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the 6 bolts hold the pulley together and there are nuts on the back, to get it off you undo the centre bolt (should be pretty tight) and just pull it off.
If you want to then dissasemble the pulley the centre cup drops out and then you can access the 6 bolts.
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robw
Part of things
Posts: 90 
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Cheers mate. I'm used to Holden's and Rover does things...err...differently.
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robw
Part of things
Posts: 90
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So after a bit of research about which is the shortest water pump, timing cover, which dizzies and oil pumps will go with which cover etc etc etc I've decided to blank off the mechanical waterpump entirely, and install one of these when the time comes (https://daviescraig.com.au/product/ewp150-kit-12v-150lpm40gpm-remote-electric-water-pump-8060). Hopefully my transmission arrives next week, as will the water pump, I've located an edelbrock manifold and some P6 style rocker covers and might get some stuff done to make this thread more interesting  |
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robw
Part of things
Posts: 90
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Oct 29, 2021 10:26:00 GMT
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Well it's been ages since I've been on here. Progress is evident but slow due to life stuff. I've 100% comitted by selling the original engine - no going back now! Provided funds to get a Holley 390. I've got all the big parts now - the engine, box and I even have a diff on the way this week from an RN20 Hilux - which is a bit of a rare find here! Not cheap, either! I've cut out the battery tray, engine mount pillars and I'm about to cut out just enough of the transmission tunnel/firewall to fit the bellhousing. Thankfully it's all under the dash so far! I'll post pics once I've finished cutting. I was hoping to keep the BW M68 diff as I think it's strong enough but at 3.89:1 it was just going to be too short on the highway, plus the availability of parts and different ratios sucks so.... The diff I have coming is 4.11:1 but almost all Hilux diffs are interchangeable so Ishould be able to get a 3.5:1 or even a 3.08:1 to make it better on the highways. So that means I have to go t 5 studs, which will mean I'll have to change the fronts to match and I'll lose my mags I already have for it. For brakes I have a Datsun 4.5" servo and dual master which I'll either mount up on the wing almost in front of the engine, or mount it to the radiator support panel backwards and have a lever arrangement to actuate it... thoughts? So far I've been buying lots of parts and cutting stuff out. I'm looking forwards to INSTALLING something soon!!
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robw
Part of things
Posts: 90
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If you've ever wondered what an RN20 diff looks ![]() like next to a standard Cortina BW..   Overall the RN20 is wider by about 2cm, so I don't think it's worth shortening - I'll just play with wheel offset. |
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2022 6:06:23 GMT by robw
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robw
Part of things
Posts: 90
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So, what's wrong with this picture? Had a genuine giggle that this engine was advertised as "a good runner".  |
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Last Edit: Mar 4, 2022 6:17:03 GMT by robw
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Nothing wrong with that every rover V8 I've taken apart is the same! (to be fair to the seller you don't really notice it until you fit a new cam and see how much better it runs).
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robw
Part of things
Posts: 90
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Nothing wrong with that every rover V8 I've taken apart is the same! (to be fair to the seller you don't really notice it until you fit a new cam and see how much better it runs). I hold no grudges on the seller - it's all good. But what is funny (and the point of the picture) is that the 4th lobe (left of the journal) isn't hiding - it's worn down (smoothly, somehow) to the base circle! |
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Last Edit: Mar 5, 2022 5:02:43 GMT by robw
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I did notice that it's a common failing on RV8's, Both the donor engines I had gor the TR7V8 were the same.
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