djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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er yes... this is the problem when I'm rushing and not paying enough attention. To clarify, there is no temperature or oil pressure gauge. Instead there's a red light that comes on when the water has overheated and there's a red light that comes on to signify the oil pressure is wrong. When you turn the car on you get two lights, one is a red light for ignition, another is red for oil, both extinguish when cranking. All of this is as it should be on my car so there are no causes for concern. As far as I'm aware, everything is so far as it ought to be. I might hold off on more updates until the car is MoT'd so I don't end up making confusing updates but that might also mean it's a long time until I update again. Vulg, we don't always see eye-to-eye on opinions BUT I would rue the day any of my posts might put you off your updates, so please carry on. I must say I do enjoy them.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,951
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I really enjoy your updates. Please continue.... P.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,280
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Me not updating isn't me getting upset, I just think you'd all get bored of me posting "It's still not fudging working!" once a week.
I had another go today to try and figure out what's wrong as I had a few minutes spare and guess what? IT'S STILL NOT FUDGING WORKING!
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But at that point we all nod sagely and think "I feel your pain brother" because we've all been there, so collective Karma comes your way.
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74 Mk1 Escort 1360, 1971 Vauxhall Victor SL2000 Estate.
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Beer. Beer will fix it. Drink beer, enjoy. Wake up next day and try again. If it works, drink beer to celebrate, it it doesn't.....drink beer and enjoy. Repeat until it works
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,280
Club RR Member Number: 146
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The beer plan is great, I shall have to substitute it with cider The problem I'm facing lately is time. I have so little of it because I'm having a very busy period with work. Stretching myself too thin again. Luckily, there is a plan this weekend to combat this. Part of the reason I'm not getting in as much work on the Princess and Renault is simply the time issue, I'm only free in the very late evenings and a 4 mile drive away from them so that means if I want to work on them I've got a tiny 2 hour window to drive over, unlock the yard gates, the unit and the cars, do whatever I want to do before the light goes (because currently I have to work on both cars outdoors) and then lock up and drive home. Realistically, I'm only getting about 45 minutes of that 2 hours in because of all the other faff involved and I'm seriously tired lately so I'm not the sharpest pin. SO... the Renault is coming back to the house this weekend to live in the garage at home. That means I'll have covered, lit access at any point of the day or night that will take me, at worst, 10 minutes to get to and from. I'll also have access to internet so referencing information is much easier and, of course, the all important kettle or, since I don't have to do any driving to get to and from the Renault, the aforementioned cider plan. With the Renault running, I can then focus my attentions on saving for the last few pieces - sourced a radiator and tyres, just need a couple more paydays for them - and in turn, the Princess. It's one of those awkward situations where there's not actually a great deal to do on the projects but finding the time to do it is my biggest obstacle. For the first time ever, a lack of funds isn't so much of an obstacle because work has been so good this year and the current residence has done wonders for my state of mind. We will get there, I will persevere!
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+1 to most of the above suggestions, summarised as please keep the updates coming, and drink beer* to celebrate/drown your sorrows ( either is fine ) * Personal choice but i would advise beer not cider (based on many years of dedicated research in my earlier years )
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Cider works just as well I've found. Pear Cidre is exceptionally good at problem solving
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,280
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Made an attempt to tow the Renault home with the tow pole and my brother's Picasso. First issue, which I already knew about, was having no towing eyes at all anywhere on the Renault, so we used the bumper iron because that's bolted to the chassis and is the only thing the pole will attach to. Amazingly, I do not own a tow rope. Test tow around the yard went smoothly so we set off in convoy with brother in the towing car, Mike in the Renault and me behind in the Rover to provide a safe rear vehicle. The GOOD news is that the Renault's brakes work, it steers well, it rides well and looks pretty smart on the road. It genuinely turns heads in a way I've only ever seen supercars manage, which was a very pleasant surprise and quite amusing. The BAD news was that when Chompy stopped at the first junction the tow pole unhooked itself so we made it the grand total of about 500 yards. Rehitched it and put the Renault back in the unit for now because we have no safe way of towing it four miles.
I swear, it's not me, it's this car. Jobs that I've never had any problems with on other cars just become a comedy of errors with this one. We could have rehitched the pole and tried again but it's likely it would have jumped off at every junction and given that there are 3 roundabouts, two junctions and two sets of lights between the unit and home we just didn't think it worth the potential hassle or, if it really went pear shaped, risk.
So the new plan is to see if we can pin down the guy that Mike knows with a flatbed who will transport the car for about £20 or acquire a tow rope and try with that instead of a pole, though I'm not particularly keen on rope towing again, it is not a fun experience. I say 'I' rather than Mike because my brother would rather I was in the towing car as I have some experience of being towed on a rope where Mike has none at all. I can't even buy/borrow an A-frame because none of our cars have tow bars.
This weekend will either be another attempt to go through a troubleshoot the engine at the unit or it'll be getting it towed back home to troubleshoot at my leisure, which if I'm honest would be my preference at this point.
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I would recommend a cider/ lager mix with added blackcurrent when it comes to drowning your sorrows if celibrating you can use a white lightening/ Tenants Super combo with the blackcurrent.
I saw an elastic rope used for towing recently, looked quite effective, note it wasn't a KERR type rope
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You appear to have the French equivalent of a Plymouth called Christine.......
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74 Mk1 Escort 1360, 1971 Vauxhall Victor SL2000 Estate.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,280
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Right... actual proper news this time rather than a post full of fail. Scaryoldcortina paid a visit and kindly donated some of his time and experience to get to the bottom of two issues and managed to figure out why I couldn't get the Princess or the Renault to run.
Princess was very easy when he got the timing light out, shone it on the relevant bits and discovered that in my frustration I'd muddled up the plug order and got the distributor way off where it should be. A quick replug and wiggle and she's running again, yay! The core problem that caused the running issues in the first place is the brand new condenser that's done all of 1 mile at the most is toast. This appears to be a very common problem with new condensers but fitting a relevant electric component from Maplin can resolve this issue. The clutch is also more than ready, the release bearing sounds like its finally imploded. I have new clutch kit to go so that's not really an issue.
The Renault was more difficult. We ended up taking the rocker cover off - which involves disconnecting the gear selector bar and jiggling lots of stuff about - after SOC had gone through a few other things, like there now only being compression on 4 and not on 1, 2 or 3. Once the cover was off we were immediately aware of two pushrods being unseated and one being bent. With the pushrods removed and checked, three are very slightly curved and one is bent, all are able to be straightened with care, I've been given instructions of how to do this by SOC so as to avoid damaging them.
With the pushrods out and the rockers and rocker bar removed it was then immediately clear to SOC that the mechanical timing was off. Frustratingly that's an engine out job because it's the only way to get to the timing chain which is right up against the bulkhead with zero access. A recheck of the cylinders proved that we actually had compression across all four without the pushrods in and that there was more than enough oil pressure.
So... a bit up and down with that. I'm elated that the Princess is now running, after a fashion, and feel much happier about the work I've got ahead of me there. I'm a bit annoyed about the mistake with the Renault engine but also relieved that no serious damage has been done and it's moderately easy to resolve. The most annoying thing with the Renault is that to re-time it correctly is a fairly quick job but getting the engine in and out of the car is not.
Watch this space, at any rate. I know better what I'm doing now and have a someone local I now know I can shout HELP at if I really get unstuck or if I'm at all unsure about anything. That in itself is worth a lot.
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See, I told you, Karma. Every garage should have a SOC on standby. (He didn't change into his overalls in a phone box like Superman by any chance?)
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74 Mk1 Escort 1360, 1971 Vauxhall Victor SL2000 Estate.
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SOC to the diagnostic rescue! Did you ask him to come back to the board?
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,280
Club RR Member Number: 146
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SOC works so fast he doesn't need overalls, the dirt and grime isn't given a chance to stick! I didn't ask him to return to the board, I hadn't realised he'd left. That's his own business, whatever his reasons. Lovely guy though, friendly and funny and able to teach without making you feel stupid. 10/10, would bother again.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,280
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Today I was going to take the engine out to sort out the static timing issue. Taking the engine out of this car is pretty involved and would take me quite a long time. However, cutting an access hole in the bulkhead isn't and since this car is on a separate chassis it doesn't cause any structural issues, really. I can always weld the metal back in too and with how long it was going to take me to pull the engine out that option is STILL preferable to me. What I'll actually do is create a removable panel for this section with a seal to keep things where they need to be kept. Previously, Scaryoldcortina had been and helped figure out what was going on so the engine looked like this. With the access panel made inside the car, I could get to all the bolts that hold on the timing chain cover and remove it. This is actually quite easy to deal with now, I can see what things are doing inside the car and don't have to find somewhere to put the engine while I work on it. [img src=" i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/volksangyl/Renault%206TL/20160807-02.jpg"] With the chain attached, the crankshaft and camshaft turn together with no problem on the key but you cannot turn the engine by hand. I even tried using some force with a breaker bar on the sprocket nut but no go. I didn't check the timing because I couldn't get things rotated to the point they need to be so moved on and removed the chain and tensioner to see if the crankshaft and camshaft would rotate freely. The camshaft does turn very smoothly when the chain is not attached, both from the sprocket end and with the water pump pulley, which you can do by hand with no real effort. The crankshaft won't turn by hand at all. You can put a bolt in the end of the sprocket to turn it, but even with the breaker bar I wasn't getting any movement and didn't want to force it. However, as soon as you flick the key in the ignition it rotates freely and without any horrible noises. The starter motor does not struggle to turn the engine over. I did try to rock the car in gear to rotate the crankshaft to the relevant timing position but just didn't have the strength to do it (not much sleep and hurting my arm this morning, probably not helping me there), even with Mike helping. You can't get the timing mark in the right place with the starter because it always jumps just past where you need it, we did try that several times to no avail. I don't know enough about this sort of work to diagnose the potential problem beyond suspecting it's something to do with the crankshaft being too tight even though that was done to the torque settings listed in the book for the 1181 engine, which this one is. There's oil everywhere and the crankshaft and bearings were installed with assembly lube as directed by people who know better than me so I don't believe the crankshaft is stuck, just tight. What's frustrating is that before putting the engine in the car you COULD turn the whole thing by hand from the crankshaft and the camshaft, that you now can't is baffling to me. --- So I quizzed SOC again and the autoshite community at large. Previously early in the engine's rebuild, a bearing did spin. I couldn't find anyone able to provide replacements for this particular engine so it was all buttoned up in the hope it would be okay. Now, since the engine appears to have got tighter the more it's been turned over, it seems likely that a bearing has spun again, which isn't good news because that puts the brakes on this project indefinitely if it has. If I'm lucky, it's just that a bearing is slightly too tight and it's just moving everything has possibly moved some dirt there and it's making the crankshaft tighter than it ought to be. The only way I'll know for certain is by draining the oil, dropping the sump and having a look. I should be able to do that without removing the engine, from memory the sump is accessible with the engine in the car. As for when I'll do this I don't know, I haven't a great deal of car time available and I sacrificed my time to replace the front shocks on the Rover this weekend in favour of trying to get to the bottom of the Renault's issues.
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Is it possible to try rotating the flywheel with a screwdriver in place if the starter motor?
Thinking logically when you were trying to turn it over with the chain off and the rockers off it could well be you just have a lot of compression - none of the valves are going to open to release it.
Given that when you assembled the bottom end it was fine I think it's unlikely to have spun the shell again.
Rocking it back and forth in gear is awkward too
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Did you take the spark plugs out before trying to turn the engine over? As said above this might be your issue. If you did not then take them out and try again. Engine should turn over easily with a breaker bar (or even a socket ratchet bar). If its still stiff then you have spun a shell. Hate to say I told you so (if this is indeed the case) but I did warn you about using old shells on a rebiuld - it's just not done.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,280
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Makes no difference with or without the plugs in and yes, I know I was warned, but I couldn't get the shells for this engine so I had to reuse them. Not what I wanted to do, but sometimes you don't have a choice.
The other possible is the starter motor is causing the problem, locking everything up when disengaged, so we're going to remove that and see if that makes any difference before dropping the sump.
I'm fully aware I've probably done this wrong, it's the first time I've done a rebuild and I wasn't expecting it to go smoothly. None of these problems are a surprise, just confusing.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,280
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Had a few minutes while on errands so stopped in at the unit and removed the starter. That's not what's jamming things so it was put back on. I bet it's spun that bearing shell again. Haven't the time to be draining the oil and removing the sump until the weekend but now I'm thinking it's going to be bearing shell shopping time which proved utterly fruitless last time so I hold out very little hope of sorting this out. There's a very, very slim chance that the bearing shells are fine and it's just that things are a bit too tight and need slacking off to restore free rotation but I shan't pin any hopes on that until I've had a look.
Not angry or upset, just disappointed really.
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