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Jul 18, 2014 20:59:38 GMT
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I saw that sprint when it was in its bare shell stage!
I bought the original wheels of that car, which are now on my 1850!
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Jul 19, 2014 17:06:09 GMT
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love the original printed material !
is it in french or something, or just all nonsense words for artistic effect ?
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2014 17:06:24 GMT by darrenh
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Jul 22, 2014 20:03:55 GMT
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love the original printed material ! is it in french or something, or just all nonsense words for artistic effect ? its lorem ipsum (nonsense indeed), really unique though. I've been trying to keep my eyes open for more for all-sorts of cars not just triumphs and I've found nothing at all. |
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Well, as of two days ago the Toledo's been put to rest for a while in a warm and dry place. One of the mounts on the rear axle snapped whilst coming home from holiday. So I've spent some money on new transport (volvo s70 2.4t) as its essential and when some more funds have been put aside I'll be sourcing a sprint or 1850 axle to replace it.
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pauls0
Part of things
Posts: 31 
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Out of interest which mount? I've had quite a few Dolomites/Toledos and the only axle mount I ever had fail was a semi-trailing arm cup. What I did have many times was the trailing arm collapse in the section where the damper mounts, as it's a weak point. Eventually chopped up some other trailing arms and used those to plate the outside of the best set I had, and that cured it.
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Its the mount where the trailing arm joins the rear axle
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Sept 26, 2014 18:58:23 GMT
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So, it only took a month and a half to find a suitable replacement axle. Sorry for poor quality pics, I didn't take my camera. Here's the reason it HAD to be changed    As you can see the axle had split both sides of the trailing arm. So remove the old axle.  Not too hard really, just took it easy on the brake pipe and handbrake parts. Just bloody heavy.  Here's the new axle being prepped to go in, I pretty much had to swap nothing over as the brake pipes were better on the new axle and the drums in good condition. Its an 1850 axle which will make it a bit slower to accelerate but will bring motorway rpm down. As I actually do use this car on long trips so I'll get plenty of use out of it.  I also have news on the carb front, swapped the dellortos for a good condition set of solex c40 addhe's from an alfa gulia 1300 ti.   |
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,615
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Sept 26, 2014 19:11:20 GMT
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Shiny!
I suppose the old axle mounting points could have been welded & reinforced if you had problems getting a replacement. Scarey they could get like that.
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Sept 26, 2014 19:21:38 GMT
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Shiny! I suppose the old axle mounting points could have been welded & reinforced if you had problems getting a replacement. Scarey they could get like that. yep, but when the new axle only cost £25 thanks to late night ebaying, welding a heck of a lot more as I cant do it myself. The diff was starting to get winey on the 4.11 so getting a "new" one was my first choice =) providing this 1850 diff is quiet. |
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So I've done 200miles in her since diff change, all is well, the difference is amazing. She really cruises now. RPMs are down a lot at higher speeds and the noise is so much better, I couldn't tell you exactly how many as I don't have a rev counter but I used a friend as a speedo check in his car to take me at different speeds as the diff has thrown the speedo out quite a lot, it will now trundle along at 70-80 where as I'm sure other 1300 owners will confide that they only really like lower 60's on standard diffs. I did a full flush of brake fluid today as I only bled/had enough fluid for what I needed too do when I changed the axle which was when I noticed the lovely almost guiness colour of the fluid. I went through a good 4 litres of fluid today to ensure all pipes were fully clear of old fluid/crud. The brake pedal now is noticeably different and stiffer, from fluid change alone. There was quite a lot of sediment at the bottom of the older fluid, goodness knows what it was or where it was from. I used this kind of method to flush the fluid www.tangoautorepair.com/sitebuilder/images/Brake-Flush-3-292x211.jpgHalf filling a pint glass with new fluid so no air returns back into the system whilst I'm in the car pumping and checking that the master cyclinder is topped up. This gets rid of the need to tighten and loosen the nipple every press of the peddle. Carefully doing this for all corners of the car (well only one corner at the rear due to the way the rear brakes are piped in) I have also started pre-checks for the twin 40's. I have removed the standard carb today ready for installation of the new ones on Friday. And will be doing the front shocks this weekend crossed fingers. I can fit a maximum of 50mm trumpets on the carbs to allow for filters and no rubbing on the engine bay. Pictures soon! its also MOT time done done duuunnnnn. |
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Oct 23, 2014 19:23:48 GMT
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A minor setback on the MOT front, whilst ensuring all is "well" in my eyes at least changing bulb s to fresh ones, ensuring bolts are tight and she doesn't smell of petrol, I went to put the car back in its spot with a view to booking an MOT for the week to come, the button on the handbrake decided to pop out.  It looks as if the hook on the end of the rod on mine has snapped so now the handbrake is stuck half engaged. Gaaaaaahhh! Ahh well try and fix it or source another. I haven't been using the car too much recently so an extra thief deterrent meant bringing the steering wheel to keep in the cupboard. A few years ago I had my saloon nova broken into in the same spot. |
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I've been very lazy of late! Just ordered the handbrake lever and new cables as rimmer bros have 15% off atm. Also noticed fuel and temp gauges aren't reading fully (after warming car for 20mins) so I'm gunna check earths and connections to try to sort that and now my blower isn't working on full. Not using the ol' girl everyday for a month now seems to be taking its toll.
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oh and this happened. They idle fine, but as soon as you put load on them they spit fire, so I've taken them off for now and gone back to standard as I don't fancy a fire and will be looking into my engine timing in the future and possibly changing a few jets to make the mixture a little leaner.  |
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Here's the handbrake fix  I had to remove both front seats and centre carpet to get at it. Reconnecting it with the rubber boot was a pita.  |
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So I've owned her for a year now and went to give her a warm up even though it's raining. Here is what I was treated too after a charge of the battery. It's a good insight into the overall condition of the car as photos hide quite a lot!
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Nov 18, 2014 11:47:19 GMT
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Not using the ol' girl everyday for a month now seems to be taking its toll. I have to completely agree with that sir! I haven't used my Toledo for a month or so and it is letting me know about it by slowly shedding functionality...!!! I always say that the best thing to do with classic cars is to use them regularly but you can't always do that can you?! I will have to spend a bit of time giving my Toledo a bit of love tomorrow to show it I've not forgotten about it...!!! |
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Nov 18, 2014 12:22:31 GMT
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You'll need to throw a lot of money at that little engine to get those carbs to work! If you haven't done it already then some good old fashioned port smoothing / matching, an accuspark electronic ignition kit with Lucas gold coil and 8mm HT leads plus a K&N with corresponding carb needle would be a good first step to get cheap BHP that you'll be able to feel with your  dynometer - you probably need everything you can get to pull that higher gearing I would imagine, although saying that, probably about 80% of the pre-80's cars I've driven could easily pull tall gearing. Are you going to recalibrate your speedo? It would also be interesting to fit a Rev counter to see what revs it's now doing at 70. Good job, keep it up and have fun. |
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Much to my surprise, she flew through her MOT, minor advisories being slightly perished tyres and front lower suspension bushes starting to corrode. Tyres are because I fitted the standard wheels, so I'm back on the 13's again with decent tyres and I already have replacement suspension so all is good for now, another 300 miles and she will be showing 0 miles on the clock. MOT sheet shows I've nearly done 8000miles in her this year.
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I don't know about doing the speedo yet as it means I have to pull the gearbox which is a lot of effort at the moment as some-ones been borrowing my engine crane for the last 6-8 months(should really see about getting that back!!!), rev counter is something I've been searching for, decent external counters with pods (period ones) don't come up for sale very often. That and my eyes are wandering at all times on ebay haha!
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Dec 17, 2014 12:47:48 GMT
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I needed a rev counter and found one, it's an unbranded but period affair. Pretty simple install, just a matter of finding where the wires go, choosing where to put it and drilling a hole.  This is the diagram for negative earth.  I found this sheet inside the housing for the speedo whilst I was checking the bulbs which is a bonus as to what goes where.  The red wires are the bulbs, odd why red was used for both positive and negative sides, but I guess that has something to do with different installation on poisitive earth cars.  It works...  |
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