jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Feb 25, 2018 20:37:58 GMT
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Next time I'm on it i'm going to fit it to the aperture then climb through from the other side so i can take a look at the hinges and see how it all sits together.
I may have to do a few weeks of stretches first as its not exactly loaded with space!
I'm still deciding if i'm going to reverse the boot opening direction as well. With the height it sits to the road getting into the boot may be a challenge.
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re: the boot lid not closing, I had this on mine and then I realised I had the hinges the wrong way round, as in I had bolted the bit that attaches to the body to the boot lid or something like that, also one of mine is lots shorter than the other from memory, have mine fitted the right way round now and the boot lid closes properly, but I do remember dicking about with it for hours until we figured out what way round everything went. there were no spacers inside the boot end, just bolts with a single washer that go into the floating threaded panel inside the upper boot return. id take pics but my car isn't with me currently, if you want some ill try get them
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Thanks shinerunner, i take a look at the hinge direction. I took it as being they were on the right way round as they were already fixed to the boot, but will check in case.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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The hinge saga continued. climb inside this is the issue with the hinges P3024463 by jono_misfit, on Flickr P3024464 by jono_misfit, on Flickr about 40mm offset to where it should be after an hour of not getting there, changing the hinges round every which way i could thing of, i figured they cant be the right hinges and so cut them to start modifying to get them to work. P3024469 by jono_misfit, on Flickr P3024470 by jono_misfit, on Flickr ..... and then realised i ballsed up! the brackets can flip so the pivot point goes up inside the panel..... aaaaaaahhhh noooooo balls balls balls balls balls tack hinges back together P3034476 by jono_misfit, on Flickr and.... all issues fixed P3034474 by jono_misfit, on Flickr P3034475 by jono_misfit, on Flickr i'm an idiot stays back on P3034477 by jono_misfit, on Flickr there may be some issues getting into the boot then the cars lowered back down off the dolleys. Oh well. it'll be fine. so then started musing about the fuel filler. SVA manual says no filling the tank inside the car. Fair enough. I don't want an external filler cap though. So was thinking i might mod the boot so a corner is a flip open fuel filler cap. something like this P3034478 by jono_misfit, on Flickr with the boot opened you'd get the corner still remaining however its not really getting in the way, and its not like anything will ever be put in the boot. :-) P3034479 by jono_misfit, on Flickr will muse on it some more the other thing that i need to replace on the boot flange is the stiffener that the factory had fitted. I guess as there's a bit of movement opening it it'll probably crack with time, so stiffener back in it is. The morris one was a straight piece with a couple of beads in it...... this seems like an opportunity for more of my favourite swaged holes to me.... template P3034480 by jono_misfit, on Flickr multiple lines is me trying to work out what holes might work. Cut out in steel P3034481 by jono_misfit, on Flickr fold P3034482 by jono_misfit, on Flickr swage and try in situ P3034483 by jono_misfit, on Flickr and one for the other side P3034484 by jono_misfit, on Flickr i checked and the tank top still lifts out without to much effort. Will see how i feel about it next time i'm on the car.
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Do!!! as Homer would say.
Well at least you found it and sorted it out.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,279
Club RR Member Number: 146
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You know, that flat bit of body between boot lid and rear window looks like a nice spot to put a flush fit flap for a fuel filler, especially if the only thing living in the boot is the fuel tank. Nice and easy to access too and should be easier to fabricated a filler neck than if it's having to line up with the boot lid corner.
Glad you found what the problem was with the hinges, just a shame it was an angle grinder moment too late. What a nuisance!
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Whilst the filler cannot be inside the boot, can it be under the boot lid and be panelled and sealed off so any spillage/fumes are directed outside. The hillman imp uses this.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Appearances can be deceiving. The panel above boot is curved in two directions and the hinge plate reinforcing panel is in there too. Not impossible though.
If I really wanted I could cut a recess in the rear quarter and put a filler inside that with a flip hatch. I'm kind of loathed to cut the body though. The boot can be replaced if I botched it. The body would be a world of pain to sort a mistake on.
More musing required.
Thanks for the info on the imp. I think the sticking point with mine is the equivalent position is inside the car. There's not going to be a bulkhead in the boot so the filler would be in the passenger compartment.
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Do you know if you and Grumpy ever got together on a project what a project it would be. OOH - Now there's a thought - tempting - even more tempting is the fact that I have in storage a probably suitable 1950's ERA (English Racing Automobiles) designed chassis and I have all the body panels to go with it - However reality dictates jonomisfit has his Morris to complete, a 4 x 4 Escort project in the wings and a young family, I have at least 3 full blown projects plus a handful of others that need some TLC and project grumpy towers of residence - top it off with the fact that I don't think that we are anywhere within shouting distance of each other and it's just never going to happen - nice thought though
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Last Edit: Mar 4, 2018 9:43:38 GMT by Deleted
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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If your not going to use the boot then why not use the lid as as a huge filler flap.
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Last Edit: Mar 4, 2018 9:47:32 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Do you know if you and Grumpy ever got together on a project what a project it would be. OOH - Now there's a thought - tempting - even more tempting is the fact that I have in storage a probably suitable 1950's ERA (English Racing Automobiles) designed chassis and I have all the body panels to go with it - However reality dictates jonomisfit has his Morris to complete, a 4 x 4 Escort project in the wings and a young family, I have at least 3 full blown projects plus a handful of others that need some TLC and project grumpy towers of residence - top it off with the fact that I don't think that we are anywhere within shouting distance of each other and it's just never going to happen - nice thought though A grumpymisfit ERA racer..... i so want that to happen.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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I've also got the avenger to finish and also should really do my dad's riley rme 2 1/2 ltr as that's been in the garage since 1969 waiting to get done!
Too many things and never enough time.
The boot as a fuel flap could work if I did a removable panel. I still need in through it as it's the only way to the fuel tank and diff.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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top it off with the fact that I don't think that we are anywhere within shouting distance of each other and it's just never going to happen - nice thought though Going by the link in your profile you're about 4.5hrs drive from me, on a sunday morning. I live in South West Cumbria.
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I've also got the avenger to finish and also should really do my dad's riley rme 2 1/2 ltr as that's been in the garage since 1969 waiting to get done! Too many things and never enough time. The boot as a fuel flap could work if I did a removable panel. I still need in through it as it's the only way to the fuel tank and diff. Wow a Riley RME - that's the larger engined Riley RM - a lovely car when sorted - hope you are has good at woodwork has what you are with the metal forming though
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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It's a stunning car. Luckily the ash frame is in very good condition on it and there isn't that much needs done on it.
The riley owners club also have most of the wood and a load of panels etc remanufacturered and available off the shelf.
My dad keeps saying he's going to do It, then proceeds to do other things in stead. Like 4x4s and a ford consul for his neighbour.
He's also got a morris 12 / 4? Pickup or van sitting in a shed.not sure which but the register think there's only 4 of then left.
That needs an entire new wood frame made. It's a huge job. I suspect that won't get done.
Not enough time for them all.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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So I managed a bit of time on the morris. Tacked in the rear flange supports P3164485 by jono_misfit, on Flickr P3164486 by jono_misfit, on Flickr then checked again to make sure i can take out the fuel tank cover. No problem. then back to the gear stick surround. I'm in two minds about having it welded on or bolt on for access. Decided to try bolt on to see how it would work. drill a couple of holes P3164487 by jono_misfit, on Flickr dig out my handy corner cuts P3164488 by jono_misfit, on Flickr will go in here P3164489 by jono_misfit, on Flickr I tacked them in just to see how it will fit. I'm still uncertain, so will leave it for a bit longer this needs a panel still P3164490 by jono_misfit, on Flickr sheet steel cut out P3164491 by jono_misfit, on Flickr mark up some lines P3164492 by jono_misfit, on Flickr bead P3164493 by jono_misfit, on Flickr clean up and tack into position P3174494 by jono_misfit, on Flickr interior looks like this now P3174495 by jono_misfit, on Flickr P3174496 by jono_misfit, on Flickr looks quite race car to me P3174497 by jono_misfit, on Flickr column sticks out a looooong way but thats an indication of how far back you sit. Onto the next job on the list, which i looked at about 3 pages ago then got distracted by other things. The engine bridge. Template P3174498 by jono_misfit, on Flickr to go on this bulkhead to spread the load and provide a bolt on point. P3174499 by jono_misfit, on Flickr will sit about here P3174500 by jono_misfit, on Flickr There will be a strut going back into the dash bar to take the load back into the cage. forget to take pics for a bit.... end up with these 4 plates bolted together with captive nuts P3174501 by jono_misfit, on Flickr they still go here P3174503 by jono_misfit, on Flickr mark out and create a level line P3174504 by jono_misfit, on Flickr P3174505 by jono_misfit, on Flickr then attack with the hole saw P3174506 by jono_misfit, on Flickr jig made to keep straight / aligned P3174507 by jono_misfit, on Flickr P3174508 by jono_misfit, on Flickr clamped up P3174509 by jono_misfit, on Flickr and welded in place P3174510 by jono_misfit, on Flickr P3174511 by jono_misfit, on Flickr bolt plates back in P3174512 by jono_misfit, on Flickr That was the end of progress for the day. I've got a few things on so may be a while till the morris progresses.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,874
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Big fan of this thread
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,685
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Coming along nicely
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Mar 18, 2018 11:50:30 GMT
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Have you used captive nuts on the backs of the plates or just tapped plates?
Nice progress.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,787
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Mar 18, 2018 11:58:23 GMT
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There's welded on M10 nuts centred in an 11mm hole.
I thought i'd taken a picture of the back but apparently i missed it.
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