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Apr 16, 2013 22:09:31 GMT
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I've not looked into it seriously yet, it's a pipe dream. The present engine is healthy enough, a little underpowered for the car maybe, but perfectly usable. Engine swaps are never easy though, are they? Even when you know one should just bolt in, there's always a dozen things that are the wrong shape and in the wrong place.
I did have naughty thoughts of putting turbo diesel BX running gear in the Princess, but it's completely anathema to the ethos of the build as I see it. Would be fun if it could be made to work though.
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Apr 16, 2013 23:07:15 GMT
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purple velvet metallic is a mid 70's ford colour most often seen on 1300E escort & 2000E cortina. black tulip was a dark purple BL 70's colour.
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theres more to life than mpg & to much power is just enough.
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Apr 17, 2013 21:06:53 GMT
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In my mind i can see it a little lower to the ground with some huge SU carbs on and some trumpets That and a better flowing exhaust and itll open up some horses...
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Apr 24, 2013 20:21:39 GMT
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I can't go any lower, not sensibly, I'd never get over any bumps with the current engine and box set up. ___ Today, my recently acquired mirrors turned up for the Princess a good week ahead of when I expected them to. My theory was with them being such a bargain, if they turned out to be good I'd fund them by selling the long necked chrome jobbies I was going to fit instead. Originally I wanted to mount them on the door, but I just couldn't see anything so on the wings they went. I prefer wing mirrors anyway. First job was to find out where the mirrors sat on the car so I could see them, this meant dismantling them a bit and then taping them to the bodywork. Using a bit of gaffer rolled up on itself seats the mirror onto the bodywork and a bit of tape holds them in the desired location. Bonnet clearance was tight on the trial fit, but I could open and close it without bumping anything, I wanted things to fit quite snug. This allowed me to mark one mirror location, then measure the other wing so they both sit in the same place and drill the holes. Unfortunately, I had to enlarge the windscreen side holes a little on both sides because they fouled the bonnet by about a millimetre. The holes were giving a good coat of rust preventative to tide me over until I repaint/replace/repair the wings. Dad popped out to see what I was up to, which was really useful for getting the mirrors bolted in place properly and checking clearances as I could do the heavy work and dad could do the light work of holding the mirrors in place. I think they really suit the car. Visibility is even better than the original Tex door mirrors and once I move the passenger wiper properly I'll have full visibility out of the mirror on that side. The mirrors are both tinted, the driver's side more so than the passenger which will come in handy on motorways at night, and they have convex glass which gives me an excellent field of vision. My only problem is that whenever I get behind the wheel I get these little markers appear above pedestrians.
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Apr 24, 2013 20:54:14 GMT
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I like them... Ive seen those style for sale before and actively considered buying a car to fit them to..... You have a good eye for it.. Suits the princess very well.. The 70's boxyness goes realy well with the squared off japanese style wing mirrors.. If they were any bigger it wouldnt have worked tho.. So very good choice..
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Apr 24, 2013 21:31:43 GMT
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Nice touch, think I have pair of similar mirrors in my shed along with torpedo and Merc 114 mirrors which have all been on my car at some point. Amazing how many pairs or set of things you buy for your car before you decide what you want
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Apr 25, 2013 10:14:29 GMT
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Those mirrors are pure perfection...
You just cannot beat the 1970's for a bit of superb car accessorising...!!!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Apr 27, 2013 13:39:08 GMT
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On those mirrors, I've done some research and found a little bit of information out.
The mirrors are normally a satin black plastic case and were produced in the 70s by the Spanish company Reguvis. This particular model is the Sprint but wasn't a strong seller and as a result is not that well known or widely available. Original condition mirrors seem to go for about £30 a pair whether they're the plastic bodied ones like mine or the aluminium bodied ones that were also available.
I paid about a fiver for this pair and they have been poorly repainted in a purple (that I quite like) which could easily be removed to return them to the original condition. I'm not sure what I'm doing with them on that score, body coloured, satin black or chromed/polished would all work equally well with the rest of the planned changes for the car.
In other news, I'm going to have to fork out for a rebuild kit on the carb. Intermittently, it's throwing fuel out of the carb now that I've replaced all the old fuel pipes, sometimes in large enough quantities for me to be concerned about its location over the exhaust manifold. This is one of those jobs I was going to do eventually but not immediately as the carb wasn't giving me any real problems once it was set up but now it's been bumped up the list.
Other than that, there are no pressing concerns. An oil change wouldn't go amiss, neither would another coolant flush, and I'd like to get the suspension pumped up to where it should be as it has dropped further since my accident last year, the change in ride was noticeable on my trek to the MoT station, feeling a lot harder but not firmer, rather like when conventional suspension has minimal damping and soft springs, not a great sensation. But then it is effectively lowered nearly 2" at the front and 3" at the back thanks to hydro-sag so handling and comfort is going to end compromised at that.
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Been trying polishing again. With no drill I'm having to work by hand but because the Lotus alloys were polished from new it's not as hard going as it might be. They look okay as they are, with the exception of needing the black paint redoing obviously. I couldn't really see or feel the imperfections that were keeping me from a mirror finish so I made use of the super-macro setting on the camera to see what needed doing. You can make out on the central 'cup' where there's some surface scratches, some of which are deeper than the 400 grit I started with could make. Some might be from the original casting and machining, I'm not sure. Super macro mode highlights the imperfections in the surface quite well. All these little pits and scratches are what's preventing me from getting a really crisp mirror polish. You can see some of the imperfections a little easier on the rim, especially on the inner edge where there's still casting lines visible. However, you can see that for much of the outer rim the finish is very close, I probably just need to work on it a bit more than I have to get it to really shine properly. I think I probably just need to spend a bit more time going over the wheel a tiny spot at a time until it's properly perfectly smooth and make more use of the super-macro setting so I can see when the rim is actually as smooth as I need it for polishing. It's much easier to polish paint, and much more satisfying while you're doing it too.
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retrolegends
Club Retro Rides Member
Winging it.....Since 1971.
Posts: 3,726
Club RR Member Number: 94
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Gonna look awesome!
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1974 Hillman Avenger 1500DL1992 Volvo 240SE1975 Datsun Cherry 100a flying custard1965 Hillman SuperMinx Rock N Roller1974 Austin Allegrat Mk1 1.3SDL1980 Austin Allegro Mk3 1.3L1982 Austin Allegro Mk3 on banded steels2003 Saab 9-3 Convertible 220bhp TurboNutter1966 Morris Minor 1000 (Doris) 2019 Abarth 595C Turismo (not retro but awesome fun) www.facebook.com/DatsunCherry100a
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Those alloys are nothing short of perfection and an inspired choice!!! I truly cannot wait to see them bolted on the Princess... Rebuilding the carb' can only be a good thing anyway as it's well worth doing as a route to increasing power and reducing fuel consumption (both in tiny amounts of course!!!) of the old motor not to mention smoother running... As always, this is looking great
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Few things to report now. I've ordered the replacement part for the carb that will hopefully resolve my over-fuelling issue and at £6.50 it seemed rude not to. I also contacted Adrian Flux to chase up my quote with them as nobody else could come close; instead of £1000 to insure the BX, they quoted £730 for the BX and the Princess with the bonus of unlimited mileage and commuting and 60 day European travel cover. Obviously, I'm going for that as it's super cheap and a decent policy. Buoyed up by some good news for once I decided it was high time the Princess got some attention, she's been very patient with me. The main job on my mind was to reconnect the bottom vents on the dash and relocate the wire that gets in the way of the blower speed slider. That didn't happen because I was SHAMED into cleaning the Princess who was looking decidedly down at heel. Oh, and I put my nodding tiger back in, this time with some blu-tak under his paws to keep him from scooting around. If nothing else, he's creepy enough to stop people tailgating me. Today I outdid myself on the cleaning and got the vacuum cleaner into the engine bay to suck out some detritus that was difficult to pick out. I have never done this before, it must have looked very strange to anyone watching. But she scrubbed up well and while the bonnet drank about a quart of polish it does at least look that bit tidier and feel that bit smoother every time I do clean it. I love this car, but not in a wanting-to-marry-it kind of way, I'm not that weird. Problems next, obviously. Paint lift is happening all over the shop, it's worse on the bits of the car that are handled regularly, like the driver's door handle. It's popping up in other places too, like the rear door handle on the same side. Looks like someone has opened a door into me at some point too, I'm not sure when that would be, but the paint is lifting in a big sheet here and I'm loathe to prod at it. It's not so evident in the photograph, but water can get under the paint and that's only going to help it lift more. Disappointing. I still haven't dealt with this door. I will, when I've got a working drill again and can clean it up properly. There's quite a lot of filler here, I'm not sure how much door corner is actually left. More paint lift, this time at the bottom of the passenger A pillar. It's lifting all along the edge of the windscreen rubber which is itself disintegrating steadily. Clearly, I didn't do a good enough rust-removal job on this pillar. I'll go back over it again, but this was the worst visible bit of rust on the car when I bought it and is much better than it might have been had I left the vinyl on. That rear screen really is going to have to come out and I'm dreading it. Rear screens and rubbers aren't exactly commonplace, but more rust bubbles are appearing along this edge and I know it'll need doing sooner rather than later. Finally, my dashboard let me know that while most of the telltales had responded well to my fix last year, the sidelight telltale decided it didn't like being all nice and has come unglued. I'll just redo this and put it back in the dash, quick and easy job. In other, happier news, I've determined that I'm going to get some Mumford style murals applied to the flanks and dashboard insert eventually, I've got some ideas but until they're more concrete that's all I'm saying on the subject.
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Typical cheap respray. They don't bother rubbing the paint down properly & just blow it over. Only cure is to sand it all off & do it again.
Re the rust. What rust cure did you use? Use proper rust killer like Jenolite or something.
Then of course you only use rattle cans, sorry to seem a bit harsh (don't mean to be) but they only put on about 1 micron of paint, so no protection whatsoever.
You need to bite the bullet & use 2 pack epoxy primer. You can easily apply this by roller (Wickes gloss 4" rollers) which will give a good finish and avoid all the issues with spraying & airborne particles. You still need a good mask though.
This will properly seal your metal against the elements and provided you have killed the rust properly you wont have any major problems in the future.
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I used Kurust. If applied, removed and applied it does tend to deal very well with any rust apart from heavily pitted areas. The purple wing, which was completely stripped of paint, treated, stripped and treated again before getting several coats of primer followed by several coats of celly has stood up remarkably well compared to the acrylic on the C pillar.
I wasn't really that thrilled with the C pillar work, the paint particularly was like water and as you know I'm not a fan of spray painting due to the mess of it all. Ideally, I'd like to remove the rear window, repair the rust and repaint the C pillars in beige celly properly but it'll have to wait in the short term.
I'm wondering if it's worth peeling the loose paint off to prevent it from trapping dirt and moisture and causing more rust, I'm not sure what the best course of action is in my situation. I've got to focus on getting mechanical stuff done - oil change, brakes bled, new rear shoes, carb service &c. - before the cosmetic things and while I don't mind the shed-look I've got going on at the moment I don't want it to be the long term outlook.
Of the panels on the car, I reckon the rear window and the rear passenger door are the two areas in need of the most attention and will probably get said attention soonest to stop them deteriorating further. All a case of having the time and the money to do it well at the moment.
Is it best to leave the peely paint alone, or should I try and pick off the loose stuff and protect the surface beneath with fresh paint so it gets no worse?
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So far so good on the fix-one-thing-a-day plan. My new float needle arrived which I was hoping would help with the leaky carb and less than perfect running. I knew it was needed, but didn't realise just how much until I saw a new needle (right) next to the old (left). I had to change this without taking the carb off the car as I don't have a replacement throttle and clutch cable and the ones fitted have frayed on the ends so won't be able to be rethreaded if removed. Quite annoying, really. The carb is still sweating fuel on the side it was leaking, but it's only a dampness. There are no gaskets in this carb and haven't been since before I got the car, only a rubber O ring that seals the base plate. I'm wondering if a set of paper gaskets and a new O ring will resolve the issue fully. The new float needle has reduced the leaking issue massively and the engine runs a fair bit smoother, though I suspect the idle might be a bit on the high side now, something to fiddle with later. The other job I tackled was the airbox. Like much of the repainted bits of the car, the airbox was given a liberal coating of black gloss before I bought the car, complete with runs, sags and dust contamination. The plastic elbow was covered in poor black paint and silver overspray, most of which came off just by running it under the tap and the stubborn bits were removed with the aid of my thumbnail. Stripped the airbox into its component parts and found that the tinging noise I'd been getting is the flap that's part of the hot/cold air feed, I'm guessing it should have a bit of rubber or cork to prevent the metal making a noise which has long since fallen off. I didn't have any paint stripper so I couldn't clean up the jubilee type clips but I will at a later date so they don't let the side down. Didn't take too long to blitz the surface of the components with some 120 grit, prime with some grey and top coat with some satin black. The whole thing looks far smarter now than it did, I'm happy with that job. Before (March 2012) After - I've noticed that I've put the hot/cold bit on differently to how it was, I hope that won't cause any problems, I can't see how it would. I'll go back at a later date and do a proper job, I'd like to strip the parts back to bare metal so they can be rust treated properly and some of the imperfections removed. They might be repainted a different colour too, but for now I'm very pleased with them. Once I know I've got what I need to seal it all up properly, I'll remove the rocker cover and get the bad silver paint removed from it. I'll have to disturb the fuel pump and the distributor to do that, annoyingly, but it should make a big difference to the cosmetics under the bonnet and I'll be able to resolve the minor oil leaks at the same time.
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The "tinkling flap" (Oo'er Missus) had a foam ring on it when new keep up with the fettling
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VW Passat GL5
VW Passat GL saloon
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Hey vulgalour - this is a cool project I've been following for a few weeks, its intereesting to see such an unusual car, with regards to the paintwork - ever thought about a bare metal restoration, Retro Power in Leicestershire do complete bare shell media blasting: www.retropower.co.uk/facilities_media_blasting.htm
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YES to the nodding tiger...!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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teatank: good to know, I may reinstate something a little more permanent than foam if it annoys me in the future. jamesuk: I've thought about it, but it's too involved at the moment, really mainly down to space as the money could probably be got over the course of the year. I'd need somewhere to store all the stuff I took off before sending the shell away, then I'd need somewhere under cover to keep the shell while all the repairs are made and the paint applied and then I'd have to rebuild the entire car. Not an option right now, but a route I'd like to go so I can ensure the shell is as solid and rust free as possible. Besides which, this is my going to be my daily again in a few weeks time while I work through the repairs on the BX so getting that involved in restoration is something that would get in the way
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Keep at it, you'll get there in the end.
Re the rear screen, i'd have a word with the local windscreen place to get it removed/refitted. Plus get somewhere under cover sorted, i'll bet the corrosion will be worse than expected so you'll have to sort it before you can refit ....
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