1972 Granada Mk1 coupe build - Still going... 14-10-2024

Likes are always welcome, lol!

Ah, ok, that wasn't me then. I'd also think that drilling the center would weaken them.

Good tp hear about your Hollidays and also about your job!
Wishing you a very happy and healthy 2024!
23 was rough here also so looked forward to close it and now we go full trottle into 24!
Thom

Good news on the job, and Happy new year.

For the custom, I'd get a proper scan of the codes done before diving into the glowplugs or wiring, (or download Forscan and do it yourself) most of the simple code readers don't get all the codes. For the vibration / noise take a look at the lower engine mount that comes off the bottom / back of gearbox, they are usually the first ones to go and a simple job to change. The outer cv joints are usually get worse as you get near full steering lock, which doesen't sound like your issue.

Start stop is almost certainly the batteries, it needs the correct and expensive batteries to work properly, Personally I wouldn't worry too much about it, it does very little for fuel economy on a diesel anyway.

The seats are pretty simple, take it out, have a good look for any wiring damage, if nothing obvious try it with the motor disconnected to see if it is a motor or wiring fault, it could be simple as something has got in the mechanism and is jamming it. (it's easy to damage / dislodge something when changing the batteries)

"I'll check the mount you mentioned. It's not realy a vibration as much as a droning noise. But it's gone when you coast and comes back when you accelerate again or keep steady speed."

Definitely sounds like mounting (impending) failure ....

The brake pad warning is likely to be the wiring to them. It's nowhere near the quality of the ABS sensor wiring and suffers where it goes through the clips and at the connectors.

Well, my weekend turned out quite different from what I had expected. Not in the best of ways, but such is life. Virtually no time at all for anything including the Transit van...

I did go and get that code reader. Minding the noise while driving as much as I could. I have a feeling that taking left corners the noise under power is more noticeable. It remains hard to say. When I can I'll start with inspecting the mount. I looked up the part online and given what it is I'd figured that just looking at it wouldn't tell me too much ;-). I presume there shouldn't be too much movement if the part is doing what it should.

I did find a few minutes to see if the code reader would tell me anything, but after hooking it up it became apparent quite quickly that this unit has the exact same capabilities and limitations as my own. It just reads the main ecu and that says no codes present. But from earlier experience I know that the tripple A (ANWB over here) could see far more when I last had the same issue.

Back to the drawing board on that unfortunately. I'm looking into forscan but I'm not quite sure on what I need to aquire to work with that. As I'm expecting to drive this van for a longer while (and I'm a Ford person anyway) I don't think investing in that is a waste of money.

I'm a bit miffed that I didn't get more done though. I hate driving the van so much knowing there's some stuff to take care of. Especially if it's mechanical in nature. I also really would like to identify that new noise that the engine seems to make. I get the feeling I'm driving a time bomb with the counter missing, but with the potential of huge cost if it goes really wrong.

On the Granada front I see it is getting too little use. The older battery in it with the cold seems to lose charge quicker now. I needed it moved, to make use of one short little dry spell to get to my ladder so I could remove the x-mass lights from the roof gutter, but it was spinning over quite slowly. Thankfyully the engine usually catches quickly and it just started.

I put the car back with the bonnet released so I can add my charger for a bit soon.

Wow, it's been a while already! Time really does fly...

My excuse is that I've had the busiest period of work in my carreer of the last 5 or more years and that has drained me from a lot of energy. Working double the usual hours at the height of times. Add to that the lousy weather we've had and I just couldn't bring myself to diving under and into the cars issues.

Alas, they were getting worse. The droning noise, that was suggested to be the engine to gearbox mount, was growing louder. It's only there under power and seems to be more prominent in left turns, a little less in right turns. But going straight under power it's there and louder than at first. So I had to do something. The rough running when cold or wet was ever present. Only when the car was driven enough on a day that the heat was in the engine, I got to experience the puuuuurrrrrrfect purring of the engine. It's so nice and smooth at that point. That makes me extra annoyed when it won't run like that. I'm in two minds if it, at that time, is just as quiet as it was when I bought it or still a bit more noisy. As when cold, again, there's definitely an added noise while idling (above idle inside the car it's hard to judge, even with the door open). It's coming from the right side so the side where the distribution is and the multi v belt runs. I'm a bit scared of this noise. Perhaps a bearing for a roller or guide? I don't want to torpedo my engine, but I myself can't pinpoint it or narrow it down. But I'm convinced it's there and I'm not imagining it as even the wife commented on the van being loud and she always walks down that side to enter the car. Anyway, as I stated before, the first time I had noticed this rough running when cold/wet behaviour I got the ANWB (AAA) involved and they read the codes and there was a glow circuit code for plug 1. Subsequently I had the plugs changed at the next maintenance opportunity. The rough running was gone for a while, but all too quickly returned. I should have gone back to the garage but as it is 60km+ away from me and I need the van daily, it never got done.

So I started by buying the forscan adapter and downloading forscan. First order of business, the rough running. I was fully expecting to find the glow plug code present in the DTC list, but while forscan seemed to perfectly identify the vehicle and it's modules I didn't find what I was expecting. Basically I only had a DTC for the brake error and several for the window wipers that had drawm more than expected current. I guess being automatically activated by the rain sensor when they were on a frozen screen. Well at least that is the only situation I had with the wipers over winter and they pulled loose immediately as well.

I cleared the codes and reviewed them a day later. This time I had codes again. The brake one was gone, but the error on the dash still occurred. I had a BCM error about the parking system malfunctioning. No idea why had never ever had a warning of that kind. Cleared all codes again and drove for a bit. I now have to see if there's anything new.

So I did not really have any engine DTC's. And the DTC's I had were mostly concerning the BCM. So I'd like to look for that and see if there's anything there. But, this means I'm no closer to solving the rough running and the related higher fuel consumption. And it also doesn't provide any clues. So how to proceed. I'm not great with complex electronics but I'd like to verify the signals to the glow plugs. I also hear a lot about random issues from the ecu being in a water rich environment. So maybe check that out as well? But access is dreadful as far as I have seen.

Next up that droning noise. To me the description above points to suspecting the CV as it has at one time been run too long with a broken dust boot (before it was caught) and there was visible bluing on the metal where the balls sit when I did fix it. Obviously I didn't throw away your generous advice and checked the subframe/body to gearbox mount. It is pointing slightly downward. There is some downward movement possible with a breaker bar. Upward I had no way of providing pressure so no clue. Visually it looked ok, but we had already concluded that visuals alone would not cut it. Anyway, I can't conclude that it is defective. More advice on testing welcome. But I'd be inclined to preventative replacement anyway. I didn't have time to jack up the car and see if I I could feel anything/hear anything from the CV. So again, no progress and a growing amount of noise... What is wisdom?

I had two pictures to show...The image uploader seems to be malfunctioning. It inserts only the tags not the link...

I am inclined to buy the parts to make sure the mechanicals are fine: new drive shaft left and right, so all joints are new, all dust covers are new (as it is only a waiting game to see when the inner gearbox side dust boots will tear even though they see less movement) and adding the mount for reassurance and to save on transport cost. I should be able to replace them at home, I was able to do 90% of the work required when I fixed the boots last time.

Any advice on how to proceed is welcome. I will check the codes again tomorrow as time permits.
By the way, I did confirm yesterday that when the engine is hot and running nicely is definitely sounds a lot healthier than when cold. Still have a little doubt about extra noise, but by far not as noticeable as when cold. It sounds pretty normal when fully warmed up.

Investigating the seat workings is lower on the list as annoying as it is. Moving the seat pops the fuse. And the heated bits don’t work on the driver side either. As far as I can find both seats share the fuse and as the other side is working, it’s not that! By the way, am I the only one who really hates those newfangled box type fuses? First off, they’re the worst to remove I’ve so far encountered. And it may just be me, but, I cannot judge them visually on being broken or not. I measured them to be sure. Also, why are they up to 8 euro’s a pop? It’s just insane! And why are there high and low versions? I’m going to have to check and test the seat wiring, no doubt this will mean popping a few fuses in the process. My solution, at least my idea, is to make an adapter from this expensive type to the usual big spade type using an inline fuse fitting. Soldering the ends to the box fuses prongs. This way I can pop a few cheapo fuses without much worry of the cost.

I’m a little frustrated if I’m being honest. Not only am I nothing further on the Transit, but the Granada is also still sitting as it was end of last season. That has it’s own list of things to do, most important to me are the rear end noises that still elude me as for a solution.

I guess I just need some mojo to get on with things. But being condemned to working outside it’s not so easy at this time. And I’d really like to get the car to 100 points this season. Knowing I can enjoy it without fear… But the daily needs to take priority as well, it's the daily... I need at least that to be reliable.

For the rough running I'd try a new filter and a dose of injector cleaner.

For the noise from the front of the engine, I'd try taking the belt off and running for a short time to see if the noise goes away, it could be an idler, alternator, water pump or the crank pulley.

For access to the ECU I seem to remember the easiest option was to take the LH headlamp out.