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Sept 5, 2017 19:46:29 GMT
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This is an early engine without valve stem seals but a friend who knows these engines well said they used to slide an O-ring over each inlet stem and it serves to stop too much oil running down the stem? Seems legit? Anyone heard of this? Answers on the back of a pie packet please and post to Bodgit and Scarper race engines, Marahau, NZ. Rover V8 engines in the SD1 have a rubber washer which should be fitted to the valve stems and these are mentioned in the WSM as valve stem seals. Some 15 years agoI fitted new ones during the rebuild but found a few in the oil at a later oil change. So i don't think these will work. Some time ago i overhauled another one and fitted Range Rover type valve guides which are machined to receive a proper valve stem seal. Some say that valves stems without the seals get better lubricated so they wear less, especially as today petrol doesn't contain lead any more. The first engine is still in my MGB and doesn't use much oil so if the clearance between valve stem and guide is oke, i wouldn't worry too much Peter |
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Cheers for that info :-) I'll have a look at how worn the guides are when Hannah strips it down and assess whether it actually needs them. The oil buildup on the back of the valve heads could have built up over quite some time, plus some of it will be from the breather pipe.
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Sept 6, 2017 11:20:01 GMT
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The O-ring method was used on earlier BMC A-series IIRC?
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Sept 7, 2017 10:57:02 GMT
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Sept 18, 2017 8:08:45 GMT
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Oh cheers for the link Timmy ^ Sadly though.. the idea of fitting this engine has ground to a halt for now :-( It was raining yuck outside this afternoon so Hannah stripped the head off and removed the valves.   While removing the head a couple of valve springs were noted as being quite loose. Loose enough to spin freely by hand. Hmmmm. Bug-ger.  Number two valve removed, an exhaust valve, had a broken spring.  Two of the exhaust seats have deep recession and the other two are on their way. You can see how pitted the seat is on the one with the broken spring. Note the amount of recession (probably also had much lapping of valves through out its life by some old Barry owner) Note how bad the surface is on the valve head too.   The inlet valves are quite thin having been lapped in a fair bit by the previous owner who rebuilt this engine.. obviously a fair few miles back going by the amount of slop in the guides. With the valve heads pulled out to max lift most of the valves have upwards of 2-3mm of sideways play at the head. Also noted is a repaired crack. This doesn't worry me as usually once fixed they wont do it again. But its not the smoothest repair. Plus there are some bloody hefty scrape marks from some heavy handed gasket removal evident.  The block has been bored out .030" with new pistons but has worn enough to have a decent lip. Not so bad its not usable but noted anyway.  So suffice to say I am very happy we decided to strip the head off for a look and found these faults now, rather than having fitted the engine only to discover after doing so that its a dud. Saved quite a bit of grief. I have stashed away all the bits and will now re-think the game plan. Considering the engine currently fitted is purring along quite nicely with its only gripe being a bit slow on the steep hills (I suspect about standard level of slow to be expected though) and that it likes to leave a little mark from its leaky rear main seal, I think I will just happily putt along with that engine for now. The other Viva is advertised and one day it may well sell. Then I can look at re-powers. Between now and then I'll keep my eyes open for another cylinder head in better condition than this one. I'm not sure if the 1256 heads fit straight on? Any ideas/info welcome. |
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Sept 19, 2017 20:49:31 GMT
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Picked up my new caravan last night. Been after a suitable art deco style caravan for a while and to find one in the same colour as the wagon is fantastic. I just had to get it!...   Now where to take it first??? |
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Sept 19, 2017 22:13:25 GMT
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anything mountainous and windy, of course....the view from the top of any mountain pass looks great from your living room window!  JP |
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Sept 21, 2017 8:35:18 GMT
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I'll do my very best. I'll have to avoid bridges.
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Sept 21, 2017 22:24:26 GMT
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Please get that ride height sorted. It's not cool to need a ladder to enter your caravan.
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Sept 22, 2017 4:44:43 GMT
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Shouldn't be too tough to pull 'er up th mb track, save ya a bit of cabin building on the ridge. I'll pop round to sleep in 'er one of these years
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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Sept 22, 2017 4:51:12 GMT
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Sept 22, 2017 9:04:15 GMT
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So much has happened (well at least clearing more areas and track building) since the last update there. Yes... I must update it :-) Only just got in earlier from more tree felling right up till it was dangerously dark this evening. So many trees to fell.
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A bit of happenings recently so update time. Firstly.. I've sold the v6 viva and now having paid off a tax bill and other bits I've still got some coin to spend on upgrading this wee car.
In a sad turn of events though, I find myself in the UK for a few weeks for a funeral. That sucks in itself plus leaving summer sun for winter glum ain't nice either. However, as a former of therepy I will try to make the most of my time here and look to collecting some bits needed.
I'm definitely going to re-power this wagon. Undecided yet but leaning to one of three choices.
Either another mazda v6, a Ford duratec four or a suzuki m16a four.
All have pluses and minuses. I want it to be as light as possible which really does rule the v6 out(but still light at120kgbare bare with flywheel) but it has so many positives that it sneaks into the list.
The duratec is only 95kg, similar to the suzuki.
The suzuki RWD box that bolts on is vitara/jimny based and has terrible 1,2, 3 ratios.
The box I need for the duratec would be an Mx5 nc item. 5 speed has the best ratios.
For the v6 I would this time round use the Mx5 na/nb unit with the better ratios, bolted to a Rx7 bell.
So now looking about at getting a box and shipping it back. Hard/expensive in nz so might get a few and reclaim costs by selling on.
Donations of Mx5 boxes gladly accepted!!! I in Oxford and will have use of a k11 micra to collect stuff :-)
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Nov 24, 2017 21:10:39 GMT
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love the cold stitching on that head repair, proper old school skill
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Neat eh. The xflo I had in the other viva had exactly the same repair in the same place.
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Nov 28, 2017 21:09:55 GMT
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4AGE?
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Koos
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Barra turbo for maximum impracticality.
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990 
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Nov 29, 2017 10:38:15 GMT
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Lightweight, cheap, ridiculously plentiful and reliable, easy to tune, ladeez and gennulmen, I give you the Ford Zetec Se / Sigma engine. From 1.25 to 1.7, bell housing for rwd Ford boxes available, designed by Yamaha for Ford, borrowing heavily on 4age principles. Alloy block naturally and DOHC.
My 1.4 variant in my RallyKa is running on a diy bike T/bs manifold, with a diy port and Polish, and piper cams. Gave 145 bhp on the dyno with a bad exhaust, too short inlet mani and a fault in the ecu. Standard rods, pistons and valves.
With more effort the 1.4 goes to 200+ bhp, so a 1.6 out of a Puma, Fiesta or booted Focus should give an easy 160+ bhp.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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Nov 29, 2017 23:19:30 GMT
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CA18DET - compact RWD with a nice 5 speed gearbox, simple looms, small turbo gives great low down response and a smidge under 170 BHP & 170 lbft out of the box with piston oil squirters and a crank girdle already fitted and forged bits readily available. You may need to put some effort in to find one but they’re still out there.
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Dec 12, 2017 20:39:41 GMT
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I love both suggestions. Both are iron blocks though.. still a little heavy compared to what is in there.
However- I'm thinking about going for a drive with a 10kg sack of compost sat on each inner wing. Here me out.... if I secure them in place I can see what a difference 20kg will make over the front axle.
Plus..I have an idea that the the stock 1.2 and 1.8 model uprights have a different king pin inclination to the 3.3 Victor items I had fitted to the other Viva, leading to more scrub with the wheels fitted and so by loading the steering up in corners.
Yeah those zetec engines are great. I love Ca18s but they are indeed getting harder to find in OK condition. Still keen on trying a Duratec!
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