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Colour coded driveshafts? Yes, not content with being the fashion leaders with colour-coded brakepads, we're now forging the way for the Next Hot Thing™ of 2019 - colour coded driveshafts, you saw them here first: And a quick picture to show how well the combination of the Spiralox circlips and the counterbored CV stars work - there's no way in hell it's knocking those circlips off!
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Shock adjuster housings roughed out, everything seems to work okay, needed a little fine tuning for o-ring clearances: Anyway, back on the lathe for a debur, tweak the clearances and make it slightly less clunky looking: And the final article, I might shorten it slightly yet as I found some smaller fittings for the rear end: Next stop, some new o-rings, reassemble and put them back on the car. Doesn't sit very well with only one set of rear dampers and springs on
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Apr 25, 2019 22:48:22 GMT
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Went OTT and made some for the front dampers too - they're still dry at the moment anyway as they're getting rebuilt shorter - problem is now I need to re-shim/valve and tweak the adjust internals to work with the smaller shafts (otherwise they don't blow off early enough on the high speed compression, and don't generate enough pressure against the smaller shafts either). Need to print some clamps to piggyback them onto the front dampers too....you'd think we'd have learnt about altering one thing turning into 3 other jobs by now....
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I've been told that people who put close up photographs on the internet of their abnormally long, stiff shafts generally get quite lot of people looking at them. So here it is, all 50-odd inches: (Now, if we stopped messing around fixing competitors cars and got on with our own I might have more interesting posts to make...but Eddy's still finishing the clamps for the front dampers and I've got a couple of coil plugs to change, which are even more boring)
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It ain't dead
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Nov 18, 2021 14:20:40 GMT
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It's almost there, it's got shiny new shocks too:
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Jan 21, 2022 21:28:33 GMT
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Dyno day! Drives nice
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Moves, see.
I'm not a tease honest
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Seems like only yesterday it was running... The culprit: Anyway, while we were at it, had a new fuel rail to replace the OE one made up by Ed, plumbing tweaked and all installed , I finished off a new bit of coil pack wiring - noticed before the OE honda connectors had cracks in 'em, sealed them years back when the loom was made, but they've been on and off so many times since they've completely cracked through - one came off in my hand while checking it! Seems like a fairly common Honda issue fortunately so there's aftermarket replacement coil pack connectors easily available - and I made everything on the engine side of the loom in modular sections so it's easy to replace or modify bits (coils have a section, first set of injectors has another, second set another, one for cam/crank sensors, one for temp sensors, etc, etc) so I've make a new section up with new connectors. Did a few niggly bits, we cleaned and tweaked the springs/preload on the throttle body 'cause it was sticking slightly down low when cold occasionally, and I rebuilt the 'Magic Box 'o' Sparks*' fan controller so we can run fan speed control again and reduce the power draw from the alternator to help things out until we can get the bigger alt sorted out. That and you don't get deafened by fan noise every time the engine is running now: Now it's even more magic, look it's sparkly and colour changing and everything: So she's back up and running, new loom, new bearing, new fuel rail and plumbinb, exhaust leaks sealed. Just got a bigger clutch master cylinder coming as the bite point is right at the end of the pedal travel at the minute - it works fine but it needs lifting a bit - a consequence of us using the absolute smallest cylinder we thought we could get away with, as the old floor mounted clutch pedal and 2600lb Kennedy pressure plate was a nightmare, you were going over centre with your ankle when it released and it gave you a workout. The new setup is far smoother and far lighter than we expected so gonna trade 20% more pedal effort for shifting the bite point to a slightly more comfortable position, and I want to make some fine tuning to the mapping where vtec engages tommorow.
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Feb 22, 2022 12:48:41 GMT
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Bigger belt = more boost = better. Right?
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A little more wiring for some, rather larger injectors...IDX1050's, think we might have enough juice now? The top fell off for a check on valve clearances: And then a bit of manipulation to the map for the larger injectors and new dead times, etc, just to get it up and running again - fuelled on the safe side and not much timing to be safe so back to the dyno Friday - just keeping it out of boost and not pushing the rpms at all for the moment but look, it moves:
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Last Edit: Apr 3, 2022 11:56:01 GMT by phillipm
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So, had a small issue yesterday - the alternator suddenly decided to stop charging properly, it'd sit at 11.8v at idle and 13.7v if you revved the engine - then hold 12.1-12.2 after that. Which makes you think the regulator is shot right? Only downside, it's pretty much a brand new alternator, but it's been on the car so long it's out of warranty. You know what it's like here, if I can unbolt it I'll try fixing it, after a lot of swearing and hammering splitting the casing open I found the fault - two dry solder joints, great quality control there! Seems like the regulator was okay it'd just gone into a failsafe mode. So, a bit of desoldering, cleaning and resoldering later, and a clean and check of the slip rings and brushes (and some grease in the rear bearing which was completely dry so I don't have to beat the casing for 2 hours to get it apart next time) and it was back together and holding a rock solid 14.1-14.2v even at idle. Which is good considering it's underdriven to stop it going pop. Way more stable than it was before so I guess it had the fault from day one and eventually just cracked out. Windscreen is finished and nicely bonded in now, as is the GPS antenna and accelerometers for g-forces and inertial positioning (little black box on the roof) Took it for a run and it's so much quieter with the windscreen bonded in, who'd have thought?
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It's mapped and properly alive!
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I bet that is a lot of fun to drive.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
Member is Online
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Been watching a few YouTube videos of what I assume is the type of racing this is for. Looks like great fun.
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It definately is, much more fun in the car though, video's don't really get across the terrain well usually.
Next stop, racing at Pickering next weekend!
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
Member is Online
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Next stop, racing at Pickering next weekend! Just had a Google - is there anywhere that gives maps/locations to spectate. Wouldn't mind a ride up to watch but can't see where any of the routes are listed.
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Apr 10, 2022 21:12:49 GMT
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Ah there might be an issue there. Remember that faulty bearing on the clutch/crank nose side we fixed weeks ago?
It's put pressure on the thrust bearings and wiped one out - and unfortunately, marked the crank - found it today whilst checking why there was suddenly a lot of end float. No real way to save it unless I can find some thicker thrust washers but I can't see anyone stocking anything.
Rather depressed today!
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