Stag Turbo, With a smile & a nod the wise man said nothing

I’ve been thinking of getting a scissor lift for awhile, personally I like the look of the midrise portable ones. However, like you mentioned, the full rise a similar price to the mid/low rise, then may be worth go for one of those. It be interesting to know how easy they are to site and put together and whether it is worth going for the full rise lift.

I’ve looked and a few sites and they all seem to be a similar price and specification, although some do 3 1/2 tons opposed to just 3. Which is fine for most cars and vans. The thing is the scissor lifts don’t look like they can actually stably support that weight. They look quite flimsy design, but the must work and I suppose when you look at it each ramp is only taking a maximum of 1 1/2 tons. so each support in holding a load of 375kg. Also I should imagine that the rams are also taking a load as well.

Like I said it be interesting to see how well yours works.

I didn’t need a new dash but I’ve been thinking about one for a while. And there’s a few that are stupidly price and no one can buy them unless you are a millionaire, or a race car driver, which is pretty much the same.

Then there’s other ones that are really nice, but you have to spend a fortune on the ECU that controls it.

Then there is the nice good-looking screens that work perfect with the ECU, Link/Aim, but they are fairly expensive.

Then the ones that are virtually identical from a different manufacture, Haltech, and a reasonable price.

Then there’s the ones that are a more of a generic – that work with pretty much anything, pro dash, but these although are quite reasonable and have a fully configure will dash to exactly how you would like it. But aren’t that professional looking. Also the same to take a while to boot up.

Finally there is the race dash is that connects via a can sniffer, real dash, and use a tablet as a screen. These are as expensive as the tablet you bye curse word the issue with these is they could take an age to boot up and if they did Crash then you’ve got no gauges whatsoever. So you’d have to pullover switch everything off back on again and wait for all to work.

I was quite lucky as I did like the Haltech ic-7 dash and managed to find one what I thought was a very good price. And it arrived the day after a pay for it which I thought was great. I did take a while to get it all working, mainly because they were at the help file, but as soon as the correct CAN ID was enter all was good.

Has anybody any experience on the Haltech dash’s working with the link G4X ECU’s.

Although I thought I got a good deal I had to go out and buy a new laptop today as my old one wouldn’t run the Haltech software. Still the money I saved buying this Dash compared to the link/aim Dash meant that the laptop was free and I also saved £250 as well. Every cloud and all that.

Surely you could use the brake pedal switch input to the ecu for blipping on downshift?

I'm soo tempted by a digital dash/instrument cluster, but can't afford one for some time at the moment anyway

And there's soo much choice as to what there is available size wise now

Always like to read and catch up on progress here, even without photos of stuff

I've been looking into the race dash, it's not for a race car but my daily driver. There is very limited information displayed on the dash, speed, revs and fuel , not even a coolant, it would  an advantage to see what was going on. At present I don't have an aftermarket ecu but the car does have the obd 2 port. I have seen one or two of these race dashes that state that can read the all this and display all the relevant data. 

You mentioned that you got them at a price that you couldn't refuse, it may be a bit cheeky to ask but what sort of price are we talking, and which dealer/supplier was it. As I've seen them advertised from  £800  the cheapest ,all the way to £950 for the same dash of what you've got. Like I said I'm interested and I'm sure that a fair few other people might be if we could get it for a decent price.  I do realise this may have to be bulk buy, possibly a number of us committing to it. it may be worth it if its possible.

In one of the posts a while back I was trying to source a way of having a direct input to the ecu of the gear position. This would enable the ECU to do a few more tricks and hopefully be more accurate. Plus it would be able to tell what gear I was in even with clutch pedal pressed.

So so I looked into getting 6 hall effect sensors which cost about £5, that's for six. Then using ohms law and the divider rule for resistors, have each of the signal wires of each sensor go through a different resistor and then a branch off that with a signal wire to the ecu and another one that goes through a 1kohm resister to sensor ground.








All fairly easy, the hard part would be locating it and getting it to work correctly and without the possibility to go wrong/move. So I looked to see if there was already a kit available come on you know I sort of off the shelf one size fits all. I did find something but for it to work you had to have another part. The other part would make my H pattern gearbox sort of into a sequential box. Now all it was, was an add on to the top of the gearbox where knocking it one way would change up, knock it the other way you change down. Let's face it every wants a sequential gearbox whether you need one or not.





this is the S1 sequential shifter,  not cheap but it can do the job that originally wanted and more, plus it's sequential. Now before yesterday I've never heard of this company, Ive seen Attempts at trying to do a similar sort of thing with solenoid's and actuators. But these were extremely complicated/expensive also required  more ecus to control it and they  were not that reliable either. 

Does anybody know anything about these sequential shifters or had any personal experience on them. If they're worth getting or just something that sounds/looks better than it actually works. I can't afford one But its something else to put down onto the ever growing list of nice to haves.

Pretty sure that Lucky Costa has one of those shifters on his Chevelle.

Look him up on Youtube Luckys garage.

He seems to like it.

P.

Yes I have to agree what a lucky man, both to have a woman that can do that sort of stuff and is prepared to do that sort of stuff for them is amazing. And she looks quite hot too. Mine can't even change a light bulb on her own or even make a cup of tea if I need one.

Stag Turbo, With a smile & a nod the wise man said nothing

Did the wise man say yes or no or nothing to a problem that doesn't exist. To the problem that doesn't exist the only solution being a new gearbox.

A mate of mine is a delivery driver and he drops stuff off to some geezer working an old triumph. he said the bloke was putting it to pieces trying to sort stuff out and he was waiting for the parts me mate delivered. Me mate is interested in old cars and was talking to him for a while and took a photograph of what the bloke was working on. Now from what me mate said it was a stag turbo, and i thought that not many of them knocking around so it must be urse.

If Jesus is to blame that explains a lot because it definitely wasn't done by qualified auto electrician, a chippy who's been dead for 2000 years maybe.

But that was yesterday, or the day before or even possibly the day before that. And it's changed a little bit since then.





it's not as bad as it looks, it's far worse. There is a lot of legacy wiring, some of it is still being used but a lot of it is redundant but somehow, even though don't know how, there's a few live wires. There's lots of other bits I've added on over the years, some of it is half decent while alot is it a little bit shady. A lot can be said for CANBUS.

I  started to do the wiring for the new ECU and Dash. I wanted to make it a bit easier and get a lot of wires out of the way, but things are so wrapped up and intertwined that it has become a bit of a nightmare/clusterfuck. 

Although at the moment majority the wires are marked up, sort of colour coded, but I'm still finding  loads more that aren't, there's still a lot that can be done to make it a bit neater, if you can believe that. When I first started re-doing electrics a few years ago I used Dyno/Clicker Tape. Everything marked up clearly and easy to understand. That lasted a couple of weeks until it all fell off.

All the gearbox surround is now off, which I'm glad I used screw and loads of non setting sealant. If id  used silicon sealant it was never going to come off. This is to speed up ( when it gets here but it on its way from the other side of the World ) the fitting of the new sequential selector. Which is going to add another small bit of wiring to link up the gear position sensor and reverse switch to the ecu. However,  fitting the new selector will allow me to get rid of the reverse inhibitor and the associated wiring. I might if possible also fit a sensor, like a hall effect, which will work on the downshift to tell the ecu I'm going down the box to allow the blip to happen on the shift.

The last few months Ive literally done nothing to the car, the fact I've now got a new toy to fit has spurred me on to get my asre into the garage and do something for a change.