maf260
Part of things
Posts: 529
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Oct 21, 2012 15:23:44 GMT
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I've sheared a bolt off on my engine block. I have about 3mm protruding from the block and could do with some help please.
I've tried mole grips and tried some direct heat from a small blowtorch - nothing. I have also tried an impact driver on it to no avail. I'm going to buy an Irwin bolt extractor 8mm size and try that, but don't hold out a lot of hope as there's so little to grip.
Any ideas welcome please. I have no access to a welder and the bolt is very close to an open oil way (bolt sheared when removing the oil filter housing)
Thanks
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2012 19:38:27 GMT by maf260
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Oct 21, 2012 16:37:09 GMT
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Can you try cutting a slot into it and using that to turn it out. Another way is to drill it out retap and helicoil.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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Oct 21, 2012 16:44:13 GMT
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ahhhhh the dark art of sheared bolt extraction .......
The biggest problem is there is no set answer ... what works for one, won't work for another .. its a bit trial and error .....
I' ve tried all sorts over the years,with varying dgrees of success.
What diameter is the bolt? Can you cut it flush to the engine, and drill it out with a 'left handed' drill bit?
(i avoid extractors like the plague, to many issues with them)
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Oct 21, 2012 16:45:04 GMT
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Try welding a nut on the end.
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adamb
Part of things
Posts: 320
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Oct 21, 2012 16:45:37 GMT
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Drill into the centre and hammer in a torx bit, then use an impact gun on it
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Oct 21, 2012 16:56:54 GMT
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If there's not enough to weld a nut on, weld a washer on first and then a nut to the washer.
As said, extractors rarely work.
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Oct 21, 2012 16:57:34 GMT
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Try welding a nut on the end. If anything will get it out, this will. The extreme heat will usually crack it free, and nothing will grip it better than weld
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tuner
Part of things
Posts: 62
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Oct 21, 2012 18:22:40 GMT
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Best way to aproach this would be to find a short lenth of tube that fits snug over the stub then find a drill bit that fits down the tube nice and tight ,this will give you a good counter sink to start drilling straight at the centre of bolt don`t rush slower the better ,take it steady and work up sizes till just under size,i normally try to pick out start of thread and unwind ,takes a bit of practice but works ,don`t be tempted to force extractors in as they nearly always snap off and make matters worse,sorry for long post but it`s proberbly going to take longer to do than read this!
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maf260
Part of things
Posts: 529
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Oct 21, 2012 19:41:48 GMT
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Thanks for the plentiful ideas. I'd love to weld a bolt on as this seems to be the most common answer for successful removal, but I don't have access to a welder and have never welded anything in my life!
I'd rather not drill it as I think it could lead to more issues, but will resort to drilling if nothing else works. Failing that - anyone with a welder close to Chorleywood/Rickmansworth? near J18 of the M25!
Thanks
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Oct 21, 2012 19:56:12 GMT
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2012 19:56:41 GMT by ianboyd
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maf260
Part of things
Posts: 529
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Thanks for the heads up, but I have zero welding experience or knowledge. I can't take the car anywhere as the bolt has sheared for the oil filter housing so I cannot start it. I'm going to try the Irwin bolt extractors first (just ordered the right size for this bolt), I've had good experience of them. Drilling will be next if this doesn't work!
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adamb
Part of things
Posts: 320
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Tbh I think you're overly paranoid about drilling
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maf260
Part of things
Posts: 529
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Oct 22, 2012 10:02:20 GMT
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Tbh I think you're overly paranoid about drilling Paranoid? Not sure where you get that from, my previous post clearly says I'll try drilling next. My experience of drilling is that it can lead to more issues. The bolt hole is also very near an open oil way as well (so risks drilling swarg entering the engine) and so I'd prefer to explore other options before I think about drilling.
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Oct 22, 2012 10:21:15 GMT
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Best way to aproach this would be to find a short lenth of tube that fits snug over the stub then find a drill bit that fits down the tube nice and tight ,this will give you a good counter sink to start drilling straight at the centre of bolt don`t rush slower the better ,take it steady and work up sizes till just under size That's a great bit of advice, I've never heard of that before. It would've saved me loads of time doing the drilling but, more importantly, I probably wouldn't have put it off for so long if I'd heard of that. I had 4-5mm protruding and sheared it off with an extractor thing because I'd never welded before and was too scared to try. I taped everything up with that silver tape they use on hostages so that no little bits of metal would get in anywhere.
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Oct 24, 2012 19:01:49 GMT
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3mm isn't much but the Irwin bolt grip (other makes are available) work very well
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Oct 24, 2012 19:10:32 GMT
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Try welding a nut on the end. Agree. Never failed me yet.
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topaz
Part of things
Posts: 23
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Just picked up the latest issue of Practical Classics and there is a 3 page article showing all sorts of different ideas to shift a broken or seized bolt/stud - including some that haven't been mentioned above . . . . . . .
Mike
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mrx
Part of things
Posts: 134
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I just use plastercine and battery acid
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[/quote]I taped everything up with that silver tape they use on hostages so that no little bits of metal would get in anywhere.[/quote]
what a great way to describe duct-tape!
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I taped everything up with that silver tape they use on hostages so that no little bits of metal would get in anywhere. what a great way to describe duct-tape! What can I tell you? I do more work with hostages than ducting so I call it like I see it. The Practical Classics guide sounds worth having tucked away in the garage.
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