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Dec 21, 2016 20:12:54 GMT
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I would be careful about using too stiff bushes or joints in the "K-link" rear axle on these cars. Be very careful to check for binding, I advise to articulate the axle through the suspension movement (both bump/rebound and roll) with no springs to see that it doesn't bind. Generally speaking, a K-link needs rather soft bushes and/or trailing arms that can flex, since the design usually has inherent binding issues. A read-up on the Fox body Mustang rear suspension (same design) may be helpful. Gustaf Yea I'm aware of the inherent issues, I've rose jointed the lower arms as well so did a thorough check on the articulation, seems to all be free with no binding so all good! Right, back to the fun stuff: With design complete and the scan don to check the fit of all the parts its time to start making things. I've got access to a teeny tiny CNC mill so kept that in mind all the way through the design stage, I didn't want to outsource anything so it had to fit in the 150mm Y dimension...taught myself about G code and set to it. Test cut: Looks good so time to try it in something harder During... Part jut off the mill.. Onto the Bell crank mounts Repeat for the other side and the shock mount, de-burr, polish and assemble after making all the little spacers and shims to fit the bearings in correctly. Then put it in positon in the car to see how awesome its gonna look....
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Last Edit: Dec 21, 2016 20:22:33 GMT by Crallen
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v8
Part of things
Posts: 311
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Dec 22, 2016 19:24:19 GMT
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Top job I hate G Code
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Dec 22, 2016 21:14:42 GMT
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We use Artcam, makes it easy peasy
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Top job I hate G Code I like G Code :-) Reminds me of my Basic coding days. It has restrictions but is simple to use, which suits me fine :-)
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CNC work is fun :- Is there any pressure on the articulation joint? If so, I suggest (as I have done) that a steel top hat shaped sleeve is added between bolt and aluminium, as there is a good chance of wear and hole elongation due to the softness of the ally. )
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Last Edit: Dec 23, 2016 10:38:24 GMT by nalesutol
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v8
Part of things
Posts: 311
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Fun and frustrating sometimes
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v8
Part of things
Posts: 311
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Dec 23, 2016 10:07:06 GMT
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What grade of aluminium are you using for all these nice new bits ? There is going to a lot of load going through them ! What does it normally cost to get something laser scanned ? I'm thinking of getting a front hub scanned to a 3d solid model, I fancy making a pair from Alumec 89 for weight saving and because it will look pretty ! Keep the updates coming
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Dec 23, 2016 10:39:22 GMT
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Fun and frustrating sometimes I second that!
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Dec 23, 2016 10:56:20 GMT
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A similar setup to mine :-) My only slight concern is the single sheer on the pushrod bottom bolt. I am still thinking about that.
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Last Edit: Dec 23, 2016 10:57:34 GMT by nalesutol
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Dec 23, 2016 15:56:33 GMT
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Thanks guys, more updates coming when I have a bit of time over Xmas!
CNC work is definitely frustrating at times, very satisfying when it works though even for the simple stuff!
nalesutol - That setup looks incredible! Whats it on? All the joints in mine are rose jointed so can be clamped tight whilst maintaining articulation so I don't see the ally wearing but we will see! Its all a big experiment!
V8 - Cant remember the grade of the ally but consulted one of our material guys and he reckoned it would do the job fine. There a alot of load going through them but they are pretty chunky so I cant see any problems but we will see!
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Dec 23, 2016 17:12:21 GMT
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Dec 23, 2016 17:26:01 GMT
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Yea I can easily machine up some more wishbones or open up the holes if I need, the large hole at the bottom takes the bearings.
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Dec 23, 2016 18:59:24 GMT
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Thought so. I used linear bearings that act as both bearings and spacers.
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Dec 26, 2016 16:45:19 GMT
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RightHo Ho Ho, a nice chilled christmas has given me some time to update the thread (in amongst flying tiger moths...see IG). Lots of measuring later and its time to do the cutting, I pilot drilled all the holes first to check positioning and that they came through underneath in the right place then got to work with the hole saw. Due to the throw of the rod the as it travelled up and down a round hole was not going to give enough clearance before it was so big it would take out half the crossmember so I opted for an oval hole made using 2 holesaw holes. The holes would then be sleeved to link everything back together and create the channel through which the pushrod would run. First thigs first, cut a massive hole in each side The I testes the positon of the bell crank with a mocked up pushrod to check clearance to the body, you can see here theres only a round hole at the moment. I didn't want to cut out more than I had to so made the inital hole then checked everything, there wasnt enough clearance so more holes needed... Open up holes, align everything and clamp in position followed by a test fit of the sleeves. Once these were in position I tacked them in and checked everything again, full bump, droop and roll both sides were checked to make sure there was always plenty of clearance to the pushrods. Once all the checking and tacking was done I fully welded the sleeves in then plated around them top and bottom. The metal isnt massively thick and Id just cut some huge holes in it so wanted to retain as much strength as possible. Theres also another panel between the topand bottom so I opened up the hole to give me access to weld that to the sleeve too, the plates top and bottom then closed in those extra holes. I then whipped up some extra supports to brace under the central shock mount. A 5mm plate was welded to the underside of the crossmember as its quite thin then these braces added to the sides to link and triangulate everything back in. The shocks, shock mounts and bell cranks fitted and the full pushrod setup tried for size, Rideheight Full Bump Full Droop
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Dec 26, 2016 17:00:20 GMT
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Dec 26, 2016 21:58:07 GMT
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I had a hot 302 ford v8 in a mk3 for many years I remember tearing the diff arms clear out of the floor one day and having to weld them back in temp at work so I could get it home and fix properly It had a Toyota 5 speed behind it with a hydraulic clutch front brakes and suspension came from an Aussie 6 cylinder one as did the rear end
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Last Edit: Dec 26, 2016 22:00:00 GMT by nzsimon1
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Dec 26, 2016 22:07:34 GMT
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Nice work. What is the pushrod to damper ratio?
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Dec 26, 2016 22:27:23 GMT
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I had a hot 302 ford v8 in a mk3 for many years I remember tearing the diff arms clear out of the floor one day and having to weld them back in temp at work so I could get it home and fix properly It had a Toyota 5 speed behind it with a hydraulic clutch front brakes and suspension came from an Aussie 6 cylinder one as did the rear end Hopefully that wont happen to this! Was thinking of more power but its pretty happy as it is! Posted by nalesutol16 minutes ago Nice work. What is the pushrod to damper ratio? Think its about 1:1 at ride height, rises to about 1:1.2 during bump and 1:0.8 at droop, cant remember exactly and don't have the calcs with me.Whats yours? I could find Very little (read none!) info on rising rates when I designed it, so just went with it!
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Greta work man. Looks real good. Looking forward to more
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Jan 22, 2017 15:04:50 GMT
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How's this coming along? Any new progress?
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