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Jan 28, 2013 22:23:05 GMT
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Apologies for not getting any shots of the rot before I cut it out, but I think you covered a lot of it in your photos above. I defintely think it'll be the right option to get another bulkhead and make it as mint as possible 'off' the car where I can get to the tricky parts much more easily. I was gutted that I couldn't make yours perfect at the time, but as you can see now, it's almost impossible to do this with the bulkhead in-situ. The only shots I did take on that cold day:    Did you get the extra layer of paint on? If not, you really ought to ASAP. I'm glad to hear it's a lot less draughty and noisy now. Hopefully less water ingress too until we can get a really nice bulkhead to go in there.... |
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Corbs
Part of things
Posts: 270 
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Jan 28, 2013 22:48:39 GMT
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Yeah I'm aiming to get the paint on tomorrow after the MOT, just keep forgetting to do the darn thing and then all of a sudden it's half 10 at night!
Thanks so much for your help Bruce, it was such a big thing that had been bothering me for ages, and my Dad before me!
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Jan 28, 2013 22:55:30 GMT
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My pleasure Dude. You know I love to practice my dodgy welding on other peoples cars.  My fave moment of that day - after all the work and crushed fingers getting the bonnet off, Rich arrives, looks at the freshly unbolted hinges and shows how it simply unclips. Both of us just stood there in disbelief. COCK! (well, that's what I was thinking anyway) |
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Drizz
Part of things
Posts: 337
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Hopefully less water ingress too Its a defender, thatll never happen lol |
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MGF VVC 160
MG Midget
Metro Turbo
200 BRM
Range Rover Classic TD5
Discovery Premium 300TDi
Defender 90
Rover 420 GSi Sport Turbo
Discovery Extreme 300TDi
Range Rover P38
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EmDee
Club Retro Rides Member
Committer of Autrocities.
Posts: 5,924
Club RR Member Number: 108
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1996 Defender 110 "Bender"EmDee
@emdee
Club Retro Rides Member 108
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Jan 29, 2013 11:10:48 GMT
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Nice work Corbs (and everyone else too), I love this thing  Tailgate will be sweet, would be good for beach party antics  |
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Corbs
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Jan 29, 2013 15:34:23 GMT
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Thanks! Just need to make it happen now.
Just got back from the MOT, failed on indicator stalk not staying put on right turns (Fairly easy fix - new stalk I think) and a wheel bearing but that's it! Pretty relieved! Need to order parts today and attempt to fix at the weekend.
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1996 Defender 110 "Bender"Robinxr4i
@robinxr4i
Club Retro Rides Member 143
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Jan 29, 2013 20:37:18 GMT
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Excellent stuff! Pity about it failing the MOT, but as long as you're relieved, always nice when it's not as bad as expected. Good luck with the fixings at the weekend |
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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Jan 30, 2013 13:00:13 GMT
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A Landy without rust holes just isn't right, it goes against nature!
At least wheel bearings are nice and easy...Shouldn't be long til you get a ticket.
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Koos
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Corbs
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Jan 30, 2013 18:23:46 GMT
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Yeah but what you can do is move the leaks around the car so it isn't always in the lap/crotch area |
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Getting out of the truck and not looking incontinent is always good!
My 80" used to dump it on your head when you got in, then drip persistently down my left shoulder til tht ran down to my crotch....
Not a good look.
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Koos
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Corbs
Part of things
Posts: 270
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BENDER MENDER
Bruce "So which side wheel bearing do we need to do?"
Me "Offside rear"
Bruce "You're sure?"
Me "Certain"
---3 hours later---
Me "Let me just check what the fail sheet sa.... oh curse word"
Bruce "Nearside rear?"
Me "Yep"
So what happened today - we replaced the offside rear wheel bearing with new inners, the races looked in good condition so we left the old ones in, which was just as well as when we took the nearside apart, the rear seal had broken down and horrible chocolatey sludge poured out.
Luckily we were able to re-use the seal from the offside, with the offside inners and the new races replacing the badly worn and scored ones, packed out with new grease, and a new drive flange gasket each side.
The result is no play in either side so fingers crossed for an MOT pass. Unfortunately the offside caliper is sticking something terrible BUT it wasn't a fail and the van still drives ok so may just be crud in between the disc and pad.
The downside is this meant we had no time to refit the front prop so still in 2WD mode. Oh well! It can wait for next time.
Also, we removed and replaced the faulty indicator stalk for a brand new one, and the difference is sublime! It's solid now, doesn't self cancel as soon as you start turning right, and feels tiiiiiight.
Once again, big thanks to Bruce for the help, garages, tools etc. Now just hope it passes the re-test next week so I can stick tax on it and enjoy!
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I must say, I did a proper LOL when you checked the failure sheet after doing the OS bearing! As you say, it was a good job we didn't use the new outer races in the OS, so at least we had enough to salvage the NS into a good working bearing. Thank f*** for the press....those races were in tight! Since we locked up and headed our seperate ways, I was thinking about the indicator stalk. I reckon the fact it previously hadn't been attached to the colum properly is the most likely cause of the eventual breakage of the locking/cancelling meachanism. Obviously it was beyond repair by the time we removed it, but I reckon if it had been secured properly ages ago, it wouldn't have broken. Having it properly secured onto the column now and the correctly fitted shrouds should also make the whole thing feel much more solid? Those missing screws certainly didn't help? So what's next? Prop for sure but as discussed, I reckon you really need to look into some new rear discs, pads and calipers. It'll be really nice to have less crusty discs. And a working caliper. Maybe another bearing for the NS....so you can have brand new rollers and more importantly, a brand new seal rather than those 2nd hand 'get you an MOT' ones. Good luck with the MOT Dude, fingers crossed it'll be fine. It was a fun day. Bender mending is always fun. |
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i've heard tell of folks "downgrading" the axle tubes to early spec, removing the seal in the axle tube so the bearings are wet lubed with EP90 from the diff. seems to make the bearings last longer, aslong as the oil is actually oil, and changed regularly
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Corbs
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Makes sense although when the outer seal breaks down, or if you remove it, does the diff oil drain out too?
MOT pass yesterday, woohoo!
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MOT pass yesterday, woohoo! WINNING! ;D WON!! ;D ;D ;D |
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Makes sense although when the outer seal breaks down, or if you remove it, does the diff oil drain out too? MOT pass yesterday, woohoo! yeah a dribble, you are right though, pro's and cons. although at least you can see when the seal is gone when its wet lubed. if the seal goes on grease lubed you don't really know about it until the extreme, and its been letting water in p.s gratz on the MOT |
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Last Edit: Feb 5, 2013 21:18:22 GMT by darrenh
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Corbs
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Ugh... FINALLY got around to put the front prop back in today (after farm track wheelspin embarrassment and wet cobbles defender drifting). Had to replace the bolts on the transfer box so took the flange off, seal out, went to put the new seal in and it's a bloody diff seal not a transfer box one! Have ordered a new one but it'll be tuesday when it arrives.
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Corbs
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Mar 13, 2013 23:29:26 GMT
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YES! No more drift rover/unable to get up small inclines land rover. New seal in, bearing greased, prop refitted and transfer box filled with lovely smelly oil. Here is a pic of me lying in the gutter bolting the prop up  Thanks to me ol' pal Sam for the help. |
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Mar 14, 2013 17:26:46 GMT
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I have a matching pot of grease! |
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