camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 20, 2011 16:03:07 GMT
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jul 20, 2011 16:11:06 GMT
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It looks like a crossover to me. It's used to issolate the hight and low frequencies and send them to the specific speakers. You wire the feed from the stereo to the "IN+" and "IN-", then you'd wire "TW+" and "TW-" to the tweeter, and "WF+" and "WF-" to the woofer (in this case likely the normal door speaker).
I'm not 100% as to what the "0dB" and "-3dB" terminals are for though.
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camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 20, 2011 16:28:20 GMT
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I have no TW+ on it at all but one of tweeter that was connect to it goes to -3db This is the rest of the bits that came with it
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jul 20, 2011 16:37:45 GMT
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Ah, in that case I'd be guessing that 0dB and -3dB are the tweeters positive feed, but provide 2 different volume levels for it, so you can tune it to match your woofers. Not 100% on that, but it would certainly make sense.
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camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 20, 2011 16:40:32 GMT
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Thank you at lease now i'm one step near to wiring it up where abouts dose it connect to the amplifier or the radio
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Jul 20, 2011 19:35:57 GMT
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Robin is spot on.
It's a passive crossover for the tweeters (TW) and midrange (WF). The 0dB and -3dB will give two different volume ranges to match whatever midrange you use. -3dB will give a slightly quieter tweeter than the 0dB.
Once you've got your speakers installed, try both settings to see which one you prefer the sound of. If the tweeters are further away from you than the midrange you might want 0dB, if they are at a similar distance or closer than the midrange I would keep them as -3dB.
Good luck with the install.
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camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 20, 2011 19:50:08 GMT
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Thanks i think i need all the luck i can get never done anything like this before so here goes.
Do i wire it in to the radio?
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Jul 20, 2011 20:06:15 GMT
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yeah the 2 wires to the existing speaker go on the input side of it
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Some days you just need to take a grinder to an inanimate object, just to make your day a tiny bit better!!
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Jul 20, 2011 20:06:52 GMT
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Err....possibly, but you'll get the best sound if you wire it into an amp.
Post up a pic of the end of the amp showing all the terminals. I'm assuming you have one amplifier, not two?
Also, photograph ALL the speakers you've got to install....and the wiring at the back of the head unit (radio)
I can draw you up an install diagram showing where every wire needs to go.
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camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 20, 2011 20:53:18 GMT
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I will rip out the radio in the morning but it is a Sony cdx gt616u but i can tell you what wires are and there colour and what they do Blue/white = Amp Rem Light Blue = ATT Yellow = Continuous power Blue = Power aerial control Orange/White = switch illumination power supply Red = Power switch supply Black = Ground there is an audio out front and rear and a audio in This is the amp This are the speakers 2 of all of them And then the tweeter and the cross over also the 2 sub There all going in the camper van up front in the cab area
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Jul 20, 2011 21:16:21 GMT
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Post up a pic of the end of the amp showing all the terminals. You've taken a pic of the wrong end
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camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 20, 2011 21:45:57 GMT
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Sorry here is the other end
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that amp is a bass amp only. Its mono not stereo and only reproduces low frequencies. It is specifically for driving subwoofers. Its a great amp, but will not drive your full range speakers.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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As Mr Akku says, the amp is a monoblock amp which is used to drive bass speakers (your pair of subs)
Basically, you will have to lose one pair of speakers with the current set-up you've got. I would lose the Sony X-plod speakers and concentrate on the tweeters & Pioneer ones 'up front', the 6x9's behind and the subs for some good bass.
With only one amp, and with it being a monoblock (non-stereo), then this will drive the pair of JL subs which you will be best fitting into some kind of enclosure (a bass box) to get the best out of them. JL Audio is a good make, so you're off to a good start there.
For the other speakers you'd ideally want to alto run them off another amplifier, but for now you'll have to run them off the amplifier built into the head unit. This will give you the sound but won't be as good as running them off a seperate amp.
On the back of the head unit you'll have 8 speaker wires to run four four speakers. There will be a pair of wires for each speaker.
You need to establish which wire does what, there will be a front left pair of wires (FL) front right pair (FR) a rear left pair (RL) and a rear right pair (RR) with a + & - for each speaker.
Mount the 6x9's somewhere behind the front seats and run the RL & RR speaker wires to those. Then mount the tweeters and Pioneer speakers up front (either in the doors or the dashboard) then run the FL & FR wires to the IN+ and IN- terminals on the crossover units (one left and one right)
Once you've done that, you want to run WF+ & WF- from each crossover to the corresponding left & right Pioneer then the -3dB & TW- to the corresponding left & right tweeters.
It is important on each pair of speaker wires that you work out which one is + and which one is - and carefully make sure you wire each speaker in the system to the matching + & - wire otherwise it'll sound awful.
Using the shortened terms I've mentioned above, you should wire the four speakers from the head unit like this:
RL+ to the + on the left hand 6x9 RL- to the - on the left hand 6x9 RR+ to the + on the right hand 6x9 RR- to the - on the right hand 6x9
FL+ to the IN+ on the left crossover FL- to the IN- on the left crossover WF+ to the + on the left Pioneer WF- to the - on the left Pioneer -3dB to the + on the left tweeter TW- to the - on the left tweeter
FR+ to the IN+ on the right crossover FR- to the IN- on the right crossover WF+ to the + on the right Pioneer WF- to the - on the right Pioneer -3dB to the + on the right tweeter TW- to the - on the right tweeter
For the amp, you will need to fit an RCA (Phono) cable from the RCA output on the back of the head unit (if there are three RCA's then you want the one that isn't labelled front or rear...it might be called 'LOW' or 'BASS' or 'SUB' etc...) If there are only two RCA outputs you want to use the one labelled REAR
Run this to the CH1 (left) and CH2 (right) inputs on the amp then run one + and one - wire to each sub. You want to avoid running the RCA cable near any 12V cables where possible (ideally, run the RCA away from all other cables) to avoid interference.
Earth the amp really well as close to the amp as possible then run the +12v cable from the battery with a heavy cable and good fuse right next to the battery. There will also be a blue wire from the back of the head unit (should be labelled 'ACC') which you need to run from the head unit to the 'ACC' terminal on the amp. This switches the amp on/off when you turn the head unit on and off. DO NOT run this to a permanent +12v feed of you'll drain the battery very quickly.
That should get you started. Try to use reasonable quality speaker cable to improve the sound, especially where the speakers are a long way from the head unit.
If you get stuck, give me a shout and I'll see what I can do to help.
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EDIT:
Having read one of your posts above, if the wiring is correct as you have labelled it, you want to run the blue/white wire to the ACC of the amp and use the rear audio out RCA for the amp too because it sounds like you don't have a low output RCA from the head unit.
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camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 21, 2011 15:41:00 GMT
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Thanks a million this is going to help me alot i now don't feel so scared to wire it up now i will start making my bass box in a week or so and collect all the parts to wire it all up
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BiAS
Club Retro Rides Member
Insert witty comment here
Posts: 2,231
Club RR Member Number: 147
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What is thisBiAS
@cheeqi
Club Retro Rides Member 147
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Jul 21, 2011 16:59:26 GMT
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Also, before you start building your sub box have a look at these, JL Audios own tech section, and these for the correct box sizes by model number
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Last Edit: Jul 21, 2011 17:04:16 GMT by BiAS
(car+wheels)-rideheight=WIN
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camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 21, 2011 17:02:04 GMT
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Thanks this is the main reason i joined this forum so many people willing to help out
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mauricewalsh
Part of things
bmw316i ,transit, 2barkas b1000, reiger scirocco storm
Posts: 217
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Jul 22, 2011 11:48:43 GMT
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camper I'm not far from you n would love to see the finished van , I'm in killaloe, give me a shout !!!!!!!!
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be a survivor not a victim
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camper damper
Part of things
Another car bites the dust
Posts: 606
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Jul 31, 2011 20:29:21 GMT
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Ok i have started to collect all the stuff to start putting this in but i am a bit stuck on wires and sub box also some small things hope to start in a few weeks once i finish the dry lining my mums living room ain't done that before but I'll try ;D
1. What size wire do i need to connect the amp (JL Audio e1400D) up on the Live and Ground side and anything else needed.
2. What type of sub box will suit me a ported or non ported the music i mostly listen to is a mix range but mostly power balled kinda of music and a mixture of heavy metal and rock
3. How do i cut down the noise in my camper i know it will never be as quite as a mouse but anything that make the engine noise more bearably is all i want
4. What is the big 3 thing i keep hearing about upgrading the wires in the engine bay will it be any good to me i do have a leisure battery that is charged vie a split charge relay and alot of lights also i do have a mystery starting problem
5. Is there anything else i should do to the camper when I'm putting it in i must say i will be removing the dash and almost all of the cab area at the time cause i want to paint it to match the new body colour
Thank you
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