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Thanks Mark ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) You say that but I have kind of given up on the exhausts for the time being. I guess if my hearing gets gradually eroded it will begin to hurt less ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I've experimented with side exit exhausts. I'm not mad keen on the look, but I think it looks alright if its done well. My thinking here was that it would alter the length of the pipes and therefore raise the natural frequency right up the rev range where it wouldn't be annoying in traffic. But there was no room for the second silencer, it was far to exposed and will hit speed bumps. I tried without it, but its ridiculously loud at all RPMs then. So I binned the idea and shall simply be living it for a while. After driving it round a little more with balance pipe on, I think it has made a difference, it wasn't just me hearing things, the resonance is a little less. I wonder now whether its to do with the natural frequency of the cab!!?!? I got the Intercom into the dash yesterday, by recycling a Peugeot Stereo. I reduced the depth of the box, and put a new fascia on it as you can see in the pictures. ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture005-2.jpg) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture006-1.jpg) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture007.jpg) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture008.jpg) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture009.jpg) Its not perfect (but that's in keeping with the rest of the car ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) ) I'm off down the garage to continue the road trip preparations. More to come
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Jul 30, 2013 11:38:35 GMT
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I've just had it weighed! I'm a little disappointed with the total but very pleased with the balance. With me on board the front end is supporting 660kg and rear 620kg. GIVING A TOTAL OF 1200kg (without the 80kg driver). I think I was expecting it to be a little less having lost the Essex engine, but I have put a load of LPG gear in it. These number were with the gas tank empty and the petrol tank at about 1/4. THIS MAKES THE BALANCE 51.6% front, not bad at all ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Next thing is to use the bathroom scales and try to weigh the unsprung weight, then do some calculations and get the right springs ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) More to come
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tbh, thats a pretty nice balance ! you have deleted the pig iron over the nose, and gained alloy heads, but youve doubled the amount of valve train and means to drive it, bigger cylinder head castings, belts, all the ancillary stuff. probably does still weight a bit less, more importantly nearly doubled the power ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png)
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Jul 31, 2013 10:10:58 GMT
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Yeah I'm pretty happy with that. You're right there must be a lot of extra engine mass in all the cam and valve hardware, and the heads are big. But I imagine the cast iron block would have much thinner walls and clever webbing compared to the essex so would still a little lighter though overall.
The LPG conversion is a mixed blessing really, its heavy and slows the car down, but its putting extra mass over a heavy unsprung axle and gives rise to the good weight distribution.
Its strange that I felt sort of disappointed with the heavy 1200kg, I had hoped it might be closer to 1100kg, but this is just silly, I know how fast it is the mass is sort of unimportant now.
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Jul 31, 2013 10:27:16 GMT
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couple of things chear me up, like the "super mini" vauxhall adam 1.4 weighs 1134kg, and alleged "city car" meriva weighs 1350 ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png)
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Jul 31, 2013 10:28:43 GMT
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That brings a smile to my face too, thanks for that ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) (those fat bastards)
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Aug 30, 2013 21:02:49 GMT
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Its been a while and I hope you're concentrating ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Tonight I've removed the balance pipe I put in and I've welded up one of the holes. I'm pretty sure I'll be making up some silencers of my own now, I'll be looking at copying something like the design of the Flowmaster exhausts I think. ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture005-3.jpg) I've finally done the weighing of the un-sprung weight of the car. This was a little tricky even with the simple method of removing the springs and lowering the wheel onto the bathroom scales. The trouble was the friction in the bushes. So I weighed it on the way down then continued to lower the car, then raised it and took another reading on the way back up (the average of the values is the true unsprung weight plus a little extra for the spring). I did this a load of times and got a very interesting result..... The front unsprung weight was (a massive) 87kg per side, and the rear was less!!!! at 73kg per side. I didn't see that coming (with a heavy beam axle on the rear). Now there are people who can build cars, and people who can drive them, then there are the rare skilled folk who can drive a car and can feel what alterations need making. I'm not one of them, so I was genuinely relieved to find there are some calculations you can do to get the spring rates in the ball part. Hence the all the weighing. The end goal is to find the natural frequency of the car front and back and bring these frequency figures close together. Here is the page I used from "The Race and Rally Source Book" Alan Staniforth: (If you're interested read between the red bits) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture006-2.jpg) Now to cut a very long story reasonably short, you need to know Axle wieghts Unsprungs weights to find the sprung weights of each corner of the car. Then the coil spring rates leverage ratios leverage ratio ^2 Effective coil rates due to their angle on inclination (a little trigonometry) to get the wheel ratio then using the sprung weight and the wheel ratio, calculate the natural frequency. Which is exactly what I did here: ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Calcs.png) The book is a little old but basic physics doesn't change, it suggests that for a road car the natural frequency (in cycles per minute) should be between 60 and 80, then 80 - 100 for a sports car, 100 - 125 for race cars. With the front being between 10 and 20 less than the rear. You can see mine in the sheet above. I was expecting to have to get stronger springs for the rear, but it seems the opposite is true I need to strengthen up the front end to get the balance right (show's I'm not much good at "feeling" what a car needs ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) ) The reason the front needs to be so much stronger on Scimitars is the fact that the wishbones weaken the effect of the springs by giving the wheels more leverage of the spring. I've yet to decide which to buy but I'm thinking 450lb/in front and 225 rear to get the balance spot on. Hope you took all that in ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) More to come.
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Last Edit: Aug 30, 2013 21:09:40 GMT by lozzzzzz
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Sept 8, 2013 15:52:38 GMT
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I faffed on this morning and this afternoon doing electric jobs, a diode here and a new bulb there and I put a new hose between the clutch reservoir and the master cylinder. This job has been dragging a little. I got the reservoir and a short length of hose from a civic 'great' I thought, 'OEM quality', 'this must be up to the handling DOT4' but after 6 months use its soaked through and turning the fluid black. Brake fluid is nasty! it eats all sorts. My buddy is a materials engineer and had a theory that acetylene corrodes hoses in a similar way to brake fluid, so got some welding hose for his car...... it ate through it! Its lunches paintwork hoses even the OEM flexi hoses eventually. I was nearly at the point of spending £18 on a new Honda part (£18 for 20cm of hose!!!!!). Then tried a hydraulics place. The chap behind the desk reckons the hose he gave me is good for petrol diesel, all kinds of oils and selection of other chemicals, so should be alright. He also gave me a section of nylon line with SS over braid, and they were both Gratis!. I've got with the fuel hose first as its the only one I had clips to fit. If that fails I've give the nylon one a go. ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130908_155726.jpg) Boring story over ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I've got lots of big jobs to do but I'm just scratching the surface at the moment for fear of the car not being road worthy for the photo shoot at the end of the month. When photos are taken and the car SORN for a while, then I can get stuck into the earth loops, and finishing preparations for the roll hoop to be made, then get some bucket seats and the last harness and it'll be ready for some track action ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I'm thinking about dropping a cheeky little supercharger in there too ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I might change the spring rates before the shoot, and I'm itching to get the exhausts changed as soon as they arrive.... Can't wait.
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actionslaxx
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
a message to you rudy
Posts: 74
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Sept 8, 2013 16:02:11 GMT
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I say,you said bastards, my hamster might read this.
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slot
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Posts: 363
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Sept 8, 2013 16:32:26 GMT
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It's still making for a cracking read matey ! I'm at a similar stage with my Gaz's, and was thinking around 400/450lbs on the front with a V6 BOA fitted ! It defonately softens the blow, knowing the springs are only £15 if I hash it up ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) Keep it up bud ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) Dave
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2013 16:33:05 GMT by slot
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Now you've said B*****ds!!! my dog is reading this! ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Thanks Slot ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) it comes to nearly £50 a pair with delivery and VAT, which is why I'm waiting for a fellow Scimitar owner to clear his garage and send some over cheap ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
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Sept 14, 2013 11:14:29 GMT
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I tried these: ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130912_172012.jpg) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130912_172004.jpg) No difference, literally no difference. Its my fault I'm faffing and trying to get something not too restrictive. New idea to follow.....
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Did some work on the car, its been a while since I really got stuck in with some cutting welding and painting. I decided to do a little more work on the roll hoop mounts. So I removed the large box section bits you can see in this old photo. ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR038.jpg) And I've added tops with captive nuts, and a base for the roll cage man to weld straight to reducing the work he has to do and hopefully the cost a little too. I'll do something similar for the base of the diagonal down bars too and the door bars. ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture010-1.jpg) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture012.jpg) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture011-2.jpg) Now drying ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture013-1.jpg) More to come
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All done and back in the car now. ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture014-1.jpg) ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture015.jpg) I'm thinking of doing something similar with the diagonal down bars next and even some mounts for the door bars, maybe. But now the fun is over, I've got to do some work ![:(](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/sad.png) More to come
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Oct 18, 2013 13:17:18 GMT
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Oct 18, 2013 20:36:57 GMT
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,917
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Oct 19, 2013 17:27:39 GMT
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Can I just say that ain't gonna work for long and is going to be incredibly restrictive - What you want to make is a db killer
Let me find a picture of the one I had made
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v8ian
Posted a lot
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Posts: 3,782
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Oct 19, 2013 17:57:29 GMT
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If you want a small low restriction tuneable exhaust, Supertrap would do the job. not cheap, but work. not hard to copy either.
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style. Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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Oct 22, 2013 19:57:08 GMT
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I'm aware they will be really restrictive. but the beauty of it is, when not driving the car to and from work in boring taffic, I'll just whip them out and have all 262 horses at my disposal again ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
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Oct 27, 2013 20:37:12 GMT
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I've really started ripping into the electrics now, I've made all the changes to the central dash, and all of the bits that needed changing on the drivers side, and I'm in the midst of opening up the bulk of the loom on the passenger side now. I'm basically giving everything that has anything to do with the ECU an earth on the "busbar". And hopefully that'll cure the earth loop problems. I've got a fairly good idea of the problem now, after much reading and sifting through various webpages. This is the busbar: ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131025_161043.jpg) This is where its going: ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131025_164104.jpg) And this is the mess as it stands at the moment: ![](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture.jpg) Apart from the busbar, the other changes are to get rid of the Map switch and have it auto switch to Map2 when the LPG solenoids open, bin the fuel pump switches as they have to be on all the time anyway (even when on gas), and add an LPG momentary kill switch. This will serve two purposes, firstly ont he very rare occasion the LPG plays up it'll mean I don't have to switch the engine off to reset the LPG ecu, and secondly (and more cool), it'll give a 20s go on petrol then switch back to gas, good for overtaking when lots of power is needed. More to come
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