|
|
|
|
|
I've used my airbrush on cellulose and as above it is brilliant for touching in, the paint has to be pretty thin and you need several coats to get something to work with but the end results after a bit of flatting and polishing can be great, don't know how well it would work over a lacquered surface, I always seem to end up with a visible edge unless on dark solid colours that have been previously lacquered.
For water I find doing a panel or 2 at a time with everything drained out first works fine but a whole car tends to be problematic, I have the compressors in a pit with copper pipe leading to a separator and regulator at the hose connection.
If you are using cellulose there is very little supplier info and if there is any it is donkey's years old because you are not supposed to be using it on cars any more, from my experience I have used cellulose over several manufactures epoxy with no issues and over a 2 pack primer with no problems, never tried lacquering it though I find if you put plenty on it shines up very well and if waxed once or twice a year lasts fine.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2021 21:12:02 GMT |
Sorry I've not replied. It's all dabhand 's fault. I've been watching a few of the videos I was pointed at. (Thanks!) So... Airbrush. Good to know the idea works. I'm actually thinking of using it for things like this...  Which is a repair I did a while ago. At the moment it's just got POR15 on it and will be dulling down because it's not UV stable. So that needs taking off, filling (which I never did) priming and painting. One day I'll paint the whole wing. The other job for the airbrush is the new wing. Or bits of it. If I'm learning to paint I need to stack the odds in my favour a little. So the plan is to paint the wing off the car and then plug weld it on. The air brush would then be used to touch in the bits I welded which are all pretty much hidden behind trim anyway so no blending. Paint reactions... Interesting subject this. It also ties in with the filler over primer / filler on steel argument. Now given that I have no experience whatsoever this is what I'm thinking today. (Tomorrow I reserve the right to change my mind.) If I use a solvent primer then filler then another solvent paint there is an argument that the top solvent layer partly desolves the primer underneath, allowing the edge of the filler to lift. Effectively unsticking the edge of the filler so you can see it through the final paint. So the first thing I probably should avoid is filler over solvent paint. Now, as I understand it, the 2 pack primer I'm thinking about using should be fairly immune to paint reactions. And I have no idea what's on the car anyway so it's always going to be a punt. The UPOL clear is designed for SMART repairs. (Small & Medium Automotive Something Or Another, I'm Making This Up Now.) Basically the folks that come and blow in your bumper after somebody scuffed it in the car park. As such it's designed to not react with other paint (if you believe the blurb). Somewhere I've seen it written that it's ok over celly. And to prove the point, in one of the videos that dabhand pointed me at, the chap was using the UPOL clear over cellulose. So I think... Non-isocyanate 2 pack primer, followed by cellulose, followed by UPOL 2085 clear should be a win on a bare metal panel. So what about the rest of the car? Well the front wings will have had fair amount of repair work done. And this is still to do...  The wing bolts on so it'll probably get bolted off and have all the paint removed. Same could be true of the doors. So I may be able to avoid reactions on a lot of the car. The problem's are going to come when I tackle the windscreen surround and stuff like that. Wish me luck! James |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If bare metalling the panel or even painting a panel already painted the method I would use is the following:
Sand - finish p180 for high build primer, p320 for 2k/ direct gloss, P600 for basecoat
Degrease/ clean with panel wipe
Prime- epoxy primer first always ( dries waterproof & "seals" panel) either let go tacky and put on highbuild primer. Or alternatively let epoxy fry and sand, then apply highbuild
Flat highbuild using guidecoat (cheap black aerosol misted over primer) in desired grit depending on finish
Degrease with panel wipe
Paint - either basecoat (paint + thinner mixed 1:1. Requires clearcoat) or 2k/direct gloss (usually paint + hardner + 10 or 20% thinners mixed 3:2:10-20%)
Clearcoat/lacquer - a 2k product mixed 2:1:10-20% paint, hardner + percentage thinner.
Again my personal opinion: I wouldn't worry too much about isocyanates in your case. Relatively small panel and not a huge amount of over spray combined with a short exposure time. A good paint mask, gloves and goggles should be ok. I would stay as far away as possible from cellulose paints. Your asking for trouble esp mixing it.
Regarding the filler. Filler can be applied on bare metal but good practice is to epoxy prime first and do any repairs again and reprime the panel as above.
2k paints dry hard whereas cellulose is reactivated by thinners causing edge fry-ups and cracking.
Regards quantities: 300-400 ml of each should be suffice to paint one panel. Hardner comes in 1-5ltr tins
Paint in whichever quantity required
Clear coat again 0.5ltr to 5 ltr.
Can't go wrong with upol. It's cheap, cheerful and proven to do the job. I use it often and it gets the job done.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2021 17:34:47 GMT |
|
Following with intrigue. I bought Jawel's non-iso 2k before reading all the issues so will see how it goes. Headlight lids, rear panel and front wings to be done in the garage. Door and rear quarter bottoms in the summer, should such a thing arrive.
I've used their non-iso clear on blasted aluminium pieces and it seems to have cured OK - one done in the summer and one a couple of weeks ago, sneakily brought into the house to cure. Feeling apprehensive about their direct to gloss but you don't know if you don't try, and worst comes to worst I'll have bad paint on a few panels, so same position I'm in now.
|
| |
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2021 22:11:37 GMT |
Following with intrigue. I bought Jawel's non-iso 2k before reading all the issues so will see how it goes. Headlight lids, rear panel and front wings to be done in the garage. Door and rear quarter bottoms in the summer, should such a thing arrive. I've used their non-iso clear on blasted aluminium pieces and it seems to have cured OK - one done in the summer and one a couple of weeks ago, sneakily brought into the house to cure. Feeling apprehensive about their direct to gloss but you don't know if you don't try, and worst comes to worst I'll have bad paint on a few panels, so same position I'm in now. Apparently Jawel have discontinued their non-iso 2k now, which is great  I've not looked into it in any great detail but Rawlins appear to sell HMG Nisocoat 2 and Cromadex 800 non-iso paint systems. |
| |
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sorry I've not replied. It's all dabhand 's fault. I've been watching a few of the videos I was pointed at. (Thanks!) No problem, He's now using airbrushes and showing the differences between them and mini guns with the same size tips. |
| |
1993 Rover 220 Coupe
1972 MG Midget
|
|
|
|
|
|
No problem, He's now using airbrushes and showing the differences between them and mini guns with the same size tips. Yeah, so I see. And it's given me an idea which is always a dangerous thing. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Probably safer than having your own, though..  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mini guns are great for small touch ups and getting into all the little nooks and crannies. I usually use one to get the hard to get to places before I use a regular gravity gun to lay down a solid coat when painting a whole car. Keep up the good work.  |
| |
|
|
Recent Threads
LIKE 
I've not looked into it in any great detail but Rawlins appear to sell HMG Nisocoat 2 and Cromadex 800 non-iso paint systems.
