vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 29, 2022 17:22:14 GMT
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blackpopracing: That makes more sense. Herp to the derp over here, my brain was tired. glenanderson: I did have a picture and several other reference images but I appear to have put them Somewhere Safe. It looks just like the connector block on the side of the voltage regulator, quite chunky, and should bolt down with three bolts along the length of it. Not a complicated or fancy thing but something modern would be very obviously 'wrong' looking, even if it did the same job. It doesn't have a cover of any sort either. They tend to crack when the screws are overtightened, apparently, which is why they're so often missing. --- Another brief update for you with this one. The dashboard is fully wired up, it was not a joyful experience, but it is done. The new bulb holders didn't stay put in the instrument panel, and the upper bulb holders were wired in a way that wasn't that easy to make use of, so I fitted the original bulb holders instead which are known to be good and stay in place and that made wiring things up a lot easier. When I first started the job I wouldn't have been confident enough to do that, but now I understand better what I'm looking at, it made sense and the hardest bit was battling with my cheap soldering iron. That means the new harness has the old bulb holders on it now. On the plus side of rewiring the bulb holders, it gave me a redundant piece of wiring that I could then use for the time clock, so that's wired up and ready to go now and I really hope it does, I know these sorts of clocks don't always work sadly. I have a shopping list for hopefully all the connectors I need now, including sizes, and a shopping list for all the wiring I need that isn't provided with the new harness. Once I've got those I can get the lights, horns, wiper motor switch, and brake light switch properly connected. I only have two wires I don't know the purpose of. One is a yellow-black with a plastic sheath and there's nothing electrical in the area it goes to that isn't already connected. The other is the long length of black-white that also has a plastic sheath that doesn't correlate with anything in the car or on the diagram. The plastic sheath suggests these should be on the outside of the car, or the underside. However, since all the things on the car are now connected appropriately and these wires are left over, I'm really not sure what they're for. For now I'll just finish connecting everything, make sure everything works, and if those wires are still left over then I'll just not fit the black-white (it has no terminals on it, and is separate to the main harness), and I'll make sure the end of the yellow-black is capped off so it's not going to be a fire hazard or similar. The yellow-black could be for an inspection lamp, I've seen one photo of a Lanchester with one fitted, and it was in about the same place this wire goes to. As a happy little bonus, next to the washer jet push there's two screw holes in the underside of the dashboard which are perfectly placed to hold a bracket for the power socket. I've also got a bunch of old cigarette lighters a neighbour gave me and I'm hoping one is a similar design to the washer jet push so that it doesn't stand out as much as the modern rubbery looking one. Now just a case of waiting on parts arriving so I can finish the job.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Maestro update for you since it's video day here. It's all about tyres.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Tyres are important. When I got the car it came to me on some tyres that I mostly chose not to look at because I knew I was going to be putting new ones on as soon as I had everything sorted out. I held off until I had a full set of spare steels and could find the tyres I wanted in the size I wanted at a price I could afford. That meant it wasn't until June that I got them, six months after buying the car. Part of this wait was job prioritising, there were so many other things I needed to sort out on the car to make it tolerable to drive and the tyres that were on weren't giving me any scary moments so I knew I had time. There were no obvious defects, the tread looked good, etc. so I just let sleeping dogs lie. Eventually I found the Uniroyal Rain Experts I wanted in the size I needed and Peter had provided a full set of steels in the big parts haul which meant I wouldn't have to worry about the tyre place jacking the car up in the wrong place, or putting the wheel nuts on at a million torques. So, what do all those markings on the side of the tyre mean? Here's a handy infographic. Now you know. One important detail you should know on your tyres is the age. The recommendation is to not drive on tyres that are over ten years old because they start to fail about this age, something the Maestro did bear out as I'll come to in a bit. If your tyres are so old there is no date code, they are now museum pieces. If you have a date code that's only three digits long they were made in the last century and are really only for show. You want tyres with a four digit code, like this. So let's assume you have tyres that are at least on a four digit date code, the next thing to check is the quantity and condition of the tread. The tread on this tyre which is on one of the spare steels is actually pretty substantial and in reasonable looking condition for a used tyre. The sidewall, however, not so much. Those cracks are probably caused by the tyre being flat while it was on the car, uv damage and deformity of the rubber over a long period of time has made the rubber degrade. Damage like this can lead to blowouts, so a tyre like this is only fit for rolling a car around while it's being worked on and should never be used on the road. What's the date code on this one then? Ah, 2001. That's a 20 year old tyre (at the time of recording) so very much past its use by date. By the time I'd got everything together for the new tyres, the ones on the car were starting to worry me a bit in the wet, especially on adverse camber where the car would feel a bit squirrely if the conditions were just so. Now I had new tyres, I could look at the old ones properly. For some reason, the ones on the front have the sidewalls scrubbed almost smooth. I can only assume the first owner was parking by feel with the front tyres to manage to do this. I'd also noticed after a short run on the motorway that tiny cracks had started to appear all over the tyres, especially in the treads. Definitely time for these to go. One trek to the local tyre place and they had the new tyres on the spare steels, and the ancient tyres pulled off them and disposed of. Balanced with significantly less weights than either set of steels I have, and ready to go back on the car. I like that you can get a full set of wheels in the boot of the Maestro and still keep the seat up and the parcel shelf in. New tyres always make a car look better, nice fresh black rubber draws the eye away from the less than perfect bits. Let's have a look at what came off then. Those front tyres are both scrubbed smooth so I didn't know what brand they were until I got them off the car. Flipping them over I find the brand on the back. Good old Runway Enduros, not the best tyre in the world, not the worst. Date on these is 2010, so 11 year old tyres at the time of recording. Remember how I said tyres are good until about ten years old and then they start to go bad? Look at what's happening to the tread on these. The tread is cracking and breaking up and tiny cracks are appearing in the tread itself. Funnily enough, these tyres are perfectly legal and would probably soldier on like this for quite a while. These will be fine as yard rollers, which is exactly what I'll use them for should I ever need to for any reason, but they shouldn't see the road again. The tyres on the back are a bit newer, and a different make. It looks like the car had tyres replaced in pairs only when it absolutely needed them and not a moment sooner which is pretty normal for this sort of car. One thing I did notice is that the rear tyres and the spare are the same make and from 2012/13 and while one looks almost new (and has become the spare since at 9 years old and being kept out of sunlight it should be fine for a couple more years yet), the other two are badly worn. When I took the spare out of the boot to check the condition, just to be sure I had a reasonable spare tyre, I was pretty surprised someone had even bothered to put it in the car. It was well on its way to being bald. Happily, none of these problem tyres are a problem any longer. The abnormal wear is caused by a tracking issue, one that I've since had resolved but haven't released the video for yet, so I'm not getting that abnormal wear on the new tyres. As in the video, I would urge you to check the condition of your tyres if it's not something you do regularly anyway. Problems with tyres can develop pretty quickly, especially when they're getting to or past the ten year mark. Fitting new tyres, or good quality part worns, is well worth it, especially in the colder and wetter months when grip isn't so readily available. Remember, tyres are the only thing keeping your car on the road so they're pretty important for your safety and your driving enjoyment.
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Unless regs have changed the date used to be 7 years. I'd not want a tyre more than 7 years old on my cars, except as a get you home spare only.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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I'd always been told ten, mind you I'd also never checked and I do try and make sure my tyres are less than five.
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There are no regs just guidelines which differ between suppliers, reality is it depends on how the tyre is stored and used, 10 years is probably an absolute max, if you leave it in the sun they might well start to crack after 5 though.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,318
Club RR Member Number: 64
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The tyres on my Austin are at least forty years old. Probably nearer fifty. They scare the bejesus out of me. At north of £200 each though, they will be the very last things I buy for it.
On lorries and busses, front (and any other steering axle) tyres need to be less than 10 years old to pass the MoT now.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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you'll just have to make sure you drive it as much as possible when it's done to get your money's worth out of it. Tyres haven't been getting any cheaper either, it's now £65 a corner for the Princess and I do need to get another pair because of the sidewall puncture I had and wanting the spare to match.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Fame! Kinda. Always brings me joy to know other people got excited enough by the Princess to tag a picture and share it on the social medias, especially if they're nice about it because she doesn't look her best just at the moment.
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I saw something the other day that made me think of this. The Australian variant of that engine appears to use a cast iron thermostat housing. Might be an avenue to explore? Phil There's only really one manufacturer that I'm aware of, and having a quick look I'm pretty sure they don't have what you want anyway. www.kcautoproducts.com/housings2/housingsleyland.html
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Feb 15, 2022 15:18:23 GMT
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Short vid this week.
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Feb 16, 2022 10:35:05 GMT
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Always great to see your update videos... Superb!!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Getting a new radiator fitted and playing the parts lottery with fan switches this time.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 28, 2022 16:08:28 GMT
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I took a couple of weeks off the Youtube updates and Things in general. I needed to get recharged and catch up. The war in Ukraine has been hitting the part of the art community I'm in pretty badly with various Russian artists having totally vanished, and fellow artists in Poland understandably distracted and worried about their neighbours. I don't personally know anyone in Ukraine (as far as I'm aware), but I do know some folks in neighbouring countries so there's a lot of fear and anger being shared right now. That and the issues in our own country, of course, and how that's affecting friends and loved ones much nearer our own front door. I feel a lot of guilt for the good fortune I'm experiencing in my life at the moment, even though I know it's not always been that way for me. I could push myself into hardship to help others and I feel selfish for not doing so, even though I realistically have nothing to feel guilty about.
The nature of my work as entertainer and artist felt somehow frivolous given the larger issues that were filling everyone's mind. I couldn't maintain a facade of being unaffected and producing the happy little distractions for people and so I decided not to for a bit. However, it became clear that people missed the content as it was a much needed diversion and I realised that there was very little I could do about the world around me except to speak up about it, to condemn the actions of Putin, Johnson, and their ilk, and so that's what I shall continue to do.
All this is to say there's a new Maestro video coming out tomorrow at 3pm as per the usual schedule and there will be a write up for the last one arriving as soon as I have the head space to sit down and compose it.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,318
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Mar 28, 2022 18:01:15 GMT
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❤️
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 29, 2022 14:26:15 GMT
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Video time.
Write up on this and the previous video will happen when they do, hopefully sooner rather than later.
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Mar 31, 2022 10:35:09 GMT
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the princess was on facebook group "cars you don't see anymore" i was going to screengrab it but by coincidence got banned in between there and here.
i do have a habit of calling out those boring contrarians, you know people being deliberately apathetic to seem edgy or cool. but genuinely hadnt interacted with the group in months.... meh
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 31, 2022 16:46:12 GMT
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Well, the Princess is not my favourite thing as of today as it happens. It's gone through about a litre of oil in about 400 miles (actually probably less miles than that since I hadn't noticed it consuming much until today), and it's putting exhaust in the coolant again. Oil is coming out the exhaust too. That'll be the head gasket gone again and possibly the piston rings too.
Before anyone does suggest, I am NOT attempting to fix this myself. I've done enough on this engine, I'm not cut out for this side of the work so I'm not doing it. I don't enjoy engine work, I never have, and I doubt I ever will. General maintenance I'm okay with, rebuilding and repairing not so much.
What I am going to do is pull the engine and gearbox out of the car and get SOMEONE ELSE to rebuild it. I've got new piston rings and gaskets that I haven't installed so hopefully that will help. However, I have absolutely no idea who to take the engine to, I don't know anyone that would be willing to work on a boring old O-series, and I have no idea of the cost. It's certainly going to cost more than it's "worth" to do, everything does on this car, but I like this car very much so it will get done by someone, somewhere, at some point.
On the plus side, pulling the engine and gearbox will make painting the engine bay a lot easier.
I'm not going to buy another engine either. It's going to be just as much work to buy another O series and have that inspected/rebuilt as it is the one I've got (providing it's not so worn out it can't be fixed), so we'll sort the one I've got.
Attention will shift to the Maestro. I just need a long enough spell of dry weather and free time to combine so I can finish the welding and get it MoT'd. As far as I'm aware, the welding is the only thing it needs for it to pass an MoT, it's actually in pretty good order overall.
Engine woes aside, the Princess really only needs the paint to be sorted out, something which I'm again just waiting on a decent spell of weather and free time to actually do since I've got all the materials ready to go. The Princess also isn't undriveable for the majority of stuff I need to do, it's not overheating and, oil consumption aside, doesn't behave like anything is wrong when you're on the road with it. So I've at least got transport for a little bit for local errands while I get the Maestro sorted out.
It's a test of my patience, that's for sure. I should probably sack it off, but I don't want to, I like this car a lot, I just wish the engine wasn't so rubbish.
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Mar 31, 2022 19:52:31 GMT
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Would the maestro engine fit in the princess..............
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,265
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 31, 2022 20:12:44 GMT
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With enough determination, I'm sure it would, but it's not exactly that fast with the 1700, I doubt it'd be any more fun with the 1300... unless I turbo'd it...
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