vulgalour
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Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Sept 14, 2017 15:01:59 GMT
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It's been a while since I did so I went out to fire up the Princess and make sure the brakes hadn't stuck on, that sort of thing, and was greeted with a flat battery. Thought that was a bit odd, but then it's been a while so maybe it had just gone flat like batteries do. Jumped it off the Rover, fired up no bother and then I trundled it back and forth a few times while it got up to temperature. Then the indicator flasher relay wouldn't stop clicking. Then smoke started appearing from that area. Turned it all off, checked for anything warm, or hot, or melted, and there's no signs of anything amiss. Attempted to restart to recreate the issue and the battery is already flat. Of course that means there's an electrical problem, probably an earth problem. If I'd disturbed anything between last starting the car and today I could understand it but the car has sat idle and nothing electrical has been moved. The suspension pipe removal didn't involve disturbing any electrical or earth points. I reckon I'm going to have to pull the dashboard out YET AGAIN to get to the bottom of this. Not particularly thrilled really that it's still throwing weird electrical issues at me and the last thing I want is the car catching fire behind the dash (or at all). Haven't had time spare to organise getting the suspension pipe fixed either. VED expires this month so I reckon I'm just going to SORN it and stick it in the corner for the winter. Work slows down a bit November-February usually so I can probably crack on with stuff then. Besides, I wanted to spare the Princess the worst of the winter weather. Just feels like I've barely used the car at all since getting it back on the road in April.
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Sept 14, 2017 18:31:56 GMT
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Progress - yay! I've missed your updates.
It's worth fitting a battery quick disconnect if you don't use it much.
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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Sept 15, 2017 4:01:38 GMT
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I have missed the updates too - a "'72 1100, '80 Princess, '94 414SLi" update is one of the first I look for daily (Along with Grenade, plackpopracing, anything from Seth and a few many others).
Edit:
Not forgetting: johnnybravo Flyingphil rebel Low Standards freshandminty Frankenhealey Griz Grumpynorthener MR TIKI Bullstarz mrbounce johnthesparky wilfred edk83.......................
curse word, what have I started here?
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,272
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Sept 15, 2017 15:20:01 GMT
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Never really thought to put a battery disconnect on - it is disconnected atm - because normally the Princess was in regular use. I'm just having a rubbish time of it trying to recommission the thing lately. V5 finally arrived for the 1100 and can confirm I am owner number 16 of it. I reckon DVLA will send me a bill next for missing tax since I couldn't get the SORN to work on the new keeper form and they took bloody ages sending the new V5 through for me. They can whistle at any rate.
Sorry for the lack of updates lately, work has been eating all of my time and energies and when I have had spare time the weather has been too appalling to actually do anything on the cars that I want to do. With a bit of luck I'll have the weekend free, though there's already non-car jobs stacking up. Being a grown-up sucks.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,272
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Sept 17, 2017 17:23:00 GMT
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Right. Charged the battery and started the Princess no bother. Alternator is charging properly and, with the flasher relay disconnected, I wasn't getting any problems. Let the car start to get up to temperature and I could start to smell hot electrics.
No smoke, nothing obvious so waited a bit and the smell just got stronger. It's coming from behind the dashboard somewhere and the only way I'll find out where is by pulling the dashboard out at this point *but* I don't think it's the flasher at fault, more that it was highlighting audibly that there is a fault somewhere in the vicinity.
Next step is to pull the dashboard out yet again, see if we can find any obvious fault and, if not, rebuild the dashboard. At this point, custom dashboard feels a sensible route to go since I'll be upgrading everything with new wires and whatnot and able to make everything as safe as possible. In the short term I've disconnected the battery and left it alone until I have the time to pull the dash and do a full inspection properly, which won't be today.
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Last Edit: Sept 17, 2017 17:23:12 GMT by vulgalour
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Sept 18, 2017 10:53:20 GMT
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I once swapped a gearbox on my old nissan sunny and forgot to tighten the earth strap that was bolted to it. As a result, I had weird electrical problems including the car trying to earth through the speedo cable. This was hot and smelly. just a thought...
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vulgalour
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Sept 18, 2017 14:26:14 GMT
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As mentioned already, nothing has been disturbed at all between the car being used and this problem appearing. Earth points, etc. are all as they were and all the usual suspects check out fine.
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Sept 19, 2017 2:23:40 GMT
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As mentioned already, nothing has been disturbed at all between the car being used and this problem appearing. Earth points, etc. are all as they were and all the usual suspects check out fine. It certainly sounds like a huge earth leak/short. I would point fingers at the wiring loom behind the dash (if there is one). You need to employ the multimeter and check for a current drain from the battery. If it's flattening the battery so fast it should be fairly easy to trace back if you don't set it on fire first
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vulgalour
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Sept 19, 2017 14:21:14 GMT
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There's been numerous suggestions that it could be indicator stalk related with wear, dirt or damage causing this bizarre issue. I'm not convinced. However, nothing ventured nothing gained so I've got the steering column shroud off and was going to remove the stalk to dismantle, inspect and clean but I've misplaced the 33mm compatible tools to remove the steering wheel. What I can say is there's no obvious signs of damage to any of the wiring that goes to the stalks so if there is damage it'll be inside the unit where I can't see yet.
I'm really, really short on free time lately so I'm only getting the odd half hour here and there on the car which is a bit frustrating.
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vulgalour
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Sept 19, 2017 16:32:34 GMT
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Full update later, for now a quick note to let you know I've removed the stalks and the problem appears to have gone away so I'd guess the issue is in there, probably indicator stalk as mentioned by a few folks. When I've more time I'll inspect the switch block, take some pictures and do a proper update. At least I can now move the car under its own power without fear of inappropriate combustion.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
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Sept 19, 2017 23:56:25 GMT
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Here's the Princess update proper. The first thing I did today was unfasten the steering column cowling and have a look at the wiring. Nothing amiss, all nice and clean and no signs of damage. I then went to remove the steering wheel only to find I didn't have a 33mm socket at home. Went to the unit and got the only thing I could find that would match, an adjustable spanner, which when I got home I found didn't go big enough. Had to do some work so next break I got I went and tried to buy a new socket, eventually ended up at Halfords as it was the only place with one on the shelf. 20170920-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr That sorted it was easy enough to get the steering wheel off so I could then remove the stalks. Merely loosen the column clamp screw, unplug the two stalk connectors on the loom and remove the stalks. Steering wheel could then go back on so the car is still mobile. Fired it up again and waited for the smell of burning electricals which after several minutes did not manifest. I plugged the indicator flasher in and that remained silent, though that could be because the circuit is incomplete without the stalks, I don't know, I'm not an electrician. 20170920-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr 20170920-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr On inspection, there's no sign of anything having become warm, let alone hot enough to deform. Several people had already suggested it could be worn or damaged tracks inside the switch so that would have to be the next step. 20170920-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr Difficult to photograph, but once inside the switch there's no wear beyond what you'd normally expect. The grease hasn't dried out, there's no dirt to speak of. All of the plastic pieces are as new. There is nothing untoward inside either switch. 20170920-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr 20170920-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I cleaned the contact surfaces anyway, since it was all apart, and then reassembled. Then found that the indicator solid was locked solid so took it apart again. Then fought with the return springs, plastic locators, hub ring, backing plate and stalk to line it all up, screwed it together, and the indicator stalk was locked solid again. I tried several different combinations and alignments of the various internal components always with the same result: massive frustration and a locked up indicator stalk. I can't find a diagram to show alignments, etc. of the switch internals in the manual, nor pictures online. I don't have a reference picture myself because on opening the switch up everything moved before I even lifted the backing plate off. That means in trying to fix this, I've actually made things worse. Perfect. Next step is once I've actually managed to get the switch to go together properly - which it probably will after I've had a good rest and more than five minutes spare to work on it - is to plug it back in and see what happens. If the burning smell and smoke don't reappear than brilliant, I've fixed it. If it does reappear and it is the switch pack I have no idea how to fix something that doesn't show any signs of being broken. Time will tell. But it's certainly not fixed. Quite the opposite, in fact.
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
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Sept 20, 2017 3:29:03 GMT
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Not sure if you have an infrared thermometer but they aren't expensive. With one you could perhaps isolate hot spots in the wiring.
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Sept 20, 2017 20:27:12 GMT
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They look very similar if not the same as Rover SD1 stalks . Do you have a pic of the stalk side with the settings on?
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1984 Rover SD1 Vanden Plas 2600 Auto 1985 Rover SD1 2300s Auto 2005 MG ZT 1.8 Manual
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vulgalour
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Sept 20, 2017 20:43:18 GMT
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Wouldn't surprise me at all if they were the exact same stalks, they were used on other BL cars of the same period. Mike and I both have tried to put this switch back together and can't. We're going to have one last go with it in a clamp at the unit to serve as an extra pair of hands that doesn't have arms in the way before giving up completely and seeing if my 1979 spare is compatible.
Suspension pipe was dropped off with a local company today, should have a quote on repair for that tomorrow, hopefully won't be too pricey, they were good with the fuel tank.
Churchill suspension pump has been a bit of a nuisance too. Every time we think it's working another old part fails and has to have a new bit ordered. Still, we think there's no more old bits to fail now and the new parts have arrived. It needs to hold 400psi for the Princess' suspension (350psi for the 1100, which is on early Hydralastic) and at the moment the pump is only holding 200psi because of a failed old connector. That's enough to get a car off its bump stops, but not enough to get the suspension set properly.
Rover is behaving and still waiting for me to fit this new cat I bought. Haven't had any time free to get that done at all. Austin is just waiting, likewise for more time on my part, and the money for new panels of course.
I'm really hoping work etc. calms down a bit soon, I'm more than ready for some time off.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Sept 21, 2017 21:48:25 GMT
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Insurance renewal came through for the Rover. I'm going to have to get on the phone and do it the old fashioned way by the looks of things.
Old premium: £276.73 Renewal: £382.20 Two cheapest online competitors: £379.90 Every other online competitor: £700-1200
What the fudge happened? That's quite a hike in price, especially for someone who rather than making claims has had another year of motoring claim-free. I'm used to renewal being daft and switching provider to get a better deal, this time it looks like I can't do that. I mean, that's a 50% increase for no apparent reason. It would suggest something has happened across the board for it to be all providers issuing the same price hike.
I'll do some old-fashioned phone calls to try and get a better deal with a specialist, though normally for one reason or another they either won't insure me (car's too new, car's too old, not enough NCB, not enough driving experience, not a home owner...) or they aren't competitive so I don't hold out much hope.
Not looking for insurer suggestions, I have a pretty exhaustive list of insurers I call every year with the same results and pretty much always end up back with the cheapest online comparison site provider.
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Sept 21, 2017 23:06:35 GMT
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Say your a home owner oh, and not self employed.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
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Sept 21, 2017 23:58:56 GMT
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yeah... I'm not going to chance it. You know what my luck's like
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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Sept 22, 2017 4:46:42 GMT
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I am always astounded by the astronomical price of insurance in the UK.
I do not understand how one's risk is increased by the fact that the house is rented or that the journeys taken are as an employee or self employed.
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MiataMark
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Sept 22, 2017 6:45:41 GMT
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I am always astounded by the astronomical price of insurance in the UK. I do not understand how one's risk is increased by the fact that the house is rented or that the journeys taken are as an employee or self employed. I'm self-employed and my 'commute' is probably much less than most peoples as I'm home based but got hammered for it on the MX5, and it was on restricted mileage anyway. Why is 'business' mileage more of a risk? NFU is worth checking out for self-employed as it covers business use as standard.
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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Onne
Part of things
Posts: 822
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Sept 22, 2017 6:56:40 GMT
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Definitely give them a call too, mine tried the same, and almost matched the previous year.
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1990 Mercedes W126 300SE 1997 Mercedes W140 S320L
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