mid mounted bike engines?

Further to what was said above,
Sequential gears - either rods linked to gearlever, or push-pull cables, or electric actuators - for F1 style /paddle shift

Reverse - can be done using a starter motor on a sprocket to drive train (not sure if it's great though)

Getting the power to the wheels, chain is often used - can convert any diff to chain drive, but it requires some fabrication, once the actual diff casing is removed can mount a sprocket to the CROWN wheel - which will spin the diff and give power to the wheels - only issue is fabricating a shell for the diff so it can stay lubricated.

Other option, as above, is to use a prop shaft, either from a shaft driven bike (honda st1100?) or get one made to link the bike drive and mount the bike engine sideways.

For someone with suitable abilities and using sencond hand gear can be done quite cheaply to an already RWD car, or can be done in a front-mount - FWD configuration in a FWD car - but this gets a bit more difficult due to lack of vertical space.

Just some of th einfo I've picked up over the last few months reading -I am no-way an expert, but was considering this for my fiat 127.

Duncan

Check out anything to do with Z-Cars. They are probably the most commercially based outfit involved in this sort of thing. Be aware that despite the compact nature of bike engines, combining them with a chain drive and diff all at one end of a small car like an IMP takes up a lot of room. In the case of Z-cars conversions of Minis, the whole A*se of the car gets cut out. This leads to BIVA. (see end)

In the pic below, they use a chain-driven diff, which you'd have to fork out for. A car diff can be used if you're clever, but as has been said, keeping oil in and dirt out is the trick with that one.



It CAN be done, but the transmission usually becomes complicated/expensive.

BIVA : if you "radically alter" a vehicle (in short : alter the suspension, modify the bodyshell by cutting any of it away, change too many major components from standard) you will have to have to put the car through a BIVA inspection. Never mind the small matter of what gets tested, the test costs IIRC £400. And 'well done' if you pass first time. a PITA to be avoided if at all possible IMO.

[update] Sorry if that came across as negative. What you're considering could be a LOT of fun, just be aware that if this is for the road, red-tape, though not insurmountable, will add to the task.
Have some inspiration to make up for it.

Curiosity got the better of me darrylwebb.

Price up a good engine with all the ancillaries to get it running - and be prepared to be shocked. Probably cheaper to buy a good (uncrashed) donor so you can recoup some of the outlay by selling the surplus.
Because of the diff / reverse problem I wonder if a lightweight FWD gearbox could be adapted instead - all gears except 4th/5th and reverse gutted ?

Paul H

Look at this:



Suzuki Whizzkid with Honda CBR1000 engine, it's crazy.
I know from motorbike engine'd kitcars, it's either on or off and makes driving it more than a handful and quite tiring.

honda blackbird+ cinq+cossie rear axel

BIVA test will only be needed if you cut the original chassis rails, don't need to cut them on an Imp, even with the engine mid-mounted. Best diff/axle to use is Sierra, keep it chain driven aswell, just need some shafts made up(not too expensive). My complete engine, box, loom, dash etc etc was £800, cheap for 160bhp standard! And sierra diff was £65. Going to cost £300 to get it all fitted in my Imp, then shafts are £200 pair. £1365 for 160bhp as apposed to £1350 for a 100bhp Imp engine = no brainer!! ;D

my 2p having built both single and twin bike engined cars , useless as road cars with poor gearing curse word fuel consumption and constant chain maintenance if mid mounted .
loads of good fwd packages that will mid mount with less hassle than a bike engine ,ive gone back to a car engine now and the only thing i miss is the noise but thats all .

180hp r1 in a 700kg steel bodied small car would need 10mph per 1000rpm to get the best performance from it which means 8000rpm at 80mph ,so at 60mph you want another gear which isnt there .

i put a tl1000 v twin in the back of my reliant a few years back and got the gearing to sit at 70mph at 6000rpm which was bearable , it only managed 15.5 1/4 mile which dropped to 13.8 with 10mph per 1000rpm .

lots of much better fwd packages out there for less than the price of a chain drive lsd diff for a bike engine

just mulling over ideas here gents, I am half tempted to front engine RWD a small car, what I don't have is a lot of width so I need to bring the engine upright, I am thinking of using a Hyabussa possibly with a turbo, ;D are aftermarket sumps available so I can rotate the engine around the output drive, I would assume I need a sump, a pickup, and a pump.