bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Now that my 1300FWD is my only car and is finally solid and running right I'm thinking of some modifications to improve reliability and usability. Obviously the cheaper the better. This is what I'm thinking at the moment. electronic ignition not sure whether to go optical, hall effect or go the whole hog and fit coil packs and a pickup wheel on the crank pulley. Also thinking regards to fuelling I think my carb is quite worn as there is always a drop of oil on the mixture screw and the dash pot empties in record time. So I'm looking to the possibility of twin SUs of a dolly 1300 or making a custom manifold and going for injection. I'm going to fit a rev counter but losing the points will make this harder. Possibly a tubular stainless exhaust manifold and custom stainless exhaust with a modern silencer. The big one I really want to make the car have a bit longer legs and can think of 3 ways of doing it. 1.) Get another gearbox from someone strip it down and fit new internals possibly even 5 speed or at the very least a taller final drive ratio. This I think will be a rather expensive option so I may well have to look elsewhere 2.) Assuming that a 1500FWD has a stronger box and taller gear ratios I might try and adapt a 1500 box to fit the car. 3.) Overdrive but where the "!"& would I put one in this drivetrain. I suppose a custom flywheel with an overdrive intergrated might work.  Central locking I think maplins do a kit that could be fitted with some creativity and some extra security this bit is going to be a bit traveller mod. I have a spare Ignition switch which is so worn the key can be withdrawn with it in any possition. The plan is to mount this inside the glove box and route the power supply to the coil through it. In theory the car will need to keys to start and one will be hidden one diy imobiliser. Id appreciate your thoughts and any other ideas to make the car a better cruiser and a more reliable daily obviously the easier and cheaper the modification the better. Thanks Paul |
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Definitely agree on the electronic ignition nd I'd consider going for a later SU like and HIF off a later Mini or Metro. If you get an electronic rev counter it will run of the altenator.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Yay ive already converted it to alternator.
Oh the other thing I forgot I have a set of H4 Halogen headlamps on the way to replace the standard sealed candles
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Those clever chaps at Triumph spent a long time working out what the best diff ratio was to balance all driving types. Putting a taller one in will probably just make it a ball ache to drive on hills or when laden or so on.
If its noisy at speed look at making sure its as soundproofed as possible. All the places where wires or cables come through the bulkhead check the grommits are sound (or even there) and consider mastic even to stop wind noise here. Check your windlace and door seals are all good.
Consider a quality sound deadener like Dynamat Extreme. It won't add too much weight but will quieten the car.
a simple electronic disty conversion from a reputable source is all you need, decent plugs and quality HT leads.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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The reason for wanting to drop the revs abit is because in standard form 70mph equals 4000rpm which really is a hell of a lot. The car has bucket loads of torque and will happily pull away in third and pulls from 10mph in top gear  More than once I have been driving along in top gear and tried to change up only to find I was already in top  Noise levels aren't really the problem the wallet is. The car does 35 to 40mpg when driven at 45 to 50mph which is about all you can manage on my local roads. But get it on the motorway and thats down into the high teens early twenties cause shes revving so hard |
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2011 17:27:17 GMT by bl1300
Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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electronic ignition not sure whether to go optical, hall effect or go the whole hog and fit coil packs and a pickup wheel on the crank pulley. * I've used Aldon "points replacement" sets on Lucas 25D distributors with good results (neat as everything fits under the distributor cap ), the Hillman has some other setup with an extra "box of tricks" on the inner wing. There may be newer options since I was last looking. Any has to be an improvement for you ;D The big one I really want to make the car have a bit longer legs and can think of 3 ways of doing it. * Number 4 (depending on clearance) = fit bigger wheels and / or hi-profile tyres If it's got 13, try a set of 14's as a quick "suck-it-and-see" fix Central locking... *Try your local scrappers, most moderns now have central locking, I got a full set from a 205 a while ago, just need the solenoid from each door (+boot), cut the connectors off the car, and an armful for wiring Id appreciate your thoughts and any other ideas to make the car a better cruiser and a more reliable daily obviously the easier and cheaper the modification the better. * I like your thinking ;D |
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mikeymk
Part of things
'85 Polo Coupe S 1.6 16v
Posts: 931
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Bike carbs are usually fitted, and tuned, for performance. I didn't make that mistake, i found they can be very efficient too.
They're like SU's, only far superior, they're self regulating so they always enjoy high air speed - even if your foot is down at low revs. And you don't need to use four of them, even though that's by far the best option. For appearance's sake you could use two large ones, perhaps even dressed with SU tops to make them look like them.
They increase torque too, so you'll need that longer ratio gearbox even more!
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djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Definitely agree on the electronic ignition nd I'd consider going for a later SU like and HIF off a later Mini or Metro. If you get an electronic rev counter it will run of the altenator. The rev counter has nothing to do with the method of charging the battery! It's wired to the coil and works by measuring the number of pulses that gives out as each spark plug is fired. There are some really cheap leccy ignition kits on eBay that I had great results with for about 20 quid posted, you will need to know what distributor you have (Lucas 25D or 45D I would wager?) which you will find written on the body of it somewhere. Agree with Alistair, you need to replace the rest of the ignition consumables at the same time with top quality bits to have the best effect: I swear by 8pm thick silicone HT leads of almost any brand name! Why not rebuild the carb you have? Otherwise you will be messing around with jetting.... |
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Ive got a Lucas 25D.
The standard carb is a zenith stromberg CD150. The reason for thinking SUs is that the 1300TC used SUs along with a spitfire cam and manifold and had an extra 15bhp over the standard car
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Fair enough, however from my understanding of such things a single Stromberg or SU will flow just as well as twins on a standard or lightly tuned engine (Google this, I know David Vizard came to this conclusion from testing with a flow bench), hence I believe it will be the cam and any other Spitfire spec parts that differ from what you have (eg higher compression head?) that will be producing the extra power, so unless you find conclusive evidence to the contrary I'd be wary of the twin carb upgrade myself.
Perhaps talk to engine builders with experience on this engine before you proceed with carb swaps? BTW this months Practical Classics recommends fitting an oil cooler to this engine, I don't think thats a bad idea at all.
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Last Edit: Nov 7, 2011 9:34:26 GMT by djefk
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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I still fail to see why points based ignition systems prevent a car from being reliable/useable. Maybe that's just me.
An alternative carb set up may be just as worn if you buy second hand. You could get a single 1 1/2" SU on a manifold to bolt straight on to your engine from a 1500 and this would be less complicated (and less subject to being well set up) than a pair from a Spitfire or TC. It might be best just to re-build yours though.
A custom manifold and injection would not be cheap by any stretch of the imgaination, would require rolling road time (ideally) to set up properly and would then be sensitive to any future change in engine spec.
I have no idea if longer legs can be provided in a FWD box. Its only the final drive that would give you this anyway, as all boxes tend to have a 1:1 top (4th) gear. Don't know if the 1500's had a different diff ratio? AK, from my experience, all this old English porridge was under geared when new and is more than happy to pull a slightly taller diff these days. Maybe if you lived in the Alps it might not be so suitable...
A central locking kit will only give you extra security if you forget to lock your doors at the moment, unless you introduce new locks/catches. A separate switched circuit on the ignition would provide a smidgen of protection from joyriders who know nothing about cars, as would taking the rotor arm out when you park.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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dgo
Part of things
Posts: 41
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Central locking is because I'm a nitwit and keep forgetting to lock the back doors.
1500 gearbox has a slightly higher final drive ratio but this I have discovered is countered by having lower gears in the box itself. I'm now wondering if mating a 1500FWD final drive into the 1300 box would give me the longer legs I desire.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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My mini is an early 90s carb and is the most reliable I've ever known, has the carb and ignition set up from an a-series metro as standard. (no points and an ignition amplifier)
I'd have that over the injection system my cooper has, it's just as reliable and more economical!
I'm guessing you have a mini gearbox aswell, have a look in the mini scene for a motorway friendly final drive, it's a popular mod. Try GuessWorks online
Ryan ;D
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Last Edit: Nov 7, 2011 18:33:49 GMT by Ryannn
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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No mate its not a mini gearbox these boxes are unique to the FWD triumphs. As you can see from the diagram the box and engine use different oil also the trummy unit mounts longitudanly with equal length drive shafts. It is a very unusual layout for a FWD car.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Agh right, couldn't make out the diagram! lol
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megzy
Part of things
Posts: 364
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i think your trying to get modern performance out of old technology. your car was built in the time when motorway speeds where 50-60, where your car is happy to sit, not 70 hence the bad fuel economy. you would be alot better to save your money and a little time and go slower. Even if i drive nicely my car only just hits mid 20s  |
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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4k at 70 isn't that bad. My MX-5, Scirocco, Golf and Polo all sat at around that, and with a sensible exhaust they were all 100% bearable and comfy. It's definitely possible to make a car happy on the motorway with that sort of gearing, it probably would help economy a bit dropping the revs, but the Polo and Golf would both get 45-50mpg from their carb'd 1.3l engines on a 70mph motorway run, so there's definitely room for improvement in your FWD without needing to change the box. I say this mostly because many other things would be a lot easier than trying to make custom gearbox parts. Although if the 1500 diff will fit that sounds like an ideal solution (or maybe your 4th would fit the 1500 box?). With regards to fitting a rev counter it shouldn't be effected by most ignition set-ups, a rev-counter just works off 2 pulses per revolution, it will get this from any normal distributor set-up, regardless of whether it's electronic or not, as well as from a twin coil wasted spark set-up. For the central locking, I fitted a 'RightClick' aftermarket remote central locking kit to my Scirocco and can't really say anything against it other than that the instructions were a comedy translation. They do a 4 door central locking kit for £17.95, or a [url=http://www.rclick.co.uk/index.php?cPath=53[/url]4 door remote central locking kit for £36.95 with a choice of keys, including some decent OEM copy's with key-blanks built into them so you don't end up with a giant bunch of keys. You can add a boot lock to it too with an extra servo. I'm probably going to get a kit for my Passat from there sooner or later. (edited to add the links) PS, that gearbox set-up looks similar to pre-9000 Saabs, might be another route to explore, but even best case scenario would involve a lot of fabrication to get the box to fit. (unless triumph borrowed the box from a saab in the first place, but that seems very unlikely, and I'd expect you to already have heard if they had.) |
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Last Edit: Nov 7, 2011 22:51:59 GMT by RobinJI
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4k at 70 isn't that bad. My MX-5, Scirocco, Golf and Polo all sat at around that, and with a sensible exhaust they were all 100% bearable and comfy. It's definitely possible to make a car happy on the motorway with that sort of gearing, it probably would help economy a bit dropping the revs, but the Polo and Golf would both get 45-50mpg from their carb'd 1.3l engines on a 70mph motorway run, so there's definitely room for improvement in your FWD without needing to change the box. I say this mostly because many other things would be a lot easier than trying to make custom gearbox parts. Although if the 1500 diff will fit that sounds like an ideal solution (or maybe your 4th would fit the 1500 box?). With regards to fitting a rev counter it shouldn't be effected by most ignition set-ups, a rev-counter just works off 2 pulses per revolution, it will get this from any normal distributor set-up, regardless of whether it's electronic or not, as well as from a twin coil wasted spark set-up. For the central locking, I fitted a 'RightClick' aftermarket remote central locking kit to my Scirocco and can't really say anything against it other than that the instructions were a comedy translation. They do a 4 door central locking kit for �17.95, or a [url=http://www.rclick.co.uk/index.php?cPath=53 [/url]4 door remote central locking kit for �36.95 with a choice of keys, including some decent OEM copy's with key-blanks built into them so you don't end up with a giant bunch of keys. You can add a boot lock to it too with an extra servo. I'm probably going to get a kit for my Passat from there sooner or later. (edited to add the links) PS, that gearbox set-up looks similar to pre-9000 Saabs, might be another route to explore, but even best case scenario would involve a lot of fabrication to get the box to fit. (unless triumph borrowed the box from a saab in the first place, but that seems very unlikely, and I'd expect you to already have heard if they had.)[/quote] They do look very similar - I heard (maybe?) the saab 99/900 box was based on it - early 99's used transfer gears but later upgraded to chain drive for the turbos (stronger) |
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'98 e36 316i lux
'97 mx5 harvard
'87 Saab 900 T16s
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4000 is indeed not too bad for 70mph. My car sits at 4,666rpm ~70 (15mph per 1000rpm), and will return ~45mpg at that speed, although it is smaller, lighter, and with a more advanced engine design.
I'm tempted to suggest that setting the engine up properly will help economy significantly. IN ORDER (there's no point setting the mixture on an engine with incorrect timing/valve clearances/blowing exhaust/etc.):
Start by checking the valve clearances. Then the compression pressures - if these are low or imbalanced (due to engine wear) then you're never going to obtain decent economy. Check that the ignition system is in tip-top condition (good points+condenser or elec ign, good coil, cap, leads and plugs). Check that the exhaust system is leak-free (low back pressure murders fuel economy - same goes for a free-flowing sports exhaust), and that the air filter is clean. Set the ignition as far advanced as it will go without pinking, and then set the mixture correctly.
If you retain the strombergs, a set of Viton O-rings will help stop the mixture adjuster leaking (try the Imp Club Spares for these). Ensure that all the sealing faces are clean, smoth and free of damage. Check that the jet is centralised, the diaphragm is sealing properly, and that the float and float valves are in good nick. Then set the idle speed and mixture.
If not, the single Su suggested by Seth would be a good plan - although the metering needle would probably be incorrect.
BTW, the compression ratio of this engine is 8.5:1 - very low by modern standards, and one of the reasons for the fairly poor fuel economy. If you can increase that at all then it would be a worthwhile modification - although you'd have to set up the timing and fuelling all over again.
Taller tyres would be my first por of call for reducing the cruising rpm - quick, easy, cheap and reversible.
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More than once I have been driving along in top gear and tried to change up only to find I was already in top 
