Looking good mate, love the GT and had a rubber bumper many years ago. So, for the seats, I reckon MX-5 ones would look pretty good, I have a load of black fleece type material if you want some (I'm in Shotley Gate) to re-cover the interior and I fitted my speakers in the rear door cards (I know it doesn't have rear doors but I'm sure you know where I mean) I had to cut out spacers from MDF so they fitted but the sound was pretty good
cheers guys, aha the attention to detail distracts me from the larger issues it has
funny you should mention mx5 seats, I'm kinda torn between them or some classic style leather bucket seats at the moment, though these current ones are ridiculously soft so make the ride seem better than it is
if that material is hard wearing enough to be used as carpet i might be tempted as I'm not all too keen on shelling out £100+ on a full carpet set ( i am a student after all!)
and yeah i know what you mean about the speakers, i was trying to trial fit them there this morning and i was wondering about how to get around the fact that theres structural metal in the was, i might have to get some MDF out from somewhere in that case
ah thats fair enough, well the interior panels are currently waiting to be re covered in black vinyl, though i have been experimenting with spray painting the vinyl black and it doesnt look too bad so far..
been doing a few odds and sods to the B in the past few weeks before i go back to uni, first of which being that ive finally moved my speakers from being sat on the floor
Got a couple of mgb door cards with speakers for £16 posted which was a nice little bargain, in black too
already got holes for speakers which is ideal for me, came with some rather ancient looking speakers, although they did still work, they got swapped for my newer halfords clearance specials lol
the rather temporary looking wiring is made up of spare wire i had leftover from when i made a couple of electric guitars a couple of years ago, will probably get something a bit more durable looking installed in the future..
overall, big improvement in terms of sound quality and looks, just need to get the rest of the interior converted to black, more on that in a bit
Then after seeing the unfortunate fire in a really lovely BMW on here and seeing the rather.. tired look of the fuel hoses on my car i set about swapping them for a new set just to be on the safe side, i changed the crankcase breather tubes too as they looked a bit old as well
spot the difference..
so the new stuff arrived and i got to soaking ancient jubilee clips in gt85 and getting the old stuff off, it turns out the rubber inside the old hoses was in pretty good nick but ah well, better safe than sorry
the new set even came with an in line fuel filter which i put on too
and then it kinda went downhill.. on the way back from a trip to B&Q to get some more sandpaper for my roof painting (more on that in a bit) the car stuttered a few times, giving me no power and eventually came to a halt, i managed to limp into a layby and after waiting a little while managed to get home.
then a couple of days later the same thing happened (while i was on a test drive before i went on a big trip! which i subsequently got a lift off someone else for ) which had me confused a bit
i kinda left it cos the car wasnt doing many miles then it happened a third time and this time wouldnt start up again :/ got towed home by my dad with the tow rope tied around the steering rack.. (probably not a great idea but it was pretty sturdy ) and it seemed fuel starvation was the cause.
more specifically the inline fuel filter which was causing a pretty sharp kink in the fuel hose
most people would have spotted this straight away, but i liked having the extra shiny stuff under the bonnet anywho, whipped out the filter and its been fine since
next update shall be the big rust removal/paint update, wooo!...
You need to put a bigger loop of hose in, thats all, definitely keep the filter in there, especially if the car is still on its factory tank! It'll have 35+ years of cack in it to happily gunk up your carbs
Yeah that'll probably be the long term plan, though ive run the tank pretty dry on occasion and its not appeared to drag too much plop through
Right so on to the cosmetic rust hunting. This concerns two main areas, under the chrome sill covers and on the roof
first off i always had a feeling that the chrome sill covers could be hiding something nasty so i eventually plucked up the courage to take them off and found this
phew nowhere near as bad as i was fearing
though it does appear that at some point its had a rather lazy respray in green since they couldnt be bothered to take the sill covers off.. little sand back to bare metal and a quick spray with black for the time being
right on to the roof heres the sort of stuff i was dealing with
nasty crazed paint over the whole roof and little rust spots appearing, theres badly cracked paint on other bits of the car too but that can wait for another day
after getting some good advice on here, i got out the tools and got to work taking the roof back to bare metal
starting off with 80 grit sandpaper on the orbital sander to get the layers of paint off, and to give a good surface for the filler primer to adhere too
as i was going, i noticed little spots where clearly someone had done this before as there were little spots of red oxide primer here and there
in the end after a couple of days of annoying my neighbours with sanding and as the sander was starting to give up the ghost as the discs no longer wanted to stay on the sander.. i was left with a roof like this
after a spot of dusting and degreasing the roof, i got mixing up the 2 part primer (not particularly nice stuff) and set to work with the roller..
^after first coat
and after a few more coats, then it was a case of putting on a dust coat of black (which i did a bit thick..) before i got the 180 grit paper out to start sanding it back to primer
mmmmm orangepeeley lol
so now I'm currently part way through sanding that back before i roller on some nice gloss black
Soo these came up on ebay near me for not much.....
some genuine MGB LE alloys as fitted to the 1980 Limited Edition run out model
some are suffering from some bad corrosion, which i shall hopefully be sorting out myself, any tips will be gladly appreciated
the seller had one of the wheels apparently taken to a professional to have it refurbed and it looks decent..
and heres where i had a little go with some wet and dry paper i had lying around
and a couple of comparison shots
not entirely sure which i prefer at the moment out of the minilites and le's, but that decision can be made when the le's are back in decent shape..
theres also the question of how to paint the wheels when they are done, standard black with polished bits, black centre with polished rim, all black etc. the possibilities are endless! lol
also while i was whiling away the hours on a certain internet auction site, i may have bought a peco performance exhaust manifold which i shall now be in the process of tarting up for when i eventually modify the exhaust for a bit more noise and performance
the seller had one of the wheels apparently taken to a professional to have it refurbed and it looks decent..
Doesn't look bad, but it looks like whoever refurbed it made the mistake of clear-coating over the polished section. . . . .it doesn't adhere well due to the polished surface and starts to lift leaving white crazed patterns.
From the few sets of wheels I've done I've found it's best to;
Start at a coarse grade of paper (80-120ish) and work up through the grades, changing sanding direction with each grade -80 -120 -180 -240 -400 -600 -800 -1000 -1200 (you CAN stop here, but it depends how polished you want to go for) -1500 wet -2000 wet -2500 wet
IF YOU WANT A MIRROR POLISH. . . . . (If you just want a decent shine/slight mirror, skip this step) Use a selection of polishing wheels and mops with appropriate bars of compound again working from hardest/most coarse, to softest. . .You can get kits from various sites that include multiple different size/shape mops with arbors for use with electric drills. So far I haven't tried this yet, but I plan on getting a kit.
FINAL STEP Use a decent quality polish (Mothers Mag & Alu, Meguiars NXT All Metal, Belgom. . .etc) to finish.
If you want polished and painted sections I find it better to get the polished parts done, then mask up, 2 coats of etch, 2 coats of colour. Allow to dry, remove masking tape, if it leaves any residue/glue, clean off with thinners and a soft cloth.
Yeah there are better guides by people that know their sh*t more than I do, butttt that's the way I do it, and it works for me ;D
This was done to 800grit, then Autosol'd. . . . (autosol wouldn't be my first choice, it was all I had to hand)
And this was after paint, literally just after removing the masking, so there was a bit of glue and a couple of small paint bleeds, gives a good idea though
It's INCREDIBLY time consuming and painful, and if you want them to stay decent you need to keep on top of them, keeping them cleaned/polished once everyone-2 weeks (maybe even more often) on a daily driver.
IMO it depends. Yes it will eventually flake off/lift and corrode (sooner than a painted and laquered alloy) but in order to keep a good finish on a polished wheel you will need to keep on top of them, especially if the car is your only car and used near enough daily.
On my Stag (with some higher offset wheels than yours) part of the brake dust corroded into the wheel (polishing through the stages (wet and dry etc.) would have got rid of it, but it is time...) after I left the wheels for 3 weeks before cleaning them (that was my fault I admit). They were never the tidiest wheels I admit.
A friend of mine with polished Porsche rims has managed to keep corrosion/brake dust marking at bay by cleaning his every week. He did warn me about this mind you.
If you do fit the GKN alloys I would hang onto your Minilites just in case. A number of Stag owners have ditched (or kept the GKN wheels for shows) due to the poor location of the wheels causing vibrations etc. .
Thanks for the advice on the wheels, the minilites are staying on for the moment as i don't have the right wheel nuts for the other alloys and they seem to be extortionately priced
In other news, i was given this by a mate who had in turn been given it but had no use for it
according to the copyright on the instructions it appears to date from around the mid 80s, i think its brilliant should look right at place in the car
it works by either disabling the ignition coil or the fuel pump until a 4 digit code is put in, i connected it to the igniton coil and indeed it does work! the starter motor churned over but couldnt do anything meaningful
but when i went to put the code in, it didnt unlock... curse word.
taking it apart shows this tape with copper tracks on it which connects the keypad to the rest of the circuit board
so I'm thinking the failure could be down to the connection being poor between the tape and the board, cue some ongoing experiments with sellotape
The high price will most likely be down to the fact that the wheel nuts were only made for the LE wheels. Stag (and 2500S (same alloy wheelnuts) wheelnuts are 7/16" UNF (with the sleeve fitting for the GKN wheels) with the LE nuts being 1/2" and only used on the 'B IIRC for around a year.
Sometimes you can strike it lucky on eBay mind you (or at least I did for a few nuts)
Time for more updates, nothing particularly exciting but I had lots of small jobs on the go with the car so I thought it about time that I actually finished a couple of them ;D
First job that I didn''t anticipate was one of the throttle return springs snapping while I was driving 130 odd miles to uni, this made for some 'interesting' driving, which I don't think me or the car appreciated very much
once I knew the throttle cable was actually to blame (thanks to some helpful guys on here ) it was a fairly easy fix to just swap the choke return spring to the front carb return spring position. The choke still works without the spring so thats all good.
Another irritating issue I still havent sorted is the throttle cable adjustment. Full throttle at the pedal results in about half throttle at the carbs
which is a pain. Tried to loosen off the nut at the carb end of the cable and pull it through, but no real success there.
My other bright idea was to put the pedal flat to the floor, hold the throttle cam on full throttle at the carb and adjust the cable thus.
This was brill.. until I started the car then quickly shut it off before it blew bits of engine all over my street. I neglected to notice that with the cable adjusted like that, the throttle return springs only returned the throttle to about 1/2- 3/4 throttle needless to say, a 5000 rpm idle isnt ideal.. so thats back to how it was for the time being. Might need a new throttle cable, who knows?..
Another job thats been on the list for a while is headlights. These ones as fitted to the car are a bit grubby and rusty from the hole for the pilot light
got some nice clear glass ones off the bay for not too much, real improvement in my eyes
they came with pilot lights as well.. but I'm hoping to rig them up so I can have sick 4 front sidelights yo!... is this a popular connector for sidelights? maybe off a mini?
now seeing as I was getting new light units, and the fact that I'm working part time at halfords, it only made sense to upgrade the bulbs too though I didnt pay halfords for these, got them off ebay for a pound each haha!
I don't know why, but i've got a thing for the colour shift light effect they give
While I was at halfords, my mate ran a battery/alternator test on my car. One of the 6v batteries came up as being rather low on charge.. which would explain the dodgy starting of late and the bump start I had to do in sheffield when it was really cold ;D
decided to stick with the 6 volters as the battery space is pretty minimal so finding a 12v to fit might have been a bit of a challenge.
It was also around this time that the brakes all but dissapeared not handy as I needed to drive to scunthorpe, thankfully a quick trip to a garage saw them change the brake fluid and bleed the system which gave me some brakes back ;D possibly better than they were in the first place
and finally, as it was my birthday last month, I treated myself to a couple of extra gauges to go with my clock that id bought ages ago
the current plan is to mount them in a DIN sized hole to be cut out below where the radio currently is, this will mean moving the heated rear screen switch to the upper metal part of the dashboard where there is already a suitable hole