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Aug 20, 2014 20:45:42 GMT
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Been looking at a few recently, and I know that they all need their sills done at some point... ...but I went up to Edinburgh this evening to view one and it obviously needs both sills replaced, the drivers side in particular. Other than that, it was alright; a decent stock v-spec with low miles. The seller claimed that he had a quote of 250 quid to get both sorted; patches cut to shape and let in. Having had a good poke about underneath and using my superpower (a couple of magnetic implants which mean - amongst other things - that I can feel the difference between steel and filler) it looks like the driver's side is fairly deep; will probably need inner sill done as well. What's a realistic price for this? I'd have thought closer to £400 at least. Disclaimer: I can't weld to save myself... Imagine dropping solder on some metal, then having a pigeon poo on it. And then welding it really badly. Cheers in advance *n
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Top grammar tips! Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Aug 21, 2014 11:56:47 GMT
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The problem with mx5's is the cills rot from the inside out, as drain tubes clog up, water sits in the cills and hey presto 6 months later it starts to come through,not before it has normally eaten its way through the inside of the cill.Nutz has a few horror show pics from people who have noticed a rust bubble and started to pick at it. I reckon £200 to £250 a side would get you a top job that wouldnt need patching in another year,but you might find someone on here willing to beat that.
Steve
P.s not all of them rot, i have Will Carters old 89 Eunos and it still on its original cills.........
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Ginetta G15 BMW K1100 conversion Sold Mk1 Mx5 on ITB'S Sold TVR Chimaera 400 supercharged MR2 Red Roadster 2ZZ Bee*R 324 Skyline 95 Cherokee Jeep
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quackshot
Posted a lot
...friggin' cars...
Posts: 1,354
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Aug 21, 2014 12:02:03 GMT
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Most of mine had original sills. Only some right shocky ukdm was rotten as a morning after Stella Artois poo.
Sent from my LG-F320L using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk 2
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hkr91
South East
Posts: 562
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Aug 21, 2014 13:46:29 GMT
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I paid £400, then again I had it sprayed and blended in. Obviously you can do it cheaper
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Aug 21, 2014 17:35:11 GMT
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On the flip side, I've got money sat here looking for a good car Will let him sit and think about it, if it's still for sale in a couple of weeks I'll make a low ball offer. *n
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Top grammar tips! Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Aug 21, 2014 19:17:49 GMT
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helped with some work on one of these that a fellow member of the loughborough uni motor club has, i'll be honest her's was a really horrible job! there are, from memory, about five layers of steel in these sills in order to make the chassis strong, and in hers the middle one had rotten worst of the lot after some numpty patched over the drain hole where the water from the soft top, don't know if that helps out with looking for one that's not so bad? couldnt say how much it cost since we did the whole o/s/r arch at the same time and the labour was free, but just the steel and the arch panel was over £100 i think.
hope you find a goodun, they seem like great cars from the ones my mates have!
Richard
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Last Edit: Aug 21, 2014 19:19:12 GMT by rich745
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,784
Club RR Member Number: 34
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mx-5 sill repairsDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Aug 21, 2014 21:36:01 GMT
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don't touch it, find a better one. they're a curse word to do properly, as said above about 5 layers of steel- but the outer on is only about 3/4mm thick, which is pretty much impossible to weld in over the thicker layers without distortion. the panels are very expensive too.
youre best of buying the best shell you can find then swapping the nuts and bolts bits over to get what you want, its cheaper and easier.
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Aug 21, 2014 22:52:20 GMT
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What Dez said A royal pain in the rear.
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MK2 Cortina Estate
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Cheers *n
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Top grammar tips! Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Aug 22, 2014 13:25:43 GMT
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youre best of buying the best shell you can find then swapping the nuts and bolts bits over to get what you want, its cheaper and easier. my friend unfortunately decided to do the opposite of this and bought one that was mechanically great with loads of great parts on it (even had a working lsd!) but was a little worse for wear. she's now had one rear arch professionally done, one by the motor club, and i've been trying to fathom the VERY dodgy electrics that some idiot previous owner did got to agree with the above, there seem to be enough bits for them out there that you should be able to mechanically sort the car yourself, but the bodywork isn't fun! Rich
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Aug 22, 2014 20:48:18 GMT
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This will give you an idea of what can hide under what appears to be a fairly solid looking sill with a bit of surface rust. fixing the inside to the oem spec was impossible, so me and my workmate did the best we could to put some strength back into the area (the previous repair, they had just plated over the grot). We added some box section to strengthen the jacking point and sone additional strips of steel which to be fair probably do very little! Being a car I paid just over a grand for, I couldn't justify wasting money on panels, so I made everything from sheet steel offcuts from a local steel firm (saved me loads!) Finished repair is pretty respectable. My car now runs a set of arch covers from a mk3 golf as the arch lips were starting to go. My solution was to chop the grot out, fold the inner arch over the outer and stitch weld it together. Not pretty, but on an mx5 which has covered 180k, spending £400 on arch repair panels simply wasn't worthwhile.
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