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Feb 28, 2018 22:10:49 GMT
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As far as I have found Corsairs had three different types of braking systems fitted during the build time.
1. Single master cylinder single circuit 1500 & V4 1700 & 2000 No Servo Discs & Drums, UK
2. Single master cylinder single circuit V4 1700 & 2000 Servo Discs & Drums, UK
3. Single master cylinder Duel circuit V4 1700 & 2000 Servo Discs only, Export
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Feb 28, 2018 22:33:38 GMT
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No 3 is ok if a load sensetive/inertia valve is fitted in the brake line I believe.
Sorry to hijack your thread EDK83.
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Feb 28, 2018 22:37:47 GMT
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No 3 is ok if a load sensitive/inertia valve is fitted in the brake line I believe. Sorry to hijack your thread EDK83. Well I cannot do anything until Grumpy is finished with the car so plenty of time to decide. And as Mark says "Sorry to hijack your thread EDK83". Hope fully will all be useful info for you. |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862 
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No worries all helpful stuff.
Looking at modding the brake pedal or servo options.
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Start with balance bar being set up right - it may be alll it requires. Mod pedal ratio next & that ought to be enough.
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I have thought about fitting a servo the front circuit of the dual circuit m/cyl I have added to our Minor, all I can see it will do increase the effort on the front by the servo ratio, pretty much what you want with a drum disc set up on a light rear end anyway.
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Before I sort the brakes out I have the camber to sort out, the bottom arms are new mgf aftermarket. With the coilovers set quite low it's producing too much camber. I'm going to drill out the rivets and change the ball joints for rover 100 ones, possibly slot the wishbones for adjustableness. This is after raising the coilovers a bit, still a couple of degrees too much.  New ride height, doesn't look as badass but now I have more than 2" ground clearance!  I'm wanting to fit 280mm discs and there is no way they are going to fit under 14" wheels, gutted as I love the orange ones I bought but needs must. 15" to test fit, with 45 profile tyres they are actually not much more in diameter then my 14 with 50 profile.  |
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Still loving the carpet!  |
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are those vw wheels? the RAs from the mk2 golf are plentiful and take 280s with 54mm calipers just about
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Yes RA's these are et35 though and I normally see them around et30. I've test fitted them and needed to put a 5mm spacer on for the mgf calipers to clear when in position for 280mm discs.
Also had to put a 3mm spacer on the rear otherwise the wheel nuts hit the end of the thread on the studs before clamping the wheel!
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Last Edit: Mar 8, 2018 9:34:05 GMT by edk83
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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 My other problem now is the vw 280mm discs are slightly thicker so push the caliper and wheel out a few mm. I've found some really nice orange Alloys but they are 6.5j which means and extra 6mm over the current stick out! Not sure if I'd get away with that.   |
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Many years ago after fitting 280s and RAs on a mk2 16v I found that the outer pad couldn't be thicker than 14mm or the wheels would rub, too cheap for spacers I used the mk2 16v pads and rubbed them down with emory taped to a mirror  ended up with some weller steels that had huge caliper clearance |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Mar 19, 2018 10:14:18 GMT
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Pig of a job, isn't it? Just done the same on my OH's Freelander front lower arms. Ruddy rivets seemed to be made of some extra hard steel that made even brand new decent drill bits struggle.
I know you've got nyloc nuts on, but aren't the bolts supposed to be the other way up - so the heads are at the top? Some sort of belt & braces thing so if by some chance the nuts come off, the bolts can't drop out?
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Mar 19, 2018 10:27:20 GMT
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Haha yes there is a lot of steel to drill through, getting them spot on takes some effort. I've got an extra sharp 4mm that seemed to go through them ok, after that it's not too bad, still takes some time though.
Yes the bolts need to go in from the top, the ones that came with the r100 joints are only 8.8 so I'm going to change them for some high tensile. I just used these to whack through the arm and joint, it's packed full of sealant which made getting them in a fight. Not a bad idea though, once the camber is set I may seal them again.
If the camber still needs adjusting with these ball joints the plan is to drill the wishbone holes out a few mm and make some spreader plates to clamp it all together, see where it lands on these first though.
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Last Edit: Mar 19, 2018 10:29:51 GMT by edk83
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adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
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Mar 19, 2018 12:59:44 GMT
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Vw use a plate with 3 nuts welded to it which is a handy idea to steal (or even use/modify for the job) with the bolts dropping in from above
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rollingcoal
Part of things
we can engineer a way around that, maybe
Posts: 193
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you need to make yourself a B.O.M. tyre stick out gauge
maybe patent pending I don't know
time 3.47
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A55 Austin Cambridge 1961
Triumph Spartan 1965
mk1 Ford Escort 2 door 1968
Peugeot 406 diesel estate 1998
Citroen Xsara hatchback diesel 1999
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Mar 20, 2018 10:37:51 GMT
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Yeah, with 15" 6.5j mine would be somewhere between taking the curse word and illegal! So after fitting the Rover100 joints there is defiantly less camber, I still might make them adjustable though.  |
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village
Part of things
Always carries a toolbox. Because Volkswagen.......
Posts: 567
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Mar 20, 2018 13:52:58 GMT
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you need to make yourself a B.O.M. tyre stick out gauge maybe patent pending I don't know time 3.47 I have the tyre stick out gauge saved as a pdf if you want a copy..... |
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"The White Van is strong with this one...."
Chris "Chesney" Allen 1976-2005 RIP
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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A BO tyre stick out gauge as a PDF - I want one please
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ended up with some weller steels that had huge caliper clearance 
