1967 Ford Anglia 105E - V6 Twin Turbo

In ye old days, the amount of air/fuel in the engine was determined by the carburettor.

Modern cars measure how much air is coming into the engine in a number of ways, and the Engine Control Unit uses this value to determine how long to open the Injector to add the right amount of fuel.

The two ways of measuring how much air is going into the engine is by using a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP).

The Mass Airflow Sensor originally used on the Mitsubishi Galant that the engine came from uses the phenomenon of a Kármán Vortex Street - the principle that air flowing around a blunt object comes back together in "pulses" to create vortices - the faster the air is flowing, the more vortices are created in a given time interval. (Other vehicles use different types of MAF, which measure the air in different ways)



This is where we get to the second method for detecting how much air is in the engine - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)

This method uses a pressure sensor in the manifold, and the engine speed to calculate how much air is in the engine.


Each of these methods also make use of an Intake Air Temperature sensor (air is more dense when it's cold), and a barometric pressure sensor (air is thinner as you go higher) to calculate the amount of air more accurately.



On the original Galant, the MAF is placed very early in the inlet - immediately after the filter, and before the turbos. Given the space constraints of the Anglia compared to the Galant - there is not enough room to locate the filter and MAF and get the air pipework to each of the turbo inlets.


Therefore, some clever soul in New Zealand invented the MAP-ECU. This little magic box of tricks makes use of a MAP sensor and engine RPM, and will emulate the frequency output of the original MAF, so that the standard ECU is still getting the signal it expects.

It can either be programmed from scratch with the correct values, or it can be run in "auto-learn" mode, where you will run the vehicle for a while with the original MAF still connected, and the MAP-ECU will learn what the standard MAF is outputting for the various pressure/RPM cells.


The problem I had with the engine not revving was that the MAP-ECU was not correctly configured for how I had wired it up. The original owner of the MAP-ECU had the RPM signal connected to the wire which had the pulses from all 6 spark plugs (so to get the correct RPM, you divide the number of pulses received by 6) - I had wired it to the signal for just 2 spark plugs - so as the engine revs increased, the MAP-ECU was not moving into the correct cell, and was not telling the standard ECU that there was more air going into the engine. Once I told the MAP-ECU to divide the number of pulses it's seeing by 2, it was reading the correct RPM.

Just broke out in to a huge grin when i watched the video of the engine being revved connected to the laptop .... good work!

The clutch pedal is just on the "heavy" side as it is now, with no assistance from the servo. Once the servo gets a vacuum - it'll go lighter. I'll then put it back towards "heavy" by putting a clutch in with higher clamping force - the current pressure plate is from an FTO and designed for ~200bhp and 200nm - I'll need one to do ~300bhp and 380nm - so that'll need more force to disengage.

I'm very happy with the current clutch situation

This may cause some heated discussion on some forums - the topic of rear axle and suspension.

Some will argue that the standard rear axle will be good enough for more power. My dad's experience says otherwise - in the early 70's he was breaking diffs with just a 1500GT engine and some aggressive starts - but those were the days when Anglias were easily found in scrap yards, and a diff could be broken on a Friday night, and a replacement sourced and fitted by lunchtime on Saturday.

However, this is 2013, and parts for a Ford Anglia aren't as easy to come by now.

Therefore - I have decided that I do not want to use any parts of the original rear axle.

I am absolutely not putting wider arches on it, so a wider axle is also out of the question, which means something custom made.

I have a perfectly good diff from the 200SX, which I know will take the ~300ft-lb of torque from the engine, as well as the rear hub units, so instead, I shall be making my own rear axle.

This will allow me to have it the exact width I need, using a diff that I know is good.

I had a long debate with my dad regarding what to do about rear suspension (since, in fact, when I purchased the 200SX), and we debated the original axle (not strong enough), and making either 1) a new live axle, 2) a de-dion tube or 3) fully independent


After discussion of the advantages and disadvantages of each, we decided on a de-dion tube setup. The wheels are linked together, much like a live axle, but instead of the diff being part of this, it is mounted to the floor, with a pair of driveshafts with CV joints to allow travel in the suspension. This will then have a 5-link setup to allow movement and location, with a pair of trailing arms on either side, and a panhard rod to prevent sideways travel of the axle.




The above is a design by Rorty Designs, published a number of years back for the LocostBuilders site, based around Sierra parts to replace an Escort live axle on a Lotus-7 style kit car, and has been made by kit-car owners a number of times.

I will not be using Sierra bits (as I don't have any), so instead will be using this as a general idea of what to do based around the 200SX bits that I do have.

To begin, we set up a board with the wheels and diff, setting the wheels parallel and at the desired width to allow the wheels & tyres to sit within the confines of the standard wheelarches.



We then began to align the differential to the car, aligning it centrally (to give us equal length driveshafts) - which does mean that the nose will be slightly offset, but the propshaft has enough movement to allow this slight offset.



With the diff alignment mostly sorted, it was then time to look at the de-dion part of the suspension.

In order to attach the hubs, we need to make up some plates to affix this tube to the bearings. Firstly, was to strip down the 200SX rear hubs, and leave ourselves with the wheel bearing and brake disc assembly. The 265mm discs fit nicely under the 13" Ford wheels.




We then start with a template, which will be the first piece of the puzzle. This will bolt to the wheel bearing, and will have the de-dion tube attached to (#2 in the above plans).



When this was cleaned up, it was attached to the bearing unit.



Caliper mounts (#3 in the above plans) were then made to take the 200SX brakes, putting them in the correct position, giving plenty of clearance within the wheels.



Next is to make the hub bucket (#6 in the above plans), attach the main de-dion tube (#1), and make up the trailing arm brackets (#7), trailing arms, panhard rod (#12) and the other little brackets to affix.

Lovely work, and good call on sorting out the rear axle, it would have been a painful process doing it at a later date.

One thing, please please please put an intercooler on the engine. The mitsubishi mapping will have been optimised for an intercooler, as will the detonation detection. Not putting on one will at least cause a significant drop in power, and at worst cause cracked piston ringlands

Keep up the sterling work

J

Just seen this build thread for the first time (No idea why)


I had a 1967 Anglia 1200 Super years ago, but it was not like this.......


This read has almost a Zen like feeling to me, and amazing build.


I really hate the word EPIC that is used to describe everything from toilet paper to F1 cars all in the same sentence, but your car and build deserves it.

grizz, thanks for the comments

Blown_Imp, I've got an electric pump already (I think from a Jag XKR), and an "old" (brand new) ally heater core which I will use initially which cost nothing, and then am looking at a barrel chargecooler from FrozenBoost.com, and it should sit across the top of the engine, replacing the bit of pipe currently running along the top of the cam cover (that bit of pipe is the exact same length as the chargecooler...)

There's very little space for anything else other than that!

Great thread just read it all, but I must have missed what gearbox you are using? cheers

I've just had something drop through my door...



A couple of months ago, I had a couple of guys from Classic Ford come and visit for the day, and they've written up an article for the Grafters section in Classic Ford.

So - grab yourself a copy of the June 2013 edition of Classic Ford and check out page 8.