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picking up my latest project this afternoon: a 1969 Scimitar GTE i understand some the early ones are aluminium bodies instead of glass fibre, and they are prone to over heating, are rotting outriggers and body hoop (the steel bit that attaches the body to the chassis) anything else i should know? i will post some pics when i get back, also have to move this : so could be some time before i can reply
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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It it my imagination or is that a prtetty much rust free Mk3 Cortina 2 door shell? Whats the story with that then?
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2006 11:13:40 GMT by akku
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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it looks rust free - but the owner is a perfectionist - needs a bit of welding, had a vinyl roof which hid the rot, needs sills, inner sills front and rear valance etc, inner wings and A posts have been done and its been stripped for spares, but as its a two door shell theres still some value in it Its not mine but i have to assist in the move, part of the deal to transport the scimitar
This shell will probably be for sale - but i don't know for sure yet
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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Thought they were all glassfibre..... Ive never owned one, but have driven one, the Essex V6 is a tight fit in the engine bay and that, coupled with Reliant putting the spare wheel in front of the engine (as Ford did with the Mk4 Zephyr/Zodiac) meant that cooling was a bit marginal. Shouldnt be a problem with today's radiator technology though, and there's always the Kenlowe/Pacet option. Early Scimitars earned a bit of a reputation for catching fire, this was mainly down to the fuel pipe coming off the carb and spraying the engine with petrol.....by now I should think all those dodgy Reliant fuel pipe clips have been replaced, but it's worth checking... Like anything with a separate chassis, mud sits on top of it trapped by the body and rots its way through the outriggers, don't recall the Scim being any better/worse than anything else though. Biggest problem I should think now is getting hold of trim parts, and the fact that being glassfibre there's twice as much wiring to have trouble with. I'm envious though, they are a classy good-looking car, a British Gentleman's Express. Brian
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2006 11:25:12 GMT by briandamaged
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good lord a bit of a perfectionist? !!!!!!!!
A 2 door shell with an ID is worth something. Would help if it had doors and glass I guess. I bet 2dr doors are trixy to get hold of these days.
Nightmares could turn that into a decent motor in a weekend LOL.
I'm guessing by that shade of green its a pre-facelift?
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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heres what it looked like a couple of weeks ago, don't know its age but I believe it was a GT
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2006 11:26:04 GMT by Autofive
Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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Is this the same guy who had the red one which got all restored up and then he didn't think the paint was up to it and so he broke it and sold it off as a shell?
Theres "perfectionist" and then theres "obsessive compulsive disorder".
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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thats the man - he strives for perfection OCD also stands for obsessive Cortina Disorder
from what i understand, he bought the green one, as it was described, and looked, like a rust free example - but turned out to need more welding etc than he was prepared to do, so now the hunt is on for another rust free example
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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why not just sell the car on complete so someone has a reasonable chance of restoring it rather than breaking it up? Having owned a few Mk3s and looked a many more for sale, that looks like a decent enough shell and decent ones are hard to find these days. When I was into Vauxhalls I used to get rather annoyed/perplexed about a bunch of people in our club who professed to be enthusiasts but seemed to spend most of their time buying every example they could (to "save" it from being bought by a non-member who might, heaven forbid, drive the thing) then they'd sit it intheir garden let it rot for a bit and then break it up for spares. I saw dozens of decent useable/savable cars go this way. One reason why Vauxhalls of that era are so rare now. Nothing wrong with the cars, just some bizarre mania in the club... Might as well just given the things to banger racers and had done with it.
Hope this Cortina gets a happier ending.
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2006 11:55:01 GMT by akku
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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oh i think it will have a happy ending - its going to an enthusiast
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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scimmie
Part of things
1969 Reliant Scimitar GTE
Posts: 223
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;D Hi Autofive Early Scimitars are superb!!! I've owned my 1969 Scimitar GTE for over 8 years now. The very early Scimitars did have problems catching fire. This was mainly due to the brass fitment that the petrol pipe connects to used to come out off and spray fuel all over the engine! The problem was sorted by pinning the brass fitment in the carb: Check yours has been pinnedOther problems can be overheating, especially if the car has not been looked after. The radiator can be recored/uprated, fitting a Citroen BX cooling fan has been a very popular conversion for many Scimitar owners (but make sure you fit it to a relay) and will help keep your car cooler! Look for corrosion on the out-riggers on the chassis and the where the rear shock absorbers bolt onto the axle brackets. Changing the nylon timing gear for an all steel one is a good option too, as this will save a lot of expense later if the nylon toothed wheel breaks! The later Essex engines from 1972 were slightly uprated -about 15 bhp more. The early heads and inlet manifold were "O" ports and the later ones were called "D" ports and these were more effecient. Interior trim is about the hardest things to get, unless you have alot of money to get them recovered. Heres my Scim.The main dealer for Scimitars is Garham Walkers in Chester, where you will get the majority of parts. Their number is: 01244 381777 Most Scimitar owners are very friendly and helpful. I look forward to seeing the pictures of your new Scim! All the best Dave Poole the Scimitar Enthusiast! Checkout my own site: www.sporting-reliants.com
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don't know about you autofive but thats got my juices flowing. Nice one dave it looks beautiful on those slots
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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thanks for the info, here are the pics: as it looked when picked up the drivers door doesnt shut, as someone's nicked the lock some obvious front end damage, and rotten headlights its gone into storage for a couple of weeks the interior looks okay, seat vinyl (black) looks okay, sunroof doesnt leak as i sat in and drivers seat dry, after last nights rain, carpets manky but dry spares in the back, and an empty tin of filler - not a good sign outriggers look a bit crusty - but i havent had chance to have a good look yet or fire up the 3 litre not sure if this is a series two body on a series one chassis? is the winscreen a Mk1 capri screen?
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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looks good, whats the plans? is the winscreen a Mk1 capri screen? its a consul capri rear screen...
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don't know whats happening as yet with the Scimitar - was really pushed for time today and couldnt have a good look at it, depends how bad the chassis is. - if thres too much welding and outrigger replacement needed, then it will go into long term storage, if it can be sorted and mot'ed without too much ' body off' work then it will used as a daily from spring 2007 until the cortina is finished and then restored - maybe even a 2.9i conversion
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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Nice job you've done on the Scimitar. I suspect you found it, but much Scimitar information can be found over here www.scimitarweb.com/ including a buyers' guide. I'm buying a Scim too ;D Malcolm.
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I'd recomend one. They're great. You just sink down into the interior and look out over this enourmous bonnet before your driver (my dad - lol) plants his right foot and a sudden surge of torque carries you away. your's looks sweet- if a little in need of TLC. I understand it will have the earlier type of dashboard too? They're great toys to have like, although, don't be expecting to be saving money by running one Here is my dads. Apparantly, its not BROWN its yellow...
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also, a side note, but don't be fooled by those wheels. they're actually wheel trims hiding steels very much like your's rather than alloys as they first seem.
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scimmie
Part of things
1969 Reliant Scimitar GTE
Posts: 223
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re: not sure if this is a series two body on a series one chassis?Yes it looks like a SE5a body. The SE5a was produced from October 1971. Difference between SE5 and the SE5a = Basically the same shape, but SE5a has different badges, grill, door handles, rear lights, dashboard, slightly different chassis, uprated engine etc. Yours looks like the later engine too as the dipstick is on the drivers side of the engine. Early engines had dipsticks on the front timing cover. The original chassis number should be etched/stamped on the drivers side supension upright on the chassis in the engine bay. It should be underneath the cross member bar and right infront of the water pump pulley. It can be difficult to find as there is normally years of crud there. If you lightly sand down that area you should see it. Looks like you've got a nice little project. Should keep you busy Welcome to the world of Scimitars! Scimmie ;D
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