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Aug 10, 2011 15:31:05 GMT
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I hate metal ready. I got more flash rust with that rubbish than I stared with as surface rust. I don't like any of the POR15 stuff. It's expensive, awful to use and not compatible with normal Paint which can react badly with it (unless you spend more on POR15 Tie Coat)
Everything I used from POR15 was curse word.
Wire brush all the rust out. Use decent red oxide and/or zinc primer and paint it straight away with a top coat
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,650
Club RR Member Number: 1
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HammeriteNathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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Aug 10, 2011 15:48:08 GMT
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^ Have to admit I'm with AK on this one, I've had nothing but bad luck with POR
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Aug 10, 2011 15:50:01 GMT
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por is good when you get it right , trouble is if you skip bits of the prep or slap it over any old rubbish then yes it peels off and is terrible , id only use it on blasted metal now
not the best choice for that job imo
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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i've found the large tins of "chassis black" AKA Truckcoat, which you can buy from any decent paint shops is really good. can be brushed or sprayed, is cheap and gives a good finish.
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its all in the prep really....any product however expensive put over rot wont last , well cleaned up stuff with some diy store paint on it will do better
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Aug 11, 2011 10:36:09 GMT
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I would suggest visiting the Bilt Hamber website. My route would be to grind as much as you can, cover existing rust with Deox Gel to neutralise the rust, then prime with Electrox, which is their Zinc Primer, and is kick  in my experience. |
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Aug 15, 2011 14:38:35 GMT
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Por15 already contains a rust converter and it's the dogs danglies. Just don't get it on your skin! It won't come off... spot on!! por-15 might seem expensive but it goes a long way and is by far the best thing i've tried. But be warned it's not brilliant on visible areas where other paints have to be put on top, like your arches. i'd be tempted to flap disc your arches back to the shiney stuff, if it's rotten through then cut out the rot and get new metal welded in, no point in papering over the cracks, so to speak, IMO I had dinitrol recomended to me but after trying some of their stuff i've found it to be rubbish. |
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2011 14:44:19 GMT by franko14
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Aug 15, 2011 18:31:30 GMT
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The main problem you can't spray over hammerite with conventional paints, plus hammerite itself has to be sprayed within 2 hours or so otherwise it reacts and pickles up, its ideal for suspensions and the underside....  |
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