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Jan 27, 2012 13:25:34 GMT
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I've been asking a lot of technical questions and still have many more to ask. It seems to make sense to have a single thread for it. For my own ease of reference, I'm going to group the links together and continue asking questions just in this thread, with a handy link in my build thread so I can find it easily. Interior QuestionsRWD conversionModifying Rear ValanceBumper Colour Poll (technically, I guess this is closed now, since I decided)Grille suggestions (also now sorted)Wheel suggestionsOil in Distributor3/4" Light Unit (solved)Rear Light LegalitiesLearning to Weld - RecommendationsCurrent question is about my new wheels. Polo is 6mm centre bore, 4x100. I don't know the offset. New wheels are 6mm centre bore, 4x98, I don't know the offset. Need to get a more precise measuring tool, I only know the PCD for definite. The rear wheels fit snugly on the hubs and with wobble bolts will present no problems as far as I can tell. The front wheels are obstructed by the brake caliper. Having followed a measuring guide online it would appear I need 25mm spacers on the front. So the questions are what sort of spacers should I use (hubcentric or not) and do I have to space the rear out equally? I'm aware I may need to massage the arches slightly at the back, but this isn't a problem as they're getting modified eventually anyway. As always, a big thank you to everyone that's been able to offer advice and answers to my questions.
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2012 18:05:37 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 27, 2012 13:38:50 GMT
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If I were you I would use hubcentric spacers (as your hubs have centering rings) and you don't need to space the rears out too.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jan 27, 2012 17:32:49 GMT
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For 25mm you'll need to use hubcentric spacers as you're using wobble bolts. With wobble bolts the wheels need to be centered on the hub by the spigot, as the bolts won't do it, so the spacers have to be hubcentric so that you've still got a spigot for the wheel to sit on.
You don't need to space the rear wheels as well, but a 25mm spacing difference will be very noticeable visually.
With the centerbore/spigot sizes, you need to be more accurate than 6cm (I assume you mean cm, not mm?). Your Polo will be a 57.1mm centerbore, I'm not sure what the Lancia wheels will be, but it needs to be the same, not just close. If there's a difference then you could get the hubcentric spacers made so that they take up the difference easily enough, or use off the shelf spacers and spigot rings.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jan 27, 2012 17:54:52 GMT
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i think fiat/lancia is 58mm, as thats what my lada was- i had to take my front hubs off and machine the snout down for my VW fitment (57.1CB) ATS classics to fit.
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Jan 27, 2012 19:35:28 GMT
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I think I need a more accurate measuring device, I do mean 6cm rather than 6mm. Sounds like this is going to be more work than my internet searching led me to believe initially.
I may be wide of the mark, but would adaptors do the trick easier? So I get some 4x100 to 4x98 adaptors that can also serve the duty of spacers and do away with the wobble bolts as I could, in theory, get adaptors with the correct centre bore both sides?
I'm struggling to know what to search for online to get answers and friends in the real world that might know haven't done this sort of thing before.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Yeah, adapters would work fine, but it's not a common fitment for them, because it's close enough that most people use wobble bolts on them. You've got 3 main options, first off, the ideal solution, would be adapters, with a 57.1mm center bore on the back, drilled with seats for bolts at 4x100mm, and then with a 58mm spigot on the front of them, and drilled with a set of threaded holes, or with a set of studs at 98mm pcd. These would probably need making for you (There's a few guys on here who could knock some up I believe.), but you might get lucky and find some off the shelf. Expect to pay ~£80-100 per pair if you find them off the shelf, maybe less if you get lucky. I'm not sure how much it'd be to have some made, but it may well be less than that if you provide some half decent drawings, it'd completely depend who made them for you though, so I couldn't put a figure on it. The next option would be hubcentric spacers, with a centerbore on the back of 57.1mm, and a front spigot of 58mm, so the wheels are centered properly, then use wobble bolts to make up the difference in PCD. Hubcentric spacers that sort of thickness come in 2 flavors. They'll either bolt to your hub, and then the wheel bolts to the spacer, or you use long bolts that go right through the spacer and into the hub. In the second case you'll need to find wobble bolts that are long enough to go right through the spacer though. Like the adapters, these spacers are unlikely to be found off the shelf, but if you do they should be cheaper, more like £30-50 per pair. To get them made, the type with long bolts would be cheaper, as only one set of holes need drilling, and they don't need any bolt seats or threads machining into them, but the type that bolts to the hub, and then the wheel bolts to the spacer won't be any cheaper to have custom made than adapters would, so there'd be no point, you might as well use adapters and save the cost/complication of the wobble bolts. Another option would be to use 25mm VW fitment hubcentric spacers, with a 57.1mm centerbore and spigot, and then use a spigot ring to bring the centerbore on the wheels down to size, and wobble bolts to attach the wheel. The trouble here is that you'd be after a 0.45mm thick spigot-ring, which wont exist, so you'd probably have to have the wheels machined out to a couple of mm bigger, so you could fit a properly sized spigot ring. If you could find someone willing to do it, you could theoretically also get someone to build up some weld around the centerbore and re-machine it to the correct 57.1mm. Then there's also the option of getting the wheels welded up and re-drilled. I don't remember your wheels having centercaps that cover the bolts, so it might not be the easiest job to do neatly enough to look nice. Depends who's doing it though. They've only got to move the bolt holes out 1mm, so if there's the thickness there you could potentially get the tapers re-cut slightly deeper so they center the bolts at 4x100 without having to add any metal. Obviously you'd still need the spacers to clear the brakes though, so this would only solve the wobble bolts issues. And breath. ;D Do you happen to have a picture of your front brakes? If I remember right there was two types of front caliper used on mk2 Polos, and one may well have more clearance than the other. I also remember that the caliper carriers are the bit that usually hits, and are removable aren't they? I think you might be able to get carriers that will still work with your current calipers, but give a lot more clearance. If I'm remembering right these would come off some of the lower spec mk3 Golfs, and maybe a few other VW's. It's something you'd have to research a bit, as it's a long time since I've owned a Polo, but I'm pretty sure there's an option for a carrier that gives more clearance. Edit, if your brakes look like this: Then they're the ones I mean that are common to give clearance issues. I'm pretty sure you can get carriers that don't have the loop around the front of the caliper, so give a lot more clearance. (if it's the back of the spokes that's hitting). Like I say, I'm not 100% where to source the carriers from, but a low spec mk3 golf would be a good starting point.
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Last Edit: Jan 28, 2012 0:39:37 GMT by RobinJI
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Jan 28, 2012 11:48:49 GMT
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if you do have the 'loop' style carriers I have a set of non loop type. (see you can tell this is the technical section by the technical words being used ) They were freshly refurbed and painted a delicious bronze colour. If you want them they're yours. As for the wheels. I tend to be a wary of using too many 'bits' to make wheels fit. I think if I were you i'd go for getting the hubs of the wheels sorted to fit your requirment. By the time you've bought spacers, and all the rest of the stuff you'll need you could probably get the wheels sorted.
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1980 Derby GLS 1992 Rover 216 Gti - Sold 2006 Hilux - Sold (boo hoo) need a 2wd pickup. Anyone? 2009 Avensis Tourer - Gone 1993 Mk1 Golf Cabby 1983 mk1 golf. Project rust bucket 1998 Toyota Corolla. Project crash repair 2007 Volvo V70. Daily for sale!
Looking for a winter project - any suggestions?
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Jan 28, 2012 15:59:32 GMT
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The more information I get about this, the more I realise it's a good idea to ask! I could easily have marched into a cheap but curse word solution. I don't have the loop-carriers, I have these (sorry it's a rubbish picture) The wheels look like this. So the ideal is really to have the wheels modified to fit the hubs, that would then mean if I wanted to use one of my 4x100 sets over the winter, for example, I could do so easily. The info RobinJI has provided is excellent, it clarifies the options for me, so thank you for that, I just have to decide which route is the best one. The money side of it isn't an issue, the more it costs the longer it takes for me to do the job. borednow: I'm told there's two types of caliper of the style mine is. One style pushes the brake pad evenly against the disc, the other (which is what I have) pushes it first one side then the other and aren't as good. I might be describing that badly... basically, trying to ask if you've got the good version or the bad version on offer there. In a couple of days I'll go and do some measuring, I can't at the moment as my wrist is giving me grief today so doing much more than typing on forums isn't an option for now.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jan 28, 2012 16:29:07 GMT
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Yeah, in an ideal world you'd be best off making the wheels fit the hubs, but if you're going to want to space them anyway, for whatever reason, then there's no disadvantage to using a bolt on adapter. You can always unbolt the adapter to go back to your old wheels or fit the spare. The hubcentric spacers + wobble bolts isn't as ideal solution, but wouldn't be unsafe at all, as long as all the center bores match up. The main thing to remember, is that the bolts hold the wheel to the hub through friction between the hub face and the wheels back face. The bolts shouldn't actually be being loaded at all other than the tension from doing them up. However you need some way of locating the wheel on the hub while they're being done up, and in the event that a wheel gets hit and loaded past normal levels. In this instance having a correctly sized center bore will keep the load off the bolts, and will locate the wheel perfectly every time you bolt it on. Some cars do run without a central spigot locating the wheel without issue, but these rely on the bolts to locate the wheel as you do it up, so with wobble bolts you need the central location, as the wheel can float about on the bolts a little. If you were to get the wheels re-drilled to 4x100, then you could potentially run without worrying about the centerbore, and just be careful when you do up the bolts, but it's not how the car was originally designed to be used, and if somewhere has the facilities to re-drill the PCD, they can probably open up the centerbore a touch so you can fit spigot rings. I don't have the loop-carriers, I have these (sorry it's a rubbish picture) . Those are the loop type carriers The bit we're talking about isn't the actual caliper, it's the carrier that the caliper bolts to and slides along. This piece has a shaped section at the top and bottom of the caliper that locates the pads, yours joins these 2 together with a loop around the front of the caliper, while some others don't do this, and just have the sections that the pads rest on, with no loop joining them, which gains a lot of clearance at the front. I'm fairly sure that mk2 Polos only came with VWI and VWII calipers, which are quite similar in terms of dimensions, and fit on the same carriers. Both are a single piston sliding caliper, so work in exactly the same way, but the VWII caliper can take vented discs or solid discs (with thicker or thinner pads to suit), while the VWI calipers can only take solid ones. I wouldn't worry much about which calipers you have as long as they're working fine, but you should gain a fair bit of clearance by going to the 'non loop type' carriers. This is the other type of carrier with probably the same calipers as yours, but you can see the lack of a big loop around the front taking up a load of space: Before going too much further, I'd be tempted to take a caliper off, bolt a wheel on loosely and drop the car onto the wheel, just to see where it sits in the arch. You may find that you actually want it sitting quite a lot further out, so will want to space it anyway, regardless of the brakes, or you may find it's hitting the arch, so you'll need to do something about the brake clearance, and spacing isn't an option. Also you say you're not worried about cost, but there comes a point where you're spending enough that you could buy a set of wheels you like just as much/more, that will bolt strait on and work. It depends how much these specific wheels mean to you. I know you've been excited about getting them (which is more than fair), but you do need to have a think, if this is going to cost you x-amount, then what else could you buy for x-amount + whatever you could sell those wheels for.
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Jan 28, 2012 17:55:13 GMT
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Right... I think when I can I'll be removing bits and measuring and photographing. I see what you mean about the loop type now, I'd misunderstood the first example picture and thought I was seeing a large separate loop when in actual fact I was looking at a single casing incorrectly.
I shall investigate and report back.
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Jan 28, 2012 18:30:19 GMT
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looks like they may be g40 carriers, in which case the carriers from any other late mk2 or mk3 polo will fit. from left to right in the pic above they are mk1 golf gti(vented), mk3 polo (solid), polo g40 (vented) from left to right in the pic above they are mk1 golf, g40, mk3 polo if your brake pads backing plate (the metal part on my hand) is the same as the one in this picture, then you can use the same carriers as these.
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Jan 29, 2012 14:22:57 GMT
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Your brakes are the early type of mk2 brakes by the look of them. I'm afraid you are stuck with them as they are. nless you change the brake set up that is.
So back to spacers then mate!
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1980 Derby GLS 1992 Rover 216 Gti - Sold 2006 Hilux - Sold (boo hoo) need a 2wd pickup. Anyone? 2009 Avensis Tourer - Gone 1993 Mk1 Golf Cabby 1983 mk1 golf. Project rust bucket 1998 Toyota Corolla. Project crash repair 2007 Volvo V70. Daily for sale!
Looking for a winter project - any suggestions?
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jan 29, 2012 14:58:22 GMT
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I'm pretty sure he's got VWI calipers (the middle on in optima21's first photo), a clearer photo would help a lot. If they are the VWI calipers I'm pretty sure they are interchangeable with VWII's in terms of carriers, so I don't see why the non-loop type wouldn't fit. I swapped my old mk2 1.3 Golf from VWI to VWII calipers so I could go vented and I didn't have to change the carriers (the carrier's built into the hub on Mk2 Golfs).
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Jan 29, 2012 15:17:40 GMT
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yeah VW I and VW II calipers are interchangable on the carriers, as the brake pads are different thicknesses for solid or vented disks. its also possible that they are earlier calipers and carriers(not sure exactly what they look like), as vw changed to using VW I calipers in 1985. looking at pics of the engine bay, its got a mechanical head on the engine rather than the later hydraulic head, so that could indicate thats its got earlier brakes too....... I've just been out to measure the spacing in my mk2 fitted with solid disks and vw I calipers so the edge of the caliper is 110mm from the part of the hub that the wheel bore sits on, and it sticks out 12mm from the front of the face of the brake disk (I've got new brake pads on, this can be reduced to 6mm using VW II brake pads as the are the same shape, just thinner)
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Last Edit: Jan 29, 2012 16:17:42 GMT by optima21
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Jan 29, 2012 16:27:46 GMT
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I am on the earlier engine and the earlier non-servo brakes, if that helps? Not able to get into the garage to do the measuring and photographing today, sorry about that. However, my Dad's neighbour has a digital measuring device (I can't remember the name of it, brain is blank) that should help get accurate measurements and pictures of everything providing he's happy to loan it... which he should be, he's a generous and helpful kind of neighbour.
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Jan 29, 2012 16:32:30 GMT
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Had a brain wave. I remember we redid all the brakes before the MoT last year so I went back through the album to see if I could find pictures since I've photographed just about everything and... TADA! I'd forgotten just how nice and shiny they looked.
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Jan 29, 2012 16:36:15 GMT
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none of the mk2 polos had servos fitted in the uk. if you can change calipers/carriers and gain the clearance you need, then it would be cheaper than getting some spacers machined. the caliper and carriers on my car cost £20 plus postage last October.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jan 29, 2012 19:04:41 GMT
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none of the mk2 polos had servos fitted in the uk. if you can change calipers/carriers and gain the clearance you need, then it would be cheaper than getting some spacers machined. the caliper and carriers on my car cost £20 plus postage last October. My F plate Coupe S did Although many people didn't believe me, and it still seems to be the exception not the rule. Yeah, they should be about that from a scrap yard. A low spec mk3 golf should have solid discs with VWII calipers and the 'non-loop' carriers, and should be ripe in scrapies at the moment.
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Jan 29, 2012 23:47:19 GMT
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DangerousDave in the Motornutz club had a late Mk2 breadie (G reg, I think) with servo assist on the brakes too, so they do exist, but it's rare. Now I'm used to them, I don't really mind having non-servo brakes but I do plan an upgrade further down the line at some point.
Once I've been able to get the measurements sorted then we can find out if the VWII calipers will clear enough of the wheel to allow me to run without spacers. In which case I'd then need appropriate spigot rings and wobble bolts, yes?
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My F plate Coupe S did Although many people didn't believe me, and it still seems to be the exception not the rule. Bizarreo. Neither of my Coupe S's did but they were both a bit earlier. Not much space in there for a servo, no? Or was the master cylinder on the other side, Scirocco style?
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