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Mar 21, 2007 23:24:56 GMT
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it bl**ody had to happen didnt it...
ok this is what I had been up to recently with my hunter.
1) adjusted the tappets 2) stripped carb, put back together, adjusted 3) adjusted the contacts points on the dizzy 4) got the overdrive working
and some other bits and bobs. This was two weeks back and the car was ok so far.
now this morning the sun was out and we decided to go to north wales with the family. Car was OK from here to near bangor. On the way back on the A55 it was ok, but I suddenly felt the engine dying.
There were some puffs from the back and within a few second the engine cut out completely. For a while it would restart, idle roughly, and as soon as you pressed the accelerator it would cut out. It sounded like when the mixture is too rich... anyway it go to a point where it would hardly start and there is a lot of smoke from the back. No it starts, but idles VERY roughly (sound like a dragster) and cuts out as soon as you touch the pedal.
any ideas??!?! here are some more symptoms
1) the smoke smells like unburnt petrol. I can't smell oil and the colour is think grey as opposed to blue.
2) water seemed fine, no leaks at all, and temperature was ok. checked the expansion tank and not a drop had gone.
3) I filled in the morning with 97 octance petrol, but had half a tank of normal unleaded already in it (with valve master additive). I am not sure about the petrol at all because it was from a texaco garage no one seems to ever use.
4) when I first went to sort out the tappets, there was hardly any clearance at all. I could barely push it any of the feeler gages. When I adjusted them, I redid it three times and followed the book to the letter. However, on completion, the noise which was the original reason I thought the tappets needed adjusting remained.
5) by the way I am not sure if this is related or not, but when I was turning the engine to adjust the tappets, the engine was truning very hard (had all the plugs out).
6) when it happened, there was no sound of anything breaking
anyway, somebody said on my other thread that there is nothing scary under the rocker cover, I am begining to regret I ever ventured that far. My dad says the same thing happened to his hunter 20 years ago and it turned out to be bunt valves...... anyway, any ideas welcome.
What I appreciate most is the quickest and most fool-proof way I can close in on what is the problem. I am really trying to avoid having to take the head out. I have ordered a compression tester off eBay to check the compressions, but even a low compression could be anything from piston rings to the valves. what makes me worried was how it all happened all of a sudden..
any ideas welcome!
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Last Edit: Mar 24, 2007 17:14:44 GMT by hajsaftar
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Mar 21, 2007 23:36:12 GMT
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hole in the diaphram in the carb?
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Mar 21, 2007 23:39:30 GMT
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hole in the diaphram in the carb? nope.. the diaphram does need changing (it has stretched a bit) but there is no hole and the air piston lifts with trothle before it cuts off. but anyway there is no hole
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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Mar 21, 2007 23:40:02 GMT
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get a old spark plug and smash the center out so u have a hollow tube that screws into the head. weld a piece of steel tube to whats left and connect a rubber tube with jublee clips to it and fit a airline pcl to the other end. connect a compressor with a paint spraying regulator wound down to 40 or so psi to the pcl connector. screw into head with relevent piston at tdc on comp' stroke and apply air (with compressor) with engine in gear and handbrake fully on so it does not turn engine. listen...... if you hear air coming fron the exhaust its an exhaust valve problem (burnt out bent not sealing etc) if its from the intake/carb then its the inlet valve...... if its from the engine oil filler its the rings broken/holed piston etc..... (although you will get a small blowback past the rings normally so don't take this as gospel unless excessive) repeat for all cylinders... thats how i check... crude but does the job... si tdc with engine in gear
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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Mar 21, 2007 23:41:45 GMT
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sound strangely and i don't know why it would be th case.... but.... the main jet hasnt fallen out for some bizare reason? si
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Mar 21, 2007 23:46:28 GMT
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sound strangely and I don't know why it would be th case.... but.... the main jet hasnt fallen out for some bizare reason? si I am not sure if I undrestand you right here. The carb in this card is with fixed jet. To change the mixture you have to raise or lower the needle from the air piston. I stripped the top of the carb on roadside, but the needle was there. I weakened the mixture slightly, it idled better (still with smoke), but only briefly, then it went back to how it was.
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Mar 21, 2007 23:51:39 GMT
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try a new condenser in the dizzy... its surprising how often that fixes "carb" problems.
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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sound strangely and I don't know why it would be th case.... but.... the main jet hasnt fallen out for some bizare reason? si I am not sure if I undrestand you right here. The carb in this card is with fixed jet. To change the mixture you have to raise or lower the needle from the air piston. I stripped the top of the carb on roadside, but the needle was there. I weakened the mixture slightly, it idled better (still with smoke), but only briefly, then it went back to how it was. a fixed jet .. then ignor whatbi said... wild rant to noing nothing about the carb in question... although i stick by the compression pressure loss thinbg i said..(till tomorrow and in realise i was drunk when i wrote this lol) si
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madmart
Part of things
love is: valvebounce in top gear
Posts: 559
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is it possible there could be a problem with the float or needle in the carb? could be flooding it also as previously mentioned the condenser or ive seen the ignition coil over heat and brake down causing similar probs
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try a new condenser in the dizzy... its surprising how often that fixes "carb" problems. while your there make sure the points havnt closed up.
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Mar 22, 2007 11:35:03 GMT
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Have you actually checked that there is fuel getting there, and it is not the old knackered fuel pump / collapsing fuel line / blocked filter trick? Sounds remarkably similar to an episode that I had with an old kit car.
BB
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Yesterday at 7:54, pogweasel wrote:
Nothing wrong with creature comforts. If I want masochism, I'll just go and slam my knackers in the fridge door for a bit.
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Mar 22, 2007 11:37:57 GMT
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I'm with BB - sounds like fuel starvation (having been silly enough to run my car out of fuel last year!). Spent ages looking for other symptoms before I admitted my stupidity. To be fair, the gauge wasn't working at the time!
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1986 Citroen 2CV Dolly Other things. Check out my Blog for the latest! www.hubnut.org
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Mar 22, 2007 11:39:55 GMT
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I'd go with the points/condensor first off.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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archieboy
Posted a lot
Volvo Amazon 2 door
Posts: 1,168
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Mar 22, 2007 11:44:26 GMT
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I'm assuming its got fresh fuel in it, i had similar problem in an old vauxhall victor years ago, every thing was stripped like you have done and all it turned out to be was old petrol, the car had sat for some time.
Just a thought.
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ImpManiac
Part of things
Imps... Imps... Imps...
Posts: 868
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Mar 22, 2007 12:57:42 GMT
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From what you've said, the first thing I'd do is a compression test. That should show up burnt valves or valve clearance issues. Did you tighten the lock nuts on the rocker arms when you did the tappet adjustment? By the way, I've never adjusted tappets on an OHV car , so I don't know if they even have lock nuts. It just sounds as though the clearances could have gone way off. "I'm"
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1966 Singer Chamois sprint/hillclimb car in white over blue two tone 1975 Triumph Stag long term project (over 20 years so far) in colour TBA 2003 Vauxhall Vectra GSi 3.2 in black sapphire
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Mar 22, 2007 13:34:11 GMT
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hi guys
this is just to answer some of the points raised
1) there doesn't seem to be problem with fuel. If anything it looks like too much fuel is getting there. I haven't had a chance to do anything with the car since it was towed back (this saturday should get some time) but on roadside, I did check the dizzy and the sparks were coming normally to the leads (got myself sparked in the process as well!). but i wouldn't know if the timing has screwed up.
2) I have to admitt to something stupid as well. All day I had driven the car for 50-60 mph. On the way back, I wondered if it would go to 70, and it reached 70 quite comfortably, I did 70 for no more than 5 seconds (honest), but when I backed off from the pedal to go back to 50, that's when I noticed the engine dying, and bascially instead of going back down to 50, it went to zero.. and you know the rest.
3) tomorrow I should have my compression tester in the mail. hopefuly I can rule out compression issues, because that would be serious nut ache for me.
4) someone said something about lock nuts on the tappets, yes there are lock nuts and yes I did tighten them . But anyway, wouldn't it bee odd that all the nuts come loose suddenly and at the same time? if it was only one cyclinder out, I would expect the engine to rev a bit but be rough etc..
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MaxN
Part of things
Posts: 482
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Mar 22, 2007 13:56:19 GMT
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My money would be on electrical Sounds just like the kind of trick my old Scrote would pull pull when it wanted a visit to my father so that he could show me the screw thread that I stripped over-tightening the points, or the cracks in the dizzy cap, or...........
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Mar 24, 2007 17:17:45 GMT
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ok, the old boy just fired up again half hour ago. rasied from the dead, and my balls are back where they should be..
don't really know what happened but I did these and after some huffing and puffing its back
1) changed condenser 2) changed diaphragm 3) changed contacts 4) reset static timing 5) changed air filter 6) cleaned the plugs 7) topped up with pertrol i KNOW is nice and freash..
so thanks to all, my RR is back from the dead!
CHEERS!
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Mar 24, 2007 17:19:14 GMT
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PS. whilst I was there, I also did a compression check on the cylinders. it was spot on 158-160-160-160
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Mar 24, 2007 17:19:15 GMT
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Yay!
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1987 Maestro 1.6 HL perkins diesel conversion 1986 Audi 100 Avant 1800cc on LPG 1979 Allegro Series 2 special 4 door 1500cc with vynil roof. IN BITS. HERITAGE ISSUES.
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