1984 Granada BOA; arts and craft knife 6/4/24

In a word, yes.
If you can get the gaskets to stick and seal to the covers you're on to a winner.
I believe Ade on the fordpower.org site just used sealant between the top of the heads and covers themselves with no gasket at all

Cheers guys, I'll probably leave it for now because I don't think it's a major issue currently and I'm a bit concerned about inadvertently turning it into one!

Another quick question if I may, my BOA has some idling issues, I wouldn't exactly call it a misfire as such but it's not quite right, a bit 'bumpy' is the best way I can describe it, the idle speed also tends to hunt a bit between 750-1000 rpm and it occasionally cuts out when it's cold. Now the seller did mention he thought it could do with some inlet gaskets and 'unauthorised' air entering the system does seem a plausible explanation, so I'm going to change them as a starting point. Do you have any other suggestions to check if this doesn't cure it?

I know it's a pretty vague question that could be a multitude of things, are there any BOA common faults I should look out for

Thanks awfully and sorry to spam up your build thread with my questions.

Thanks, appreciate the reply. I've ordered a code reader, it's a Gunson something or other which apparently displays the codes as numbers rather than you having to count the flashes.

Interestingly though I was checking the wiring to the sensors you mentioned and the tps plug has a broken clip, I pushed it on a bit harder and hey presto, took it for a drive and when it warmed up (the time it's usually idling the worst) it idled perfectly. Now whether it will stay like that who knows, but it's definitely a prime suspect now.

Also I attempted to remove it for closer inspection, and noticed there is a little plastic clip inside which engages into the TPS to turn it and half of it is snapped off, I don't know whether that is affecting it too, but lord only knows if I'll be able to get another.

Just a little update today.
Last weekend was an oil and filter change after 10,000miles since the last one
Just over 196k on the clock now, and I think the ole girl was on about 93k when I purchased her 14years ago. About 70k of those are with the BOA lump and 4speedauto too!

Really should reinstate the oil housing and heat exchanger setup,but waiting to get a 27mm dowty washer and the manifold on the drivers side needs removing to fit that and get wrapped at the same time.

drive plate at a uess from the description,they tend to break around the bolt holes, or craCK BETWEEN the bolts,

damn it! no mead in the cupboard, so next best thing will do


So this morning I got to work before the boss did
On to the MoT ramp so I can have a look underneath the wagon with it in the normal driving position. Propshaft away from everything and all CV joints and both propshaft UJs all OK. So next port of call is to get the back wheels off the ground and rotate it all. Both rear wheels rotate ok, and in opposite directions even with the shifter in P. Something definately not right here. Grab the prop and try to rotate that and it's locked solid. Tentatively start the ole girl up and select drive with the back wheels up int he air, and almost instantly get the clunking from underneath. And all coming from the diff casing area

Unbolt the propshaft and thats all turning ok, narrows it down to the diff unit itself.
So todays lunchtime involved headinig home and getting the noisy original unit I replaced a few years ago. Gave that a bit of a clean out and a quick general birthday to swap over in to the car this evening......

big commiserations on the CWP... do you think it was the 24v power or the high mileage or both?

can you not swap that cog on its own for you whiney diffs one? never touched my diff so don't know if they're changeable.
drain holes a damn good idea!!!!!!!!

Drain plug is a good idea.
At least you have a spare diff to hand so you wont be off the road for long.