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Feb 10, 2012 16:09:55 GMT
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hi all i have a mk2 breadvan which has developed a problem, it starts fine, and idles fine when cold, however when warm it just cuts out! it restarts no problem but just cuts out if you don't keep your foot on the accelerator, i have changed the coil, carb (and checked rubber mount),the dizzy and leads, even the thermostat, but cant think what else to check. does any body have any other ideas?
any help greatly appreciated as its driving me mad! cheers Adam.
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Feb 10, 2012 16:16:57 GMT
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fuel filter might be worth a go and check the fuel lines
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Feb 10, 2012 17:25:29 GMT
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yeah i did think about that but it runs fine for about 20 minutes every time, just until it gets warm then, bam , cuts out. i did think about the auto choke but it seems to be working fine and i changed that as well when i changed the carb.
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Feb 10, 2012 18:23:15 GMT
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if you let it idle up to normal temperature without driving is it fine? or is it fine with normal driving and just stalls when you get to a junction? My 1L doesnt like cold air so this how I now run it in winter to stop it stalling.  in the standard airbox there is a flap with an vacuum operated flap that causes the engine to use cold air as throttle is opened. and this is how I used to run it in winter  |
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Feb 10, 2012 19:02:14 GMT
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it cuts out when your driving it when you put the clutch down or if you just let it idle, as soon as it reaches normal temp it just cuts out , but I will have a go at that anyway ive got nothing to loose trying it. cheers anyway.
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john61
Part of things
just give in to it
Posts: 32
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Feb 10, 2012 21:44:20 GMT
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are there any air leaks after changing the carb  did u use new gaskets and refit all the vacuum pipes and any blanking plugs ? |
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Porsche 911 SC
VW T25 SYNCRO
BSA C 15
HONDA CBR 1000
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Feb 11, 2012 12:08:29 GMT
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the gasket looked like new , and the carb was a direct replacement . i also renewed all the breather pipes. could it be the little orange breather block thing inside the airbox?
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Feb 11, 2012 13:17:22 GMT
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Start the car up with a little choke if necessary so it ticks over then squirt carb cleaner or easy start all around the inlet manifold and carb base if the revs rise you have an air leek.
When warm rig up a secondary fuel tank out of a pop bottle and see if it runs that way you can rule out fuel issue's.
I'm putting my money on the carb base just cos it looks aright doesn't say it is..
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Feb 11, 2012 16:14:16 GMT
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just tried the carb cleaner around the base of the carb but for some reason the car is now running very lumpy so i couldent tell if the revs rose, but i have got a new rubber mount so i think i will just change it anyway. cheers for the advice .
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Feb 12, 2012 13:29:23 GMT
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right i have changed the rubber mount under the carb, put it all back together, all breather pipes,fuel pipes etc , and it still cuts out when it warms up! really had enough of this now , any body want to buy my car i will attach a pic.  |
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Feb 12, 2012 13:40:06 GMT
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Bradbull don't give up man its such a sweet breadvan it'll only be something daft,
Are/Do you know someone in the AA RAC once they arrive on-site they have to spend an hour diagnosing stuff.............
Is it on points ignition?
If the condenser is US or the points need checking/setting up???
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Feb 12, 2012 13:53:51 GMT
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really don't want to get rid of it but its just driving me mad , as for aa/rac i need to check if i have home start or i need to be a certain distance from home but i suppose its worth a try . i have changed the rotor arm dizzy cap and leads but i do have a spare dizzy so i may try changing that as well , cheers for the advice mate .
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Feb 12, 2012 14:06:17 GMT
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right just spoke to the aa and they are sending someone out to look at it so fingers crossed.
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Feb 12, 2012 17:09:10 GMT
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right the aa man has been and apparently there is no power getting to the carb! is this controlled by relay no 24 ? cheers Adam.
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Feb 12, 2012 17:15:54 GMT
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Wohoo.
I have some relay's in't workshop I'll have a squint...
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Feb 12, 2012 17:41:21 GMT
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ah nice one mate that would be super!
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Feb 13, 2012 16:36:10 GMT
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ok so changing the relay has had no effect! the only way i can get the car to run properly is by running a 12v feed straight from the battery to the power input on the back of the carb. is this safe? will it drain the battery ? does anyone know how to cure this problem ? could it just e a fuse? any help greatly apprieciated. Adam
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Feb 13, 2012 17:35:15 GMT
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i would start checking you wiring from carb back to see if any wires have broken, snapped, worn out?
for now run a fused wire
and switch into the cab so you can switch it of at least you can use it then.
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 1995 mk3 cavalier 1.8i 1972 1200 beetle 2010 1.2 fiat 500 "sometime's" 2000 suzuki gsxr 600 srad |
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Feb 13, 2012 17:41:17 GMT
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Try all the fuses I'm not sure if the carb sol is fused.
If you run a fused wire from the battery (or ignition switch) to the carb then that's you away.
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Feb 13, 2012 17:44:11 GMT
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ok mate cheers.
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did u use new gaskets and refit all the vacuum pipes and any blanking plugs 