foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Hi jpsmit. I like the thinking chair idea : )
The propshaft does spin freely. I'm no expert on auto boxes but I'm guessing that means there's no transmission problem.
My theory is that when I stripped all the ancilliaries off about a year ago and cleaned the engine down with Gunk I have taken away the insulating properties of the thick oil that was all over the block and the damp conditions in the barn over the winter then did the damage.
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Last Edit: Jul 22, 2013 1:12:35 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Sept 10, 2013 8:26:27 GMT
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How's it going Foxy...?!
I do hope that your mojo hasn't been completely killed and that you will crack on with this fabulous project...!!!
Is a seized engine always seized?! What I mean is are they always going to be beyond rescue or is there something (I do not know whatof course!!!) that can be done to get them all freed up again?!
Come on Foxy, we're all rooting for you sir...
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Sept 10, 2013 14:27:22 GMT
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Can you get the sump off?
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Sept 10, 2013 21:28:02 GMT
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Hi guys. My mojo is elsewhere just now (small motorcycles) but I'm still popping into RR every so often. I got my litre of Plus Gas but haven't yet put it down the bores. As for the sump.... I've not checked the manuals - as it never crossed my mind to remove it - but if I did get it off what would I do next?
Incidentally. After all that humming & haw-ing over the USA front silencer and repairing the old one. Guess what popped up on Ebay in UK the other day for £20? Yes, that very part.
I'm also constantly searching for a press to finalise the job on the radius-arm bushes but they're always in England. There was one near me and I didn't bid high enough but will get one eventually.
Anyway. Am gonna finish the little moped I've been working on and a couple of the other bikes I have then I'll return to the VDP. I won't be getting rid of it anyway.
Having said that I had a fever last week and in the nightly turmoil all I could think of was what would become of all my projects if I was gonna die: Jag to XJ Restorations, SS50 to a guy called Scott in Dundee, Yamahas? Polo? Hillman Imp...bury me in it.
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Last Edit: Sept 10, 2013 21:30:21 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Sept 10, 2013 22:05:52 GMT
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It was just a thought that if it was piston rings seized in the bores (last engine i had an issue with was that) you could give the rod bolts a light tap to shock the rings free
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Sept 11, 2013 11:30:11 GMT
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Got to be worth a try BC.
Looked at the manual last night and the sump looks easy enough to take off but only covers part of the bottom of the area. It than mentions a 'sandwich plate' which bolts around the full engine bottom. Tells you to take front suspension etc off to get this out. I'm guessing the sandwich plate is effectively the sump in this case and the sump is just the deep bit to carry the oil
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2013 11:30:34 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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actionslaxx
Part of things
a message to you rudy
Posts: 74
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Sept 12, 2013 13:45:27 GMT
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When you consider how many pistons you are dealing with it would'nt take much friction in each bore times 12 to cause the problem, I would be peering down the plug holes [akward I know] to see how things look and maybe going with bastardchild on the light piston bumping theme, I would only agree with pouring liquids down there if I was confident of a result or you could be adding to the gumming. To me gumming is the key word here.
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Sept 12, 2013 19:43:52 GMT
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How much effort is it to get the 'box off in-situ? I built an Mi16 205 for a guy ages back and the engine he supplied was siezed solid from sitting outside for a couple of years; I ended up bolting a big length of angle to the flywheel to crack it free - it didn't half let go with a crack, but it hadn't been damaged by its ordeal and was an absolute gem when I fired it up! I realise this is a pain in the  to do with it all still in the car, but it would save you stripping the motor itself. Attaching a lever to the flywheel would allow you to apply way more force than going in at the pulley bolt, as you have been doing. Joe |
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Sept 13, 2013 2:43:19 GMT
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Interesting idea joe76. I've got a really big hoist so maybe next year I'll haul it all out and give that a try.
I would actually enjoy it I reckon but just now I don't want to take up more room in the barn. Gonna finish my little SS50 and a couple of the other bikes then move back to the Jag.
As always tho. Really appreciate the input. Thanks.
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2013 2:43:47 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Well, dare I ask...?!
I do hope there is life in this old brute yet...!!!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Onne
Part of things
Posts: 822
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Hope so, this is a good one!
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1990 Mercedes W126 300SE
1997 Mercedes W140 S320L
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like you said in a previous post the v12 with carbs is an early engine it's called a pre HE
after the carbs on the series 1 the series 2 with the same engine got the injection
the series 3 lateron got the HE ( high efficiency ) this is a difrent engine with totaly difrent heads
for better fuel consumption
you can take a pre he and bolt your carbs onto them
for everyone else i can only say that taking the heads of a v12 , it's a hell of a lot of work
i have done several and i can say that if you take the heads of you cant turn the crankshaft anymore as the engine has loose liners
and when you turn the crank without the heads on you ll push the liners out of the block
next to that is the case of getting the heads off
i have had to grind the heads of at least 2 engines ( and buy new heads ) as the studs where rusted sollid into the heads because of the bolts being in the coolant channels in the head and block
so yes an amazing piece of engineering the v12 is but when it breaks it can be costly
regards
mitch
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Hi guys. Good to see some input here and funnily enough, last night, I was talking about the car at length to a guy at a night out. He was asking the questions from a purely fascination point but as we all know the reality of rebuilding a car is a lot harder than talking about it with a few beers in you.
Anyway. The plan is this summer when I have got one or two of my little motorbike project finished I'm going to pull the engine out and try turning it from the flywheel end with the box separated.
I never did try the Plus Gas thinking that it couldn't be that easy but having used it on other things I must admit it is pretty effective at loosening parts so maybe I should have a go.
I still have a funny feeling that there might be some other explanation for it not turning but then I curse myself for washing down/degreasing the block etc and removing all that think gunk which must've insulated it all those years.
In some ways I'm going backwards in life. My daily transport is now a Raleigh Bomber! Things like that are so easy to work on. You can rebuild them in a night really.
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Mar 10, 2014 12:34:01 GMT
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Bring on the Double Six...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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What a fantastic restoration thread.
I have one of these cars myself, a 1976 model, which I have been restoring since summer 2010. I bought it as a non runner which hadn't been on the road since c. 1993 and which had a lot of lower bodywork rot.
I have now completed all the bodywork welding bar the rear right hand side door bottom, have overhauled the brakes and had it running. I'm close to the stage of getting it resprayed. There have been problems along the way but it is getting there. I wish I'd kept a photographic record like this!
Best wishes with the rest of the work; it looks as though you're nearly there. These are now very rare cars, there being only forty or so known Series 2s known to have survived in the UK. They are magnificent cars, which when new cost as much to buy as a house.
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What a fantastic restoration thread.
I have one of these cars myself, a 1976 model, which I have been restoring since summer 2010. I bought it as a non runner which hadn't been on the road since c. 1993 and which had a lot of lower bodywork rot.
I have now completed all the bodywork welding bar the rear right hand side door bottom, have overhauled the brakes and had it running. I'm close to the stage of getting it resprayed. There have been problems along the way but it is getting there. I wish I'd kept a photographic record like this!
Best wishes with the rest of the work; it looks as though you're nearly there. These are now very rare cars, there being only forty or so known Series 2s known to have survived in the UK. They are magnificent cars, which when new cost as much to buy as a house.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Hi carlover. I hope one day I'll be able to say I 'had it running'. Must be an amazing feeling. I've found myself returning to the old VDP over the last few nights actually.
I'm at the closing stages of rebuilding the two little motorbikes I turned to when the engine seizure was found and have also finished repairing the concrete on the barn floor where the VDP used to sit and today I've been up on the roof repairing the missing and damaged slates which dripped all that water onto the RHS of the car over the years.
I've been giving it a clean and have put the rear window back in even tho the re-trimmed headlining etc is still in my spare room. The repaired bonnet is bolted back on too.
I doused the bores with PlusGas a few nights ago and will continue to tug on the breaker bar in the hope that it all moves again. Don't think that will happen tho so in 6 months time or so (once I've got a car out of the barn) I'll be dropping the front subframe and lifting the engine.
Any pics of your machine?
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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My daily transport is now a Raleigh Bomber! Things like that are so easy to work on. You can rebuild them in a night really. I was given a brand new Raleigh Bomber 5-speed for Christmas back in 1984. Superb bike! Mine was used for morning and evening paper-rounds, for which it excelled, and also occasional off-road thrashes through woods and along towpaths, plus commuting to and from the station to attend college. When the first mountainbikes came out, I quickly upgraded the Bomber to 15-speeds, using a triple chainset and front gear mech, plus a set of alloy wheels which made it that much more useable off-road. I eventually traded it in and went over to a succession of mountainbikes, but have fond memories of the good old Bomber. |
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Hi foxy, getting it running was one of the first things I did after acquiring it, to see what the engine was like. It was quite a task as the fuel left in both tanks has turned back into a thick tar like substance and the injectors were all blocked with it.
I managed to clean out both tanks using cellulose thinners and pressure washing them, and had the injectors cleaned by a chap in the North East. Although it was free I put Redex into every cylinder to ungum the rings and left it for a week.
When it started, there were clouds of red, black, blue and white smoke and gradually it came back to life and stopped smoking. The oil pressure light came on which was worrying, but I checked the pressure with a capillary gauge I have and it was about 70 psi which is fine. I then swapped the pressure switch for a spare I had and the problem was cured. It runs pretty much silently, but only runs on 11 cylinders and I am going to change the leads, coil etc and possibly the distributor cap when I've finished what I'm doing now.
Seeing it run was a real boost and encouraged me to get on with it.
I have a couple of pictures of it when I first got it but don't know how to upload them onto here.
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