vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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I will, just not yet. I'll get the car running on a remote fuel supply (jerry can in the boot) and once I know it runs I'll bolt all the spare bits back on and then, and only then, will I drop and clean out the tank. Space and time is at a premium and at the moment the Renault is taking up rather more space than I want it to while it's in bits.
Good tip on the spray gun filter too, I shall check that out.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Looking at your sender, I think you'll have no trouble finding a replacement filter element. It looks like most sender tubes of the era are the same diameter. I think you'd be able to find something easily enough. Ford capri filter element springs to mind. Was easily available and fit my Granada as well, even though officially the filter element for my granada was unavailable...
I'd go see what your motor factors has in stock....
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Right chaps, important update.
The Renault ran.
Then it didn't. The problem is the carburettor. I've got fuel, spark, compression and combustion and the car will run but only if you put fuel directly in the carb, bypassing the important twiddly bits of the carb. I do have a rebuilt kit coming in the post so I can get the carburettor sorted out properly. Until then, I'm bolting stuff back on because, fundamentally, it is all working now.
Apart from the fuel gauge.
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thebaron
Europe
Over the river, heading out of town
Posts: 1,659 
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Eeeh gads....great stuff.
You are getting there.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Report in full then on this.
I knew it couldn't be much stopping the car running so before Mike got back from the unit with extra tools, I hooked up a jerry can of fuel by the front wheel below the pump to see if the pump could pump fuel and it can, very well. I double checked for spark at the sparks which I'm getting and I already knew I was getting decent compression. All the ingredients were in place so it should run.
After a few attempts to start fuel had got all the way up to the carb but it clearly wasn't getting further. When Mike returned, we blew the main fuel line through that runs the length of the sill and it spat a few bits of sandy stuff out and then just fuel vapour so that's probably clear now. I'd also got the top off the carb and found the float was free moving and still being a float and there was very little by way of sediment in the float chamber. The fuel passages I could get to without fully dismantling the carb off the car were a bit gummed up and I cleaned out what I could so fuel flow into the float chamber was now very good, but fuel flow out of it wasn't happening at all. That, we decided, was the cause of the problem.
So, we put some accelerant down the intake and attempt to start the car, which happened surprisingly willingly. However, it's virtually impossible to run a car like that so we very soon didn't have a running car again. It was, however, a moment of great joy to know that it does work and should work very well once the carb is completely cleaned up and rebuilt properly.
That means my next job is to refit the front sheet metal, put the steering rack on and connect anything that still needs connecting so the car is ready to go once the rebuild kit arrives. It's a really good place to feel like I'm at after a very long and frustrating slog.
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Last Edit: Dec 6, 2016 17:51:04 GMT by darrenh
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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My pick up is only 6mm and those are 8mm. I could make the difference up with braze but a 6mm fitting would be easier.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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It's an option. I'm still undecided on this one, I've not found exactly what I'm after yet.
Let's have some more good news.
Tyres - Full set of five, brand new, arriving from the UK.
Radiator - the German company I ordered from have found an alternative supplier when the one they had listed wasn't in stock and a new one is being delivered.
Rear screen demister switch - also in the post, coming from Spain
Carburettor rebuild kit - also in the post, coming from Croatia
New choke stop/arm - mine is pretty mangled, doesn't really work. One in the post from the Netherlands.
Everything is due to be here between the 8th and the 20th
The only thing I haven't decided on yet is the best solution for the in-tank filter. The next few days are predicted to be quite mild, for the time of year, so I should be able to crack on with quite a bit now.
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Yaaaay!!!!! lots of win!!!
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Good to hear. Not that I'm great with carbies (I learnt my trade on post 1990 toyota's, so EFI) but they seem to need everything clean for the black magic to work.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,010
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Nothing to do with black magic.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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As far as this car is concerned, I would dispute that statement. Bloody thing has fought me every step of the way. I intend to out-stubborn it.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Since I'm waiting on parts and had lots to do I didn't fancy tackling that fuel tank today. Instead, I just cracked on and got a lot sorted out. It rained last night so I was delighted to discover my headlining wasn't wet at all at the windscreen edge.   Then I just went through and bolt all the bits and pieces back together. The engine bay is a terrible looking thing, it's a right mess as standard and there's not really any way to tidy it up. Everything is back in place, even the radiator, so that I have my garage back.   That took less time than expected, especially with it being such a mild day today, so I got on and started fitting the exhaust. You don't even need to jack up the car or take off a wheel to do this which is incredibly satisfying. Front silencer in.  I haven't got the exhaust paste at home so the main pipe isn't connected yet. Popped the clamp on just so it's all in place ready to go later this week.  There's one hanger under the passenger door.  Another under the boot.  To hold up the back box, there's one hanger under the rear end. I couldn't get this to come undone as I don't have a socket or spanner large enough or anything strong enough to grip the rubber part while I undo the nut from the captive bolt.  Rear mud guards went back in. These did such a good job of keeping all the mud out of the upper reaches of the rear bodywork I thought it would be daft not to reinstall them. They're a previous owner made thing I think and just push into place and hold with friction for the most part.   I'd already refitted the face and bonnet so there wasn't much else to do. Decided to clean out all the dust and bits of rust flakes and stuff from the car being full of old parts and the like. I also removed the boot liners so they wouldn't trap what little water is coming in through the side windows and aren't at risk of being damaged. I leave the parcel shelf dropped because I don't want any more water getting on it through the rear screen which I really need to remove and reseal.  There was a lot less water coming in through the doors than usual after last night's rain so I think the seals are sort of filling out the spaces they need to now. Still not perfect, but much better. Mopped out what little water there was and all the rest of the scaff before putting the back seat up again.   In the front I tidied up and vacuumed out the talcum powder now its done its job. I am missing the return spring for the throttle pedal but I can get a new throttle cable with the spring and other fittings from Italy which might be a good idea given the condition of my current cable.  There's hardly anything left to go back on. Some side trim, the mud flaps, the front undertray and the back box. Other than that, there's a few jubilee clips to refresh and the parts I've ordered to arrive.  So yeah. Nearly there now. Just niggles to work through and parts to arrive. The front suspension has even settled nicely now the engine has been in the car for a bit.   |
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Fuel sender issue sorted too. Turns out it's the same as that in the 2CV so I've ordered one from Der Franzose for a mere £32 delivered (includes the fitting seal) which is incredibly cheap for what will be an excellent quality product as Der Franzose's stuff always is.
EDIT: Ah... misleading listing means a 2CV one doesn't work but a R4 one does. So I've sent them a message to hopeful amend the order.
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2016 21:04:26 GMT by vulgalour
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,340
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Great stuff.
What's the plan for it next? Run and preserve as-is, or paint?
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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I want to preserve it as is, as much as possible. Keep it clean and tidy and address any rust that gets too advanced, but otherwise leave it looking pretty much as it does right now. I'm not even going to paint the wheels before the new tyres go on, apart from where it might be needed to get a good seal.
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is not restoring it considered a "scene mod" now though, gotta tread carefully  |
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is not restoring it considered a "scene mod" now though, gotta tread carefully Its called " Patina Preservation" ..... |
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