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I will do some scanning tomorrow if I get the chance. It's a bit noisy and the children are asleep near by. The distributor you have is from a 1972-73 PI according to the manual. It suggests setting to top dead centre at idle and has 26 degrees max advance at 3000rpm The only data I have for the 2500TC suggests 10 degrees BTDC at idle and has a maximum of 20 degrees at 2800rpm but you also have a vacuum advance of up to 14 degrees to add to the confusion. Thats with the 41536 distributor and is fitted to 1974 cars. Great no problem I wasn't expecting instant service :-) I have a 41536 dizzy in my spares, well at least I have the body with the weights in it, so I'm guessing this must be the original one a previous owner has swapped in the past. I also got a pi engine, in bits, when i bought the car so this could make sense. This though begs the question, did he change the cam too? Gah I'm really thinking it would be easier to change to Nodiz eller megajolt or even an 123 ignition unit. But in the short term I guess I need to check my engine number and take a guess as to the cam and build up the original distributor. One thing I do know is that the ignition advance isn't correct as it is now. I have a new coil ordered to replace the one that has been cooking on the side of the block, just to make sure i have a clean baseline to work with.
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Last Edit: Sept 1, 2017 6:33:10 GMT by omnipod
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For the seats have you considered SAAB? 9000,95 or 93 come in leather, can be had with manual adjustment and heated! I would have thought they are pretty common where you are:) They fit in a Mk1 Cortina so will definately fit in the Triumph. Yeah maybe i'm not casting the net wide enough here, I just saw a set of Rover 75 seats for sale on FB and they look quite in keeping with the Triumph, I only mentioned the alfa seats because it seems to be the standard choice among other T2000 owners.
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Alfa 156 / 147 seats fit quite easily, look good and are comfy. It's also possible to fit BMW E36 Coupe seats (and possibly saloon too) and gives good results. However, the seats themselves need some fairly significant mods to go in. PI distributor is a bad fit for the carb engines due to not having the correct (or even any) vacuum advance characteristic. 123-Tune is the ultimate solution short of Megajolt but just having the right distributor with working Vacuum will make a big difference to drivabilty and economy. This lot sell new 45D6 distributors remarkably cheaply - but absolutely no details about the curves! www.simonbbc.com/distributors/6cyl-points/aston-martin-45d6-standard-points-ignition-distributorNick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Alfa 156 / 147 seats fit quite easily, look good and are comfy. It's also possible to fit BMW E36 Coupe seats (and possibly saloon too) and gives good results. However, the seats themselves need some fairly significant mods to go in. PI distributor is a bad fit for the carb engines due to not having the correct (or even any) vacuum advance characteristic. 123-Tune is the ultimate solution short of Megajolt but just having the right distributor with working Vacuum will make a big difference to drivabilty and economy. This lot sell new 45D6 distributors remarkably cheaply - but absolutely no details about the curves! www.simonbbc.com/distributors/6cyl-points/aston-martin-45d6-standard-points-ignition-distributorNick Yeah all seems a bit too good to be true for those simonbbc distributors, don't you think? I've always liked your efi setup and that is my ulitmate goal too. I bought the car with the seller promising a spare pi engine included, well he wasn't wrong but unfortunately I have everything except the pi inlet manifolds :-( So I need to source a set of those (not so easy over here) and then i'm going efi, but until then it's back to basics with points in the correct dizzy. I just want to drive it for a bit before I start taking it apart again. Still getting ahead of myself here, need to get the brake discs off first and get the retest sorted. Mojo is 100% back now.
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Well now, having ascertained that the distributor wasn't the correct one for the car I got to wondering..... have I ever checked the engine number? Well no. I have been concentrating on getting the bodywork in order and not even touched anything to do with the engine, until now. When I finally had a bit of time to get to the workshop today I did just that, checked the engine number. Ummm, OK So not quite what I had expected to find I must admit, I seem to have lost approximately 500cc displacement. :-( So a 2 litre engine from a 2000 TC - it's a mongrel. Gah so not ony the wrong distributor but the wrong engine as well. Not sure how many cars this is put together from but the more I look at the mechanical side the more puzzling it gets. I also know that the dashboard is from a PI and the wheels from a 2500S / Stag. Still, it won't be so hard for me to make more changes when I know nothing is original. So basically I have no idea about the engine specification, could be anything. I now need to go and check the engine number on the spare block I have, but that is at a different location. In other news I got the discs off so now need to get someone to relieve them of their rust for me.
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Well that didn't last long, I had a complete car for less than 2 months before I started taking it apart again, I just can't help myself. I got someone to grind the brake discs down for me but unfortunately the rust on one of them was worse than first appeared and it ended up being way under the minimum thickness, bumhats. So I bit the very expensive bullet a bought new discs and pads. Me being me though just couldn't face putting new shiny discs on grubby old hubs, so off they came, followed by the struts and track control arms, erm, and the suspension crossmember, once I had started I just could surpress the urge to keep unbolting stuff. And of course the logical conclusion to all this was that I now couldn't live with the old underseal in the wheel arches, so I spent a few hours scraping all that off too. Still it was worth the effort when I found nice rot free wheel arches underneath. Happy days. Taking it all apart though revealed the need for new lower ball joints, track rod ends, dampers and now that I'm already all in I may as well go the extra few quid for new wheel bearings too. Seriously why can't I just leave things alone?
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It's like having a scab that's nearly healed, we just can't help picking!
Great news about the wheelarches though.
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A bit late now but Stag calipers are a direct swap, Stag discs are alot cheaper than 2000 ones, and you end up with much better brakes as well.....
Remarkably rust-free arches!
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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Nov 14, 2017 16:57:26 GMT
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Shame to hear about the engine. If the spare one you have is the original it might have something wrong with it. The 2.0L engine is OK, some say they are nicer as they rev more freely you just miss out on the bottom end torque.
When I bought my 2000 I drove it home and stripped and rebuilt the suspension on it straight away. I spent a lot on new and uprated parts so I have not actually driven a standard one very far.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:55:09 GMT
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Yeah I knew about the Stag calipers fitting vitesseefi but for various reasons I decided not to go down that avenue. steveg The spare block has code MM3708HEBW stamped on it so I think I'm right in saying this is a PI block, so not the original. I have plans to build this up eventually, with efi if I can get the changed approved by the relevant authorities. I'm on a parts spending spree now though with strut inserts and new springs at the top of the list.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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Nov 14, 2017 20:33:37 GMT
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I used to know what all the engine codes were but have forgotten now.
How difficult is it getting engine mods passed ? I would have though modern injection could only be a good thing. Could you fit a cat in the exhaust to really make them happy ?
Front anti-roll bars improve things a lot if you haven't got one already but it means getting suitable suspension arms and a cross member. I did that on mine and eventually fitted power steering. I was never happy with how the non power rack were mounted. None of that is very cheap though.
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Nov 14, 2017 21:12:09 GMT
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"MM" is 2500S or TC so could be the original. PI would be "MG". Anyway, 40+ years after manufacture whether the engine number (or prefix letters) have any meaning is a bit doubtful. The blocks are interchangeable between 2000 and 2500 anyway, same bore size, same rods - just the crankshaft and pistons are different - so it might at least be worth taking a spark plug out and roughly measuring the stroke. 2L =76mm, 2.5 = 95mm. You can use the PI manifolds as a basis for EFI so it looks really quite alot like PI, just uses less fuel. Here's one I did earlier (since sold) This one has the original 6 butterflies removed and a single throttle body instead as I really couldn't be bothered to do battle with the oversized butterflies and crappy linkage, but it is possible to retain the original butterflies if you want. With a DIY flowed head, TR6 cast manifold and twin downpipes and the standard "132" cam, it made 148 bhp and > 160lb/ft of torque from 1800 - 5000 rpm. And capable of 35mpg average. Would have been better on fuel if I drove slower..... but was a fast car that made a nice noise....... Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Nov 14, 2017 21:19:54 GMT
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vitesseefi - Ahh OK so it may well be the original engine, it is all in pieces (just like most of the stuff I own) so I can see what size the pistons are. I have read all your posts about when you built your engine and this is what I'm aiming for eventually. I have been collecting parts and managed to pick up a TR6 manifold not so long ago, I also have the PI manifolds waiting to be collected from the UK. Still first things first need to get the front suspension parts bought and put back together.
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Nov 14, 2017 21:29:04 GMT
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I was suggesting to measure the stroke on the engine that is in the car as although the ML prefix suggests 2L it could easily have been rebuilt as a 2.5 at some point. The later 2L engines have domed pistons (so they could use the same head as the 2.5) which is another thing to look for. Pistons are the same diameter for 2 and 2.5 - only the stroke is different.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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Nov 14, 2017 21:42:05 GMT
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Thats a good point about it might just be the wrong block. I can't remember if there are any other clues like crank pulley. I just had a look in my workshop manual and can't find the ML code listed although it is elsewhere.
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So yeah, just one job at a time, but it's never that simple is it? You always come across those little jobs that 'just' need to be done or tidied up that you had completely forgotten about. So I had to make the to do list even longer. Anyway I've been chipping away at this over the last month and progress has been made. Exhaust was fitted after a massive struggle, not the easiest of systems to hang correctly on your own, making sure it doesn't touch anything isn't easy as it crosses the propshaft and then goes throught the suspension subframe as well. I tidied up the floor and bit and protected the places I had welded with some epoxy mastic. I will come back to this and put some sound deadening pads down, but I want to know it is reasonably watertight before I do that. The carpet cleaned up pretty well, it's just a shame that i'm missing the front footwell carpets, I guess the PO chucked them out as they were probably almost constantly wet. I'm probably going to source some Alfa Romeo 156 seats over the winter as the originals are pretty uncomfortable and don't offer much support for my ageing back. After what felt like another million small jobs it was finally back on its wheels again. I still have a few bits of trim to fit and I have managed to find a pair of indicators for the B post which were missing, I'll fit those when they arrive next week. Needless to say I just put some Electrox on the passenger door, I will weld it up over winter, probably, maybe. And with that it was time to get it out in the daylight for the fist time in almost 4 years. Ta daaaa... not looking it's best yet but I know now that it is a solid car again. I let it stand idling for 35 minutes just to make sure there weren't any liquids escaping from places they souldn't. It all looked pretty good so I took it for a little spin too, a pre MOT shakedown if you will. Just great to be back behind the wheel again. So hopefully an MOT next week, and then I can start on the jobs I haven't done yet. I think it will be sooo much easier to motivate myself for these when I know I have a running car. Non o/d box :/
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i think its a really good DIY repair
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Certainly looks decent. Need drain hole(s) somewhere to stop it happening again ?
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very good job in the end....those compound curves are not easy to get right and you don't know youve gone wrong until its too late sometimes....but you did well....
I can see a drain hole in there somewhere for peace of mind. (and perhaps a place to spray some wax into later?
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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