1989 Range Rover Classic V8 - serviced.. 25 Aug 14

I went up to the unit today however didnt get round to the diagnostics due to it completely pouring down.

I cleaned up all the earth points, cleaned up all the plugs. Checked the rotor arm and it springs back, and with suction on the actuator the arm moves it round with vacuum. I cleaned up all the coil connections and ensured they were tight and.. some success.

Engine revved freely and idled great for a while, until it started warming up. I did manage to get it round the carpark and give it a bit of an 'italian tuneup', but as it got warm it then wouldnt idle and kept cutting out. When i went to rev it up, it was popping away to itself.

the igntion system, although non OEM (and i know you range rover guys will debate this) is almost brand new so i begrudge swapping it out. I will however if i don't get anywhere from the diagnostics.

Obviously its still overfuelling, i suspect its either the CTS or (hoping not) the FPR. THe inlet is stinking of fuel even though the 9th injector is disconnected electronically. I think ill try and nip the hose off, in case somehow its letting extra fuel through. I'm not sure how the idle is controlled but this is also now a suspect.

Some quick pics, as everyone like pics and videos.







Its at least the best ive managed to get it so far with simple cleaning up. Fingers crossed the rain stays off so i can fiddle with electrics.

Yeah, back in the nineties when I was more niave about Range Rovers I thought exactly the same. £600 later on replacing parts that it seems didn't actually need replacing I replaced the new patern rotor arm with an old original rotor arm. Rough running instantly cured!! I can't tell for sure but I think you may have the wrong coil on there. It looks like one for a Classic Range Rover with points, not the electronic system. I think yours should have this one: www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RTC5628P1



Always advisable as disconecting it only stops it from triggering. If it was leaking it will make no difference until you physically stop the supply. Be careful though as the fuel in the pipe is under quite a high pressure.



The auxiliary air valve does this during warm up.

The CTS can be tested with an ohmeter and a heat source. Details of the resistance curve should be in the manual you have already got.

If the tracks inside the airflow meter have become tarnished it will also cause problems with rough running. It can be dismantled and cleaned but DON'T adjust anything unless you know what you are doing. More info here: www.gomog.com/articles/AFMadjust.html



No crank sensor on these. The ignition is conventional distributor and not mapped by the ECU, and the injection fires all injectors on each bank simultaneously (alternate banks) so is very crude and only needs an engine speed signal from the coil. No synchronisation is requied between crank and cam.

Works been a bit grim recently but i started the diagnostics. I got to about step 8 before i got any major problems - namely the CTS. I suspected this but at 20 degrees it should be reading about 5000ohms.. its reading 50.7 - and i double checked my ohmeter was setup right. Knackered id say.

I ordered a new one today along with an OEM rotor arm. Just looking for someone to move it from my work to home as soon as i can really, but time will tell.

Squonk - cheers for the detailed reply. I'm going to replace the igntion system with OEM bits from the cheapest bit up. The coil looks the same but mine says 'ballast' on it. How would i go about totally blocking off the 9th injector?

I'm also now worried i tested the resistance on the wrong sensor, there seems to be about 4. Ill double check tomorrow but from what i can work out the CTS to change (for the EFI anyway) is vertical, slightly on the n/s, and towards the front of the engine above the fanbelt..?



Also agree with the cleaning, i started last weekend but until its home on the drive its a PITA to get to.

I remove the pipe and insert something of a suitable diameter into the end of it and clamp it tight with a good quality hose clip.



There are three sensors, one with a single wire to it which feeds the temperature gauge, one with two wires which feeds the ECU and a third one which is the thermo time switch that controls the auxiliary air valve. On vehicles with a/c there is an additional sensor. It's the two wire sensor you need to check. It should have Black/Slate and Black/White wires connected to it.

Think it was back end of '92 or '93 that the Classic got EAS. Before that they were on coils with the self-levelling stuff at the rear.

EAS is basically just 4 rubber bags instead of springs, shockers as normal, height sensors and associated compressor with an air tank under the RHS sill. No globes like, for example the Citroen.

Oh, and the B pillars would have been satin black as per the window frames.

[quote author="oasis6x" source="/post/1971063/thread" timestamp="1406769768So what's the globes in the front inner arches that go nowhere? They have standard vac hose attached to them, maybe 4mm? I'll get a picture of one tomorrow I'm sure there's one behind the passenger headlight.[/quote]

A damn fine question sir! Never owned a Classic only the later P38s

On mine, the only "globe" under the bonnet is the brake accumulator for the ABS and looks like this.



Not sure if the earlier Classic had this. Stick some pictures up and maybe one of the knowledgeable Classic guys can/will help.

It is plastic, makes sense that the heater doesnt work well! Its just added to the list..

Success! Today, refitted a new CTS and gave it a good start up and run, drives sweet. A little down on power seemingly, but hopefully an oil change etc is good. It ran at least good enough for me to take it to the MT garage at work and pump all the tyres up, and give it a loving hot jet wash. Its like its got a whole new lease of life.

Next step is moving it tot he drive for some interior TLC and more servicing and care.

For now, I'm in the process of uploading a nice video from the day.

Quick video. Bear in mind this is just to get it running, i appreciate its a bag of curse word inside!

^
LOL

And agree sounds like it should