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Feb 13, 2014 17:47:18 GMT
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More cheery news - the 'new' wheels and tyres have arrived. Almost new TD5 Defender tubeless rims with 7.50 x 16 Michelin's. I got them for a reasonable price on the 'Bay and they really make the old girl look more loved and a bit less shagged out! I've not driven very far on them yet but the steering feels a bit more positive and and ride is better. I don't know about noise yet because I've not gone fast enough but I suspect that it too will be reduced.
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Feb 14, 2014 11:42:56 GMT
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love it ! remember bought a set of spare wheels which had 16 year old kingpin trakker MT (remould mud tyre) awesome, not, had basically turned to plastic and sounding like a B17 bomber diving
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2014 11:43:43 GMT by darrenh
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Mar 10, 2014 14:02:57 GMT
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Well I've been using her daily for just over a month now without fault, until now. Normally on my commute I never make it over 30 but on Friday I had to drive home from Oxford which went motorway speeds. It was a nice day and I was in no hurry so just sat at 45 which was fine - until a vibration started up. I could feel it through the wheel and seat and it got worse on overrun / free wheeling. It's only apparent over 40 and got very bad free wheeling down hill a 50! My initial thoughts were the rear diff pinion bearing was on the way out so I changed the oil in the diff which was in fine order but the problem is still there. I couldn't feel any movement in the prop shafts by hand but after some reading on the landy forums I am now suspicious of a UJ. It would explain the clunk on some gear changes which I had put down to the exhaust being loose. It's not a wheel out of balance because they were fine when fitted - vibration free at 55 - 60 and they've not lost any weights. It doesn't bother me hugely because I won't be going fast enough to notice for a few weeks but obviously want to get it sorted. Is there anything else worth checking? James EDIT: Oh dear. I went and hand a poke around again and the rear axle flange is loose in all directions. Up, down, in and out. I'm guessing that's a buggered pinion bearing? . I've ordered a set of prop bolts and nuts and my current plan is to drop the axle off and see if the flange bolt is done up properly. If it is then I guess I'll just have to drop off the rear prop and go FWD for a bit until I can source a new axle. I'm not going to ruin anything else doing that am I? James
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Last Edit: Mar 10, 2014 16:23:14 GMT by metroman
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Mar 10, 2014 20:18:45 GMT
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Good to see others making use of GoMog
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Ich habe kein Geld!
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Mar 10, 2014 20:38:11 GMT
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Cant say for sure about removing the rear prop, i've heard of running without the front but not the rear. On a positive note the new wheels look good
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72 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. 95 BMW E34 525i Manual. 80 Lotus Elite, sold 86 Mk4 Escort RWD V8, sold
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Mar 11, 2014 12:23:25 GMT
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Should have no rear trouble with driving about in fwd, you'll notice the UJ's being notchy at full lock. eventually it will spit the dummy but that may be a very long time before it happens.
i remember seeing a conversion in a mag, lowloader 109", hauled heavy things about the place in fwd only.
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Mar 11, 2014 12:46:31 GMT
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That's good to know, thanks. I've got some new prop bolts and nylocs on order which should turn up tomorrow. If so I'll whip the prop off and see if the flange nut is loose or can be fixed. If not I'll just leave her in FWD until I've got time to rebuild/swap out the axle.
James
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Mar 11, 2014 16:47:54 GMT
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It it actually a salisbury axle (as the diagram)? The pinion bearings are different.
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being a late model 109 Series it most likely is a Salisbury under the rear, Rover axles under all 88" models and 2/2a 109s i notice no one has mentioned keeping an eye on your transmission oils, gearbox, transfer box and overdrive, i cannot stress enough how important it is to regularly check these levels as oil can and does migrate between them, gearboxes die quite easily from abuse and overdrives die even faster from neglect your overdrive only holds a minimal amount of oil as standard (Fairey or Toro model)and the recommended mileage between checks is 600miles as far as i can make out, mine runs overfilled mostly to allow for leaks and blowing out of the breather my '65 109 daily driver at it's first mot 2 years ago, 200tdi powered i've 2x 88" as well but neither of those are on the road at present, one was taken off the road just after getting the 109 on the road the other i've only owned for three years and only just got round to starting work on it, one day (if a miracle occurs) all three will be back on the road
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Mar 12, 2014 23:07:32 GMT
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Good lord that 109 is straight! Thanks for the reminder on the oil, I've been keeping an eye on the levels but not as religiously as I should. I'll make sure that changes. The gearbox and OD are both very good and I want them to stay that way.
The axle is a Salisbury. If anyone is interested the back cover is welded on the Rover axle and the diff unbolts while on the Salisbury the back over is bolted and the nose is part of the axle casting.
The new bolts and nylocs arrived today so I dropped the prop down. There as 90 degrees of backlash and about 1/4 inch of movement in and out on the flange. The retaining bolt had undone so much that the only reason it hadn't come off entirely was the UJ. This was what I was expecting really and after a trip to Halfords for a 32mm socket I did it up until there was no play in the flange. This reduced backlash to about 10 - 15 degrees and the bearings felt 'okay'.
I then got a long breaker and did it up another 8th of a turn to further crush the squash washer and get a bit of preload on the bearings. The backlast was the same but it span a lot nicer. I took her out for a test drive and the vibration was a lot better. I'm not sure if it's completely gone, I doubt it because I think the bearings have taken a bit of a hammering despite the issue being investigated as soon as it arose.
The plan is to keep driving 'as is' for the time being. If the problem returns I'll drop the rear prop off. When uni is over I'll just replace the axle.
James
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Mar 13, 2014 19:39:33 GMT
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I took your advice nitemare and topped up the oil in the gearbox, transfer box and steering box. I'm using EP80/90 GL4 for these which is meant to be okay with syncro rings and GL5 in the axles because it's cheaper. Are there any better oils to use? Also I couldn't see where to top up the overdrive. I looked online but I've not been able to find anything. James
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Mar 14, 2014 13:25:16 GMT
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fingers crossed that the pinion flange bolt had come loose.
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Mar 28, 2014 18:26:37 GMT
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Well it's been a few weeks and the vibration hasn't got worse although it hardly ever goes over 25 mph on my commute. I've managed to get a rebuilt axle on eBay for £58 but it's an earlier Rover type and it's in Loughborough! Hopefully the current axle will hold out for another few weeks. I'm just keeping it topped up with GL5 EP90. It's leaking a lot but I can live with it so long as it works. The gearbox and O/D use hardly any oil and neither does the engine which is good.
The front axle is still mostly leak free but has 90 degrees of backlash and one of swivel boots has now got a gash in it which I found today. It was hardly noticeable but has let water in so as a temporary fix I've filled it with oil. It probably goes some way to explaining why that tyre was locking up so easily...
Despite the problems I really love this car, maybe more for them because they are all so simple to fix and are relatively cheap unlike the Nissan which was amazing for 6 months and is now ruined!
After seeing a conversion kit go rather cheap on eBay the other week I'm rather tempted to do a Prima conversion at some point in the not to distant future. I'm sure a 200/300TDi is better but I much prefer the idea of a Perkins.
James
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Youre right, the simplicity is a fantastic thing, and the prices for parts are generally very good. Wheels are looking good, and at least you are going through getting bits sorted now, once they are done youll be enjoying drving it far more.
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Mar 29, 2014 19:52:38 GMT
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@sixtwoeight - Cheers, I'm finding it very satisfying to be able to slowly get it up to scratch. It's all part of the fun really and as I've got confidence in her not breaking down completely any time soon I do find driving a lot of fun! Violet Vivid - That's very kind of you to offer, I might have to take you up on that. You don't happen to have a spare 2.5 head do you? James
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Last Edit: Apr 2, 2014 20:42:45 GMT by metroman
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Well I had a shot at sorting out the axle. The oil seal is utterly destroyed and leaked a litre overnight. There was no way I was going to put a new seal in as I've got a new axle but I don't have time to fit it for a few weeks because I've got final exams and a dissertation to do so I had a go at something more bodgetastic... Got some string and wrapped it around the flange as many times as I could then tied it up as tight as I could. I pushed this into the diff with a screwdriver and then wrapped it with zip ties. Guess what? It only seems to have worked! James
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If it comes to it and the axle is going to be shot anyway just fill it up with liquid grease like you would use in the front swivels, it'll provide better lubrication than nothing and should stay in better.
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If the rope seal fails I will give that a go, cheers.
James
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