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how many have fitted alloys and regreted it to some extent? more than a year ago now i bought a set of pepperpots rims £20 XR2 spec wheel bolts £25 needed 1 tyre £33 used them for just under a year now and today i thought id throw the old steels on ready for the MOT just incase the alloys stick out too much for the testers liking bloooooooooooomin eck the change in performance!!! (the ones on it now are actually in grey primer thats an old picture) the steels are titchy little 12"ers wrapped in 145/80/R13's weigh about 5kgs each the pepperpots are 13" 165/60/R13 weigh near 8kgs each in the dry the peppers are great off the line grip wise but weight and larger diameter doesnt hand them well to acceleration, there great on a back road stick to the road like glue in the dry the steels spin up no bother off the line due to the silly narrowness of them but once gained grip accel like mad soon need second gear and seem to hit 60 alot faster than with the pots on and your doing 70 wothout realising it (oops :oops: ) okay you don't quite feel as safe maintaining 60 down a back road with steels :lol: and they understeer like mad in the wet random lil story there and i think ill be after some XR steels and ill wrap them in 165/50/R13 lighter and hopefully with the lower profile same outer diameter as some 1.1 steels yet ill still have the width of a pepperpot feel free to add pics and stories of your own
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once again rocking with 1117cc and 4 gears!
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topi
Posted a lot
It's a race car officer, I swear!
Posts: 1,039
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I like steels alot. I think my car looks truely badass with steels at the front, but I havn't got any wide enough to fill the rear arches. Banded steels are the best wheels in the world imo. Or Wellers with dish.
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alloys always have slow punctures - and fatter tyres which puncture / wear down when youre skint - its sods law
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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madmart
Part of things
love is: valvebounce in top gear
Posts: 559
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i had escort mk4 steelies on my mk1 with 165/70/13 stuck like glue on the twisty bits and it got up there ok, only problem i had was the body roll on the rear allowed the inside front wheel to spin when accelerating round roundabouts ect ive got a xr2/ghia one fitted now
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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steelies versus alloysslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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I had this with my fiesta, the bigger wheels alter the gearing and it makes the car feel a bit sluggish but quite liked it as it was a much nicer cruiser. When i switched to the 175/50s it went the other way, relly low geared and less economical but it didnt matter too much. You do notice the differance tho!
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steelies versus alloysRobinxr4i
@robinxr4i
Club Retro Rides Member 143
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Keep the steel and paint 'em red (lower the curse word!).... ....and yes my old red XR3i always felt faster on the 14" steels (had lush white hub caps), swapped them for 15" Rial alloys which where an inch wider and the performance dropped. Wish I had kept the steels on......... oh well its dead now anyway
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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yeah I have considered this before. you have the extra drag and contact friction from the wider tyres theoretically slowing you down which apart from econmic reasons is I imagine iswhy manufacturers use em as they suit the type of car and give better performance figures and MPG . plus the extra weight peperpots look a weighty design* and are an inch bigger and wider. I think if you had a wilder engine or set up you'd need em. best you could do with steels is wrap em in the best rubber you can find like slaters famous Metro. *Reason I said that is those euro lookers I had on the sapph, I recently renewed tyres on the 14x5.5 Ford wheels (and put em back on the sapph) and just carrying em they feel a lot lighter, look nowhere near as cool though. and as the Saphs so heavy it doesnt seem to make it slower.
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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The difference is probably more down to the size of the wheels than the material they are made out of. Rolling radius can make a surprising difference. Also replacing a small steel wheel and stock tyre package with larger alloys and tyres can actually increase the weight of the wheel/tyre package. Some of these bling alloys even weigh more than a steel wheel the same size does. Adding weight to the wheels does more than mess up your unsprung mass (harsher ride, less controlled suspension) but introduces additional rotational inertia which means the car accelerates slower and reduces brakig performance as well. It can also place additional stress on the wheel studs. I've read about problems in the US where 24 - 26" rims are "common" on "pimped out" rides where the wheels come off 'em as the hubs or lugs fail.
Going 12" - 13" I suspect the diffeence is in gearing rather than weight.
I don't think the rolling resistance or aero drag is going to be a massive issue on the Fiesta either, I "believe" it only makes small differences on fairly high end applications. On those though a small difference is worth having as it can be the win/lose difference.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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I don't think I've ever had a set of alloys that didn't lose air and it's suprising how heavy they can be. The Wellers I've got to go on my Mini are as light, if not lighter, than than the Cooper alloys they are replacing despite being wider.
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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The Jupiters on the Locost were pumped up to 30psi 2 years ago and are still at 28 / 29!
The 165/65 13s on steelies on the Polo weigh much more than the 185/60 14s on the jupiters on the Locost. Strange as the jupiters aren't really a lightweight design.
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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One of the major factors when changing wheels on a stock car if the width. If the car has camber, particularly positive camber, a different width or offset can mess up the scrub radius making the car feel twitchy and causing a degree of tramlining or what feels like bump steer.
When I went from stock 12" steels on my 1200 coupe to some magnesium Enkie Minilites with 185's the car became quite unpleasant to drive. The Minilites were lighter than the original wheels but the extra width and offset wreaked havoc with the carefully designed factory geometry.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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steelies versus alloysBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Well, I never regretted fitting my alloys until like autofive said, I found I needed a new tyre and I'm skint. 215/45/16's aren't cheap, or that easy to find And yes, I've had slow puctures since fitting alloys too! I'm tempted to sling on a set of stock 14in steels and tyres for the MOT as they're cheap as chips. the steels are titchy little 12"ers wrapped in 145/80/R13's Is this a typo?! ;D I like the look of those steelies you have on
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another think is when alloy wheels manage to electrolytically "weld" themselves to your drums or hubs. Not sure what combo of alloys is required to do this but a couple of cars mate have had we've been hammering like mad to get the alloy wheel off after the nuts were off.
Though I had somethig similar with a steel one once... I think that was jsut good old fashioned rust though...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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One of the major factors when changing wheels on a stock car if the width. If the car has camber, particularly positive camber, a different width or offset can mess up the scrub radius making the car feel twitchy and causing a degree of tramlining or what feels like bump steer. When I went from stock 12" steels on my 1200 coupe to some magnesium Enkie Minilites with 185's the car became quite unpleasant to drive. The Minilites were lighter than the original wheels but the extra width and offset wreaked havoc with the carefully designed factory geometry. I found exactly the same thing when I fitted the Compomotive TFs onto the Starlet, great on smooth roads but definitely more twitchy feeling on the lanes as they had much less offset. Performance didn't change as I made the effort to keep the rolling radius the same. But they looked good.
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steelies versus alloysBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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One of the major factors when changing wheels on a stock car if the width. If the car has camber, particularly positive camber, a different width or offset can mess up the scrub radius making the car feel twitchy and causing a degree of tramlining or what feels like bump steer. Aye, mine tramlines like a b@stard now. Steering is ridiculously heavy (no PAS), aquaplanes like a beehatch, and I get bump-steer cos I've lowered it some too. But it looks good, and the lardy old girl was never gonna be a street-racer! ;D Definitely something to consider for those who want their cars to handle better though!
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MWF
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,945
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I've had some traumatising ordeals with alloys, especially a set of Momo's I had.
Going down all the time leading to tyres blowing. Buckling, ovaling and cracking.
But that said the Ford 7-spokes I've had have been no problem at all, not even loosing pressure in a couple of years of being stood while the car was in storage.
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filmidget
East Midlands
Mostly Lurking
Posts: 1,652
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Going 12"- 13" I suspect the diffeence is in gearing rather than weight. Steelies combo dia = 537mm Alloy combo dia = 528mm The alloys should be the lower geared, not higher... however in the piccy the alloy combo look bigger? the steels are titchy little 12"ers wrapped in 145/80/ R13's weigh about 5kgs each Although I wonder if that has something to do with it?
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'79 MG Midget 1500 - Still patiently awaiting attention '02 Vauxhall Astra 1.8 Elegance(!) - Better than you might think '03 Mazda MX5 - All new and shiny looking (thanks to Antony at Rust Republic) '09 Renault Clio - Needs to go.
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Aren't they 185/60s on your Pepperpots?
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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on the kitten i went from steels, with 4 odd tyres of varying qualities and ages to some cobra slot mags with hard old camacs on it back to steels with 4 brand new falkens on.... the first set of steels where un predictable and wibblepoo, entirly down to the tyres though, the alloys aquaplained like no bodies business and where quite hard and old so spun pretty easy, but the falkens and orignal steels are by far the best, its on rails!! watch out for a low sleak kitten wearing alloys this year though..... make over time!
on my bros mk1 crx 1500 we went from 15x7 alloys to a set of the original alloys and even with old tyres on them the originals where far more nimble and fun!
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ive always found giving the edges of the rim where the tyres sit a damn good clean before the tyres go on helps to prevent slow punctures. ive never had any probs with them anyway.
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