foxy99
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Posts: 1,457
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Jan 21, 2013 20:44:00 GMT
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Thanks grifterkid. Despite being tantalisingly close and there being no logical reason the car won't run I still can't believe I might actually drive it out the yard one day.
I'm dreaming about it but it seems impossible just now....
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Jan 21, 2013 21:15:26 GMT
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I look forward to seeing it smoking round the Whirlies!
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*Sent from one of my four iPads*
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Lol
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2013 20:53:15 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Last Edit: Jan 28, 2013 4:01:05 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
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Last Edit: Feb 7, 2013 4:05:27 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Bit of a weird one this and might seem like overkill but there is method in the madness.... As shown a while ago I removed the rear screen to examine/repair a little rust on the bottom LHS channel. The whole channel is in remarkably good condition but there is one bit which has rust on it but no apparent hole. I could have painted it over, wire brushed it or Kurust-ed but I feel that blasting (or dipping) is the only real way to get rid of rust. To do the bit would only take a few minutes but the car would end up full of media no matter how much cardboard or stuff I packed round it so I figured sealing in plywood or something might be an option then turned to some large sheets of 0.8mm steel I have. Without much trouble it was cut to shape using the screen with the rubber on as a template then sealing it in with some Wurth Bond&Seal that was in the barn when I took up residence. Should get it blasted soon then I can get the screen back in a fit the re-trimmed headlining pieces a little corrosion on the rear pillar. wouldn't take long to blast off but car would end up full of media so.... .....make a temporary window out of 0.8mm steel sealed in with mastic top edge was a bit fiddly but all done and should keep the grit out car
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Last Edit: Feb 8, 2013 3:06:25 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Well I can't say I've ever seen anyone use that approach before. Reasoning is sound though I can't help thinking there must be an easier way, though what that is I couldn't say.
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richrolls
Part of things
Posts: 318
Club RR Member Number: 38
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foxy99
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Hi guys. I suppose I could've bought one of them (didn't think of it tbh) but I just spent £20 on a new nozzle for my own set up and have a few bits to do under the car before I put the IRS back in and I've had good results before with my blast pot so will press on with it.
The metal screen only took me a few hours to knock together and I had the steel anyway so I'm quite happy with that approach even tho it's a bit unconventional.
On the subject of the blast pot. It can drive you almost crazy when it won't blast and you can find no reason for it. When it's working it's great.
The last time I used it was one of the frustrating times: The guy I rent the barn off asked me to replace some parts on his trailer so I got the gear out to clean up all the corroded nuts thinking I'd be done in an hour and I spent more than that disassembling the kit to find non-existent blockages. The thing just kept blocking up.
I was using a newly purchased bag of J-Blast Supafine which worked for me before but this time was different. I suspect the media was slightly bigger despite being the same grade on the bag so, rather than buy another bag in the hope that I'd get 'small stuff', I bought a bigger nozzle. It's 3.5mm instead of 3mm so hopefully it will work.
If it doesn't I'll need to order another product. I've used 'olivine' before which is more like sand and aluminium oxide which is aggressive and expensive.
Gonna give the J-Blast one last try.
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Last Edit: Feb 8, 2013 21:09:42 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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I went to the barn tonight not really knowing what job(s) to tackle and ended up doing a job I thought I definitely wouldn't be doing. I hate the thought of painting when it's damp despite having my new heat lamp and it was a cold rainy night however the barn was dry surprisingly and I've had a couple of parts sitting in the Deox-C which really needed to come out and get sealed so I cracked open my 'liquid gold' (imo) Glasurit primer. The headlining trimming is also being held up by the fact the metal pieces haven't been re-furbed yet. Anyway the paint seems really good and was dry before I headed home. I mixed up more than I needed and ended up spraying the repaired body areas (rear arches/valance) just to keep dampness off but was pleasantly surprised to find that they look almost ready for finish coats! From past experience I know how smooth filler can look until paint goes on and it then shows up every sanding scratch but this stuff must be quite thick as everything looked great and I've been using 80 grit paper. under-bonnet braces were a bit rusty/scruffy but Deox-C had them pickled clean I should've removed paint before dipping but no harm done really Glasurit epoxy primer. very different from the Rustbusters black epoxy mastic looks almost white to me once it is applied. pieces in middle are B post trims back valance given a couple of coats to use up surplus paint in gun looks like it might be ready for paint ahead of schedule
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2013 4:29:45 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Top stuff. I don't know about you, but I find getting paint on things usually makes me feel a lot better about them, it's like you're on the home stretch.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Yeah, I agree. You spend all that time cutting out/blasting rust then all the fabrication and welding always fearing it will come back...some paint goes on and suddenly the world is a better place again. There are a lot of discussions about what paint is best and I've came to the conclusion that (unless you are in the re-finishing game and using different products daily over a period of decades) there is no way you will be able to test the infinite combinations of etch primers/epoxy primers/filler primers/basecoats/topcoats/clearcoats to say 'this is the ultimate system'. From what I've read Epoxy Primers are the ultimate (paint based) rust preventative solution so I'm settling on this. I'm in my forties now with one car left to do and I'm gonna stick with this.....whether it works or not lol
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Back in entry #223 (Jan 23rd) I was going on about the small radius-arm bushes being the wrong size. Well, I got another bush which seemed to be a pukka Jaguar one (seller only had one unfortunately). It was around £17 all in which was dearer than the pair of ill-fitting ones put together. I measured it with a micrometer and compared the measurments several times to the other ones and it is smaller but not as small as the ones that came out The ones that came out are now a bit mangled so I don't think I can say the measurements on those are accurate but the 'new' one has went in ....well almost . It's a very tight fit and there is still roughly 1 cm to push home. I have been using a very large vice with a large pole for leverage. Surely they shouldn't be so tight. The other problem is that the centre sleeve is longer than the outer so it butts up against the vice jaws before the outer sleeve is fully home. I ended up drilling out a relief in the wooden packing block to accommodate the centre sleeve and this helped but we're not home yet. Now that I'm satisfied the ones supplied were too wide I have contacted the Ebay seller to say so. I know the seller sold them in good faith and they weren't expensive so not worth making a fuss but I often find if you are up front and fair about these things a resolution can be found. So I'll maybe get some feedback or a refund. newly purchased bush 46.65+mmChristmas present bush 46.86+mmoriginal bush 46.23mmpushing home with thick metal plate on one end and wooden block on other sideinner sleeve reaches wooden block quite a bit before outer sleeve in fully home..........so hole drilled out with wood brace to accommodate it and recommence pushingNB. The micrometer is a 25-50mm one so you add 25mm to the reading on the scale. It's a bit confusing So, to summarise, they are all greater than 46mm but less than 47mm and a mm difference is never gonna work. The ones that won't consider going in are are approx 0.2mm wider than one that is going in - with a struggle - but the original is approx 0.4mm smaller than that. I'd be happier if they were all the same size. Has got me wondering what the tolerances on these things are...... I'm talking in metric here because the micrometer is metric but the car is Imperial so makes more sense to talk in that language and the variance from smallest to largest is approx .025" In fractions the range is about 1 13/16" to 1 27/32". You'd assume the bush would be some sort of recognised fractional size like 1 7/8" which would be about right but it could be more specific than that. Who knows but I'll get there eventually
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Last Edit: Feb 11, 2013 3:33:19 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Just a quick thought have you tried either freezing the bushes or heating the arm. Or a mix of both. I have found this helps if its a very tight interference fit.
The other thing i have found to help is to use a scoket or tube to push on the outer part of the bush.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Feb 11, 2013 11:05:33 GMT
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Hi tony21tq. Someone else suggested freezing the bush but by the time I got it from home to garage it would have heated up again lol. Having said that it has been below zero many nights at the barn recently.
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Last Edit: Feb 11, 2013 11:06:11 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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I've touched on this before and had a separate thread running on something I've become obsessed with: the fittings on the metal fuel pipes that run under the car.... I'm determined to find out what they are and source replacement fittings - somewhere!. Was going to wait until I sussed it all out before making this post but I can't find my thread gauge and one of the threads doesn't fit anything on my thread files so I've got a dead end there just now. Anyway, in the meantime I have made up new return pipes in 5/16" copper. I did them by hand a while ago and they are pretty good but I wish I'd bought the cheap pipe bending tool I now have earlier as it does make great kink free bends. Not a huge issue on thin brake pipes or even the 5/16" return pipes that this car has but I don't think you could make good bends by hand on anything thicker. The fuel feed pipes on the VDP are 3/8" so before I had the tool I was thinking of re-furbishing the original (steel) rear section but now that I have got the the tool I reckon I'll make a copper one. The long front section of the feed pipe is fine so I'm not going to disturb that. They are almost 'good to go' apart from fact I will need to learn to silver-solder to put the original fitting onto the long return pipe. I could use other fitting but still need to practise silver soldering. There's a good video on YouTube showing how its done but you need to pickle the work in acid afterwards or something and I'm not really wanting to learn a new hobby at this stage. over-axle 5/16" fuel return pipes. original steel pipe below copper replicaunder-floor 5/16" fuel return pipes. original and replica. long pipe runs from engine to rear axlefront part of long pipesrear end of long pipes which joins in front of IRS. male threaded fitting has been de-soldered from the pipethis is the rear end of the rear pipe which enters the boot. done by hand and a little flat in placesa couple of seconds work on scrap piece with new tool shows much better curvesthis bit would've came out better with the toolOn a different note. I'm quite pleased with the work done tonight. I got the blast pot up and running and had very little trouble with it. Possibly the new wider nozzle has helped. The bits round the windscreen were done in a few minutes and I did the front face of the boot tub (behind the IRS where the fuel pipes exit/enter) and mixed up some epoxy mastic to seal the clean metal. I forgot my camera though so no pictures. No barn tomorrow as having a night off to watch Glasgow Celtic take on Juventus in the Champions League
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Last Edit: Feb 12, 2013 3:42:23 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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When I bought this car I never envisaged I'd be sandblasting the hidden bits behind the IRS. I didn't even envisage having the IRS off. Whilst I was doing the very first repairs, to the driver's-side sill/radius arm box-section, I saw lots of pipes and mechanicals there that I hoped I would never have to disturb. Now that I am in the closing stages of the project and doing just that I feel like I should have took the IRS off at the start. In fact if I was to rebuild another XJ that's the first thing I would do. It gives you much more room to work in and you could refurb the whole unit gradually as a side project while doing the main job - the body. Anyway. Back to the subject of this post. I've been blasting all the very light rust off areas that don't actually need welding and coating them in Rustbusters Epoxy Mastic 121. A couple more nights should have it done. The bits on the rear screen channel are done too. driver's side rear pilar blasted and epoxiedsame with passenger side channeland forward face of boot-floor/spare wheel wellsome blasting done on passenger side wheel tuband chassis leg
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2013 2:10:32 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Onne
Part of things
Posts: 822
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You are doing a grand job!
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1990 Mercedes W126 300SE 1997 Mercedes W140 S320L
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Feb 16, 2013 18:28:51 GMT
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Thanks onne. After successful nights on Tuesday/Wednesday and a Valentines day break on Thursday to go to cinema with my gf I returned last night (well 1.30am today, to be accurate) full of mojo and despite staying to 5.30am got very little done. I was trying to clean up the last few areas on the 'chassis' and do the headlining rails (which are too big to dip in my DeoxC tub) but the sandblast pot was back to its old way jamming up and running out of puff too soon. It rips my knitting Will get back on it again Monday tho
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Last Edit: Feb 16, 2013 18:29:23 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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