ud-uk
Part of things
Living the French dream!
Posts: 340
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Okay, so it's getting to the time of year to get a new retro to smoke around in, this year I am going for comfort, I'm nearer to 50 than 40 now and had my sports car fun in a Porsche 944 last year. I've given it some thought over the winter and have decided on a Jag in XJ flavour, the problem is, I know nothing about them, so I am turning to you guys for some constructive advice. I am probably going to be looking to spend up to £1500 (yes, I am a bit tight), I am not fussy on the model, year etc. There seems to be a good selection available for that sort of money, I don't mind a little bit of tinkering or paintwork, but don't want to have to remortgage my house by buying a wrong'un, I will only keep it for this year then move it on for something else. So what do you know? enlighten me Here are some pics for your trouble
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1991 Transit Dormobile, The Sweet Bus - SOLD - Now trading in the Bristol area
1991 Mercedes 230 CE - SOLD
1987 Renault Express van - SOLD-
1995 Vauxhall Calibra SE4
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The first jag on air ride is awesome, wanted one just like it ever since I saw a pic. I have nothing further/useful to add, sorry lol
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I've got that Jag feeling!!!Mercdan68
@forddan68
Club Retro Rides Member 68
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I've just bought a xj8, it's great! And too cheap and even cheaper on a classic policy, buy one!
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Fraud owners club member 2003 W211 Mercedes E class 1989 Sierra sapphire 1998 ex bt fiesta van
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Foxy
Posted a lot
Making pink manly in the north!
Posts: 1,913
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Mine
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I'm the handsome fella with the cheesy white specs or is that the cheesy fella with the handsome white specs?
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Despite impending baby arrival, I'm saving all my beer tokens for another Jag. Once you get one, they'll have you hooked for life.
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"You're about as likely to come across a fully functioning old Jag, as you are a taxicab that smells agreeable." - James May
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I've got that Jag feeling!!!fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Feb 10, 2015 11:44:32 GMT
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all i know is everyone seems to be buying jags this year - they're becoming the scene car - so expect prices to go up a bit if you're bidding. might take a bit of time for people advertising to realise and put their prices up though. So buy Adam's above ^^^^ before he puts his price up. Convoyed with it to RRG last year and looks nice and clean.
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Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
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Feb 10, 2015 12:23:33 GMT
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I've been dreaming of an XJ for years but never quite made the plunge due to fuel costs. The late XJs really are a steal though. If I didn't already have the Scimitars I think I'd get one for a year as you are intending.
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www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
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I've got that Jag feeling!!!adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Feb 10, 2015 18:03:30 GMT
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all i know is everyone seems to be buying jags this year - they're becoming the scene car - so expect prices to go up a bit if you're bidding. might take a bit of time for people advertising to realise and put their prices up though. So buy Adam's above ^^^^ before he puts his price up. Convoyed with it to RRG last year and looks nice and clean. I'm so scene I'm selling mine before the scene even get them haha Shameless plug of my sale ad aside, I've thoroughly enjoyed Jag ownership. Its been a reliable, comfortable and surprisingly practical barge to cruise about in. I can only speak for the XJ40 as its the only Jag I've had but the main thing to watch out for is rust in various areas, also the electrics on earlier models with the digital dash can be apparently a bit temperamental. Engine wise, the 4.0 AJ6 is brill, smooth and quiet then very sprightly if you give it a bit of a poke. The 3.2 and 3.6 are similar I believe but the 2.9 AJ6 is a single overhead cam which is a bit slow by all accounts Fuel economy... I got 15-17 on my short commute with heavy traffic up to 29 on a long run down the A14 with the cruise control on All Jags seem to be pretty cheap still so get a bargain while you still can! Series, XJ40, X300, X308 you can't go wrong
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ud-uk
Part of things
Living the French dream!
Posts: 340
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Feb 10, 2015 20:24:14 GMT
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So, all sounds good then, it's going to be 4-6 weeks before I am in a position to have the funds and garage space available, so that gives me a little time to have a look at some and see what I like.
Main thing seems to be to check for corrosion, electrics and sagging headlinings.
I am feeling drawn towards the darker colours, burgundy, navy & black, seems to suit them better, and I prefer the twin headlights against the single rectangular ones, but that's just me!
Adam yours looks in great condition, you should keep it a while longer, sounds like the prices are going to be going up some time soon.
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1991 Transit Dormobile, The Sweet Bus - SOLD - Now trading in the Bristol area
1991 Mercedes 230 CE - SOLD
1987 Renault Express van - SOLD-
1995 Vauxhall Calibra SE4
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
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I've got that Jag feeling!!!adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Feb 10, 2015 20:43:53 GMT
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Ah yes I forgot saggy headlinings! That was something I aimed to avoid Theres plenty out there if you shop around, I wish I could keep mine longer but I can't really justify it, though I am much more attached to it that I am to the Saab thats replaced it so who knows... Nope definitely must sell Edit: On '40's its also worth watching for blue smoke on start up as that could be valve stem seals although I'm led to believe that the valve design exacerbates this and many '40's puff a little on start up Also on the later models like mine, a broken foglight is likely to be that the rear of the unit has melted off if they've been left on too long I also forgot to mention that parts are pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things!
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Last Edit: Feb 10, 2015 20:46:29 GMT by adam73bgt
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fred
Posted a lot
WTF has happened to all the Vennies?
Posts: 2,957
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Feb 10, 2015 21:10:27 GMT
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I'd have a XJ40 again in an instant if I had room, I had a '89 3.6 like above mechanically nothing really to report, usual stuff when looking at one, bodywork, silly electrical s - which didnt affect the car, but irritated you on occasion. check the auto trans oil, which you would do on any auto mind. go like stink when you want them too, and everyone lets a Jaag out of junctions Everyone has to own a Jaaag once in their life. My Old Beaut
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Last Edit: Feb 10, 2015 21:11:46 GMT by fred
'79 Cossie ran Cortina - Sold
2000 Fozzer 2.0 turbo snow beast
'85 Opel Manta GSI - Sold
03 A class Mercedes
Looking for a FD Ventora - Anyone?
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Feb 10, 2015 21:41:54 GMT
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My next one is going to be a Series 2.
The Series 1 was awesome but just a little too quirky and outdated (floor mounted dipswitch next to the clutch... fun when chasing his ^^^ SD1 along dark country roads and press the wrong one) The Series 3 was just a little bit too modern, and despite my love for 'em, the raised rear roofline always got on my nerves.
With the numbers built, the prices aren't going to rocket anytime soon, though the manual cars and the Coupes always do consistently well.
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"You're about as likely to come across a fully functioning old Jag, as you are a taxicab that smells agreeable." - James May
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tdk
Part of things
Posts: 958
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Feb 11, 2015 11:46:05 GMT
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Mine That is just about perfect.
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XL391
Part of things
Posts: 160
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Feb 11, 2015 15:23:59 GMT
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This is my pair, the S3 is looking a bit sorry for itself at the minute and doesn't quite look as good as it does here... Not too clued up on the later cars but if you're looking for a Series XJ, rust is the main enemy and my advice would be to check everywhere! The main bits front to rear, check the front crossmember that runs directly under the radiator, the headlight surrounds, the inner wing and sill closing panel, bottom halves of the wings behind the front wheels, the front windscreen surround on the scuttle, the whole of the sills especially the front and rear extremes where they meet the arches, froorpans where they meet the ails from under the car and inside, front jacking points, rear suspension radius arm mounts, rear screen, fuel filler caps, rear wheel arch lips, rear valance and side panels. That's all! ? They are great cars if you get a good one and take care of it. If problems are left they tend to get worse quickly. However, if you're handy with the spanners you should have no trouble looking after one.
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Last Edit: Feb 11, 2015 15:44:19 GMT by XL391
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Feb 11, 2015 15:50:54 GMT
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As someone intimated above, Jags get under your skin. I've had a beautiful XJ40, a dog of an X300, a facelift 4-litre XJS and now I've really nailed it with a '95 XJR. I found the '40 to feel a fair bit older than the X300s as a daily driver, and the wheel bearings were constantly crying for attention. The R is just epic on every level. They're criminally cheap just at the moment with genuine investment potential being Jag's first supercharged production car, and having been made for such a short period of time before the X308 took over. MPG is worse, but the whine of a supercharger makes up for it... I've found them all to be very robust in terms of powertrain, but unless you're buying from a Jag poindexter then you'll struggle to find one without niggly electrical nuances or tent-like headlining. If you manage that, it is likely to have rusty rear arches, front wings or various other areas of crusty bits. The digital clocks on '300s usually stop working, but you can forgive Jags for that kind of thing because they're just so brilliant. They really do feel special, and non-car friends and neighbours will think you're doing alright for yourself, too. The XJ40 Sovereign that is for sale above looks lovely. This was my wafty 3.2...
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Last Edit: Feb 11, 2015 16:21:18 GMT by Monkfish
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dbdb
Part of things
Posts: 821
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Feb 11, 2015 19:56:48 GMT
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Prices have definitely been creeping up, since there is definitely a lot more interest in the XJ than there was. I don't think it is the number of XJ Jaguars built that has held back prices - especially of Series cars, but a lack of interest in them in recent years. The E-type is far more numerous than the Series Jaguars - indeed there are more E-Type Jaguars registered in the UK than there are XJ40s. It hasn't stopped them being expensive since they are in great demand. I can remember the Series II XJC being tipped for great things price-wise in the 1980s. They didn't do it (or haven't yet), but in my view possibly still could, though I think it is unlikely. For me, the Series II Saloon is one of the most beautiful saloon cars ever made and richly deserves the status enjoyed by the MK2. I guess it needs to star in a television series. Something tells me though that my XJ40 will never make me rich! The £1,500 Series III does look to be good value. You would need to check it VERY carefully for rust though - the Series Jaguars can rust spectacularly. Another thing which counts against it that it is the 3.4 litre. Even as a manual, they are not fast cars. Who am I kidding - they're slow! Slower than the 2.9 litre XJ6 which replaced it in the following XJ40 series, and they're considered underpowered. Still, minimum performance levels set for cars differ between people - there are those who consider my (much faster)3.2 to be too slow, after all. I've also never quite managed to love the Series III restyle. It's the roofline. Rooflines are important to me, so I prefer the style of the XJ40 to the Series III. The Jaguar I know most about is the XJ40. Car for car, a Series Jaguar will always be more expensive than the equivalent XJ40. XJ40 prices seem to have risen quite a bit recently, but from a very low base. There are still XJ40s out there for less than £1,000, but though you can get lucky, when they appear on forums they do seem to end up being riddled with rust once their new owner examines them closely. The XJ40 resists rust better than the Series Jaguars before it, but is still a very talented ruster. It is rust which generally kills them, since the mechanicals are robust, reliable and long lived. Where to check? At the front of the sills, as with any car. The bottom of the front wings can also rust through. This is caused by a build up of soil/debris behind the front wing liner which then holds water. Rusty front wing bottoms can mean rusty sill ends too - but doesn't always. The fronts of the floor pan on both sides of the car. Along the sill to floor pan join on both sides of the car. Look for rust on the floor pan side of the pinch weld which runs down the length of the car. At the rear of the sill, where it joins the wheel arch. The front corners of the bonnet on early cars. Late cars don't suffer the problem. Early cars can be fitted with late bonnets. The rear of the boot lid on early cars. Again, late cars are not affected and the late model boot lids can be fitted on early cars. The rear deck panel around the fuel filler On the rear 'D' pillar weld under the chrome trim on early cars, and body colour trim on late cars. The sunroof panel Under the bonnet, on the inner wings around the plastic Rokut nuts which hold in the screws for the wing liners. On late cars (with the battery in the boot), the bulkhead between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment must be checked CAREFULLY for rust. There is a design fault which causes rust all along the seam between the outer bulkhead and the inner bulkhead. This is especially apparent under the wiper housing and in the corners of the bulkhead where it meets the inner wings, but can strike anywhere. I would go as far as to say that most cars will have a little bit of rust here, but serious rust is a problem. Check the front carpets for damp. If they are wet, then you could easily have a leak from the bulkhead. The top of the plenum at the corners, under the front wings. Any swelling you see under the rear of the front wings, rust stains or rust creeping in at the corners off the bonnet opening by the rubber seal at the rear could be signs of rust here. It is a major source of wet footwells in XJ40s and X300s. It isn't particularly expensive to fix since it is out of sight so welding doesn't have to be upper neat, but it is important to be aware of it. The X300 shares most/all of there rust areas (don’t believe people who say the X300 does’t rust –they’re as bad as the XJ40!!) and adds a couple of its own. If you are looking at an X300, check the inner wheel arch behind the front shock absorber. They (and I believe the X308) can rust seriously here, resulting in an MOT fail. It is an expensive thing to fix. Early X300s have a problem with rear wheel arch rust. If serious, this is not cheap to repair. Later X300s don’t seem to suffer problems though. The XJ40 came in three basic series. Early cars with a digital dash which could be very electrically fragile and ‘needy’; analogue dash cars with the battery under the bonnet and a new, much more reliable electrical system; and late cars with another new electrical system – and massive under the skin changes to the structure of the car which means they are basically, almost an X300. These cars have their battery in the boot and very late cars have an X300 rear suspension. These late cars tend to be very reliable – unless they are rusty. In my view, rust is the source of most maladies in these late cars, either through bad earths, or electrical components getting wet. the lower spec XJ6 versions got the quad headlights, with the high spec Sovereign and Daimler versions getting the rectangular 'Fishtank' headlights. They are quick and easy to swap for quads if you don't like them. The rare XJ12 had quads - every Jaguar rule has an exception! Any Jag XJ is a heavy old beast, so check the suspension for wear in the bushes and shock absorbers. They don’t seem to suffer much from sagging or broken springs. The X300 is fundamentally a mildly reengineered, facelifted, late XJ40. Ford (who owned Jaguar by this time) spent a great deal of money on production facilities, which showed on the X300. The cars are significantly less hand built than the XJ40. This means they are more efficient, but less charming. I don’t know much about the X308 V8 engined XJs. The V8 is more powerful and silky smooth, but far more fragile than the virtually unburstable six cylinder engines in the XJ40 and X300. They use a more modern ZF5HP transmission too, which has known issues and a much shorter life than the ZF4HP transmission used in the XJ40 and X300. The ZF4HP is very robust in these Jags. I have owned an XJ40 for a long time now. It has been fantastic car. I don’t think I’d want to own anything else. I can see the appeal of the X300 – especially in supercharged XJR guise. Still, I prefer the style of the XJ40 and its more classic feel, something which is difficult to put into words. The X300 is better, but the XJ40 is nicer. People say the same thing about the XJ40 versus the series III – so these judgements are personal and subjective. In a perfect world, the supercharged AJ16 would have been available in theXJ40!! Adam73bgt’s gold Sovereign 4.0 looks a good buy at the money, if the photos are representative (I’m sure they are!) and is as low on rust as it appears. It is a plus point that he has been writing about the car for some time – and the posts have not been filled with tales of woe, breakdowns and generalised decay! Regarding XJ40 wheel bearings, the odd thing is some cars seem to go through them, whilst on others they give no trouble at all. My dad had a 3.6 in the’80s which seemed to permanently need a new wheel bearing on one wheel or another, yet my car still has its originals. I plan to replace them, but not because they need to be done. Odd! Here is a photo of my old 3.2:
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pcj
Part of things
Posts: 203
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Feb 11, 2015 23:55:01 GMT
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Hello People, Our Jaguar "Bagheera" is of 1988 vintage, 5.3 ltr Series 3 Sovereign HE automatic, approx 126,000 miles, 0-60 8.3 seconds, top speed 147mph, 15mpg! Cost £1350 some 18 months ago. Re things to look for: DBDB and Adam73 covered most of the stuff to look for, esp avoiding rusty ones unless welding is your new religion. Some other points: History: the more the merrier and signs of a caring previous owner is a big plus ("Bagheera" for instance came with a MOMO steering wheel which I hated on sight. However in the boot, carefully boxed, with the owners name and address on the box, and wrapped in bubble-wrap was the original steering wheel with the growler and she is now proudly wearing it). On the big cat 5.3 keep the coolant and oil levels up to the mark and do the changes as per the book. The 5.3 is a beautiful engine and is hardly overworked at around 50HP/litre but she'll bite you in the wallet if you let her overheat 'cos you failed to keep up with any tiny but cumulative waterloss which is not unusual given the age of the hoses that may be in there. Yes, there is a low coolant sensor on the expansion tank, but that's no excuse for not looking regularly with the Mk1 eyeball. The coolant sensor is "fail-safe" which does nothing for your day when you turn the key ready to start the car and it stays on glaring at you instead of going out in the first couple of seconds. Mine did that to me one dark and cold morning because the wire had fatigued through at the LUCAR connector. I refused to drive her until I had the time to get the eyeball down the filler neck and you've never seen such attention to detail in water level checking for the next couple of days until I could find the time to make good the connection! Check all the electrics work. Many electrical gremlins can be traced back to either: old fuses or corrosion inside the many bullet connectors. Most of my fuses were original from the day she was built in 1988 and several had end caps that were free to rotate so the wire inside was making contact when it felt like it. I found that out when I lost wipers in a thunder rain downpour on the A55 at night in heavy traffic. Luckily I was able to turn into a layby almost immediately. So if you're buying a V12 take her for a good run. On mine I turn the key, listening for the fuel pump pressurising the fuel rails, by the time I've checked that the various warning lights come on and go out in those couple of seconds the fuel pump will stop. Turn the key and hot or cold she starts first time. The oil pressure light should go out within a couple of seconds. Prolonged churning on the key isn't a good sign. There's 12 cylinders in there so the engine doesn't have to turn through many degrees before one of them should have sparked and fired up. Let her warm up, at least for a couple of mins. It's not kind to drag her off cold and anyway you can watch the gauges do their thing while you savour the leather smell while marvelling at the almost absence of engine noise (in fact the viscous fan is the source of most noise at tickover). You'll be impressed by the acceleration which just keeps coming! She can throw her two tons to 60 in 8.3 seconds and then you realise she just wants to go on and on! Watch out for your licence and try and remember, LSD notwithstanding, that there's some 300HP and prodigious torque waiting to be unleashed so don't get too brave on loose surfaces or turning out of junctions until you're used to her. You can make the tail step out, esp on some of today's poorly surfaced/diesel splattered bits of road, but the pussycat promptly returns if you just ease off your lead foot. The brakes should be powerful and progressive. During the trip look/listen for things like brake judder, steering pulling, transmission clonks, check the battery is charging (and reads around 13V+), oil pressure is around 70-80psi on mine on a fast run and doesn't drop below about 30 at idle. Watch the temperature gauge, it will rise fairly quickly, there's a lot of engine under that bonnet, but it should stabilise in the green (mine stays in the very lower part (at which point the fan kicks in)) and if the electric fan is running when you park the car it should remain running even if you switch the ignition off and should only cut out when it has cooled the engine (mine usually takes about 2 mins to stop). There are many tales about how hard it is to tell if she's running on 10, 11 or all 12 cylinders, so powerful and smooth is the engine. Mine passes the 12 cylinder "party trick": I can balance a £1 coin on edge on each intake manifold with the engine ticking over and the coins don't fall over. On that point try to ascertain from the seller when the plugs were last changed or at least removed for cleaning. At least once a year is good, more is better, longer is heading for bad cos if left undisturbed plugs can stick in the heads. It is also wise to get the proper plug spanner to remove them. On cars with aircon (which is most) ask if the front two plugs (hidden under the aircon compressor) were also done. Some people skip them because they don't want to depressurise the system. They don't realise you don't have to. The compressor can be unbolted and lifted just far enough out of the way to reach the plugs without depressurising. BTW while working on the engine or doing the coin balancing trick its is a VERY good idea to have one of those spring-ended retrieval tools to hand and a magnetic one as well. I'm well on the way to proving the urban myth that if you drop anything in the V12 engine bay it will rarely fall all the way through to the road (if it does you've probably got something missing). Three times now I've had to retrieve things (twice a spanner and once the filler cap for the power-steering). It is "busy" in there, but all the everyday stuff you need access to ~(oil/water/windscreen wash filler) are all fairly easily accessible. The one exception I found was the power-steering filler. I suppose it would have been easier if I'd unclipped the left-hand airfilter box as the cap is down a "hole" and pretty well obscured below the intake to the filter. I figured, just, that I could wriggle my hand in there and unscrew the cap. I could, but on putting it back I fumbled it and it dropped. It didn't reach the road! Magnetic retrieval tool to the rescue. Check the aircon works (unless you're happy to sort it later) and don't believe the usual "it just needs a regas" excuse. It might, or it might be on the wrong (now banned gas) or need some expensive bits fitting. Check the tyres for damage, wear and age. Plenty of tread on 15/20yr old tires isn't necessarily a cause for rejoicing, you really wouldn't want a blow out under hard acceleration or high speed cruising. Remember she is a class act and has a fetish for black rubber things like Pirelli 4000s and similar. They are high speed rated and don't come cheap. Check the fuel gauge works when switched from one tank to the other (left hand switch on the console changes tanks) as she has two, remember, holding about 10 gals each. Refuel her for as much as you can afford and check the gauges follow. While you've got the filler caps open look just aft of them at the lower end of the filler recess. There's a small hole there which is actually a drain. Check it is clear by feeding something slim and flexible such as a plastic rod down it. If that drain is blocked by debris/road curse word then the filler recess fills up with rainwater and it can easily leak past the cap seal and into the fuel tanks. The bottom will eventually rot out usually leading to a strong smell of petrol in the boot and tank removal! Meantime she may throw a hissy fit as the injectors don't like watery stuff in the petrol. Oh and just as a little decoy a strong smell of petrol finding its way into the cabin from time to time may also be caused by a design "feature" in that part of the fuel tank plumbing runs up inside the C pillars alongside the rear screen and can leak fumes from time to time. Owners have been known to remove it! Parts are plentiful and in general fairly reasonably priced (one good point in favour of parts-bin engineering). If you do your own maintenance, as most folks on here do, which will keep maintenance costs reasonable, then if you buy a reasonably good one, you'll love it and have a hoot driving it. Fuel consumption is to some extent very much a red-herring, You can't run a car like this if you're totally penniless, but I'm a pensioner, on a basic pension and I can run one. I get an average of 15 mpg! (Somebody resuscitate that chap at the back). Let's put that in perspective: many of the "classic" cars and indeed many of the sub £2,000 more modern machinery only turn in around 25 to 30 mpg, so for twice the running costs I get so much more car and performance. Many people spend more than my extra petrol cost on hobbies like fishing, boating, buying cigarettes etc etc. (I've also found that not buying food is helping my diet tremendously too ) I could buy something much more modern giving 40, 50 or more mpg (and have to take my wallet to the dealers every time it had a little electronic niggle) but it would cost me maybe 10 or 15 thousand pounds more than I paid for my car. Even at 15 mpg £15k would buy some 3,000 gals of petrol at today's prices or some 45,000 miles of high class motoring in "Bagheera". I rest my case m'lud. PS These types of car are a class act. Can we please refer to them as Jaguars and not Jaaaags! Every time Clarkson does that I find myself wishing that garroting was an Olympic sport. Esp if you Google "Daimler V12 last road test Youtube" where you'll find he had a much better appreciation of them than his "Jaaaag" speak. PPS: For a really good look at a V12 on the road Google "Harry Metcalfe's Garage Jaguar Youtube". Harry Metcalfe, as many will know, was the founder and owner of EVO magazine. His V12 has a 5 speed Getrag manual box and I think I hate him.
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Last Edit: Feb 12, 2015 21:41:28 GMT by pcj: Gave up on trying to insert pics!
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ud-uk
Part of things
Living the French dream!
Posts: 340
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Feb 12, 2015 19:28:41 GMT
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Well I have to say a huge thank you to everyone who has contributed here with their knowledge of these great Jaguars.
It is much appreciated that you have taken the time and effort to tell me what you know, I am pretty much thinking of nothing else but jaguars at the moment, so the wife tells me!
As soon as I have bought mine (sooner rather than later) I will put it up in the readers rides section for your comments, thanks again guys, I love this forum.
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1991 Transit Dormobile, The Sweet Bus - SOLD - Now trading in the Bristol area
1991 Mercedes 230 CE - SOLD
1987 Renault Express van - SOLD-
1995 Vauxhall Calibra SE4
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