1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP (higher axle stands)

I was actually thinking about that. I've got all the mullered studs removed so far. Would make a good art-piece if I welded them together or something

I have tried the acetone/ATF mix (way back at the start) and tbh I don't think it made a difference, as nothing is getting to the bottom anyway. I never usually use WD40 but just bought some recently, for another purpose, and am simply using it as it's there. Prior to this have used various dedicated penetrating oils. Only ones I've not tried are the USA ones (eg Kroil, Marvel, PB Blaster)

Will def be using OEM steel studs and looking after the coolant etc. I'm pretty sure they'll never be out again but will use anti-seize also

the patience shown in this thread is literally mind blowing, most people would have given up after a few weeks (myself included).

Worth googling "Duralac green" for when you get to fitting new studs. it's an anti seize goop used on boats. I use it on a lot of stuff, notably the long thin bolts on rover V8 timing covers. There is one bolt in particular that goes into the cooling jacket and these are notorious for seizing and snapping. Since using Duralac I have never had an issue.

thanks homersimpson.

I guess you've just got to keep at things no matter how futile it seems.

small detail but, that fancy pen in last pic....

present from my Mum; lost it after writing a receipt, for customer, in my car the other week; messaged customer to see if in her house (unlikely); no reply; last week - phone ringing off the hook as she'd pulled radiator off wall; reluctantly go back the customer's house to hang rad on wall; my pen is under rad

what am I on about? well if you'd said to me last week I'd get my pen back and get the studs out I'd have confidently bet £1000 that you'd be wrong lol

Just a thought, but could it be worth cutting down the remaining studs, prior to welding on the nuts, thus allowing more of the welding heat to reach the shrouded section/threads, and less chance of the stud breaking in the middle section?

The other point is that stainless studs will expand more with heat, so reduce the clamping force on the head gasket when hot. Right call to go with OE studs.

But really great to see you making progress on this. Keep up the good work!

Well. I'm amazed to say that's the last one out

Last night I went to sleep planning my lines of attack when it 'definitely snapped flush with the block'. There was a lot of thought on the return of the hot-water-Alum-immersion-heater-water-tank idea but my last plan before nodding off was drilling most of it out (freehand) then filling the hole with Nitric Acid to eat it away.

Anyway I set off for the barn this afternoon, did another bundle of wood and got a bit curry and a cuppa off the Gaffer's missus and chatted to her and the daughter.

It would have been ideal if I'd got the box running before all that but remember I still had to weld a nut on and didn't do that before the wood (as I was under the understanding the daughter was leaving with the log-splitter) so there was no point getting the box hot.

I eventually got into the barn and remembered there are no more nuts so I ground the welded part off a used one and punched the thin middle bit out then welded it on. It didn't go well. As I couldn't get weld under it I tried to beef the weld up on the sides and then, obv', the socket won't go on it so it was out with the grinder to try and re-shape it. I couldn't get to some of the weld and tried to hammer the socket on which simpy took the nut down the shaft and I was just left with a mess. As a last-ditch effort (to convince myself I tried) I ground the weld off the last used nut and welded that on top of the mess.

I then spent about 2 or 3 hours tidying up and looking for the hinge-cutter and brake-bleed thingy while the box warmed up - slowly. It didn't seem to be getting to the desired 150C and I hadn't found those things (where the fk are they!?) and it was going to snap anyway so it all seemed a waste of time and I was going to miss dinner with my Mum and sister's family.

But I continued the search for those things and about half hour later could smell the box was getting hot. Got about 150C on the probe at side of box so was straight on it and couldn't believe the probe (now on block) was showing a shade under 150C.

Got the bar on the nut and it moved straight away. "damn that's the weld broke, oh well can call it a day" but it felt ok. Got another couple of turns on it but still wasn't sure what was going on. Set the camera up for a video and it kept turning.

Soon after it was making the loud clicking/jerking sound that had been a feature of all the earlier ones which meant the block must've been cooling down to similar temp to those times. Stuck the probe back on and yes it was about 130C.

I was thinking if it jams just leave it and warm it again tomorrow but tried a last time and soon after it was loose enough to spin out with the T-bar.

So I'm saying the secret is definitely heat the block. looks like 150C is about spot-on.

So what's next? Well am going to be doing some serious cleaning then warm the block one last time to drop all the liners back in and after that it should just be some spanner-work



box after a couple of hours tidying and searching for stuff



block whilst I got tooled-up



not pretty but never thought I'd see this on my dining table



first nut had little grip on the stud



couldn't get to this bit with grinder and hammering socket on just broke nut #1 from the stud



no access to back to weld nut #2 to stack but got plenty on front


NB looking at this last short stud that came out they can't be 3" deep in the block as this thing is less than 3" long and there was something above the surface. I think they are a shade over 2" into the casting which means there must be a void underneath. This would mb be useful if someone was to try and drill them out as the stud wouldn't be sitting right at the bottom of the hole

Well funny you should ask hernerover as that's what's now on my mind.

I'd love to take it somewhere and get it back all clean but not sure if there's anywhere near me and what it would cost so will prob just do it myself. The heat applied recently has turned a lot of it to dust so, despite the 7 year limbo, it was probably a good thing the engine seized as I'd have been running it full of curse word.

I'm not going to be wasting time getting a pristine look on the outside but will get the inside clean as a whistle




plenty cleaning to do

I'd be getting it dipped and cleaned even if it means waiting till you can drive somewhere to drop it off or paying for it to be couriered.

My A+ block came back like brand new when I had it done at Bromsgrove.