deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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so on to the next part.... The plenum. This has probably taken me 20+ hours to complete but I think it's been worth it. I have plenty of ally tube and flat bar left if anyone is interested in some, very good price Cut the bar to size using the old injector section so holes were correct. Made a template to place over tube allowing 6 sections to be the same. Pressed Tubes before cutting to line up with oval head inlet and itb's Screwed tubes into plate ready to send for welding as I don't have a tig welder Itb's just fit between rocker covers A couple of hours rotary filing each set to size. I always fancied the wrinkle finish paint so had a go. The finish is great, as long as you put a reasonable amount and 3 coats, you're cooking! I placed these in the oven at 120degrees C. The parts I couldn't fit in the I used a heat gun at 600 C I sourced the linkage bar from car builder solutions, made 3 identical throttle lever and installed all. The fuel rail has been shortened tapped and blanked. The ITB brackets still need to be adjust and then galvanised. I'm not sure wither to just clean up the bodies or wrinkle paint them to? what do you think? Oh, and I found these from a company called joujaam in Estonia..... me likey!!!
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Last Edit: Jun 10, 2013 9:05:49 GMT by deanchad
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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Jun 10, 2013 10:06:00 GMT
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Last Edit: Jun 10, 2013 10:11:01 GMT by sonus
Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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Jun 10, 2013 10:16:18 GMT
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It would be great having it 3.8ltr but the box would have a fit and throw its gears out!
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Jun 10, 2013 10:58:37 GMT
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Love that gritty paint! Looks amazing
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deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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Jun 26, 2013 20:16:46 GMT
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Had a while to wait for a few parts since I last posted. Back on it now. The ally sump has been proving difficult. A mate of mine welding company had great difficulty in the modification. It is finished but I'm not convinced it will hold. Because there is doubt, I've decided to get a steel sump fabricated. The reason being, I can adjust and modify myself if needed. It may be a little heavier but its piece of mind you see. On to the recent developments... I have been looking for a fitting for the head coolant output for a while with no luck. The only thing I could find was metal hose tail which was the correct size but the wrong thread, so I fired it onto the lathe to make it fit. Removed the thread and shoulder so a new thread could be cut. Waited for a die to arrive for China. It took 6 days and cost a tenner, actually pretty good value and quality. I didn't have a tap wrench that large so I used some grips and cutting oil. All went well and installation looks neat.
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deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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Jun 26, 2013 21:08:13 GMT
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With the power steering and a/c removed, an alternative route for the belt needed to be worked out. I thought about making a bracket (red) to adjust the alternator position and doing away with the belt tensioner (blue). This would have been a nightmare to adjust in the car. Retaining the tensioner was key, no scratting round on the floor all fingers and thumbs adjusting rods. The idler wheel however on the tensioner was flat. A bit of searching and emails to Gates and this turned up. Its an idler from a Chevrolet camaro, and does the job fine. I measured the length with string and order the belt off the bay. An amount was taken from the back of the thermostat housing to give more of a gap to cam belt. [img src="http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e262/dean_chad/esprit%20project%20June%202013%20on/DSC01190-1.jpg" style="max-width:100%;"]Manifolds, cops cover and temporary sump ordered, oh and Emerald ecu is ready for wiring up. More soon…..
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Last Edit: Jun 26, 2013 21:46:29 GMT by deanchad
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Jun 26, 2013 21:35:20 GMT
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Stunning work, keep up the progress!
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'73 3.0CS '81 Golf Gti 1.6 '83 Golf 20VT '87 M535i '86 Escort RS Turbo
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,062
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Jun 26, 2013 23:26:15 GMT
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Very nice indeed Should sound epic with the Alfa v6 on throttle bodies, and be more economical if mapped properly than the old slant 4
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deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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FINALLY…. The I.T.B’s are done. Just need thr trumpets to be delivered from Joujaam in Estonia. The fuel rail brackets were cut up, shortened and welded. As for the fuel rails, they have been shortened to suit 2 bodies. They needed drilling and tapping so the injectors could be held without any vibration, oh and a bit of polishing. After cleaning the welds up, the brackets just looked like curse word so I had a nose on internet and found a plating company literally next door to where I work! Had a word with Andy at A1-plating.co.uk this morning and by 12 pm…....They are done. Lovely job, they look like new, everyone likes a £10 bargain. I decided the bodies should match the inlet plenum and plug covers. So whilst the misses was away, took full advantage of the oven and blamed the paint smell on the freshly painted banister. First I made up a little turn table from the alternator belt idler pulley to get a even coat. Masked up all the areas that should have paint The shine before the bake So this was the idea I had a couple of months back That changed into this.... I’m using the original Alfa injector which fit nice in the triumph bodies with no modifications, Rigged up a 12v circuit to each Injector and blaster power spray through them for cleaning and testing. I don’t see the need in getting bigger injectors at the moment as I don’t want to go about 230bhp. Next step, dropping the engine into car for 2nd fitment
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mat91
Part of things
Posts: 399
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wow, nice work i would be very proud of that.
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The stupid is everywhere
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Anglia68
Posted a lot
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Posts: 2,050
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Superb bit of engineering, I'm liking this a lot.
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It's looking very good! I'm liking the black crinkle paint as well, gives it a nice factory look, also very nice that the injectorloom fits under the rockercover-cover I don't know what you are planning on doing, but make sure that you plumb the fuel rails in parallel and in a flow-through setup (don't create a "dead-end" for the fuel). This will minimize the chance on air lock and heat soak (being between and above the cilinders and all...). It will also make sure that all injectors will get an even flow rate and pressure.
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deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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I was going to pipe the fuel lines up parallel blanked because the old fuel rail looked to be the same Would you say this is not efficient? I thought, as the rails are shorter and further away then parallel blanked would be ok?
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Well it's not really about efficiency, it's more about heat and equal fuel flow. If you were to plumb the injectors all in series with a blanked rail, the last injector would get significantly lower pressure and flow compared to the first, the fuel will also be a lot hotter since it has time to heat up in the rail. OEM rails are usually slightly smaller diameter at the end of the rail to increase the pressure a bit and compensate for the pressure drop. It's also cheaper and easier to use a blanked rail so that's why must stock engines/setups have it this way. By plumbing each set of 2 throttlebodies in parallel to each other you will negate the pressure drop problem and by having them flow-through you won't have any trouble with the heat soak. When fuel flow is high enough you won't have a problem with a blanked rail, but driving slowly, city driving, and especially in the summer, there's a big chance you'll get into trouble. The fuel will boil and create vapor lock stalling the engine. For most high(er) output engines there are aftermarket flow through rail available, and that's for a reason
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deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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Cheers for that buddy I will keep it in mind when piping up the lines. Actually the rails are spot on for parallel lines, both sides are tapped. I will probably make up some banjo lines to hide them a little under the trumpets. Just popped into work this afternoon and found a package waiting for me Got to say a big thank you to Priit, the owner of JouJaam in Estonia for these..... Check out some of his work joujaamNow, I know they are long but its easier to take away, harder to had. After a bit of calculating , the inlet runner length should be 30cm total from inlet valve so a little trimming needed I was going to use the original connector rubber from the old chrome alfa inlet tubed as the internal bore is the same. But i'm not sure yet...
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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That's one damn fine looking engine! Loving the engineering.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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Cheers pal. Anyone know of any other way I could attach the stacks?
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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Here's a crop of a photo I have of the stacks on paulw's slingshot. The trumpet actually slips inside a counterbore in the top of the injector body (down to a step in the bore), which has a split in it and a single allen head pinch bolt that clamps the split down to hold the trumpet tight. Don't know if that arrangement would work in your situation but it might give you something to mull over.
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Last Edit: Jul 2, 2013 21:21:34 GMT by Seth
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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deanchad
Part of things
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/131936
Posts: 142
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Ive been trawling the internet for something similar........... pipe clamps?
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300mm from valve to trumpet is quite short, I'm aiming for 360 to 380 in my Citroen, but depends how your engine responds to tract lengths I guess, might be vastly different for an alfa V6!
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