dp
Posted a lot
DP Race Tech
Posts: 1,044
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Nov 14, 2006 10:17:16 GMT
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bodieanddoyle in da house:
a single piece prop for my capri!
Impressive what can be done with a Black & Decker workbench, angle finder, welder, knowledge and a good size of "god d*mn it", looks like it's not the first time you'r doing this!!!!!
One question though, I might be way out here but should not one side of it be turned one 1/4 turn so that the u-joints aren't lined up paralell (if you get my drift) like on the stock shaft??? Don't know but somewhere in the back of my Hot Rod builder filing cabinet (also called brain) something tells me this but I could be wrong.......
DP says: A true RR Renaissance Man doing his stuff, more power to him.....
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2006 10:17:41 GMT by dp
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Nov 14, 2006 10:52:49 GMT
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Good skills fella  But I have to add that the yokes should not be in line they should be 90° out to stop the prop plunging in and out purely through rotation The length changes with any angle of the 2 UJ`s if they are in line, if you oppose them the apparent length and joint position stays constant As for 2 peice props, they are better in many ways, especially on a live axled car. Less unsprung weight Half the Prop is counted as unsprung weight With a split prop, the front half,bearing and half the rear section is sprung mass with only half the rear section being unsprung a lot less than a single peice and quite significant with a live axled car as its difficult to lower the unsprung mass with an Atlas or similar hung out there Prop is also "Unsprung rotating" so has a similar effect to fitting lighter wheels, it still needs accellerating but less of the mass of it will be off axis HTH Dom |
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Nov 14, 2006 18:41:41 GMT
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hhmmmmm. I might have to make another one up at some point then. I think my welds are superior to the steel the prop is made from, wall thickness is tiny and its seamed tube. I could have sleeved it with a decent bit of exhaust tubing TBH, it'd be nearly as strong! I've seen others done before that have the yokes in line, works for jaguar driveshafts!?!? what dom suggest makes a fair bit of sense, I was taught this at colledge, seems a long time ago now  think I'll trust you lot and turn one uj out 90 degrees, its not like its a long job or owt. I'm considering a prop loop now too, you lot make me paranoid! ;D |
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Nov 14, 2006 18:49:39 GMT
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just hung my head under the minor and that has the yokes in line. I'm get really confused now  now googling "single piece props"..... |
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Nov 14, 2006 19:37:06 GMT
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how does the universal balanceing weight work then? have you got any links? whats whip? id guess its to do with the slack in the rubber doughnut. ive shortened my capri prop by sawing twice, lining it up then welding it at the gearbox end. ta.  |
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Nov 14, 2006 19:42:09 GMT
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dave- the "balancing weight" is a jubilee clip on the prop I made, just trial and error until its right. placed it in the middle of the prop tho. whip is when the prop turns into a skipping rope  |
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Nov 14, 2006 20:23:49 GMT
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so its a bodge then. i can do bodges....... |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,962
Club RR Member Number: 71
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today I made...bstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Nov 14, 2006 20:27:31 GMT
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so its a bodge then. I can do bodges....... pmsl - I've said that myself many times |
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Nov 14, 2006 20:28:53 GMT
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lmao! but in the trade we say "temporary repair"  |
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Nov 14, 2006 23:14:38 GMT
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i find it depends on the customer! |
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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Nov 14, 2006 23:36:54 GMT
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i must admit that ive never seen a prop with the yokes anything other than in line!!!! ive always made them in line the same as anyone ive seen perhaps there are some props with the yokes 90 deg's out but i just aint seen um?  the hardy spicer joints do make the prop move at verying speeds throughout the revolution but that is why the cv or "constant velocity" joint was developed.. and used on the sd1 as a prop maybe others? but hardy spicers are generaly concidered stronger i thought?! i usually weld the prop at the end on the base of the yoke even if it requires replacing the whole tube. and for straitnes well as long as its ballenced it don't matter too much ive seen props from very well known reputable retailers with a runout of up to 6mm!!!! they just balence then accordingly. i normally run them up on a home made jig or "on the car" with a few tacks and a hammer til they are within 1mm although i aim for within o.25mm and usually requires little to no balencing!! as for tube there is a ratio to the overall length to diameter tubing used but as long as there is a big diameter then wall thickness can be kept low to keep down on weight I'm no expert really ive made maybe 50 or so i suppose but never (touch wood!) had one fail as yet... but if one is in any doubt whatsoever then don't atempt it without a good prop loop!! si |
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today I made...rustingdeathtrap
@GUEST
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Just thought i'd share this little story about a propshaft related incident we had at work last year. We converted an iveco ambulance from auto to manual and needed a new prop making for it. We went to the apropriate specialist and paid a good few quid for a custom made prop. Fitted it to the motor, road test, fine, no vibrations good as gold. Customer comes and picks it up and is on his way home on the A13 when it shears  Went right through his fuel tank which he'd just filled up and dump diesel all over the road. The plod turned up and they shut the road while the mess was cleared up then the ministry turned up and took the van away. Needless to say certain people at our place were getting a bit worried about what would happen but it turned out the people who made the prop had used too thin a wall tube and it just wasnt up to the torque. Really the guy had a lucky escape and it could have beena lot worse than a massive traffic jam and a tank full of diesel. |
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