vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
|
That might be the easiest solution yet. I shall drop you a PM.
|
|
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
|
In other news, I have ended my period of procrastination over the Maestro headlining and actually done it... no photos of that today, I need to edit the video before I can do that. I've also had a go at sticking the mirror on the windscreen where it should be rather than the bracket it had been screwed to, and in turn was screwed to the header rail damaging the headlining board, which is a first for me. I'm using Stass double sided tape which I've found is unreasonably strong for sticking things to my office walls so I'm hoping it's up to the task here. Only trouble is it needs a long time to set, and I can't be sat in the Maestro for several hours holding the mirror so it was duct tape to the rescue. I'll know tomorrow if it's actually worked. Before attaching the mirror, I did take the car for a pootle to find out how much the recovered headlining improved sound quality. Previously, the headlining was just the formed board painted white, all the foam and fabric had been stripped off and the board painted before I got the car. The noise improvement genuinely surprised me, lots of minor little rattles and squeaks are gone and the interior feels more plush and has that sort of dead recording-room feel, in a good way. New foam in the sunvisors made them feel a lot nicer to use too. Anyway, there will be picture updates on all this at a later date, for now you'll just have to imagine I did a really nice job.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
is suprising the difference a headlining makes! i am aware there is a special glue available formulated for fitting interior mirrors available from most motor factors, am sure my friends have used it after failing with normal super glue and had good results! no idea what it was but know it was designed for the specific job! still have a couple of your vids to catch up on!
|
|
 2006 Audi A3 2003 Fusion 2 looking for a project....
|
|
|
|
|
is suprising the difference a headlining makes! i am aware there is a special glue available formulated for fitting interior mirrors available from most motor factors, am sure my friends have used it after failing with normal super glue and had good results! no idea what it was but know it was designed for the specific job! still have a couple of your vids to catch up on! Mirrors fall off screens because the mirror mounting pad is much more rigid than the glass. The successful methods use a flexible glue(which superglue isn't) or some flexible material between the pad and the screen.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
3M do a super sticky thick padded tape, I learned about it here I think. Damned if I can recall exactly what it is, and it's dear, but flippin good.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
|
Today went for a pootle, sought out some rough local roads, hit some nasty potholes and over some speed bumps and the mirror stayed put. I even managed to adjust the mirror several times without it coming off in my hand. Stass tape, at least for now, seems to do the trick. I did see a few interesting things and since I actually had the camera strapped in to the car even got some stuff on camera. Not very well, like, my camera mount is the seatbelt strapping my tripod in to the passenger seat after all, but there's one or two bits that are usable from the run out. Perhaps the most surprising thing I saw was a 90s Mazda 323, the one with the skinny headlights, something I couldn't remember the last time I'd seen an example of in the wild. SilverMachine: next week's video is a Maestro one so that's the best playlist to get caught up on if you want to keep with the story flow  Thanks for tuning in too, I always appreciate it. Here's a picture, since people like pictures, of some of the work I've been doing recently.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
a 1948 ld10 has appeared on t ebay in london, you have probably spotted it? apparently garaged for 20+years. only one pic and front wings look quite crispy.... is currently 433 with 12 bidders. not that you want another... but possibly provide a market for some of your spares! if you hadnt seen it thought you might like to see another one had popped up! looking forward to the maestro update! think i have a couple more to catch up on tho! btw uhu is good for attaching plastics to metal! audi handbrake handle and replacement seat levers have been solid since december! wasnt wanting to adhere the plastic bracket back onto the parcel shelf as good tho...
|
|
 2006 Audi A3 2003 Fusion 2 looking for a project....
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
Jun 10, 2023 12:51:54 GMT |
I'm amazed people are bidding on that one in London, the listing is terrible. Good luck to whoever takes it on, for whatever reason they're getting it. I tried to use this tool, recommended as being suitable for removing bonded screens. I need to remove the rear screen from the donor tailgate and the tailgate on the car so that I can salvage some repair sections and eliminate some rust. It did not go well. So now the flange I need to salvage is covered in redneck diamonds and ancient sealant and is going to be an absolute chore to remove. I can't really see a straightforward way of doing this job since it has to be done outdoors if I do it. Ideally, I'd have another tailgate to fit while I repaired the original, that way I could keep the car secure and weatherproof. I also have no idea how to safely remove a bonded screen. The rust repair itself should be fairly straightforward, it's just removal and refitting of the glass that's making it harder than it should be.
|
|
|
|
79cord
Posted a lot
 
Posts: 2,574
|
|
|
I've ended up laboriously & patiently cutting from the inside with an 18mm snap-off utility knife & plenty of spare blades. (Needs a good one with steel blade guide). Don't expect to get through it in one go, just lots of relatively shallow cuts along it until it is done. Can be difficult to get into corners. Will cut the remaining adhesive off the panel fairly easily. I did buy & try one of those tools too, when removing a windscreen which didn't go great either, but at least that was cracked & rubbish anyway. Last time I made the mistake of cutting close to the glass rather than the body when removing the rear 1/4 glass from my Civic, cutting off the retaining edge of the seal wrapped around the edge of the glass before it was glued in place, which might make retaining that seal more difficult, but at least got both out intact, & a Crx & Prelude rear windscreens before that. This one had the added bonus of screw-in plastic retainers to suppliment glass adhesive hidden under the very securely clipped in steel trims over-molded with vinyl. At least glass was big enough to sit in hatch opening with plastic sheet below to 'seal' the rest of the opening while I did this.
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 12, 2023 12:10:21 GMT by 79cord
|
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2023 13:07:02 GMT |
i think the only thing that works removing bonded glass is a cheesewire? two person job on a front screen! but then you would still have to sort out the rubber stuck to the glass, possibly try one of those rubber wheels that removes adhesives when attached to a drill or grinder? or if your planning painting it anyway a flap disc but time consuming and messy!
|
|
 2006 Audi A3 2003 Fusion 2 looking for a project....
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
Jun 13, 2023 15:16:41 GMT |
I think 79cord 's approach is likely the only way I can DIY it, I'm just not sure I've got a strong enough blade with a long enough reach to cut through the sealant. I did get the bulk of the old sealant off the donor tailgate with a Stanley blade and some patience, the recent hot weather has actually helped with that since it softened the sealant somewhat. Wire wheel should clean off the gunk on the metal side, no idea how to get it safely off the glass side since Ideally I need to retain the plastic (or hard rubber? I'm not sure which it is) trim that fits to the glass before the glass is bonded in the hole. I do understand why things are made this way, it's a lot faster to put it all together than the old style rubber seals, it's just a lot harder to repair when the car is well past its expected lifespan. --- In other news, here's the latest Maestro video.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2023 18:45:22 GMT |
Bonded glass is used as the glass becomes a structural item in modern cars.
|
|
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
Jun 13, 2023 19:05:37 GMT |
Glass is a weird material.
|
|
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
Jun 14, 2023 15:55:19 GMT |
Before you judge me, remember I'm the person that used cake tins for light buckets successfully, so this bit of skip diving is perfectly normal. What you see there is a solid steel satellite dish, not a perforated mesh one. That bit is important. I've already been warned the paint is going to be a nightmare to remove and that's okay, I'll deal with that when I have to deal with that. This one has the added bonus of a chunk of thick wall galvanised steel tube which should make for an excellent dolly when I need to make long curved things like sills. But what's the rest for? Well, some time ago I had a chance encounter with some masking paper and it gave me an idea. Bubble skirts. This is the car that taste forgot and I feel like with the Galaxie rear lights it's a bad style choice that should look right on this particular car. It won't look cool and that's fine, I don't care for cool. It will just look right alongside the other modifications.
Now if I can just find someone throwing away a rear window louvre of the right dimensions we'll be golden.
|
|
|
|
75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 993
Club RR Member Number: 181
|
|
Jun 14, 2023 19:21:40 GMT |
for now you'll just have to imagine I did a really nice job. This made me chuckle, well written. I used the mirror applicant glue for the quarterlight locks on my Lada when i had it, did not last in the slightest. Maybe better with a mirror that'd be fiddled with less, but if your tape is working I'd (wait for the pun) stick with that... aplogies
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2023 20:27:17 GMT |
When I broke the rear screen on the street ka hardtop I found my dewalt multi tool with a saw blade easily cut the sealer away, from the body.
|
|
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
Jun 22, 2023 11:24:24 GMT |
It is too hot to do much of anything so I've been nibbling away at what I can outdoors and making small progress. Amongst today's efforts were chopping up what's left of the donor chassis and putting some of that out for scrap and removing the ugly lump of filler from the front wing of the good Lanchester. Now the filler and the small dent in the return lip that was sticking out won't snag on clothes as you squidge past the car to get it out of the garage. Dressed the worst of the dents out so it's more the proper shape and then gave it some red primer and black enamel to blend it a bit better than the shiny steel. Now instead of looking like obvious damage, it just looks like the rest of the knocks and dents around the car so that's good enough for me. No welding required here either, which was a relief.
|
|
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,831
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
|
Jun 22, 2023 11:34:43 GMT |
Agreed. So much better to be able to see the damage has been attended to in a sound and workmanlike fashion than hidden under a ton of pug and a glossy coat of paint.
|
|
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,867
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
Jun 26, 2023 10:44:47 GMT |
Write up time for part 2 of repairing the rear wheel arch on the passenger side of the Maestro. If there was a mistake you could make on a job, and a thing that could go wrong, it did. In the previous episode you saw that the welder shat the bed so to resolve this after asking about on the forums it was determined the quickest and easiest solution would be to install a Euro torch. Because I'd got a universal kit, it required a little bit of modification and that's totally to be expected, universal kits are always going to be a compromise and this one came with decent instructions. Had to trim a bit of the screw thread off so it would fit, and trim down the brass wire guide insert first. Also installed the bicycle brake cable sheath to serve as a replacement wire guide for the one that had melted. Made sure to install the washers for the torch as instructed and hadn't realised at this point that I'd trimmed the brass guide tube too short. I'd misunderstood the instructions for where the tip of the brass tube would fit and had trimmed it far too short, the main reason for this is that it was thicker than the original guide tube so wouldn't sit nicely in the groove on the clamp next to the wire feed wheel and I second guessed myself. Unaware of that problem, I carried on and encountered my first proper issue which is that the plastic brace piece doesn't actually fit the front of this welder since it requires a vertical face for the mount and this one doesn't have that. The original brace didn't fit over the Euro torch so I couldn't use that either. I would have to figure something out to pack it with and I did try various options though none really satisfied. Reassembly was a bit of a pain. I'd had the front panel off the welder to clean it and knock out a puncture wound since it felt the right thing to do given I was installing new parts. Unfortunately that's when I learned there was only just enough wire to reach these switch clamps and every time anything moved a little bit, they pulled out. I got there in the end but it was a... job. All back together and ready to test. Initially it seemed to work pretty good and then I found out why the length of that brass guide tube was so important. I realigned it so it didn't birds nest inside the welder and gave myself a new problem... The brass tube was just a tiny bit too short leaving a little gap between the Euro torch and the socket. This meant any time the wire feed wasn't perfect, like when you get a blob of weld on the end of the tip because you're welding in awkward places, the wire just backed up inside the torch. This was very frustrating. To the credit of the welding torch supplier they sent out a new brass tube free of charge which I then trimmed and fitted correctly, resolving this issue. Now I had a fully working welder again, it was time to remove my composite wheel arch that I definitely hadn't been driving around with or had cleverly hidden in the editing and recording of the Double Trouble video where I compared this Maestro to my friend Pete's far nicer red Maestro. Experience has taught me to do the least fun looking bit of welding first, so that meant the disappeared bit where the arch joins the sill. The welder was terrible. The trigger kept sticking and the more I welded the worse it got. This meant that it just wouldn't stop feeding wire or gas and trying to control that in a tight space where you want to weld a very specific area meant this was a frustrating lesson in anger management. The welds also ended up looking like absolute poop. I did dismantle the torch handle to see if it was just a plastic flashing or mould issue, sometimes you can just scrap a mould line off and things are fine. The odd thing was that everything moved perfectly fine, the switch was good and even though I did trim a little off some edges that looked to be chafing the problem persisted. The more you welded the worse it got and I never figured out why. Oh well, seam sealer to rescue. Then I found out my next mistake. I'd followed the shape of the filler and rot that was the former inner arch. Rookie error. I had offered the outer arch up at some point in the process and totally missed that it didn't actually line up properly at all, probably because there wasn't really much of anything for reference points. I edited out my reaction to this discovery. Of course, I'd also cut out the original outer wing to the shape of the repair panel that I'd aligned to the incorrect inner arch. There's another problem because now the hole is bigger than my repair panel. I tacked the repair panel in place to show just how far out I was. More editing required to keep things family friendly. On the bright side, I hadn't cut through the wiring that goes behind here or set any interior trim on fire or got welder splatter on the glass. You've got to look at the mistakes you didn't make on a day like this. I could have gone out and bought another replacement torch in the original style for the welder or I could use my savings and invest in a really good welder instead. In a rare moment of spending money, I went with the latter. The next episode goes live tomorrow at 3pm, so watch this space and the Youtube channel for that. I do all this nonsense so you don't have to.
|
|
|
|