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Jun 25, 2014 18:28:45 GMT
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Glad you've got your mojo back, this is a cool little car and bike engine power suits it perfectly. As you said something standard which you can fit, forget and punish is much better than running something tuned can potentially detract from it's reliability and ultimately the fun of using it. Best non-photo update ever! Thanks, does feel good to be back on it... Could prob get away with a bigger oil cooler on a gixxer lump? I know watercooleds always seem a lot more likely to overheat than a oil cooled gixxer. Trouble is the barrels are still air-cooled, and there's just not enough air flow. Will certainly be exploring my options, but after reading about it seems that the later Daytona lumps are fine unless the oil supply gets interrupted (low oil or dropping the bike seem favourite). Maybe a dry-sump is the answer?
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Last Edit: Jun 25, 2014 18:30:07 GMT by jrevillug
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Jun 25, 2014 19:25:39 GMT
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Or a larger, baffled sump. They seem to be very fussy about oil. I don't think they had enough compacity.
Do the later ones do have problems with the sprag clutches too? Thats an engine strip.
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Jun 25, 2014 20:36:53 GMT
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Hi,
Usually I'm just lurking around on this great forum, now surfacing... Just went through the whole thread and as we are talking bike engine:
Have you considered using a Flying Brick engine (BMW K Series)? Looks almost made to fit your needs: - water cooled - some 80-85kg (without the box) - tilted 90°, -> low center of gravity - EFI on ITB's - good torque, low rpms (for a bike engine, peak at 8-9k) - uses car(ish) bellhousing with single disc dry clutch - comes from 1000cc 8v 90hp (K100, plenty and cheap, at least here in germany) up to 1200cc 16v 130hp (K1200RS/GT/LT, not really cheap), turbo/supercharging possible. - 40A alternator - really tough motor, does at least 100.000km. Some guys did 300k without trouble. Who on earth does 300.000km on a bike??
Just my 0.02€,
Norbert
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´70 Zündapp R50 ´71 VW 181RS ´76 VW Passat Variant i ´91 VW Golf Cabriolet ClassicLine ´99 Mercedes SLK 200 ´15 VW Golf 2.0TDI Highline ´15 Mercedes E300T BlueTec
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Jun 25, 2014 23:21:20 GMT
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Hi, Usually I'm just lurking around on this great forum, now surfacing... Just went through the whole thread and as we are talking bike engine: Have you considered using a Flying Brick engine (BMW K Series)? Looks almost made to fit your needs: - water cooled - some 80-85kg (without the box) - tilted 90°, -> low center of gravity - EFI on ITB's - good torque, low rpms (for a bike engine, peak at 8-9k) - uses car(ish) bellhousing with single disc dry clutch - comes from 1000cc 8v 90hp (K100, plenty and cheap, at least here in germany) up to 1200cc 16v 130hp (K1200RS/GT/LT, not really cheap), turbo/supercharging possible. - 40A alternator - really tough motor, does at least 100.000km. Some guys did 300k without trouble. Who on earth does 300.000km on a bike?? Just my 0.02€, Norbert Best place for a BMW k series lump....
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Koos
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Looks a little too for my taste...
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Jun 26, 2014 20:12:28 GMT
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The BMW has an extra reduction running in its carter, making the bellhousing quite substantial. Would it be possible to put/squeeze the driveline from a Peugeot 106 in? Maybe it is inclined enough to slide under the rear bulkhead? A 1.6 8V TU5 would be very torquey.
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Click picture for more
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Jun 26, 2014 21:25:12 GMT
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Honda Goldwing/Valkyrie?
*n
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Top grammar tips! Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,320
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Jun 26, 2014 21:58:18 GMT
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The BMW has an extra reduction running in its carter, making the bellhousing quite substantial. Would it be possible to put/squeeze the driveline from a Peugeot 106 in? Maybe it is inclined enough to slide under the rear bulkhead? A 1.6 8V TU5 would be very torquey. As far as I recall, James already measured up for the TU an it's a no go in terms of size.
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Jun 26, 2014 22:33:28 GMT
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Probably stating the obvious here, but what about a BMW boxer engine? Lies flat and there are conversion bellhousings already made for it for beetle swaps and such.
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Jun 26, 2014 23:45:40 GMT
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Cheers for the input, guys - appreciated. The BMW K-series engine and Boxer had crossed my mind, but IIRC it'd need to be mated to a car gearbox as the stock gearbox is too long; there's sod-all space for a bigger car gearbox (Skoda, VW and Porsche are the only ones the right shape, and are all too big; the Imp 'box is tiny.One option for a longitudinal engine with it's own gearbox - being quite a compact unit - is the Honda St1100 (Pan European) engine; tough as old boots, and with reasonable amounts of power. Should sound quite nice too. Bit heavy though. The TU5, again, presents the problem of the gearbox. Also, it's an iron-block engine, so is a wee bit on the heavy side, and it's down on power for my goal of 200bhp/tonne. At present my thinking is a recent-ish ~1000cc chain-drive bike engine, turned through 90 degrees clockwise when veiwed from above, driving forward through a short shaft into a small car differential. Really just a case of chosing a suitable engine and diff now.
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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So basically like in a 7, but backwards and with teh worlds smallest prop The only prob with that is getting a tall enough FD With the BWM boxer, they are running them in 2CV's now, would that be a small enough box for you?
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I know I'm biased and you'll probably consider this boring but just get it running with the engine and box it was designed for and drive it. Even an 875 Sport will be fun but a 998 will be better. No need to spend a fortune to get adequate and reliable power. Suspension mods are minimal to get a good handling car and wheels beyond 6 inch are not necessary - I raced on 5 inch for years. Discover the delights of a standard car before chopping it about to fit alternative power units.
Pete Richards
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Jun 27, 2014 17:27:19 GMT
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Isn't the Imp box strong enough to run the bike engine?
Then, you could bolt the engine to the box and only use 4th and the reverse of the Imp box. For the upward shifts you rely on the sequential gears of the bike box.
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Click picture for more
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Jun 27, 2014 23:38:08 GMT
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So basically like in a 7, but backwards and with teh worlds smallest prop The only prob with that is getting a tall enough FD With the BWM boxer, they are running them in 2CV's now, would that be a small enough box for you? Yeah, that pretty much sums it up. A Freelander rear diff seems to match the Triumph triple quite nicely w.r.t. gearing; it's a 3.21:1 ratio, which with the planned tyres gives a redline-limited maximum speed of 118mph, which seems reasonable. 2CV box is an interesting thought, especially as they can have the diff flipped over to run a rear-engine layout (see twin-engine Sahara). I know I'm biased and you'll probably consider this boring but just get it running with the engine and box it was designed for and drive it. Even an 875 Sport will be fun but a 998 will be better. No need to spend a fortune to get adequate and reliable power. Suspension mods are minimal to get a good handling car and wheels beyond 6 inch are not necessary - I raced on 5 inch for years. Discover the delights of a standard car before chopping it about to fit alternative power units. Pete Richards Hi Pete, Hadn't realised that was you lurking under that username - I bought a fibreglass engine cover from you a while back. I have to say I envy you your pair of Clans. I appreciate where you're coming from, I really do - I love driving my sport-spec 875 Imp, and I can only imagine that the same engine in a lighter, more aerodynamic Clan would be brilliant, and a 998 better yet. However, I'm feeling greedy, and want more than just adequate power: I've just done 1800 miles driving around some of the country's best roads in the Imp and my most frequent frustration was lack of power for uphill sections and overtaking. Granted, that's ~55bhp in 750kg of car, not ~55 (or even 80)bhp in ~600kg of car, but as a result of my new job I've recently been driving a bigger variety of cars, and even 130bhp/tonne doesn't give much margin against modern traffic, especially uphill. That said, the Imp is still one of the nicest handling cars I've encountered - direct, communicative, and predictable. In this Clan, I'd like to retain all of those characteristics (only more so), whist adding a decent amount of 'shove'. I think 200bhp/tonne is a nice number to aim at; usefully fast without being utterly terrifying or overwhelming sensibly-sized tyres (the wheels that I'm fitting are 5.5" wide, and tyres will be either 165 all-round or 175 rear and 165 front), the brake parts I already own, or the planned minimal suspension modifications. I would dearly love to build an Imp engine to make that sort of power, as it's a glorious little thing, but from building up my ~sport 875 I know that will be neither a quick nor a cheap task - especially if it's to withstand the abuse I know I'd mete out to it... To be brutally honest, with the number of projects I have on the go, if there's a unmodified engine that gives me similar performance and weight for less money and effort, I'm probably going to choose that option; once on the road I see this car as a toy for driving rather than a project for tinkering with. Rest assured that I won't be chopping it about to fit a different engine setup - if it doesn't go in the standard hole, it's not going in. The biggest alteration to the shell will be the addition of a front radiator, but I'd do that regardless of choiuce of power plant. Isn't the Imp box strong enough to run the bike engine? Nah, not really.
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Last Edit: Jun 27, 2014 23:39:52 GMT by jrevillug
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Isn't the Imp box strong enough to run the bike engine? Then, you could bolt the engine to the box and only use 4th and the reverse of the Imp box. For the upward shifts you rely on the sequential gears of the bike box.
That engine there is a proper engine for bike engine conversion. Take it as fact from me Engine will deliver proper power even from low revs and screams like a banshee in heat, when you open up the flaps. Even better, do the the 1st and 2nd gear power block mod, and the engine will give all the power that she has from the start.
My bike has that mod, and dare not give W O T from standing start. I am not skilled rider yet with this ZX14 bike. She would buck me off the seat like a bronco.
Cool build. Keep it up and cheers from Finland.
-Hessu-
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Last Edit: Jun 28, 2014 6:41:37 GMT by hessu75
Ford Capri Mk3 -79 2.9EFI turbo, summer ride Ford Sierra 4x4 STW aka "GABy", winter ride Kawasaki ZX14 Project 2.9 EFI engine for the Sierra 4x4.
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Oct 30, 2014 18:11:07 GMT
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Just over 29 months since picking it up, and over 2 years since it went into the workshop, and I've stripped it to a bare shell and started grinding out the 'glass holding the remains of the ply in. That's scarily little progress in that much time and to be honest it's starting to drag. Best I get stuck in and make some progress, or it'll be in danger of just getting pushed to one side for years more... Have this awesome shot by jonovlov of the Clan lurking in it's new GRP dust-retaining-tent. I'm itching just looking at it - fibreglass is nasty stuff to work with.
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Last Edit: Oct 30, 2014 18:11:29 GMT by jrevillug
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Apparently talc/baby powder...
On the latest episode of Fast N Loud, the young panel guy (Keenan) rubs talc on to stop getting FG dust in his pores.
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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So, any movement on this yet? I think the Clan was the first kit car I ever saw and subsequently hankered after. I suddenly want one again ?
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I do like Clans! I read about them in CCC magazine way back when they were new and then found that a local garage (Langrop?) in Ansty Leics were agents so I went to see them and was tempted....but did nothing, then when I got into Alfasuds I saw the Clan Clover version.....but did nothing! So keep up the good work and keep posting.....please.
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