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For a daily i drive a astra mk1 with a tc4ee1 (1.7td) fitted. We did al the basic stuff, made a de-cat exhaust, (with side pipe  ) removed the plastic restrictor ring from the fuel pump, fitted a "open air filter"and added a bleedvalve to the turbo to get it boosting to about 1.1/1.2 bar. driving around with this for something like 20.000 km, and haven't had any real trouble yet.. but there must be more? i still have to switch out the front, to get a little more air on the radiator and inter cooler.. but i don't think that will give me the extra horses to satisfy me... are there any more modifications worth doing? just to see what we are talking about, and to add some pics... my daily:     |
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jasonj
Part of things
Posts: 220
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Increase the fueling on the pump if you havn't done it already. Thats the easiest mod to get better power. Next step will be to put a bigger intercooler on.
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Last Edit: May 22, 2012 7:49:29 GMT by jasonj
Team Supercharged Opel Ascona 400.
294bhp - 235 lb/ft
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forgot to say that, we also adjusted the "smoke stop"... so I guess it is getting more fuel also.
will the increase on intercooler make "a lot" of difference? (i understand that I wont get +50hp)
I have the stock IC at the moment, mainly due to not having enough room the get a bigger one, that will sit horizontal, in front of the radiator...
could see if I could make more room by replacing to big bulky fan with a span-fan model. and then relocating the radiator a bit more back..
does fitting a NA intake manifold make any difference ?
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Last Edit: May 22, 2012 8:48:36 GMT by tijs
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,961
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Unless you've changed the rocker cover/inlet manifold That's not an Isuzu engine its the curse word Vauxhall version.
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your wrong there mate, vauxhall/isuzu covers are not swappable, so that is not an option. it is the isuzu lump, with turbo, (even though it says only diesel and not turbo) also the gm lump has the turbo on the firewall side, this one has the turbo in the front, and the fuel pump under the inlet manifold. i ripped it out of a astra mk3 tds myself, so i'm 100% sure. the gm lump bolts straight to normal gm engine mounts, i had to weld in a mount in the chassis leg for this isuzu lump  it did have a gm NA diesel in it when i bought it, before the isuzu TD lump I had upgraded to a gm TD, but that one died on me really quick (because the oilpan got ripped) |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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that is the isuzu lump, looks to be badged slightly differently to uk versions though.
take a look at what Si (B8D) did to the one he converted to rwd for his viva. he fitted a slightly larger turbo, lightened the flywheel and a few other mods, which it seems to respond well to.
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May 22, 2012 14:05:25 GMT
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Going for a bigger intercooler doesn't actually give MORE power, it just keeps the air charge cooler for LONGER.
If you're just pootling around, and occasionally want to be able to plant your foot and shift, most standard intercoolers are pretty good!
The smoke screw only lets you have more of the standard level of fuelling sooner - it doesn't increase the total amount of fuel available. What you've done will make it pick up from idle/traffic lights amazingly better though! Above the fuel cutoff solenoid is the max fuel screw - this does exactly what you'd expect it to do, and it controls the maximum amount of fuel available.
Turn it in, at most 1/2 a turn at a time (dropping the idle speed whenever needed, again by winding out another screw) until you get a light/medium haze of smoke at full power.
Don't be tempted to just screw it in 3-odd turns then start it up... there's every chance it'll "run-away", refuse to stop, possibly knacker the engine, and generally ruin your day....
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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May 22, 2012 14:29:47 GMT
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but the cooler air from a bigger intercooler does have a positive effect though?
hmm, why would it run away, of the fuel is cut of, it is cut off... I never noticed the car using any oil, I understood that oil consumption would be a reason for getting a run away diesel.
but a warning is noted, but how will I know when enough is enough?
I now have a meduim/dark haze of smoke when pulling away, when going 120km/u and then pulling away it is not to bad, I would say light haze...
would it be smart to first set the smoke screw back a bit to its original state? ik believe it is now 3/4 of a turn in.
for what it's worth, i believe the engine is now somewhere around 310.000km, bought it 280.000, turbo felt like new, it was a ex lease/company car(not mine)
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Last Edit: May 22, 2012 14:32:27 GMT by tijs
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May 22, 2012 17:57:11 GMT
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I have exactly the same engine, same inlet manifold and same cam cover, with Diesel written on the top even though it definatly is a TD, it came from a P reg Astra,
maybe they were slightly differences depending on age or what model they were installed in, or as it went into a Corsa before I got it, maybe the cam cover and inlet are of the corsa 1.7D !
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Last Edit: May 22, 2012 19:04:51 GMT by ianboyd
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May 22, 2012 19:25:50 GMT
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as far as i know, this cover is the original, engine came from a 03 '98 astra mk3 estate, one of the latest.
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benjy_b
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 409
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May 22, 2012 22:57:48 GMT
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I have exactly the same engine, same inlet manifold and same cam cover, with Diesel written on the top even though it definatly is a TD, it came from a P reg Astra, maybe they were slightly differences depending on age or what model they were installed in, or as it went into a Corsa before I got it, maybe the cam cover and inlet are of the corsa 1.7D ! Cam cover and top half of the inlet are off a 1.5D (n/a) Corsa |
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2005 Subaru Forester 2.5XT
1999 BMW E36 318i Touring with OM605 Mercedes Engine
1996 Lada Riva with Honda S2000 Engine
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May 23, 2012 11:42:02 GMT
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I have exactly the same engine, same inlet manifold and same cam cover, with Diesel written on the top even though it definatly is a TD, it came from a P reg Astra, maybe they were slightly differences depending on age or what model they were installed in, or as it went into a Corsa before I got it, maybe the cam cover and inlet are of the corsa 1.7D ! that figures Cam cover and top half of the inlet are off a 1.5D (n/a) Corsa |
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May 23, 2012 23:00:45 GMT
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but the cooler air from a bigger intercooler does have a positive effect though? It does - but not to a noticeable level when actually driving in most cases (there will always be the exception to this mind you, when a pitiful intercooler was fitted as standard) hmm, why would it run away, of the fuel is cut of, it is cut off... I never noticed the car using any oil, I understood that oil consumption would be a reason for getting a run away diesel. It's a weird thing - sometimes the stop valve doesn't actually cut the engine out  Happens most on pumps where the fuelling's been turned up - it's rare, but do you want to risk it happening? how will I know when enough is enough? I now have a meduim/dark haze of smoke when pulling away, when going 120km/u and then pulling away it is not to bad, I would say light haze... would it be smart to first set the smoke screw back a bit to its original state? ik believe it is now 3/4 of a turn in. The max fuel screw will raise fuelling across the whole range, so you may need to adjust the smoke screw inwards if you're getting loads of smoke before you're on-boost. But tbh, just take your foot off the throttle a bit... it does EXACTLY the same to the level of fuelling being added And smoke off-boost is just irritating (to other drivers.. and the police) but smoke on-boost, under load, can be quite dangerous, as this is when exhaust temps will rise MASSIVELY, and can literally melt pistons. So, when you've got smoke, at full boost, under max load (usually 3rd/4th gear, at about 50mph), is when it's TOO much for your turbo |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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the off boost smoke is currently pretty "noticeable", to say the least, I guess the best way to go is to set the smoke screw to it's default value, and go from there with the max fuel adjuster, it should give more power on boost, and less smoke when not yet boosting. just to be on the save side, the smoke screw is the one that was (from factory) sealed with a metal jacked so it could not be tampered with? and does reside near the fuel cut off solenoid? adjustable with a flat-head screwdriver, and has a locknut? i'm going to be in the workshop on sunday, so I will the playing with all the things then never noticed another screw near the solenoid, so I need to search again for the max fuel, unless the screw I always asumed to be the smoke screw, is the max fuel screw.... -edit-- whoops, just reading through the how to on migweb again, we made a little mistake.. www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines-transmission/251241-isuzu-engine-astra-mk3.htmlwe asumed the max fuel screw for being to smoke screw... haha but then, where is the smoke screw? they don't really talk about that.. hmm... it's going to be a interesting sunday.. i'm guessing it could get a little to much fuel... i think the what seems to be the max fuel screw, is turned in for about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn... that could also be a reason for temps to be racing up when flooring it on the highway (150km/h+) |
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Last Edit: May 24, 2012 6:41:10 GMT by tijs
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Yups, that was indeed the max fuel screw! Lol I did wonder how you got so much smoke from such a small adjustment on the smoke screw  I was also suprised when you said you even HAD a smoke screw, as I've never seen one before on those pumps! It's just a different top cap on the aneroid section, but the intake manifold gets in the way of swapping one over AFAIK The torx screw in the top of the aneroid on this pump, is the smoke screw  You can see here, how the screw pokes into the pump, and will push the LDA pin down a set amount  |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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May 24, 2012 11:26:29 GMT
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ok, this explains a lot!! the isuzu lump has a dimple in that "top lid" that pushes down on the pin, so you should increase the dimple? to push it more down? I read in the how to, that the dimple should be hammered down, (so it pushes less) to effect smoking when idle, didn't say if it would effect it in either more or less smoke... so I hammered it down, without thinking about it.. perhaps i'll get another lid from a spare (and broken) engine, drill the dimple out, weld a nut on the top, en make it adjustable with a torx screw and locking nut to be able to adjust it in a normal way.. need to get the inlet manifold off anyway, as I understood it is better to use a inlet from a NA model, we have one of those in a corner with a blown head gasket, it is on the list for scrap anyway. |
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Last Edit: May 24, 2012 11:28:23 GMT by tijs
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May 24, 2012 20:19:30 GMT
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If you can make enough space to fit some form of adjustment to the lid, do it! Pushing the pin down, gives more smoke/power off-boost. Having the pin higher up, gives less power/smoke off-boost. Turning the starwheel inwards a turn or two help chuck in more fuel once you're on boost too |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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Colonelk
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,742
Club RR Member Number: 83
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May 24, 2012 23:47:08 GMT
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cool car, I like it a lot  Apparently the main problem with the Isuzu engine is the turbo..... above the boost pressure you have now it just makes the air hotter rather than pumping any more air (to go with your extra fuel). The guys who use these to drag race in Malta apparently run T3s.... but I don't think there are any "bolt in" upgrades. The Isuzu Trooper 3.1 turbo doesnt fit Ive been told. Beyond that you want to research more about Bosch pump Tuning as Chairchild has been discussing with you. I still havent gotten around to playing with the governor on mine, or the advance mechanism! Also, be wary about the 1.7 headgaskets..... theres not a lot of meat between the cylinders! |
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If you can make enough space to fit some form of adjustment to the lid, do it! Pushing the pin down, gives more smoke/power off-boost. Having the pin higher up, gives less power/smoke off-boost. Turning the starwheel inwards a turn or two help chuck in more fuel once you're on boost too i'll see if the NA has a lid, (although i believe that piece of the pump is only there on the turbo pump, because a NA wont have any air pressure to push down on the membrane) if not, i can always source one at a local scrappy got a blown headgasket or something.) turning the starwheel in? you are reffering to the smoke screw again (with a star/torx)?? cool car, I like it a lot Apparently the main problem with the Isuzu engine is the turbo..... above the boost pressure you have now it just makes the air hotter rather than pumping any more air (to go with your extra fuel). The guys who use these to drag race in Malta apparently run T3s.... but I don't think there are any "bolt in" upgrades. The Isuzu Trooper 3.1 turbo doesnt fit Ive been told. Beyond that you want to research more about Bosch pump Tuning as Chairchild has been discussing with you. I still havent gotten around to playing with the governor on mine, or the advance mechanism! Also, be wary about the 1.7 headgaskets..... theres not a lot of meat between the cylinders! thanks! not many people (especially bosses) would agree with you, non the less, i still have fun with it, and like the looks on peoples faces when the traffic light turns green i have this car for over a year now, it's longest i drove a daily before selling it, perhaps it also has something to do with it not being very sell-able.. even though i thought that of more cars, that sold within a week... somehow there is always a market for that one just a little bit to odd car luckily there is still a very active rat-look scene here, and anything with ratlook (even if it is just a synonym for bucket 'o rust) in the advert will sell.. i've been sourcing a cheap backup engine for some time now, but with everything diesel going to export, i'm not having very much luck... so when (haha not if) the headgasket goes, i guess i will just have to fit a new one, and see... or search for a upgraded version? been thinking about a bigger turbo... but i'm not sure how big i can go... the fact is, it is only a 1.7.... i can buy a referb turbo from a frontera 2.8 diesel for fairly cheap.. the saab 2.2 diesel turbo's are pretty reasonable priced too.. not really looking forward to making a new exhaust manifold for a turbo that my engine cant handle.... (plus my fabbing skills are not so expert-like as some of you here) i think i'm just going to go search for a new lid to modify, see if i can fit the NA manifold, (to also make the air inlet route a lot shorter) and search a spal-like fan to be abe to give a IC more cooling surface by placing it in front of the radiator. maybe then this just has to go to a "professional" tuner to get a decent basic setup? someone with a "rolling road"... i bought a house last juli, i have to move in there this september, and still have a sh*t load of work to do it, before i can even think of living there... (i heard people say that a bedroom, bathroom and kitchen are pretty handy things to have in a house....) a project to fit a new turbo would have to wait at least till i live there, and perhaps find a temporary other silly car to bring me to work and back.. thanks for the great help so far, atleast i have a little bit of moyo back to go and upgrade the things that are fairly small jobs! ;D |
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I think B-8-D fitted a Garret GT15 from a vectra 2 litre, it was in a Viva, so you might have space issues |
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) removed the plastic restrictor ring from the fuel pump, fitted a "open air filter"and added a bleedvalve to the turbo to get it boosting to about 1.1/1.2 bar.
Happens most on pumps where the fuelling's been turned up - it's rare, but do you want to risk it happening?
