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Jan 20, 2020 15:30:58 GMT
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Teaching the young fella to do some burnout's hey....well it looks like that on that first photo doesn't it....
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Teaching the young fella to do some burnout's hey....well it looks like that on that first photo doesn't it.... I don't dare to really try on dry roads. These wider tires have a lot of drip to overcome and I'm scared of killing the diff. But, having said that... There was a large deposit of gravel/sand on that same piece of asphalt and I did show my boy what you can do on that with a rear wheel driven car. I'll not forget the look on his face when we went from spinning the wheels on the gravel to the grip coming back upon releasing the brakes and rolling off the gravel. It gave the car a nice swoop and his look of amazement, surprise at the sudden movement and sheer fun was something to remember... I think the Granada gained a lot of extra interest from him! |
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Hello Alex, Nice new advitar. Lovely to see the car looking stunning and thanks for taking the time to set up a photo-shoot with Rustin Beiber in OZ! Only slightly jealous, but thankful that you are holding off finishing your car to enable me to catch up with mine - you're a true gent...  retrotoe Very nice example - Does it have a sunroof? You always get me to break a smile or simply burt out in laughter! Rustin Bieber, haha, I think my boy would be offended at the comparison, lol... Hey, you know it right, anything for a friend! But do keep it up so I can get at it again! ;-) |
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Nothing of value to add, other than saying Happy New Year
And great to see you passing the love on to the next generation.
Car looking good as always.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Nothing of value to add, other than saying Happy New Year And great to see you passing the love on to the next generation. Car looking good as always. Thanks a lot! And don't think there's no value in a post like yours! To me there certainly is! We're thankfully a very close family and I really put in the effort to keep it like that. It's a bit of a shame that when I was really building my car, my boy was a little too small. But maybe in the future he'll take a more active role in the hobby. I'll try and rope him in while doing the small fixes I need done... I can't wait to get into the car again. I've decided to bite the bullit and probably fit a new rack as this type is about a third of the cost of the original type. And I've got that procedure down, lol. Better start looking at the shopping list! Funds are a bit tight though, but I've got to get it right soon, as May (RR weekender) is coming soon with the way time has a habit of passing these days... Anyone know what type of thread the oil pressure sender on a Cosworth BOB engine is? I need to find a way to put a T in there to run the mechanical gauge as well. I'm really excited to get going again. Although I'd like for the weather to warm a bit as I need to start with a very good clear out in the garage and it's just too cold in there now! |
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Jan 22, 2020 12:18:49 GMT
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Sow the seeds young, my lad was interested in the minor when we first got it (he was 11) but kind of lost interest in his teens, now though at 17 he is talking about blowing next years student load on an early 110 defender to restore.
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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Jan 25, 2020 14:52:20 GMT
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no sunroof i think thats what saved it  It probably needs a 24 hour armed guard to keep it saved these days! |
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Jan 29, 2020 12:18:28 GMT
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Well, looking into steering racks and stuff, I've come to find that my conclusion on this type being cheaper is dead wrong. It's just that the suppliers are more sneaky about informing you of additional charges. And the ones I do find cheap are from Latvia... So in the end a newly rebuilt (they do not seem to be reproduced fully new) rack is at least 450 euro's plus shipping (twice as my unit must be returned and accepted otherwise a 225 charge applies). So knowing the one I have is working fine, just is said to have some play in the steering arms to rack joints, I'll now be looking at changing out the steering arms/rods. The new rack is a ZF type and has a completely different way of mounting the inner tie rods to the internals versus my original rack. It threads into the internals instead of having the joint cover screw onto the internals with added spring and seat etc. This tie rod is the one I should need. I've found the following: Manufacturer numbers: # 6103581 # 81GB3K519AA # 6132990 # 81GB3L519AA I've found this, at 123 euro's a piece + shipping, but from a reliable source although currently listed as not yet available.  www.motomobil.com/steering-tie-rod-end-inner-only-for-power-steering-zf-with,3237,61329900-1.html I've also found this on the same series of part numbers: at 12 euro's it sounds ridiculous, but it's a total unknown as far as the supplier goes and is also listed as currently unavailable. But one can always ask right?  alvadi.ee/en/kataloog/varuosa/113106/#!product-tab-oem In the uk I found a supplier that lists it for around 77 pounds... And that looks more like the first one which looks identical to my originals. But the part numbers suggest the other one should fit the same. www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/lemforder-7163678.html. Looking at this type of screw in rod, is it locked in place by anything other than locktite? It does seem to explain me not finding a locking pin of any kind... Anyone know?  If these rods are not mechanically locked in place, replacement should be doable on the car. Although with the rack on the bench flopping about a little, I was not able to get them off. Don't know if they also thread in the normal way or opposite. In order to avoid loading the pinion gear I'd make sure the inner part with the teeth is locked in place and cannot rotate. Depending on what I can get, the uk one would seem to be the most sure bet and still cheaper than the german one, this can be a cheap or moderately expensive job. But it just needs to be right. I don't expect it to do anything for the wobble but for alignment, tire wear and general predictability of road handling it's good anyway. I'm also considering ordering new discs at the same time, as the wobble is similar to the brake judder from warped disks, but I can't really think they are bad. We've measured them from the outside surfaces to show very little runout at all. My search for a set of wheels to just try for a bit is not going well... I could swap back to front, but at considerable risk of catching and doing damage to the wing edges with the tires as they are wider in the back. Well, the good thing is, I'm looking into things at least... Actually working on the car well, if the weather will cooperate this weekend, I may actually get something done. |
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Jan 29, 2020 13:03:29 GMT
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That type of design often has a tab washer of some sort locking it in place, usually just need bending out of the way with a small chisel (or sharpened old screwdriver!).
As they differed depending on who made the rack really you have to pull the gaiter off clean it all up and work out what you have got.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Jan 29, 2020 14:06:28 GMT
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That type of design often has a tab washer of some sort locking it in place, usually just need bending out of the way with a small chisel (or sharpened old screwdriver!). As they differed depending on who made the rack really you have to pull the gaiter off clean it all up and work out what you have got. Thanks, I'll look out for something like that then... I'll see what I can do. If I'm going to be replacing them I need to get them of first anyway... Should be leak free given the reservoir not needing filling since I replaced the unit so pulling a gaiter should be easy enough... I fear getting the thing to budge more, lol |
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Jan 30, 2020 10:58:19 GMT
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Well, call me dumb, impatient and more words with a similar meaning, but....
... I went ahead and just bought a set of the cheaper inner tie rods. If they are wrong I'm not much out of pocket and if they are right, I only have to do the job once as I have the parts ready.
I also arranged to borrow a set of gauges that should let me confirm measurements for spigot rings and centre caps so I can order these as well.
For the rear centre caps I'll need some adapters that I can hopefully get drawn up and 3d printed in black at work. The stub axle sticks out by 5mm so I can't just put the caps on...
If all goes to plan I will have those on order next week so the weekend of the 8th and 9th I may actually try and get to grips with the wheels and wobble issue.
Still contemplating buying discs as well as the only non new parts although they were nw to the car before the restoration.
This weekend I hope to fix an issue with the door closing only when closed gently, but bouncing back when closed normally. And changing out the motors on the central locking, which don't seem to send signals anymore... The door closing issue might also be related to those motors as they are hard linked to the levers operating the lock.
I'm keen to dive in, less keen to do all the prep...
I had hoped to be able to start work on clearing the garage on friday, but now I suddenly have an appointment at the vet as I think our dog either inhaled something or has a respitory issue. Either way theres a worry there that needs to be dealt with.
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Jan 30, 2020 13:55:55 GMT
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Jan 30, 2020 15:12:24 GMT
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A friend of mine from here suggested the very same thing that I was just researching. The comment that bigger sensors can damage the t-pieces I have since seen confirmed on the internet. Although the BOB only has a switch to put out a light, so not a huge thing I believe. I think I should need the following to get it all connected up. I do hate that these things have standard lengths. I'm only going to need a max of three feet oil line after relocation, but I must stow away six. Shortening the original line is why I now need to buy a new one. That plastic has proven impossible to get seated on the barb of the fitting. Heating and it's too soft and sets loose. Freezing the fitting and barb, no luck... I concede and will buy new.  In my view here I have the remote kit, an adapter for the remote set to the plastic line, then the adapter to bolt on to the back of the gauge at the other end of the plastic line, completing my oil pressure gauge circuit. The original BON switch screws into the 1/4"port of the remote T. The only thing I cannot remember is whether the gauge needs some sort of extra sender or whether there was only a direct take-off in the original 2.6 litre Cologne block. Edit: damned, in euro's there's anothe 100 gone... (including shipping) |
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Jan 30, 2020 19:07:15 GMT
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Yes, the fixed length is not ideal. But if you really want a shorter piece, I bet a hydraulics company will make you a shorter one if you really want to. Or you could get some AN hose and fittings and make it - and see another 100 euros leave your wallet...
I just made the fixed length work. Not the neatest but you do what you gotta do.
Gustaf
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Jan 30, 2020 21:28:15 GMT
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This weekend I hope to fix an issue with the door closing only when closed gently, but bouncing back when closed normally....
Have you tried to close your doors normally with the windows down?
When I was young and strong etc etc I did up an old car after fitting new rubbers etc the doors did not close properly. Only slowly would work. With the windows down I did not have a problem. I can't really remember but I think I left a vent open or something that solved the problem.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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This weekend I hope to fix an issue with the door closing only when closed gently, but bouncing back when closed normally.... Have you tried to close your doors normally with the windows down? When I was young and strong etc etc I did up an old car after fitting new rubbers etc the doors did not close properly. Only slowly would work. With the windows down I did not have a problem. I can't really remember but I think I left a vent open or something that solved the problem. Good suggestion, but it's something else in this case. The doors used to close ok with these rubbers fitted. I have tried with the window down, yes, and I've got the same problem still. It's also directly related to temperature. When the car has been in the sun, the door closes normally. Only when cold like the past months, it acts up. I think some lubrication is in order. I'm pretty sure it'll be something simple. I hope so at least... I do look forward to diving in. But the weather predictions are not favorable. |
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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So weekend is here and either weather is cold and wet. I'm not feeling very well myself with a hefty cold possibly more, lol. But there was a dry spell just a few minutes too short to have the car not get wet...but I got back to it!
I feel a little proud of myself for doing so. And I got at least two things fixed.
I started by taking off a wheel to take measurements for the spigot rings and centre caps. I finally did not forget to bring a rather large caliper for that from work which made it easy. I've now ordered the rings.
Next up I did a quick check to see if I'd really need the proposed oil sender relocation kit. And I definitely do. The bob design puts the external thermostat so close to the oil sender location that putting a direct t-piece would foul the thermostat. With that clear I'm inclined to order that stuff as well. I don't think I can save in shipping through someone in the UK as a middleman so will bite the bullet tomorrow...
With those two looked at and a course of action decided upon I went for the first real fix.
It was bothering me no end that closing the driverside door on the granada was next to impossible. The softer one tried the more successful it was. But it was hard getting it to close fully even like that. It couldn't really be anything serious I thought as it's not a complicated system.
I took of the door card which was a drama. Those clips hold so tight that you break a dozen while doing so. And I had a pretty good tool for it. Anyway I got the panel off, cut the water barrier as it was stuck down pretty well. With access to the rear i could see the levers and mechanism not moving freely. They are cleanish, but the grease seemed to have solidified in this cold weather. Cleaning and re-greasing, moving it all about a bit and it got much smoother and the door closed normally again. Success!!
As I was in there now anyway, I also swapped out the central locking motors. These were a cheap ish aftermarket universal kit type and were just done. The boots on them had perished and I think that did them in. The signals for open and close weren't sent properly anymore. The new motors, though different had the mounting holes in the same places. The wires also were all the same colours. I swapped motor one out and while hooking it up my foldable mirrors sprang to life. So my diagnosis was right. Hooking up the last wire made the system go crazy. With that one of it worked fine...
On to the other side then. Thinking that matched motors would probably fix that issue. Rinse and repeat and the panel was off, the motor swapped and with the last wire connected on this side only the system again went crazy. As it was one of the signal wires I thought they may be swapped on this motor set. Tested that out on one side and it worked. Connected both sides and still ok. So I guess blue and green are reversed on these compared to the originals.
With that system working well for the first time in ages I started closing it all up. Put some new spare clips in the panels (now out of undamaged ones) and put it all back. Rain set in just 10 minutes too soon. But I finished it anyway. Wanted to be done with it and I hate the incomplete look of a partially stripped interior.
So now feeling really really cold I'm pleased I got two items fixed. And two others ready to do something about.
On to the gauges next I think. And the spigit rings will help test the wobble, but I'll wait for the new tie rods first...
Have a good one everyone!
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spot
Part of things
Posts: 105
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Alex, nice to read you sorted a few niggles. So glad now that I didn't suggest breaking out the hairdrier becsuse the door seals had gone hard and lost their squishiness!
Just a few random thoughts: If you have the old oil gauge pipe (or portion left - I know there is no way of reattaching that *** pipe), could you perhaps fit a 1/8NPT > (ODmm of pipe) push to connect elbow from the sender instead of the full supplied lenght? I think it may help to be a neater route for the pipe to run if the shorter lenght was used. Some are rated to 300F so plenty of headroom.
I was also thinking that if you use a 'tail' you would still have to find somewhere to mount it to; I think if you have the space then a simple manifold screwed to the block would be less grief...
Looked at postage rates: a few euros in it so no better off TBH!
BTW - At the risk of outting myself as an idiot, woz the 3/8UNF for?
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Last Edit: Feb 3, 2020 15:02:27 GMT by spot
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Alex, nice to read you sorted a few niggles. So glad now that I didn't suggest breaking out the hairdrier becsuse the door seals had gone hard and lost their squishiness! Just a few random thoughts: If you have the old oil gauge pipe (or portion left - I know there is no way of reattaching that *** pipe), could you perhaps fit a 1/8NPT > (ODmm of pipe) push to connect elbow from the sender instead of the full supplied lenght? I think it may help to be a neater route for the pipe to run if the shorter lenght was used. Some are rated to 300F so plenty of headroom. I was also thinking that if you use a 'tail' you would still have to find somewhere to mount it to; I think if you have the space then a simple manifold screwed to the block would be less grief... Looked at postage rates: a few euros in it so no better off TBH! BTW - At the risk of outting myself as an idiot, woz the 3/8UNF for? Hi! There is plenty of room for the remote oil thingy. There is no room for a direct fit of the t-piece in the original location. I'm not up to speed on hydraulic fittings that would or would not allow me to shorten the oil line. Could look I to that but in all honesty I guess I'll just try and find a not so obvious route for the oil line. The 3/8th piece is apparently necessary to get the oil line hooked up to the Ford gauge. Though the oil line looks identical to oem Ford, apparently the fittings are different from original. Hence the two adaptors. This combi should be correct to get the gauge completely connected. |
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2019-12-30 16.03.33 by quickrack, on Flickr
2020-01-04 14.06.58 by quickrack, on Flickr
2020-01-04 14.06.46 by quickrack, on Flickr
