vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Yeah, I'm not thrilled by the fogs as they are, looked even worse with just one on the back. They do look better in person, in that way things do on cars sometimes. I'll likely recess them either side of the number plate at a later date, for now it's a case of getting things legal as quickly as possible and more fabrication and welding isn't an option for a while.
I could probably get some chrome rings made for the inner lights, I just don't really want to, they look fine as they are.
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This might match your rear lamps; linkOr these fit really easily and only sink into the car about 15mm - linkThey are truck fog lights so search for those instead.
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Could you mount the fig light underneath 70s hot rod stylee or just on the inside of the rear valance so you can't see the mountings. Either that or could you grab a small high level one from something modern to mount on the rear screen?
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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They'll do for now. The main reason for fitting them is to be legal. Moving them from where they are now to a prettier location is going to need more work than I can invest at the moment so I'm just going to get them working and change this at a later date if I discover something I'm happier with. Certainly I'd prefer to have done something more subtle, that means spending more cash and I'm trying to keep that to a minimum until I've got the car through an MoT. If I get bogged down in the details now I shan't ever get it home and it's easier to sort out the details when I've got the enjoyment of use as a distraction, especially now that I'm having to work outdoors for the forseeable as the weather and nights are closing in.
I want to focus on getting the lights all working as they should now. We've got some intermittent switch issues that are getting in the way, probably because of all the dust that's got into everything while I've been working on the car. I have a very short list of pre-MoT fixes to run through and I'm hoping to get it booked in before the month is out.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,341
Club RR Member Number: 160
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What about (in future, not now) frenching some Lucas 'landrover' lamps into the valance as fogs? Be pretty easy with some exhaust offcuts I'd think, seeing how well the main tail lights came out!
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Oct 12, 2016 19:23:24 GMT
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Luckily, I'm too poor to buy a 4 --- We got to the bottom of the headlight issue which turned out to be corroded connections. The headlight wiring for the sealed beams needs the inner bowl plugs changing for the new halogens as they're a slightly different fitting. However, things do work fine so that's a step in the right direction. The really nice thing about these halogens is that it's not that obvious they're a replacement for the sealed beams thanks to the domed glass lenses and they sit further back so if I do want to do a hideaway or tube grille at any point it will be a lot easier to install. At the back we got the full complement of bulbs in. Just the fog lights and number plate to wire up now. The connection on the outer brake light on the passenger side is still a bit iffy, we're not sure if it's corrosion, a slightly deformed connector or a bit of both so fettling continues on that one. Just running lights on here, all four of them. The four brake lights are in the upper halves of the clusters. Today my new air filter arrived. I had to get something smaller that was a direct fit for the HIF44 SU carb. Luckily, this is the same carb as used on Minis so there was some choice out there. For £20 I got myself a K&N-alike which fits by unbolting the old bracket from the carb and bolting the new back plate on through two different holes. Very easy swap and makes quite a nice engine note. It's likely I'll need a different needle for this carb too, it can likely be tuned on the standard set up to run well enough, if a little rich, I've got a friend on the case with the needle as he knows his way around SUs quite well. Sounds pretty fruity on that carb, in a good way, and more importantly it clears the hydragas pipe repair. I imagine there will be a small loss in fuel economy and perhaps a tiny increase in performance. Happily the car now starts easily and comes off choke fairly rapidly just like it used to in regular use. I'm waiting on my hydragas fluid arriving and the throttle cable turning up so that the car is a bit more mobile. I took a short video of the car running today and would like to upload it, unfortunately the format my phone records in isn't recognised so I may use my camera instead when I'm next at the car.
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hamps
Posted a lot
www.medwayrscentre.co.uk
Posts: 2,077
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Oct 12, 2016 19:38:36 GMT
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love the rear lights, but those fogs hanging off the rear end really spoil the look
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Oct 12, 2016 20:13:04 GMT
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He did say they are not staying, but they work and will get it through the MOT.
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orangecords
Part of things
yawner extraordinaire
Posts: 892
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Oct 16, 2016 20:14:04 GMT
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princess is looking great now. its a car that needs a certain type of vision/creativity to see through and improve what has always been an unfairly slated design. mate, you really have that vision. to be able to see potential in anything is a gift i wish i had. keep it up!
this threads been bookmarked from day one and will remain so far into the future
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I then wanted to start cleaning the interior as it stinks of wood (the material not the smell of a boner) best quote ever!
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Oct 17, 2016 16:30:44 GMT
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Thank you for the continued positive vibes.
Today I finally got a smaller dressing on my foot which means I can wear shoes. That also means I can drive and do stuff outside which I've been unable to do since Thursday. So I cracked on and got the Rover's coolant system treated to some biodegreaser which flushed a lot of grime out of the expansion bottle and presumably other places. Another flush with clean water and then refilled with proper antifreeze for the first time in at least six months. No airlocks, happily. There's still some horrible gunge in the coolant system, I suspect it hasn't been looked after for much of its life before it came to me and I'm hoping the routine of flushing out the system regularly this year will help combat that.
If I've time and the weather is nice tomorrow I hope to be giving the Princess some attention, the next round of fettling can commence now because the throttle cable and hydragas fluid have arrived which will allow me to lift the nose end about half an inch or so. At the minute, the tyres don't quite clear the arches on the front and the sump is just a bit lower than I'd like. Suspension has, happily, stayed up with no leaks or problems apparent. The car continues to start and run without issue. In theory, the original headlight plugs should be modifiable to fit onto the new halogen inners too. It's pretty much just wiring standing between the Princess and an MoT now.
Finally, the Renault. As things stand its tucked up in the garage at home out of the weather and harms way. I'm saving up to get the engine measured/inspected locally since I can't with the tools I have and I don't want to invest in tools I'm unlikely to use again for more than the cost of getting things inspected. I'm also keeping an eye out for a cheap running 4 engine just in case, but it has to be super cheap to be worthwhile, we're talking no more than £80 including collection/delivery. I should be able to sort out the engine I do have for not a lot but the Renault is now officially on the back burner again so I can focus on the Princess and the Rover.
More news when I have it.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,011
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Oct 17, 2016 21:13:08 GMT
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What other tools than Plastigauge, one or two micrometers and maybe a telescopic bore gauge do you need to inspect the engine? I think I read somewhere you already have Plastigauge; good used mics and telescopic gauges can be had very cheaply on eBay.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Oct 17, 2016 22:02:06 GMT
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What I need is a very, very tiny micrometer for measuring the internal diameter of the big ends so I know which outer diameter is true of the bearing shells for this engine, something I'm not sure of. I'd also like the peace of mind of someone with some experience telling me what the measurements are on everything in the bottom end and whether or not I've got a bearing shell, con rod or crankshaft issue, something I just can't tell from the tools and knowledge I have. The Renault is, and probably always will be, very low priority on the project list and needs to remain that way for a bit yet.
Some of this is also project management. I've got the Rover in daily use and there are some jobs that have been neglected - nothing serious - that bug me, I still haven't put the new front shocks on, for example. The Princess is incredibly close to an MoT and I'd like to see that done this year, so that's my main project focus. The Renault can therefore wait. Any money I spend on the Renault at the moment has to be pulled away from expenses on the other two, for the Princess that means eating into the funds for insurance, MoT and VED since it's not old enough to be exempt.
Essentially, what I'm now doing is playing it safe with the Renault. I don't want to mess things up a second time due to inexperience with the engine rebuild and I'm not in a rush. I'm understanding and accepting my limitations and not pushing them for once.
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Oct 17, 2016 22:08:44 GMT
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Good call, machine shops know what they are measuring and can spot issues easily with the right tools and experience. You could try measuring and finding out, but then you still need to get it fixed and the money spent on tools could have gone on a regrind etc. Now heal up & get that Princess finished
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Agreed, I think it's wise to focus your attention on a goal that is more easily achievable in the time frame and keeps cost down. Will also probably be a major mojo boost when you get that Princess MOT-ed!!
I must have missed what happened to your foot...anyway, take care!
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Oct 25, 2016 16:19:50 GMT
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I may repeat myself a bit, I'm not sure where I am on various fora I update so here's a brief recap: Hydragas pump bodge resulted in me dropping the suspension half an inch by accident and then the pump stopped working. Pump is currently in bits while Mike gets new stuff to make it work again so we can lift the car back up. Awkwardly, that now means the car is stuck with arches on the tyres again. Headlights were earthing through the throttle cable for some reason. This was resolved by checking and fitting good new earths to the new headlights, courtesy of my brother and Mike, and now the headlights work fine. Weirdly, after fixing the headlights and doing nothing else, we went to start the car to run it for a bit to put some charge back in the battery (we'd had lights on and off for a while testing stuff) and it wouldn't start. Even stranger, the handbrake warning light was on with no key in the ignition but would extinguish if you release the handbrake. Choke and oil pressure lights came on as normal with the ignition but turning the key to start the car just resulted in those and the handbrake light going out and nothing else. The interior light wouldn't operate at all. No fuses blown, no bulbs blown. The car was, effectively, dead. A few days and much headscratching later it was determined the problem must be in the dashboard part of the wiring as it was the only part that hadn't been tidied and debodged. Today, just to see if it would, I put the key in the ignition and the car started fine, perfectly normally, and all electrical functions were restored. I didn't fix anything or inspect anything, just literally put the key in the ignition and started the car. I came to the conclusion the car must be haunted. Then my brother pointed out some electrical tape on one of the ignition wires so we unwrapped that to see what was going on and in this blurry picture you can see that there's a split in the casing of the white wire with bare wires exposed at the kink. Although these were insulated from the rest of the wiring by the tape, this could in fact be a broken wire offering a poor connection so it will be repaired. It's possible this was used as a live feed for a radio or the old tape deck that was in the car when I got it. The other small bit of news was that I found an indicator flasher relay that I believe to be the correct sort to replace the later 90s Nissan one that was bodged in by a previous owner. Plug and play at least and when I have the dashboard plugged back in I'll be able to check that. More updates when I have them.
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Good to see things are still going. That Lucas box reminds me that I need to source a replacement Lucas box for the Cressida.
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Oct 26, 2016 11:56:46 GMT
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Keep the updates coming An idea for the Renault in the future - I got a good result from my local engineering shop in the past. Gave them 2 dead part stripped engines, they picked the best bits and rebuilt as 1 decent engine. Might be worth asking around? I used Rosamund rebores @ Blyth and recommend them for retro stuff! Cracked insulation on the ignition wire looks like it's had a scotch lock there in the past, like you say maybe to tap a radio supply or similar. Fog lights. It's sensible to get it legal first, gives you time to find something you like. Small and round feels right but not sure where you could fit. Or single rectangular with very rounded ends on the boot - matching shape high level brake light near the roof?
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Oct 26, 2016 14:47:33 GMT
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The current fogs don't look so bad when the rear plate is on the car, if anything they make sense of it visually. We'll see, there's plenty of fog light options, even tiny modern ones for that ultra hidden look. I've got a period looking sticks-to-the-screen high level brake to go in, not a big job, fits nicely at the bottom of the screen which is about eye line for other drivers.
With the Renault engine I am keeping an eye out online for any that might come up but so far no dice. It needs to be so cheap that nothing is really coming up in my price range once collection/delivery is factored in so I'm as well sticking with the lump I've got and putting new bits in it if need be. I'm still hoping it just needs a crank grind and oversized bearings to sort it out, there's nothing wrong with the top end of it bar the pushrods I need to knock straight again. Should really get a picture of those pushrods to show how not-bad they are actually. I'll keep Rosamund in mind and add them to the very short list of companies we've found that are willing to do any engine work, I reckon it takes us up to three, maybe four.
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Its all very quiet Angyl, must be due a mega update by now?
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