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Bringing this back to the top, I have a fair bit of panel making to do on the van and need a shrinker/stretcher. It will no doubt be useful on numerous other projects too so I'd like to future proof a bit but don't have the budget to buy a 'proper' one nor the floor space for a standing one. I was originally planning to buy the Frost/Eastwood ones with the bench vice mount www.frost.co.uk/shrinker-stretcher-set-2b-2j/www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-shrinker-stretcher-base-plate/so let's say a budget of £250, but I'm concerned that the limited (assume 1") throat might get in the way for some projects. Has anyone bought this style and found this to be a problem for general low-level DIY restoration? The Metz ones are the same price but have a 3" throat, no idea if they're the same mounting for the base plate but presumably £20 will be enough to make a base plate. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metz-Tools-Pair-Shrinker-Stretcher-metal-working-tool-classic-car/254226678609?hash=item3b31174351:g:9JQAAOSwyQVc1XQCOr I can buy one with an 8" throat, but would have to swap the jaws over to change between shrinking and stretching. Ebay Shrinker StretcherWould the advantage of a deeper throat outweigh the tedium of constantly changing the jaws? Or by the time a deeper throat becomes an advantage are you at the stage of needing an English Wheel anyway? CJ Autos also do them Budget model cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/metal-shrinker-and-stretcher-mw05/#Heavy duty model cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/heavy-duty-shrinker-and-stretcher-mw0570/I have had a Metz type one for several years - its very good - don't be put off by having to swap the jaws over - its a simple task and takes less than 60 secs - I have mine bolted to a piece of equal angle to allow it to go into the vice when I need it - English Wheel is another world entirely and unless you are planning on making up full panels is probably not worth the time / effort / expense let alone the amount of room that they take up in a workshop - its a lot more cost effective to purchase new panels or commission a panel maker if you are having to go down that route - but a decent quality shrinker / stretcher is a must if you have lots of repairs to do - has is a decent folder & a good clean method of cutting your sheet steel
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Last Edit: Apr 1, 2020 18:48:07 GMT by Deleted
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Thanks for your advice both, I think perhaps for balance I'll go for the 3" throat Metz ones. I'll potentially already be buying 6mm angle and plate for a couple of other bits so a base might not cost me anything extra.
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Ah, just spotted your username. This is the bit I was talking about being able to swap quickly, you'll recognise it (though it's usually a single piece): As I do them for other people too, I try to minimise time. It's difficult to get the top bit (the stretch) to the correct shape without also doing the bottom shrink - they really need to be done a bit at a time. The big problem I have with mine (which I have read a solution for, but not got around to) is that the jaw retainer is held in place with screws that fasten down hand-tight (they're knurled, not hex head) into a slot, and they keep coming undone, allowing the jaws to slip. The fix I read was to weld washers over each slot so they can't slip, but I think I'd prefer to make a replacement jaw retainer if I can. I don't like making irreversible changes to stuff, even though I've had them probably a decade now. English Wheel is another world entirely and unless you are planning on making up full panels is probably not worth the time / effort / expense let alone the amount of room that they take up in a workshop I'd really like an English Wheel, but as well as the space and so on I am a bit concerned that the time it takes to learn how to use it properly is the big stumbling block for me. I've watched plenty of videos as people wheel out wonderful stuff, but it all looks so easy because they've been practising for years. While there probably were loads of these in the local scrap merchant 20-odd years ago, I think I've missed the boat for finding a bargain.
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English Wheels - There are some cheaper versions about now days and you can purchase the wheel sets / jaws / risers if you wanted to fabricate the frame yourself - I had a friend do just that - however he found himself falling over it 20 times more for every single use that he made of it - in the end he sold it - has you are probably aware I have been into restorations for long time - it takes years to master the craft and some people get it and have the hand to eye coordination along with the required dexterity - a lot don't - I have the skills but I don't have the room or the time hence I go to a fulltime panel maker
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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shrinker stretchers. whos is best?Phil H
@philhoward
Club Retro Rides Member 133
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I still long for the day I find some Muppet selling his recently deceased Grandad’s Eckold for a tenner 🤣🤣 That's the domain of Facebook Marketplace - managed to bag a pair of Carver clamps for £20 last year. Conversely you find pairs of Silverline pliers for £25
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English Wheels - There are some cheaper versions about now days I've seen the bench-mounted ones that are available, and I'm annoyed that we don't have "Harbor(sic) Freight" over here as they were selling them for around $50 last year, as opposed to £200-odd in the UK. A bit bendy, but not a bad thing for learning, and figuring out whether it would be any use / whether I have the knack for it.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Deffo, the only one other than an eckold that is any different is the Baileigh with the oval dies. The rest are all the same thing with slight variations on the frame. They are all decent enough quality for a hobbyist from what i can tell, i have a small frost one and a 8inch throat Chinese special, both the same jaws! The jaws will wear no doubt but not that quick, the casting on the 8inch one feels a bit flexible but its not broken yet! when it does il just fabricate a new deeper frame. Id prefer a bit more 'feel' that a stiffer frame would give.
The deep throat is useful but don't under estimate how much you NEED it to be foot operated. The hand lever type will curse word you off pretty quick, especially when you have a big panel to work on.
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The Metz shrinker/stretcher turned up today, about 200mm length by 50mm width, not sure how that compares to the smaller style 1" throat ones. Doing a bit of research on what to make the base from and have read a few post saying they need to put so much force into the lever that vice-mount base plates can bend. I was originally going to get some 5 or 6mm plate and make an Eastwood style base Or this style, could use two lengths of 50x6mm equal angle I have already But now wondering whether one made from 30x50x3mm box section might be a bit sturdier and easier to use, or maybe not at all as the load wouldn't be spread over such an area. Any thoughts on the best route to go? Appreciate they are all a compromise over a floor standing mount.
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
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Any thoughts on the best route to go? Appreciate they are all a compromise over a floor standing mount. In terms of layout I'd think the centre one gives you more flexibility. If you consider shrinking a piece, the top and bottom layouts wouldn't take long before the workpiece starts to foul against the stretcher body. I'm fortunate in that one of my benches is made from steel box section so it was relatively easy to mount them on opposing corners on a piece of angle iron to throw them away from the bench body a little - not ideal, as you say a floor mount would be better but then it needs a decent amount of free space in the shed, and you have to trade that off against how often the devices are used. I haven't run into an issue with needing more force than the angle iron (which is probably 3mm or 4mm) can take, but then mine aren't rated for doing any thicker than 1.2mm steel in any case.
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I have mine (individual body) bolted to some 25mm thick walled box section, with a piece of 40mm flat bar under that.
When in the vice sideways, the flat bar stops the body slipping upwards as you apply (the sometimes) large force on the handle.
Whatever your design ensure it caters for the force applied via the lever trying to tip the body backwards/upwards.
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I've put mine back to back and added pedals, all knocked up from whatever i had left in my steel pile at the time. So much easier to use with a pedal so you can hold the work piece with both hands.
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