hefty 4000 I also doubt the longevity of either box as, has been documented, I am a bit of a hooligan... Anyway. On to todays adventure. Stay tuned, coming up right after this commercial break.... P.
NEVER WOULD HAVE THOUGHT THAT. |
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Sept 4, 2021 18:12:29 GMT
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I didn't get as much time in the garage as I wanted today as #4 child is off to Uni next week which meant spending money on...things... you know fairy lights, a wall covering, pink ferns. The important stuff. Once that task was completed and I had put her and #1 son on the train to go to London to see #2 son -its his birthday on Tuesday - I finally had 2 hours in the garage before having a date night with the wonderful Lady P, I am currently writing this whilst she is getting ready so an easy hour or so left.... Plan today was. 1. Wire up the engine and make sure that everything worked 2. Make sure it cranked over 3. Test the fuel lines. 4. Vroom Vroom. This is what I started with.  Long time listeners will know that I HATE WIRING so after 30 minutes spreading everything out across the drive to make sure I had a little idea of what went where I proceeded to plug everything in. Actually quite easy once you get your head around it.  The wiring harness is definitely not a thing of beauty. Once that was all in place I bolted the various electric bits to a board just to stop it all getting caught up in the flex plate and exhausts.  Get me. I even made a switch to turn the ECU...  Fact Tree.... I had previously bought myself a Lone Wolf 3000 to make the cranking easier. Purchased from my local motor factor the guy serving me said it had been there since he had started working there, I would guess that would be at least 20 years old then....  There will now be a lack of pictures as I spent the next 90 minutes trying to work out why, when I switched this ON...  ...Nothing happened. (In case anybody is using this as reference the wire connected to this is the switched live. - you must be really desperate but you never know...) Tested across the fuse box, scratched my head and finally sat on the milk crate of contemplation to seek cosmic guidance. Which is when I noticed that the other side of the switch was not connected to power..... Mmmmm.... Anyway, quick connection made and now when you push the throttle pedal, this happens.  Great Success! Rapidly running out of time I threw 4 gallons of Shell finest super unleaded in the tank, connected the pump to a separate battery and it all wired into life. Rapidly followed by me pulling wires off the battery as I was showered by fuel from the regulator.  It is absolutely weeing it out of the join between the top and bottom. Quick internet search shows this is quite common so take it apart, clean it out and out it back together. Still made me jump! Good news is, in the few seconds that the pump was building pressure my pipes didn't leak. Tick another thing half of the list then Paul. Not much time left so hooked up the Lone Wolf 3000 to the starter as I wanted to get the engine to turn over so, tomorrow, I can fix he regulator, put the plugs in and see if it will go Vroom Vroom. But... no starter motor action. Tested the Lone Wolf 3000. That works. Have 13V to the starter. Ok But no spinny spinny. Does anybody know if I need the switched live to be connected to a..live? Seems a bit odd that it wouldn't turn over but hopefully it is something simple - if you know let me know. So, with a modicum of success I bid you goodnight as Lady P is standing behind me indicating that she requires a G & T before dinner. Onwards!! P. |
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2021 18:47:21 GMT by Paul Y
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Damn, the suspense is building!!!!
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Sept 5, 2021 19:04:52 GMT
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...to speed. Quick rewind then. When I left you yesterday this was spraying fuel everywhere.  Quick disassemble revealed numerous bits of swarf from the machining process were still in the body meaning that the diaphragm was not seating properly. Grrrr....   pork I see that you have the same regulator so might be worth a quick inspection before you put fuel through it. With that all safely buttoned up a quick test revealed that it was indeed fixed and we were ready to go. Well once I had worked out why it wouldn't turn over. This turned out to be my own stupidity as I had the Lone Wolf 3000 connected to earth rather than live, quick change around and we had the engine turning over, Very slowly. Even with the plugs out. Oh Bumhats. Images of me running the bearings dry had me re priming the engine with another 3 litres of oil. Lets try that again then shall we. Nope still turns over slowly. Now beginning to panic. Lets check the battery voltage then. 13.8 volts. Now really panicking. Wonder what the voltage is whilst cranking... 7.3 Volts. HUZZAH!!!!!! Quick swop over to another battery and we now wizz over at a very respectable rate. Ok, plugs in and this on stand by.  Lets prime the lines again and flick the switch This did make me do a little dance in the garage. Oil pressure was great, upto around 80lb with a little rev, No knocks. No rattles - even the lifters were quiet! Very very happy. I am never going to be a David Bailey but here is the second attempt. Yes I am wearing wellies. With shorts. Get over it. The hesitancy is because the pump is not running, the engine is running off the fuel in the rails and also the fuel pressure was around 20lb rather than 60lb but even so I will put that down as Great Success! That is where I ran out of time for today as my parents were coming over for lunch but did close the door feeling very pleased with myself. Even Lady P came out and congratulated me. Well I think that what she was saying as my ears were ringing from the awesomeness of the open exhausts... Next stage is going to be getting the firewall ready for paint, stripping the undersea from Woodys bottom and generally getting ready to put the cab back on the chassis. Aim is to have this next part of the deal done by middle October, so another 6 week sprint. I have a tree to collect at Christmas. Still waiting for my benefactor to show up with my T56 though.... With that I will wish you a very pleasant Sunday. Until the next time.... ONWARDS!!!! P. |
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Last Edit: Sept 5, 2021 19:08:16 GMT by Paul Y
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