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Come to take the wheels off the car to find one has a locking wheel bolt on it, and typically, no 'key' from the prev owner. Anyone got any tips on how to get one off without damaging the alloy (bit tight to get the welder in to weld a bolt to it)? It's the type with 3 drilled holes in the top and the spinning collar.
cheers
steve
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You can get locking nut removers quite cheap - look on eBay.
However a few quid to tyre fitter should get him to use his own kit rather than you having to buy them.
Paul h
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Thanks for the ideas. Unfortunately definitely no key or any way of getting one. I have a feeling it was lost some time ago as that tyre is badly worn.Not road-legal so taking it somewhere isn't an option. Had a look on ebay and all the removing tools say not suitable for that type of locking nut. Looks like I'll have to try welding a nut to it.
cheers
Steve
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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I got my old ones off by hammering a twelve-pointed just-slightly-too-small socket on. Best to use ones you're not fond of, lol as they don't generally survive too well. Or come off again. I used old imperial ones that'd been gathering rust in a drawer for years
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Hi, if you can see the stud, try drlling the stud out from within it.
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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In the past I have been successful with the smacking over a socket method!
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1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec
1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
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Ive had this problem before think they are called McGard nuts. I spent a few hours drilling, cold chisel etc and got nowhere. Took it to local garage where the lad put a couple of tack welds to hold collar to centre bolt and stop it spinning and it came off with the usual socket hammered on. He got all 4 off in under 10 minutes. Tiny bit of burning to alloy in channel where bolt sits but not enough to be a problem.
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Paul
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,945
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I got my old ones off by hammering a twelve-pointed just-slightly-too-small socket on. Best to use ones you're not fond of, lol as they don't generally survive too well. Or come off again. I used old imperial ones that'd been gathering rust in a drawer for years Same here - old imperial socket I never use, BAM... |
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Last Edit: Jul 3, 2013 11:58:00 GMT by Paul
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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don't mess around with it or you will make it harder for the professionals to get it off, save yourself some time, money, sweat, tears and blood and get it to a good tyre place or find a mobile tyre fitter to come out
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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hahaha, oh jesus...
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1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec
1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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I got my old ones off by hammering a twelve-pointed just-slightly-too-small socket on. Best to use ones you're not fond of, lol as they don't generally survive too well. Or come off again. I used old imperial ones that'd been gathering rust in a drawer for years Same here - old imperial socket I never use, BAM... Only failed me once on a pugeot 206 where it just sheared off!!!! I think it was designed to do that,to just snatch the outer but to really bite the inner. Ended up doing a full engine swap with the bloody things stuck on!!!! As for those spinny ones on the op's car a hammered on socket does the biz everytime. |
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Oh while I remember I did get a set off an escort once by removing the drum through the big nut and then using a hammer and chisel to start it spinning off the locking thread from behind!!!!
Never know if that's a bit quicker.
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Crikey that's ^ a bit extreme!
Managed to get it off. Welded the collar to the main bit and battered on a socket, job done
Cheers for the tips.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Hi, if you can see the stud, try drlling the stud out from within it. You can't see the stud this type of locking nut totaly covers it pluss from the title it's a bolt not a nut and stud  they are the hardest to remove but never failed with hammering a non metric socket over one, as you hammer it on the spinning cover just cushes, they are very thin steel, try tightening the other 3 (or 4) nuts/bolts that can make the locking bolt easyer to undo. |
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Last Edit: Jul 4, 2013 10:34:58 GMT by bortaf
R.I.P photobucket
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shin2chin
Part of things
Making curse word cars slightly better
Posts: 820 
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I had to get a set of these off after the tire place torqued the curse word out of the key and broke the pins.
Step 1 - Using a small cold chisel carefully remove the spinning collar ( Mine were recessed quite deep in the wheel so was quite tricky)
Step 2 - Get a set of Irwin Bolt-grip sockets (other brands available!) hammer on the locking bolt and remove.
I was suprised how easy they were to remove, don't think it would take a professional scumbag very long.
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1977 PORSCHE 2.0na 924
1974 VW Beetle 1600
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Best way I have ever found to undo locking nuts is to just tighten all the other nuts/bolts as tight as possible and then just undo the locking one by hand.
Failing that on my Focus (which had the spinning collar ones) I hammered a socket over the collar, which then broke of and came out with the socket leaving the bolt exposed with the spinning collar no longer attached, used a smaller socket over the top of that and job done.
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are you friendly with your MOT testing station?.. if so, ask if you may borrow there brake testing rolling road, loosen the non locking wheel nuts, run it offending wheels on the rolling road a few times, then re-tighten wheel nuts... locking wheel will be loose, (make take a couple of attempts) this way has never failed me before, no mess, no agro...
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1970 Beetle 1600
1973 Rover P6 2000SC
1993 Audi 80 Avant 1.9TDI
1996 Transit SWB pop top camper, 2L Twink
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i tend to 'womble' any of the locking wheel removeing tools from scrap cars,
never needed one but just in case...
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